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05 LGT 5spd EJ257 Type RA Build


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Hi Guys,

 

Quick question, I'm trying to figure out which pcv valve assembly to buy. I found that flat irons tuning has this assembly Click Here. I also found this pcv assembly Click Here, just unsure which one to buy. In the picture they look exactly the same. The one in the second link you can't really see the white sensor because of the background but it's there. The sensor looks like they're in the same location on both assemblies. I'll be pulling the engine today and getting things ready. I just want to make sure I have everything I need when I start putting things together on the new block.

 

 

If your PCV rattles when you shake it, its fine. I'm still running the one that came in my wagon.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Are you going 6 speed swap or ppg gears?

 

No I'm not. Maybe in the future I'll look into a 6 speed swap. Just can't afford it right now.

 

If your PCV rattles when you shake it, its fine. I'm still running the one that came in my wagon.

 

I haven't checked out the condition of the pcv system. For the price and since I'm throwing in this new bottom end I figured I'd just replace it.

 

Worked on getting the engine out today. It's almost out, just waiting on this coming weekend for my brother to come help me out.

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The car came with a catless up pipe, I'm unsure of the brand. Invidia catless downpipe, 3 inch exhaust, AVO turbo inlet hose, and a cobb 3 port boost solenoid. I'm assuming the car has a protune, just not sure what it is. I'll have to take it back in for a protune. Also, the VF40 that I took out looks in great condition, it's pretty new looking. It doesn't have the wastegate crack and doesn't look like it has 200k on it.

 

As for the tmic, my current one is pretty smashed. It has a metal tie down holding it together. I think the previous owner tried to put it back to stock, but the oem stuff wasn't well take care of.

 

the tmic metsl tie down is a mod that allows the stock tmic to not lose its effectiveness. Unless it's verified leaking, it's still working. Look up threads by barmanbean who sold that kit

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the tmic metsl tie down is a mod that allows the stock tmic to not lose its effectiveness. Unless it's verified leaking, it's still working. Look up threads by barmanbean who sold that kit

 

I think at this point I might have to try and run it. I have to save for an upgrade.

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pictures of the old tmic ?

 

As I was pulling this out to take pictures of the tmic, it literally broke apart lol. On the last pic you can see on the bottom corner of the IC where it's leaking oil. It's a black oil spot. I just finished up ordering a new Subaru OEM Dipstick Guide & Subaru OEM PCV Kit (05-06 Legacy GT). I think I'm getting close to getting almost everything I need. I assume I'm going to have to buy a few hoses after I remove the intake manifold. I've seen a few of the hoses that were cut and just put back on.

 

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Edited by k00laid83
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Received my new pvc assembly and dipstick guide. Should have the engine out tomorrow, unless it snows. My only worry is because of the whole quarantine going on, that my machine shop isn't open. Guess, I'll find out soon.

 

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Pulled the engine out today. Came out pretty smoothly, only thing when taking off the clutch it looked pretty worn. The throw out bearing looked like it was going to pop pretty soon. The past owner definitely put in quality parts.

 

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Let me know. Also, just noticed you got the IAG turbo oil line kit. You'll have to either have to install it backwards and get one longer line, or grind down a tab on the back of the passenger side head to get it to fit as intended. You'll see what I mean when you take a look back there.
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Let me know. Also, just noticed you got the IAG turbo oil line kit. You'll have to either have to install it backwards and get one longer line, or grind down a tab on the back of the passenger side head to get it to fit as intended. You'll see what I mean when you take a look back there.

 

Hey thanks for the heads up. I was thinking the same thing and installing it backwards. Then I thought what do I do with the OEM avcs lines if they're coming from the front of the engine. I assume I'd have to get some regular bolts with crush washers to seal them up. I like the idea of not using the front lines because I don't have to deal with having to take off the timing belt covers and timing belt to remove the line if I ever had to.

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Only the drivers side avcs feed comes up from the front. The passengers side comes from the rear of the head. When I installed my iag feed iirc it had 1 thicker crush washer in the kit which gave it the space to clear.

