05 LGT 5spd EJ257 Type RA Build

[k00laid83]

Also, this might work. Azek decking had an issue with fading and they sent out a product called DeckMax. It re-catalysized the material restoring the color. I want to try this on plastic parts. I am about to order some and see if it works. It'll melt plastic if left on too long so...

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it for sure.

[k00laid83]

UPDATE!

 

Well it's not really an engine update. I've been holding off on buying more engine parts until after the holidays. Christmas is a very expensive month for us lol. The Legacy has been sitting untouched for a couple of months. I was feeling bad for the old girl and decided to check out my local pick n pull and found the same colored Legacy GT. I picked up a the hood scoop, passenger side mirror, the passenger rear door panel, tow hook cover and the seat switches since mine was broken.

 

While the car has been sitting I was trying to clean her up some more. The previous owner thought it was a good idea to rattle can the hood scoop black. The owner didn't know what he was doing and didn't scuff the paint. I decided to clean off the old paint and I think I did a pretty good job but the rattle can paint job ruined the original color. The hood scoop I picked wasn't perfect but it's in better condition than my original. I also need to figure out how to take apart the mirror so I can use my original mirror lens since it's in better condition than the new one I just got.

 

Old Hood Scoop:

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Hood Scoop:

 

 

 

 

Old Passenger Rear Door Panel:

 

 

 

New Passenger Rear Door Panel:

 

 

 

Old Passenger Side Mirror:

 

New Passenger Side Mirror:

 

 

Old Tow Hook Cover that looks like it got rattle canned as well:

 

New Tow Hook Cover:

 

[KevinEdgar]

Fixing little things like that mean a lot to me, good job

[k00laid83]

Fixing little things like that mean a lot to me, good job

 

Thank you sir! Those little things add up overtime and make the difference. Now I have to hit up the local pick n pulls and find good condition rear door window moldings for the mean time. I think I'll replace all of the window moldings once I paint my car. I think new would be the way to go in the long run.

[k00laid83]

Update:

 

I hit up my local Summit Racing today and picked up almost all of the AN fittings, nylon braided fuel line, and a deatschWerks fuel pressure gauge. I figured I'd stick to the same brand fuel pressure gauge as my fuel pressure regulator. I was originally going to go with aeromotive everything. Only thing left is to buy (7) 90 deg. AN fittings and my pieced together fuel kit will be complete. I must say the vibrant fittings are very nice, and it's awesome that their fuel lines are E85 safe. I keep thinking about doing the cobb E85 kit. E85 isn't readily available where I live and I don't think I actually would need it.

 

 

 

 

[k00laid83]

I was doing a bunch searching and read that the 08-14 wrx/sti aftermarket air intake uses a different maf sensor than our LGT's. I can't seem to find a straight answer, and I've been going through here and facebook groups and can't find the information I need. I found a good deal on an injen CIA for an 08-14 wrx/sti. Just trying to figure out if I should buy it or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[rhino6303]

I was doing a bunch searching and read that the 08-14 wrx/sti aftermarket air intake uses a different maf sensor than our LGT's. I can't seem to find a straight answer, and I've been going through here and facebook groups and can't find the information I need. I found a good deal on an injen CIA for an 08-14 wrx/sti. Just trying to figure out if I should buy it or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

It won't fit. The maf sensor is completely different. In theory you could convert to that style, buy a new maf, buy a new connector and then repin. That's all assuming the maf sensor works in the same manner as our current MAF though.

[xt2005bonbon]

Why did they use a different one for this car? Same engine as far as I know except the turbo, no?

[k00laid83]

It won't fit. The maf sensor is completely different. In theory you could convert to that style, buy a new maf, buy a new connector and then repin. That's all assuming the maf sensor works in the same manner as our current MAF though.

 

That's what I ended up figuring out. For $60 bucks I thought it was a hell of a deal. I've been looking for an adapter plate but can't seem to find one. I guess I'll just have to not buy it since I don't want to change out MAF. I'd rather keep it original. Thanks for the heads up!

[k00laid83]

Why did they use a different one for this car? Same engine as far as I know except the turbo, no?

 

I wish I knew why because this makes it more difficult to find deals. I wish Subaru would have just kept everything the same. As far as I know the engine is the exact same. My grimmspeed tmic is the exact same except the air splitter is different. I guess I'll have to buy a new grimmspeed air intake.

