My ‘05 OBXT journal

[outbacksoutback]

I have similar issues with my 05 OBXT running badly when I use the AC. I am tuned on an access port and was seeing DAM drops down to .12 when using AC. Stop using AC for a year and my DAM stays at 1. My theory is somehow the car was detecting a false knock from the AC system operating. I have not figured it out yet though. I do have a lightweight crank pulley/smfw on the car. 

[RumblyXT]

6 hours ago, blackobxt said:

I’m liking what I’m seeing here, but you’re going to need one more can of 134a. Are those oem o-rings and schrader valves? If so what did that run you? I’ve always just used the o-ring kits.

Yes, I will need another can of R134a. The O-Rings & Schrader valves were around $35 altogether, I had to pay another $15 in shipping though; a bit much for such little parts. But Subaru Parts Deal OEM parts are greatly discounted so..

I’m not replacing the Expansion Valve. From the research I’ve done, nothing seems to be wrong with it. Just hoping I don’t see any dirty oil residue (a/c technicians call it black death) when I remove it.

[RumblyXT]

Hmm.. this might be good. Reading the FSM section for the evaporator, notice it doesn’t mention anywhere the ‘Instrument Panel’ needs to be removed! And that’s awesome.. while it will still be time consuming to get to the evaporator, since the blower motor has to be come out first to get to it, and a couple of actuators, it won’t be the hassle of having to remove the whole dash. It appears the evaporator comes out sideways towards the passenger door.

I’m not sure yet if I may go as far as removing the evaporator (depending of how the EV looks), but it looks like it’s not as difficult as I thought.

[RumblyXT]

16 hours ago, outbacksoutback said:

I have similar issues with my 05 OBXT running badly when I use the AC. I am tuned on an access port and was seeing DAM drops down to .12 when using AC. Stop using AC for a year and my DAM stays at 1. My theory is somehow the car was detecting a false knock from the AC system operating. I have not figured it out yet though. I do have a lightweight crank pulley/smfw on the car. 

Good luck with your project, hope you can fix it. If you’re going to do this yourself, I REALLY recommend at least briefly learning on the many components of the a/c system first and the many possible symptoms they each can present. I don’t claim to be an expert by any means, but in the a/c system, it’s quite a few things that work in relation to each other. It’s a universe of its own. Thankfully, there are plenty of really good videos on YouTube about it.

One more reason why I’m trying to keep my car stock as much as I can so as not to affect any other components.

Edited October 14, 2023 by RumblyXT

[blackobxt]

Man you’re considering pulling the evaporator but you won’t replace a $13 expansion valve? You shouldn’t have to remove the evap but you will need to remove the expansion valve to properly clean it with solvent 

[RumblyXT]

A new OEM Expansion Valve is at least $160, I'm definitely not getting a Chinese knock off unit for this. From what I've learned, the EV is not acting up at all, not getting stuck open or closed, seems to function just fine. In fact, I still get cold a/c in the car when I turn it on. The only reason why I'm going to this extent of cleaning all the lines in the system, etc. is because the compressor seems to be faulty, could just be the pulley bearing that is bad and it's making a lot of cyclical squealing noise with the accessory belt. But at 212K miles, it may be time to replace it and since I have an almost new compressor that came with the 20x motor, I'm changing it for that one.

As I said, I may not go to the extent of pulling the Evaporator, unless when I remove the Expansion Valve, I notice the oil is dirty and dark. I was just thinking that pulling the evaporator, may allow me to clean/flush it much better and was glad I did not have to remove the whole dash. We'll see.

I may have forgotten to order the two O-Rings between the EV and Evaporator lines.

Edited October 14, 2023 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,outback,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430735,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+expansion+valve,6788
 

Genuine Denso… just no Subaru packaging.

~$20 USD?
 

Not saying you need to replace it but there are some things that get massive markups ‘because OE part’.

[blackobxt]

Same exact denso that Subaru is selling you on rock auto for $19.52. Subaru doesn’t manufacture the expansion valve, denso does.

[blackobxt]

1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,outback,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430735,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+expansion+valve,6788
 

Genuine Denso… just no Subaru packaging.

~$20 USD?
 

Not saying you need to replace it but there are some things that get massive markups ‘because OE part’.

Beat me to it lol

[RumblyXT]

Oh wow.. now that's a lot better! Sorry blackobxt, I didn't know it was this cheap and it was still a Denso. Dang, Subaru is marking up the heck out of that EV then. I'm guessing it doesn't come with the black insulator sticky rubber, right?