 

So, with the IAG kit I wouldn't need to use any of the stock avcs lines? I'm a little confused right now lol.

 

Update:

I ended up going to IAG's site and looking up their instructions. I see now what you mean. I wish I could use a different location for the avcs oil feed for the driver's side.

Edited by k00laid83
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe! Just a small update, I finally got my Company23 cam tools in today. I made a purchase not related to the engine. I found a good deal for a jdm double din dual zone kit, that should be getting here sometime soon I hope. I also got myself an ae64 JDM Auto HVAC Control Wiring Adapter and stereo harness. While I was at it I got an antenna adapter too. I had to do it, I couldn't handle the stock stereo when the car was operational lol. This weekend should be a good one because now I can break down the engine and get the heads to the machine shop.

 

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Ah ha! So you're the one who scooped the double din up. Nice! It will be a good addition to the build.

 

Oh so you were eyeing it too haha. Yea, I think it'll be a great addition to my build. I even ordered vinyl wrap to clean up some of the interior. I also picked up a black interior from a lgt wagon. I'll should only have to paint one panel, and find myself the rear seat belts in black. Just waiting on vinyl wrap to get here so I can get the interior installed.

 

The gentleman that I bought the interior advised that I can drill out the rivets from the upper parts of my old door panels and use them on the new ones. The upper part of my rear door panels are in better condition than the ones I just bought. I'm just unsure how to get them reattached, I thought new rivets but I'm afraid that it might not work. Anyone have any suggestions?

Edited by k00laid83
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I was wondering what everyone is using for their clutch. The one that came off my car made my clutch pedal super stiff. I keep wondering if it's because my throw out bearing was on it's way out.

 

The clutch that was in there was a JC Comp stage 2 clutch. I was thinking of running a stock Exedy or stage 1 Exedy. Recommendations are welcomed. Almost forgot to ask, how many members here are running an upgraded clutch fork? As stiff as my clutch pedal was it just doesn't seem like it's the actual clutch. I'll remove my clutch fork today after work and inspect it. I keep thinking of upgrading it but I'm really surprised on the cost of an aftermarket piece.

 

Thanks.

Edited by k00laid83
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OEM fork should be fine.

 

I'm big fan of the Spec 2+ clutch. On the second one in my 05 wagon. 75,000 miles and still going strong. Not much more then a stock pedal feel. I see they now have a drivability kit for it.

 

Thing I notice is the car doesn't like lugging in a gear at low rpm's.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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OEM fork should be fine.

 

I'm big fan of the Spec 2+ clutch. On the second one in my 05 wagon. 75,000 miles and still going strong. Not much more then a stock pedal feel. I see they now have a drivability kit for it.

 

Thing I notice is the car doesn't like lugging in a gear at low rpm's.

 

I was thinking about just picking up a stock fork, but after looking at things I don't think it's normal what I've experienced. I'll have to check them out.

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I noticed that I have a stage 2 comp clutch. Everything looks good. I could pick up just the clutch disc and reuse the pressure plate. Of course I'd take the pressure plate and flywheel to my machine shop to get resurfaced. Just wondering how many people have used a clutch. If I'm being honest, the clutch disc looks good still. I'd like to get another comp clutch throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Any suggestions?
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There really isn't a whole lot of material on the clutch to start with. Call Comp Clutch and talk with someone, ask for the material thickness.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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There really isn't a whole lot of material on the clutch to start with. Call Comp Clutch and talk with someone, ask for the material thickness.

 

Thanks bro. I'll definitely do that. I already spoke with a few companies and they offer replacement clutch disks. So I think that might be a good option and still get to keep my stage 2 clutch kit. I also picked up a mishimoto tmic and ordered my vf52 from hill country forced induction.

 

Update:

I contact comp clutch and sent them pictures. For some reason the throw out bearing grinded into the actual pressure plate fingers. They advised that the clutch wasn't adjusted correctly and my throw out bearing had failed. So now I need to get a whole clutch kit. They did advise I had one of their flywheels, and if it weren't for the grinding I could have reused the pressure plate. I would have just needed a clutch disk and bearings.

Edited by k00laid83
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