[k00laid83]

Just ordered the last of my fittings. I picked up 90 deg. vibrant fittings. As we speak I'm currently 3d printing -6AN vise clamps. I'm also going to print a AN Vise Clamp that can do -3 to -32 fittings. First half of the -6AN vise clamps, this print seems very legit.

 

 

[Underdog]

I was doing a bunch searching and read that the 08-14 wrx/sti aftermarket air intake uses a different maf sensor than our LGT's. I can't seem to find a straight answer, and I've been going through here and facebook groups and can't find the information I need. I found a good deal on an injen CIA for an 08-14 wrx/sti. Just trying to figure out if I should buy it or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I have the Cobb SF+ intake for the STI on my LGT. The STI MAF has a higher threshold, but it also has a different o-ring boss and the mounting screw pattern is mirrored. It works on the same principal but you will need a new connector (CONN-85788 from Ballenger Motorsports) and MAF scaling. The wire order is not the same as LGT but I don’t recall off the top of my head - anyways I see that you don’t want to swap MAFs in the first place.

Edited December 18, 2020 by Underdog

[k00laid83]

I have the Cobb SF+ intake for the STI on my LGT. The STI MAF has a higher threshold, but it also has a different o-ring boss and the mounting screw pattern is mirrored. It works on the same principal but you will need a new connector (CONN-85788 from Ballenger Motorsports) and MAF scaling. The wire order is not the same as LGT but I don’t recall off the top of my head - anyways I see that you don’t want to swap MAFs in the first place.

 

Hey man I appreciate you making the suggestion. Maybe I'll consider it in the future. Yea, I think I'll just stick to the stocker for now. I wish they made an adapter plate for something like. Maybe I can make one for my set up. Possibly 3d print if or something.

[Underdog]

I only went with it because I was building for 350whp in a stock location turbo on pump gas, and like a little headroom on the critical inputs. In my experience every turbo Subaru needs a MAF replacement eventually; these cars tend to go through them. If I remember right the cost is about the same for the sensor itself, but obviously the harness and intake factor in, plus labor (time or $). But at least getting the word out there that this is possible opens up some options for folks.

 

Nice build thread, btw. Subbed.

[k00laid83]

I only went with it because I was building for 350whp in a stock location turbo on pump gas, and like a little headroom on the critical inputs. In my experience every turbo Subaru needs a MAF replacement eventually; these cars tend to go through them. If I remember right the cost is about the same for the sensor itself, but obviously the harness and intake factor in, plus labor (time or $). But at least getting the word out there that this is possible opens up some options for folks.

 

Nice build thread, btw. Subbed.

 

That's a great point. I bought a new maf when I was initially trying to figure out what was wrong with the car. I will be getting a protune any way but I wasn't planning on hitting 350hp. I was shooting for 300hp for a daily. I guess I have to think about it. I keep thinking about just building my own air intake, gives me a reason to bust out my tig welder.

[k00laid83]

Installed a couple of parts I picked up from the junk yard. I have the rear cup holder but it was broken and tried to glue the portion where the spring goes in. Unfortunately, it wasn't successful and I ended up buying a used not broken rear cup holder from ebay. Just waiting for it come in before I put the center console back into the car. Also, I found a gentleman I will be buying is old shift boot. The previous owner had a shift boot that wasn't quality and faded. I tried dying the shift boot with no success. Plus the old owner installed the clip that the shifter clips into incorrectly. It wouldn't allow me to put in the shifter into the shift boot. I should be getting that shipped to me this weekend. I also received my 90 degree fittings from vibrant today. It's the last of my fuel line fittings I needed and can get the new lines started asap.

 

 

[k00laid83]

Update

 

Over the weekend I picked up this injen cold air intake for a 2008 wrx for $60. My plan is to design an adapter and 3D print it. That way you can bolt on your stock maf sensor. I think it could be a great addition for the LGT community. Especially if someone finds a deal on an air intake from a wrx they wouldn't have to avoid buying it. I'm also thinking of designing an air intake for the LGT. Maybe I can TIG weld one up out of stainless or aluminum. In the meantime I'll be buying an AEM dry filter since this one is pretty dirty and messed up.

 

 

Edited December 28, 2020 by k00laid83

[k00laid83]

Update!