Wow, Rockauto prices are really awesome. I could have saved some money on some of those components/lubricants. Next time.

Edited October 14, 2023 by RumblyXT

[blackobxt]

No you can just pull it off the one that’s in the car. Subaru manufactures the car and the drivetrain but the sensors and computers and everything else are manufactured by other companies like denso, delco etc. even Mitsubishi, I can almost guarantee there is a Mitsubishi logo somewhere on your car and yes Subaru will mark up the hell out of it to sell it to you in a box or bag with a Subaru logo on it.

Edited October 14, 2023 by blackobxt

[RumblyXT]

Wow, a whole kit of a/c O-rings for just $7.45. Not bad at all. Next time.

I'm wondering where I could get the black rubber insulator that goes around the Expansion Valve, that thing is probably dry by now.

Edit: I can probably find a piece locally at an a/c hardware store. Looks like it's called Fire Retardant Ruber Insulation Tape.

Edited October 14, 2023 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

40 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

Wow, Rockauto prices are really awesome. I could have saved some money on some of those components/lubricants. Next time.

Yeah man. It’s a great first place to look for most parts. Bookmark that shit.

They sometimes even have OE Subaru for great prices. I got all my lower rad support parts through RA, and they came in Subaru bags, for a lot less than dealer price.

[RumblyXT]

Already added to favorites.

[RumblyXT]

Dang, this is really tempting.. for just $85 more I get a new evaporator and expansion valve..  and it even comes with new O-Rings..

Edited October 14, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Oh what the heck.. I ended up ordering a new Evaporator, a Denso Exp. Valve and an O-Rings kit, just in case..

At 212K miles, I figured it was due for all these, might as well leave everything in top shape. The only component missing now would be the heater core, but that’s a whole other story..

60 degrees in Miami this morning! Wohoo lol

[RumblyXT]

On another note:

I’m very happy with how this newer motor has turned out.. all that research and hard work deleting the ex. AVCS really paid off. The engine is averaging a much better gas mileage from the poor 13.4-13.5mpg it used to get. 
And 1,268 miles later, there are no leaks, cel lights or weird engine noises whatsoever, runs like a top. Father in law drives it mostly, he says it’s very responsive. His driving habit is probably the reason why it’s getting this better mileage too haha.

Edited October 17, 2023 by RumblyXT

[xt2005bonbon]

So, what is the latest update regarding tuning?

[RumblyXT]

24 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

So, what is the latest update regarding tuning?

Same, haven’t gotten around it yet. I have to double check to make sure there’s still not a vacuum leak.

[xt2005bonbon]

Pull another LV and post. Wondering if your long term fuel trims are still off.

[blackobxt]

Be careful, I’ve seen many including myself who ended up stuck at the “just needs tuned” stage for years. 

[RumblyXT]

Definitely taking it carefully.. we’ve been driving the car like driving Ms. Daisy, everyone knows not to push it above 2K rpm.

Wife’s laptop needs a new battery too. I need to order that as well. Not complaining but it’s always something. Last thing I want is to be flashing the ECU and that thing turns off.

 

[RumblyXT]

7 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Pull another LV and post. Wondering if your long term fuel trims are still off.

I rechecked for vacuum leaks again earlier today, it seemed fine, didn’t see smoke anywhere around the turbo inlet or anywhere else for the matter. Yeah other than the one coming off the cigar lol Next time I'll use a longer red hose so the smoke is not right on top of the area being checked.

Edited October 17, 2023 by RumblyXT

[subisubisu]

First, thanks for demoing that smoke rig!  Since seeing your post, I have used it successfully to locate a couple of leaks.

Second, I did a couple of other things that you might also consider.  One was to use that same smoke rig, but to inject the smoke at the BPV vacuum connection, after the intercooler.  I think it's a big ask to pump smoke past the intercooler from the location in your picture.  By doing that, I located another non-obviously loose connection to tighten.

The other was to spray something combustible at the joining interfaces all along the intake path while the car was idling, listening for changes to the rpm.  If you hear a change, there's a vacuum leak where the spray is going.  Of course combustible vapor and a running engine are ingredients in fire risk, so I am not advising anyone to do any such thing.  Kids, don't try this at home!  Grownups, get someone to hold your beer.

[xt2005bonbon]

Good on you for checking for vacuum leaks again. Might want to try what subisubisu is suggesting. And post an LV when you can .