Clutch Master Cylinder Dirty

[ToolTime]

When I went to change my fluid I noticed I had significant amount of black swirled into the fluid and in the reservoir. I've also noticed that the gears are harder to shift between until you pump the pedal a couple of times. I changed the fluid, did a flush and bled the system but it hasn't 100% solved the shifting issues. Any guesses?

Maybe the seals in the master? Clutch line going bad? I've already done the damper delete.

[DrD123]

is it hard to shift because the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging, or is it just hard to put in gear?

[ToolTime]

I feel like it's a combination of both. The car already had a little hesitation getting into first but it was nothing a little wiggle couldn't solve. I had the trans oil replaced last year with Motul, and the rear diff. But recently I've noticed it felt as though the clutch was not totally disengaging, I'd feel a little resistance pushing it out of first. Rowing through the rest of the gears felt normal.

It would only be hard if the car was sitting for more than a day.

[ToolTime]

Welp I've already decided I want to replace the clutch.

I'm just going to replace the Master, slave, SS clutch line, clutch fork, bearings ect and put in a Xcluch Stage 1 Organic with their Chromoly flywheel to match. I'm tired of dealing with this and it's got 115k miles, I want it to be good forever.

[Infosecdad]

If you want "forever" look at the Verus forged clutch fork and matching pivot ball.

https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0163a-forged-clutch-fork-wrx-1108

[creep_nu]

might as well change out the shifter bushings while you're doing all that work

Edited March 29, 2023 by creep_nu

[GTEASER]

Make sure you do the clutch damper delete if you haven't done it already.

[ToolTime]

On 3/24/2023 at 1:28 PM, Infosecdad said:

If you want "forever" look at the Verus forged clutch fork and matching pivot ball.

https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0163a-forged-clutch-fork-wrx-1108

I did strongly consider it but I ended up with a new OEM one, I'm already in deep with the other parts and I don't know if the car is going beyond stage 2. Hopefully that'll be good for now. It's still in the back of my mind.

 

12 hours ago, creep_nu said:

might as well change out the shifter bushings while you're doing all that work

You're right! Do you know which are good? Perrin? Long lasting?
2015+ WRX are the ones we want right?

7 hours ago, GTEASER said:

Make sure you do the clutch damper delete if you haven't done it already.

Already done

 

So far the parts in hand list is:

- Goodridge 24222-CLU SS clutch line
- Rocky Japan Slave Cylinder 37200020111 (oem man. & matches part 30620AA192 for half price)
- Master Cylinder 37230AJ030
- Xclutch FSU103C
- Xclutch XKSU23015-1A
- Pressure Plate Bolts 800508310 (x6)
- Flywheel Bolts 800610740 (x8)
- Clutch Fork 30531AA180, springs 30534AA001, 30539AA000 (x2)
- Pivot Ball 30537AA061
-Ate Type 200 1L DOT 4

I think that's everything!
Coincidentally I'm doing the valve cover gasket/spark plug tube seals, and a nice and shiny Megan Racing 28MM Front Sway Bar (MRS-SU-0395). It's blue so you know it's good. I've already put the STI rear one with Kartboy front and rear endlinks. I was having trouble fitting the front links on but it turns out my swaybar is bent (???). Hence the Megan.

I hope the car feels nice and solid after this money bath 
 

 

[Falcor]

Are you doing the work yourself or having it done at a shop?

[ToolTime]

13 hours ago, Falcor said:

Are you doing the work yourself or having it done at a shop?

Yeah I'm having it done by a my local mechanic, the streets of Philly aren't exactly easy to work in lol. I don't have many car friends around here or know anyone with a lift. But I do have a jack and ramps/access to a flat space at work but I can't do long projects there.

 

Some day I'll have a garage space and buy a lift but that's just a dream for now.

[Falcor]

I'm pretty sure I'm giving in and doing the same. As much as I want to do it myself, I really do not have the time. Just hate other people messing with my car. 

Doubt the city would like you working under your car on the street.  

 

[motorbreath]

I just completely drained the system to do the clutch damper delete. I also has some black residue at the bottom of my clutch fluid reservoir. I cleaned it out and used a combination of a vacuum bleeder and my wife pumping the clutch pedal.

This was my first time bleeding the clutch hydraulics on any car, but I found it extremely difficult. First I tried a method I was told would work, have someone depress the clutch pedal and while is is depressed bleed from the slave cylinder bleeder until no air bubbles are observed. This didn't work for me.

What seemed to work was leaving the system at rest, no depression of the clutch pedal, and just letting the vacuum bleeder do its thing for 2-3 reservoir volumes of hydraulic fluid. I am not sure if the system is perfectly bled, but I have over 200 miles driven this week and everything seems fine except for the usual issues shifting into 1st and 2nd when the car is cold.

One thing that seems to help, apart from finally getting rid of the clutch damper, is to row through the gears once before taking off, getting into first is slightly easier if I do that. Like was said above, replacing the shifter bushings also makes a big difference, in my experience.

[ToolTime]

On 4/4/2023 at 4:15 PM, Falcor said:

I'm pretty sure I'm giving in and doing the same. As much as I want to do it myself, I really do not have the time. Just hate other people messing with my car. 

Doubt the city would like you working under your car on the street.  

 

I feel the same, it's anxiety inducing especially when you don't have someone you 100% trust. This is my second time going to this shop and they really know their stuff and seem to care/put extra effort in.  Jury is still out though

The city doesn't care, I often do my oil changes/fluid changes and suspension parts. It just can't take more than a day and you need to watch your tools (some people are nuts, most are nice). Maybe try not to make a lot of noise and clean up after yourself, and nobody seems to mind. What's annoying are people asking what I'm up to/feeling compelled to tell me about their cars.

@motorbreath  When I changed mine I used a bottle that had a one way valve on it instead of a vacuum bleeder. But using this method you can do it alone. Just crack the line open, then go pump your pedal 3/4 the way down several times. Check the reservoir every so many, refill as necessary.
I have the exact same issues going into first and second. I put Motul in but maybe I should do a flush and do it again or try a new fluid. But we'll see how it feels with the new parts. I'm still waiting for them to finish the repairs.

[motorbreath]

I never thought of using a one-way valve, but that is a good idea. What confused me was that if I tried to follow the procedure in the service manual, air kept getting in the slave cylinder. Using the vacuum bleeder without the pedal depressed seemed to be the only thing that worked.

I am not sure what I did wrong, but I am pretty confident that I bled the system with the vacuum bleeder, very good clutch pedal feel and I can even double clutch now which also helps shifting into first while in motion. I sometimes have to do this in traffic because second gear is pretty high for crawling along (or I'm doing something wrong!).

[Plastixx]

I fully compress the slave cylinder with a clamp when I bleed it so air can't get trapped in the cylinder cavity. I also elevate it with the nipple at the highest point. I have a pressure bleeder kit. Far better results than vacuum bleeding and it constantly tops off the reservoir as it bleeds.

[motorbreath]

That makes alot of sense, I'll definitely try removing the salve cylinder and clamping it the next time I bleed it. Regarding a pressure bleeder, I am a bit nervous about them since if you do something wrong you can dump hydraulic fluid everywhere.