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My ‘05 OBXT journal


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Glad you liked that rig subisubisu, real cheap, yet very effective vacuum leak tester. I picked that idea off YouTube.

Just to be clear.. BVP as in Bypass Valve correct? I'm guessing you mean connecting the smoke tester here.. I'll check there tomorrow as well.

 

BPV inlet.jpg

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1 minute ago, RumblyXT said:

Just to be clear.. BVP as in Bypass Valve correct? I'm guessing you mean connecting the smoke tester here.. I'll check there tomorrow as well.

 

 

Yes sir, that's what I meant.  Same location where people move the fuel pressure regulator reference to try to relieve the "stumble".

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Good area to check leak on a whole bunch of components: I/C, bypass hose, whole I/M, TGV gaskets.. whereas before I was just checking the Turbo inlet hose.

Wait I/M too? Wouldn't the Throttle need to be opened? I think the blade stays open a bit, just enough to get smoke through it. We'll see..

Edited by RumblyXT
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I injected smoke through the BPV and didn’t notice any of it leaking anywhere else.. I did however encountered much more resistance when pumping, so I went in much slower so as not to damage anything by the pressure.

Anyways.. here’s a most recent LV table.

95042C67-2796-4165-8B38-7748E2E1FFD0.jpeg

Edited by RumblyXT
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Yeah man, this what xt2005bonbon was saying before..

I don’t know if the fact I retarded timing by ~7 degrees on each exhaust Cam Sprocket, and this engine being kind of a hybrid, might be influencing on how timing is looking..

Not sure if you remember this motor was dual AVCS and I swapped the ex. Cam sprockets for the ej255 ones.

Weird, the engine feels perfect. But again, it may be very minute timing corrections, I may not feel anything while driving. 

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This car had a stage 2 mods and more than likely a tune for all the aftermarket parts it came with: Invidia DP, AEM CAI, Grimspeed boost controller..

The tune it has now is the same one it had back when the ej255 was installed on the car.

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Yeah, so again, assuming o2 and MAF sensors are good, and no vacuum leak, I would do the following:

-rescale the MAF table so as to bring back the long term fuel trims close to 0%.

-you could remove like 6 degrees of timing throughout the whole base timing table

-you could also zero out the wastegate duty cycle tables so that it would just run 'spring pressure' (~5-6 psi I think). IOW, 'safe' boost levels while you address the timing and the fueling.

I would go from there.

Again, that's what I would do. But I am not a professional tuner. :spin:

 

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If I’m reading that right, the ECU is adding fuel in the “A, B, and C” ranges. Granted, I’m still a nub when it comes to tuning/troubleshooting, so someone more experienced should chime in (battling with my own car), but if you went to a smaller displacement engine while leaving the tune alone, shouldn’t those be trending negative?

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33 minutes ago, killjoy323232 said:

If I’m reading that right, the ECU is adding fuel in the “A, B, and C” ranges. Granted, I’m still a nub when it comes to tuning/troubleshooting, so someone more experienced should chime in (battling with my own car), but if you went to a smaller displacement engine while leaving the tune alone, shouldn’t those be trending negative?

Yes. Positive trims means that the ECU is adding fuel in these particular trims. In his case, my guess is the use of the aftermarket (and subsequently modified) cold air intake. The MAF needs to be rescaled for it, again assuming everything else is fine (MAF, O2 sensors, and no vacuum leaks).

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O2 sensor is now after the turbo (jdm version), not on the up pipe (domestic motors).

Not sure if this might be throwing things off a bit. Tuner mentioned something about this that it may present an issue having the O2 sensor post turbo.

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Do  you guys know if ‘05 LGT front axles fit an ‘05 OBXT??

I was replacing the front axles today, and I’m not sure if I bought the wrong replacement axles. I had purchased OEM ‘05 LGTs but was concerned when I installed the Right front one, the axle nut would not thread onto the axle.. not realizing later on after re-installing the aftermarket one, I had to pull it a bit towards me for the axle nut to thread on it.

Side by side they seemed like the same length as the ones previously installed on my car (aftermarket).. 

Can you guys confirm? I’d much rather have OEM axles than these aftermarkets I have now..

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Not sure if I bought the wrong axles..

97287AC8-C953-4333-B8CE-1FEF7DD04EE2.jpeg

Edited by RumblyXT
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Yeah, I thought I had originally purchased the correct axle p/n.

It’s confusing though since there have been several supersessions (A, B & C) and when clicking on the new part # 28321AGOOD, Subaru parts states it doesn’t fit neither the LGT not the OBXT.. weird..

I will try installing it again on the Left side. Thanks! 

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Edited by RumblyXT
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Very nice car, lots of tech and features for a Premium trim. Could definitely use a bit more power, but overall it’s great! Feels awesome to drive and smell a new car again lol it’s actually my first ever new Subie and I’m really liking it so far.

Not really sure why Subaru doesn’t incorporate the OBXT motor in it, this thing would sell like hot cakes imo. Imagine if it was a manual too!

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  • 2 weeks later...


Thank you, yes I had seen a couple of these videos.

I know it’s been a while, I’ve been really busy with work lately. I sold the Outback to my brother in law, he needed a car to get around in the city. I’ll still be helping him with everything related to it and posting it here. The 4Runner is gone too. I’ll miss it, but honestly the Forester has been quite nice. It had been a while since I had a brand new car.

As much as I enjoy it though, it’s nice to take a brake from all the wrenching, sweating and grease.. at least for a while, but I will never abandon the Outback. Brother in law lives close, so the car will still be around.

41E7A2C4-5C48-4417-8EF3-3E3EAF6FB967.jpeg

Edited by RumblyXT
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  • 1 month later...

I did a Right caliper replacement today. The lower slide was seized, pads were wearing out uneven. Based on the FSM the brake line that attaches to the caliper which holds the small banjo bolt requires two washers, but it kept sipping break fluid, using just one washer seemed to have stopped the leak.

My assumption is the caliper they sent me might not be totally smooth at the washer-caliper contact point.

F70484A6-555C-462C-8F58-11C21D90D74C.jpeg

Edited by RumblyXT
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