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Best quality belts?


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So, my Drive Belt and accessory belts are due for a change. Wondering which I should go with? I might have used Continental the last time, and I guess it was ok. Is Gates any good anymore? Or OEM Subaru? Or are there aftermarket belts that can handle a stage 2 setup?

I guess I'm asking because I don't know much about belts. Should I replace any pulleys or parts along with it? Or what tooth design or any of that? So, a little knowledge or advice would be much appreciated. I believe I'm hitting the 60k mark, so I feel it should be done. Thanks!

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I think as long as you’re buying decent quality, it’s more time and heat that kills belts than anything else.

That is to say, I’ve never seen a seen a well manufactured belt that was properly tensioned just randomly delaminate and explode when it wasnt already ancient, brittle and cracking…. So probably any of the above brands are fine. (I have Conti belts on a stage ~2.5? engine, no problems at all.)

I think I’ve seen some colour matched, kevlar-infused stuff, with ribs that are cut like teethe etc… but I don’t know where you’e get them, and I suspect are 3x times the price of a normal one. Probably better to do regular changes 3 times that trust a fancy belt for 100k…. 😄

Edited by KZJonny
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Nope. The actual company is Mitsuboshi. They make the OEM PS and Alt belt.  You might be able to find them without the dealership. 

The best accessory belt is the one you replace routinely.  30k miles or sooner if the elements demand it.  Dont overtighten them, it just damages bearings. 

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I think I've got it! Subaru V-Belt Part # 809218460 and Accessory Drive Belt Part # 809214500.

Would I need a special tool to make changing these belts easier? I see Gates has some special belts they push with an installation tool. Is any of that needed? Or just wrestle it on? I seem to remember it being a pain the last time I installed it.

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FWIW, I have had great luck with Dayco drive belts from the local auto parts store. Even the first timing kit was a Dayco back in 2008.

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Should be nothing wrong with Dayco, per say.  I just cant recommend them from a professional stand point.  But as I said previously, the best belt is the one you change on a regular maintenance interval (30k miles or sooner depending on the elements).

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HKS belts.  ROFL!!!!  Guaranteed HKS does not make the belts, they just have their name painted on them.  Use the Gates Kevlar belts (blue) that way you can leave the blue coloring all over your pulleys.  Are HKS belts pink?  Do they leave pink coloring all over your pulleys?  Can you tell I love to break balls when it comes to JDM? 

JDM is not inherently better, its different.  Different in a way that makes it not so good for USDM in many cases.  Roads are better than US race tracks so suspension is too firm and valving is off for US use.  Wheels dont need to be engineered for the same expected impacts.  Cars in Japan live no more than 50k miles in most cases, so reliability is not nearly as important.  The fuel available in Japan, the safety requirements in Japan (no US DOT), the emission requirements in Japan....  The list goes on.  Engineered for Japan, not the US and the two countries laws and driving conditions are vastly different. 

Edited by m sprank
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2 hours ago, m sprank said:

Should be nothing wrong with Dayco, per say.  I just cant recommend them from a professional stand point.  But as I said previously, the best belt is the one you change on a regular maintenance interval (30k miles or sooner depending on the elements).

30K per belt? My accessory belts on my car were in decent shape at around 10 years and 100K old on my car when the engine was replaced at 214K. Maybe if you live in a more extreme climate but that would be a tremendous waste of rubber here in the PNW.

 

Oh, and to actually contribute to the topic: my belts are all Subaru OEM, if that helps. 

Edited by Pleides
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I highly doubt they were in "decent shape" and I call BS.  Maybe you dont understand what a decent belt looks like.  I am a union trained HVAC Journeyman technician (UA Local 230 Plumbers, Pipe Fitters, Steam Fitters).  I also I owned and operated a professional Subaru shop in the San Diego area of Southern California for 10 years.  Accessory belts every 30k miles.  In the desert regions where humidity is normally below 10% sooner.   I can not count the number of snapped, de-laminating belts I have dealt with.  If you are in the PNW and not changing your accessory belts every 30K you are playing with fire.  You are a VERY LUCKY individual.  Bragging about not performing basic maintenance per the manufactures recommended intervals is not good form as you lead uniformed individuals down a path of destruction. 

 

Change your belts.  It is cheap insurance as your engine will cost north of $6k to replace. 

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I have to agree that over 30K miles in a belt is probably too much, and 10 years definitely is.

The texture and strength additive package in them is just not designed to last that long. It’ll flash out over time. So they may even look good, but at a molecular level, they’re not the same they once were, regardless of where you live. Under hood temps and heat cycling do nasty things.

Would you buy 10 year old unused tires and drive aggressively on them? I assume not.

On the other hand, we’re talking about accessory belts. As long as you are using a quality timing belt, and changing that at regular intervals, I don’t think you’ll have that much to worry about. Accessory belts don’t drive the water or oil pump on our cars.

So, while I don’t think the $6K for a new engine is relevant to the discussion, losing your power steering sucks, and running out of power caue you didn’t realize you aren’t charging your battery would also suck. If the belt slapped around and damaged other stuff, that could certainly get spendy. (Now I think of it, I can imagine ways it would be possible, if very unlikely to take out your engine, but still….)

Now if you live in the world of older school small blocks and the like, different story….

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Ummm.  Let me look for pix.  I have built at least FOUR  EJ255/257's due to the a/c belt snapping, breaking through the plastic timing cover, getting wrapped up on the crank gear (basically insulating it) causing the timing belt to slip over the a/c belt (smooth  gear now that the a/c belt is "insulating the ribs").  Catastrophic engine failure as the crank is free spinning, with no cam operation.

 

Yes, losing an accessory belt on an EJ is asking to buy a complete long block.  I speak from experience, not my arse. 

Edited by m sprank
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Geez, now I’m getting nervous. I honestly thought 60k was the interval. From what I read, I could have sworn that’s what a number of people said. Well, I’ve got the Subaru belts ordered. I’ll replace them as soon as I can, and grandpa drive it until then.

Edited by Jolbaru_LGT
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I’ll have to just do it as soon as I get the belts. Well, the Subaru ones look different than the Conti. The subie have smooth ridges and the Contis currently on my car are toothy. But they seem to be in decent shape. Seriously, they only have to last a few more days. 

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36 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Ummm.  Let me look for pix.  I have built at least FOUR  EJ255/257's due to the a/c belt snapping, breaking through the plastic timing cover, getting wrapped up on the crank gear (basically insulating it) causing the timing belt to slip over the a/c belt (smooth  gear now that the a/c belt is "insulating the ribs").  Catastrophic engine failure as the crank is free spinning, with no cam operation.

 

Yes, losing an accessory belt on an EJ is asking to buy a complete long block.  I speak from experience, not my arse. 

I yield to experience here. Really wouldn’t have thought that was a likely outcome, but there you have it. If It can happen, It will eventually happen.

All that said, I keep mine fresh too. Cheap insurance.

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