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My ‘05 OBXT journal


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3 hours ago, KZJonny said:

That touchscreen tho… this is why I’ll never have a newish car now. Or not until they stop being build with a monitor in the dash….

I have heard they’re fun to drive tho. Good to heat confirmation of that.

Yup.. I'm not too fond of the big Tesla iPad either.. and this one being the Premium model, the actual size of the screen is a bit smaller.

All HVAC controllers are digital, no bueno. I much rather have the click click analog knobs.

The touch screen is used in other cars to service the rear brakes, which navigating the menus, letting you to release the rear electronic parking piston adjacent to the caliper. However Subaru didn't allow this, forcing you to take it back to the dealer for service. I hear people found a way around it using a code reader.

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4 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

6000 rpm redline? huh.

I read it has increased displacement and a broader torque curve (2,000 - 5,200 rpm).. it accelerates very nicely.

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Posted (edited)

Really hoping Subaru brings this to the states. I think the spokesperson said something like 899,900 Mexican pesos which is something like $53,195.. that can’t be..

Seems like Subaru just brought the Levorg with STi options to Mexico but with the 2.4L power-plant of the American WRX. Nice! 
They’re saying it will be released this weekend..

Edited by RumblyXT
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I’m not sure if those numbers are wrong.. but even for the U.S., that is way too much $$ for a WRX wagon.

The current WRX base msrp starts at around $32,735.

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well. depends how much tax is added on top of the price of the car. When I lived in Norway (14 years ago), they were taxing you a lot per HP and a bunch of other nonsense variables related to your engine size, car weight, etc... An OBXT over there would have ended up costing, wait for it, 115000$ at that time! Yes, you read that right.

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On 5/9/2024 at 9:03 AM, xt2005bonbon said:

well. depends how much tax is added on top of the price of the car. When I lived in Norway (14 years ago), they were taxing you a lot per HP and a bunch of other nonsense variables related to your engine size, car weight, etc... An OBXT over there would have ended up costing, wait for it, 115000$ at that time! Yes, you read that right.

Wow.. that's nutz..

Look like the manual WRX Sport wagon in Mexico will cost around $48,000, still pretty steep for the U.S., but dang, Subaru better bring that car to the U.S. market next year.

https://www.motor1.com/news/718624/subaru-wrx-sportwagon-mexico/

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Posted (edited)

The car looks phenomenal with the right wheels and this color is dope!

I really like the swede Recaro bucket seats. The tS trim probably also brings the STi steering wheel and short shifter.

Here’s a petition to bring it to the U.S. 😄

https://chng.it/pyMBzWmTsn

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Edited by RumblyXT
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Idk wtf they’d bring that to Mexico…but yeah. That’s SOA for you. Apparently everyone in the US wants a SUV or truck, unfortunately we’re the small minority who still likes wagons. 🙄
That’s a nice hatch/wagon…with STi trim 🤌

Edited by SoobyDoobyDoo
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So, I finally gathered up the courage to start working on replacing all the main A/C components.. Removing the top nut of the blower was a bitch, I almost became a contortionist trying to remove the top screw of the upper actuator, it was very difficult to get to also. And finally the evaporator cover 🤦🏻‍♂️ Subaru made the access to the front bolts almost unreachable.. but I got everything out. I had to remove part of the foam and move the wire harness out of the way to be able to get to some bolts. Had to stop though, it was 34C outside, which really felt like almost 40C. One of the expansion valve bolts was stripped and two of the condenser bolts broke off (all were rusted). All good though since it will be getting all new components/hardware.. took plenty of pics to remember where everything goes..

Felt like good progress for today..

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Edited by RumblyXT
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55 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

wait. I thought you gave or sold the car to someone. How come you're doing the work?

Yes, I sold the car to my brother in law, but I promised him I’d fix the A/C for him. During the cooler months it was ok, but with summer here, it’s almost unbearable driving a car without A/C in Miami.. 

