05 LGT advice needed

[dgoodhue]

It sounds like you have it all figured out.

[Tehnation]

MAC makes GS and Cobbs 3 port solenoids, each claims there's is different and better in some way. I guess it would work, but I prefer the Cobb. You will need to splice into the harness or add a connector if you use the generic MAC.

 

Intake, you do see gains with a cai, not anything spectacular, I would say anywhere from 5-20hp on a stock turbo. The most important thing is properly tuning the car. If you are going to use the cobb ap without a tuner, you should use the cobb cai, they probably have an ots map for it.

 

Your spending your money in a weird way, if your on a budget. An accessport is like 700 bucks, you coulda bought a tactrix cable 170 or even better a bootleg vagcom cable cause you have an 05 which is like 20 bucks. Got an etune for like what 150 plus a 20 bootleg vagcom? You woulda saved 500 bucks which could have bought you a downpipe, plus 3"-2.5" adapter if using oem catback, an uncatted uppipe and resistor for egt sensor mod. You would have some change leftover as well.

 

What throttle body are you planning to use?? Now I'm curious... Can it run off the oem servo? How exactly do you install it??? Switching from dbw to dbc would be costly I think.

Edited August 31, 2020 by Tehnation

[Tehnation]

You can spend 200 total for a tune optimal and specific to your car and mods or spend like 720 for an ok ots generic tune, or end spending 720+150 for a cobb etune....

 

Also want to inspect your turbo for shaft play before you do anything, if the turbo craps out it will take your short block with it, then you need to cough up 2k for another block, and 400-800 for another turbo. Don't overlook the turbo before you start adding horsepower.

 

Why would you want rwd? The car works much better with awd, in terms of acceleration and cornering/turns. Rwd would only be useful at top end, like over a 100 mph, which is only really applicable if your driving around a nascar track or running from the cops. Even in a 1/4 mile awd would be the better setup. If you want rear wheel drive pull out your front axles....j/k.

[jaylew]

Only other upgrade I’m going to do is the cold air intake.

Where are the moderators, honestly. It's spelled' "Hot air intake"

And here I thought my posts were rambling on

[Pleides]

The engineers used the intake they did because it’s best for air density for both fuel economy and power. Adding an aftermarket intake just gives you turbo noises.

 

These cars are not like your Honda at all. The only stuff you want to change straight away are the uppipe (catless), downpipe (catted), and an intercooler with a tune, so you can have all that extra boost.

[Tehnation]

I would get the bulletproof mod for a stock turbo, stock intercooler can handle stock turbo easily and then some.

 

Unless he upgrades the turbo, there isn't much to mod. If I had stock turbo, all I would mod is the downpipe, uppipe, boost controller, a performance air filter and an etune. Anything other than that and your wasting your time.

 

Hey guys, stop hating on cai, I love my grimmspeed intake! lol , I love the sound, lets me know its eating well and is nice and strong. For his setup, it would get him 5hp maybe 7, all things being equal an intake will get just a slight bit more, is it worth 300 dollars? A lot of people say no.

Edited August 31, 2020 by Tehnation

[awfulwaffle]

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[dwmccauley01]

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Thats what my intake sounds like

 

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[mzsinko84]

I already had the parts for my 06 LGT but they weren’t put on that car.

[mzsinko84]

As of right now I don’t have any plans on upgrading the stock turbo but I do have plans to get an uppipe, downpipe, the air filter, switching exhausts and getting an Etune.

[AVGxp]

Have you gotten the help you were looking for? My honest opinion is if you are tight on cash, don't mod anything, you'll need that money to fix problems instead. I had a 300whp 04 wrx that probably consumed more oil than gas because I tried to mod it on the cheap and didn't have money to fix the problems as they came up.

 

 

 

So to summarize your questions:

 

 

Avoid the throttle body, fmic probably won't do anything since the stocker is enough for the stock turbo, a cold air intake will need a tune and won't net much gain if any, you can probably get most of the sound just by replacing the stock filter anyway.

 

 

What are your goals is probably a better question. More power, more noise, looks...

[Max Capacity]

If you want turbo sound, remove the silencer under the air filter box. I can hear the vf46 turbo spool on my Spec B and the VF52 on the wagon is pretty loud.

[ttnio]

turbo/ or aspirated vehicles are something special.

 

learn the concept and basics before altering or bettering the system.

[mzsinko84]

As far as you know Boxkita, was installing the AWD/RWD from the 90’s Dodge power wagon difficult?

[mzsinko84]

And do you know if it was the transmission, the drivetrain or possibly both? In 100% all honesty, I’m ignoring what I read about how a mod or a part is not worth installing on the car.

[Tehnation]

Here's another question, why do you need to upgrade the throttle body?

 

When you have forced induction, a throttle body may make the car worse unless you are running really big hp. You will most likely just screw up your engine throttle response. Also there is no point in adding a bigger tb unless you port out the intake manifold or get a bigger one. If the system can't take more air then the bigger tb is useless! Your bigger tb is going to mate against a smaller intake manifold, and I don't think you can port a plastic manifold. As soon as the air goes through the bigger tb and into the smaller intake manifold you pretty much negated the purpose of the bigger tb. Physically it doesn't make any sense.

