Pulling Engine from 5EAT, Should I remove flexplate first?

[MyMomsOutbackXT]

First off just wanna say, these forums have been amazingly helpful with planning out my engine pull and rebuild. Thanks to all the subie vets who've helped and answered my questions.

 

This is a question I'm sure many have faced before, but I want to get some opinions of the pro engine pullers.

 

I'm removing the engine from my 2007 OBXT equipped with a 5EAT (unfortunately), and when doing research I found numerous threads mentioning how much of a hassle it is to remove the flex plate bolts, which allows the torque converter to remain in the transmission when the engine is pulled.

 

If I don't disconnect the FP, the TC will come out with the engine, where it is much easier to disconnect, but at this point I'd have to deal with all the tranny fluid that will innevitably spill all over my garage, but more importantly, I have to deal with re-seating the TC in my transmission, which I've heard is also a grueling task before I can reinsert the engine.

 

My question is, which is the smarter route to go? Do I remove the flexplate bolts before I remove the engine? Or remove them after, and deal with reseating the TC before reinstalling the engine?

 

TL;DR: Which is easier, disconnecting the flexplate from the engine while the engine is still in? Or reseating the TC with the engine out of the car?

[apexi]

Never done that, but I remember watching this vid months ago and it seems like unbolting at the flex plate is much smarter and safer

[Max Capacity]

Can't you just unbolt the TC from the FP from that hole in the back of the block with the rubber plug in it ? Just put a socket on the crank pulley bolt to hold and rotate the crank as needed.

[dgoodhue]

Unbolt the TC from the flex plate, it is going to be hard to do it the other way when reassembling, plus I imagine the motor needs to come further forward for removal, which could add to the complexity of removal.

[dease42]

Unbolt the TC, using the hole Max Capacity is mentioning (see the vacation pics). It can be a little tricky to get things started, but once you break the bolts loose, it isn't too bad.

 

 

 

Getting them on again, without dropping them.. well, worry about that after you get it off

[awfulwaffle]

Unbolt the TC from the flex plate like everyone says. It took me all of 20 minutes on the wife's car. Make sit much easier to pull the radiator and accessories on the front of the motor, so you can get a leg into the space there and get yourself right over the port where you access the TC bolts.

 

Also, make yourself a little holder that you can use to hold the TC onto the trans input shaft through the starter hole. It'll prevent you from accidentally slipping the TC off when you're pulling the motor and dumping ATF everywhere, and having to deal with getting the TC refilled and reseating it. Pretty much, you just need to make a little bracket that bolts to one of the starter mounting holes, and has a little hook that protrudes inwards and holds on to the toothed portion of the TC.

Edited February 14, 2021 by awfulwaffle

[Max Capacity]

Remove that black rubber plug,

 

[kzr750r1]

4 bolts thru the port max showed.

Just pulled mine again.

Make sure the converter stays in place and drop the inspection tray.

The lower studs will try to drag the converter out. Happened last time to me.

Luckily no damage.

Take your time. Use a level adjuster for the hoist. Jack that trans up as you go.

It will come out.

Did it solo this time.

[Berge56]

Also when you remove the engine make sure the TC is seated in the trans before reinstalling the engine. To do this just rotate the TC by hand while giving some slight pressure towards the transmission. Failure to making sure your TC is seated can result in a blown transmission as the TC won't be seated properly with the internal transmission pump. The picture with the photobucket water stamp on it is the incorrect depth. The top view picture shows the correct depth the TC is supposed to be seated into the transmission.

[kzr750r1]

Of course there is a special tool Subaru has to hold it in place.

It's just a piece of bent metal.

Attaches to the lower starter stud.

I'll probably be measuring and bending one out of some scrap for the install and future motor pulls.

[m sprank]

I never used Subarus tool. We made one. Its not difficult.

[kzr750r1]

Yeah. Just mentioning it because it will help keep it in place.

Nice to hear from you Mike!