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Does anybody know the p/n for the HVAC expansion valve bolts or maybe its size (it retain the EV from the engine side onto the pipes which go to the evaporator). I have looked on a few sites but can't find the number..

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Also, if anyone could recommend where to get the Blower Case Seal sponge gasket. It's old, dried and brittle.. but the Subaru p/n has been discontinued. Maybe an alternate one/something similar  could work. It's just a long piece of foam with tape on the bottom really, just don't know where to order something like this.

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Edited by RumblyXT
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26 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

Expanding foam weather seal tape is your friend when sealing up hvac boxes. Grab it at Lowe’s.

I was wondering if the home improvement stores had that. Awesome, thank you!

Now I just gotta find those EV bolts.. I’ll check there as well. If not I think Bolt Depot might have them, I just have to take its measurements to make sure I order the correct size. It’s gotta be precise or the EV won’t seal correctly and freon may leak.

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1 hour ago, RumblyXT said:

Oh hey, I almost forgot. Do new Condensers come with a new secant pack in the side tube or I have to order a new one?

Mine came with dessicant, and charged with Nitrogen. I imagine that is standard for most new condensors.

Just move fast once you crack the seal on the old system and start installing the new parts ideally. Pullin vacuum will remove water of course, but it doesn't hurt to let the least amount of moisture into the new, dry parts.

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9 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

I just have to take its measurements to make sure I order the correct size.

You're right, but if the bolt is a tiny bit shorter, it will be fine as well. As long as the thread engage, and it doesn't bottom out in the hole and prevent a tight fit... If you go wrong and it does bottom out, then performance shims (aka washers) are your friend.

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1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Mine came with dessicant, and charged with Nitrogen. I imagine that is standard for most new condensors.

Just move fast once you crack the seal on the old system and start installing the new parts ideally. Pullin vacuum will remove water of course, but it doesn't hurt to let the least amount of moisture into the new, dry parts.

Ok, I have to check, but I think the desiccant pipe nut is marked as torqued, so that probably means it's already got a pack in there.

I'm also going to flush all the lines/pipes with the solvent and shop air to make sure any dirt particles from the old compressor that might be lingering are rid of.

55 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

You're right, but if the bolt is a tiny bit shorter, it will be fine as well. As long as the thread engage, and it doesn't bottom out in the hole and prevent a tight fit... If you go wrong and it does bottom out, then performance shims (aka washers) are your friend.

One of the EV T25 socket bolt got stripped when I was trying to remove it (it's seized from rust in the threads.. I have to figure a way to get it out, left it soaking in penetrant overnight. By the looks of it, I don't think it's ever been removed in 220K miles, pretty amazing/reliable for an almost 20 year old A/C system. 

It's very similar to this one, look like NAPA may have them.
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Edited by RumblyXT
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Good luck getting it out. I've found that steel bolts left for a long time in aluminium get pretty bad. But, FreeAll as been good to me over the years. (ATF/Acetone has also been awesome)

 

How much is that particular bolt? I ask only because if it is more than a couple dollars, you could always just opt for a mixer pack of SS hex cap screws off Amazon for not a lot more, then you have spares for all sorts of things.

SS is far less reactive than zinc as well, so less likely to corrode again in future. I also eat and drink anti-sieze, so that helps as well.

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By the way, if you guys ever have to do this job, be advised that even though the Subaru FSM states to remove the plastic cover that's around the evaporator pipes first, then the evaporator pipes, there's just absolutely no way this can be done, as the sturdy plastic cover which surrounds the pipes attaches to another plasctic housing which surrounds the EV with three screws which are facing the firewall. You first would have to remove the Expansion Valve, then loosen the pipes from the Evaporator, then the pipes along with the the whole plastic cover come out, and then you can finally remove the plastic cover around the EV once off the car.

I was braking my head on how to do this till I finally gave up and puled the whole thing, later realizing those three plastic cover screws were impossible to remove because they're facing the fire wall as shown by the red arrows.
 

 

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Edited by RumblyXT
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