Edited September 3, 2020 by Tehnation

[Wagonation]

I just did cobb stage 2 and am happy with that, TBH. I am using this as a commuter car and don't want to break it any more than it already does, lol.

 

Anyway, listen to the folks here as they knows these cars. The tune always has to match the mods or your engine goes pop.

[dwmccauley01]

Lol why post on a forum if you don't want advice.

 

I can guarantee the dodge power wagon transmission will not be a direct swap. You'll need to fabricate most connections and you will need to swap the entire drivertain because they don't work similarly at all. You are likely looking at several thousand dollars.

 

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[awfulwaffle]

Why are we talking about swapping in a truck drivetrain with a separate front diff and front driveshaft? Where do you expect to route said driveshaft forward? Where's your front diff going to live? Your engine is going to be in the way of literally all of that, if the factory subframe remains.

 

These are things I've looked into to try and keep 4 drive wheels in my 'dumb ideas wagon', but have yet to find a viable solution. There is a guy out there running a full AWD GTR drivetrain and motor that can be switched to RWD in a 08-14 WRX shell. He also has way more money into his car than I bet you want to spend.

 

Edit: here you go :

Edited September 4, 2020 by awfulwaffle

[DaveWaters]

OP, This forum is a wealth of knowledge of what works and what doesn’t for the LGT platform. You need to spend some time here reading up on build threads and the stickies up top. Figure out what you want to do with the car and make it happen. What do you want to do with the car is the question. It sounds to me like you might want to have an awd car that at the push of a button becomes a drift car. Understand that vehicles like a durango and some Jeeps have a fulltime 4wd system that can be shifted to part time 4wd or rwd via a transfer case. This is a completely different setup from what subaru uses for their awd system. I don’t think you will find anything you can do to make the car awd/rwd on a budget. I’d check over at nasioc and see if anyone has done this on the impreza platform because that potentially could translate over to the LGT. Oh and make friends with google as it works better than the forum search engine.

 

As for the other things you want to do to the car....

I know previous posts touched on some of this as well.

 

Steering wheel w/QD? Do you really want to do away with the airbag? If this is a show car or race car ok but in real life it might just save your life.

 

Throttle body? As has been said before, it’s worthless to a build thats not very high hp. Since this car is drive by wire I’ll bet whatever tb you’re looking at isn’t gonna work anyway.

 

CAI. This is one of those things where hey you could spend your money elsewhere and get more bang for your buck. It sure does look nice when you open your hood but a good one like Cobb or Grimmspeed is going to be a black box anyway (not an exposed cone filter) and really isn’t necessary if your looking to make 300awhp range anyway.

 

I don’t think it’s been discussed in this thread yet but blow off valve is a bad idea too. Stick with stock recirculating valve.

 

No need for FMIC, bulletproof stock TMIC or aftermarket are your best way to go. GS makes a fantastic TMIC but is is $$.

 

I don’t think you ever answered if you have manual or automatic trans. You will see more power loss to the wheels with AT over manual so keep that in mind. Also if you have AT and are increasing the power you may want to install a valve body kit to firm up the shifts.

 

Have you done all the necessary upkeep to the car since you got it? Fluids? Plugs? Timing belt if it hasn’t already been addressed? Compression test? Leaks located and sealed up? Don’t forget to ziptie all the vacuum lines. Even better, go through and replace all dried up lines with silicone but don’t remove the restrictor pill at the turbo unless you’re adding the ebcs in which case you will need a tune other than a Cobb ots anyway.

 

Best place to start as was previously stated would be Cobb stage 2 ots tune with a catted downpipe, and cat back exhaust. A catless up pipe from any year sti or aftermarket is a great addition for longevity. Once you decide what you want to do power wise then put together the parts install em and get a pro tune.

Edited September 4, 2020 by DaveWaters

[Max Capacity]

Why are we talking about swapping in a truck drivetrain with a separate front diff and front driveshaft? Where do you expect to route said driveshaft forward? Where's your front diff going to live? Your engine is going to be in the way of literally all of that, if the factory subframe remains.

 

These are things I've looked into to try and keep 4 drive wheels in my 'dumb ideas wagon', but have yet to find a viable solution. There is a guy out there running a full AWD GTR drivetrain and motor that can be switched to RWD in a 08-14 WRX shell. He also has way more money into his car than I bet you want to spend.

 

Edit: here you go :

 

 

I'll bet that was cheap to do...

 

You young guys may not remember Frankster, he put a v6 Buick into his GT.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-subaru-beat-buick-heart-140053.html

[awfulwaffle]

I remember! Mulling a Vortec reeeeeal hard for my red wagon because of Frankster's success with the GN motor

[mzsinko84]

I got the 80mm throttle body and a few other parts that I still have, Cobb accessport v3 stage 1 which is currently installed on my car, a boost control module (BCM), I plan on doing a custom intake, another exhaust and I know a car body repair guy repairing a spoiler that I ordered for my last Legacy GT.

[mzsinko84]

I have a Mac 3 port BCM, it’s not installed on my car.

[mzsinko84]

These are things that I ordered before I got the Cob accessport, now that I have it, I found out about Cobb parts or upgrades for my car.