 

I haven't posted much in the last month. I've been collecting parts and just ordered new exhaust cam gears for my peace of mind and the group-n tranny mount. This week I received my new shift boot and e-brake boot from zealous interiors. They look great and I don't need to add the shifter knob retainer since it's already done for me. Lastly, I've been building i88 harnesses for the community. It's been keeping me busy that's for sure. I'm looking forward to buying the bigger parts I need so I can finally drop the engine into the car. I'll have to redo my timing but I think it'll be worth it to have everything new in the timing area. My goal in the next couple of weeks is start adding motor mounts, exhaust manifold, and prime the engine with oil.

 

 

 

 

[k00laid83]

Update

 

I got my new exhaust cam gears installed. While I was removing the old gears I noticed that they had chips. I'm a lot happier knowing that the timing portion of the engine is all new.

 

Last night I decided to install my new shift boot and ebrake boot. I must say the quality from zealous interiors leather boots are great! I'm very happy with them and the plus side is that I didn't have to glue in the shift knob retainer. It came pre-installed and one less thing to worry about.

 

My plan now is to get more of my engine put together. I'm focusing on getting it completed soon and hopefully back in the car quickly.

 

 

 

 

 

[Infosecdad]

Zealous Interiors makes good stuff!

[KevinEdgar]

Man, I gotta wrap my shifter plate too.

[k00laid83]

Zealous Interiors makes good stuff!

 

Yes very good quality! I'm very impressed with them.

 

Man, I gotta wrap my shifter plate too.

 

You know I wish I had not wrapped my shifter plate. The ash tray door was wrapped but it wasn't very good. So, for that I ended up just using some SEM Landau Black interior paint and it matches perfectly. I think once and if the wrap starts coming undone or ruined I'll just redo it with SEM paint. I usually use that exactly color when I make custom gauge clusters.

 

On a side during my lunch I decided to throw back in another ebrake I had that's in better condition than what was in there. I also put in my center console that I reworked. I found a rising arm rest at my local pick n pull and I put in a new to me rear cup holder that's not broken. I originally had that rising arm rest in the car when it was tan, but lost it once I swapped to a black interior. While I was in there I installed the new boots. I'm very happy with the interior so far. Once it gets warmed up a bit I'm going to redo the headliner and the rest of the tan plastic pieces to black. I already have STI sunroof controller, map light and dome light in black. Should really clean things up.

 

Old Ebrake:

 

 

 

New Boots and Ebrake:

 

 

 

 

 

[k00laid83]

Update

 

So I tore down my double din and gauge pod area again. I was tired of seeing that one oil pressure gauge. I decided that I would pull my cubby out and fix it since it looked ugly to me. When I was pulling out the cubby I noticed that it was broken from the get go. Luckily, I had spare one that was complete in my garage. When I was pulling out the cubby I noticed how nasty the wiring was for this oil pressure gauge. Now my OCD has kicked in and I'm redoing the gauges and I'm building a wiring harness for my new gauges that have been sitting around in my closet.

 

While I was taking apart the old gauge I noticed that in one of the gauge holes there was a plastic container super glued in place. The container was from those quarter vending machines at the supermarket lol. I was not expecting to find that there haha. There was so much super glue that I had to sand down the cubby gauge mounting plate, use SEM texture paint and repaint it with SEM landau black. If I'm being honest the cubby gauge mounting plate is a quality piece that's made out of metal. I think I cleaned it up pretty well and looks brand new. I'm very happy that the cubby door can finally close. That old one was broken in all the important places. I'll also be installing a ProClip phone mount when I install reinstall everything. I'll be working on the gauges wiring harness this weekend. Well now on to the pictures.

 

 

 

 

New gauges:

 

http://i.imgur.com/6s2izMIl.jpg

[k00laid83]

Over the weekend I decided to make a harness for all of my gauge senders. I made sure to use a connector with several more spots just in case if I add anymore gauges in the future it makes things easier. I think it turned out super clean especially when you compare it to the rats nest of wires for the single gauge that was in there. I should have this finished up this week once I get my heat shrink for my DYMO 4200 label maker. I'm wanting to label each harness where I'm tapping into for power. That way if I ever have to take something apart it makes things easier to identify. Hopefully, I don't have to take apart my vent cubby or stereo apart again. I don't know how many times I've put everything back together and then taken it apart again. Once this is all done I won't need to touch anything related to my gauges again. The only thing I'll have to do is run the wiring from my senders to the harness connector I put in the engine bay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The rats nest of wires that I took out:

 

[k00laid83]

Update

 

Over the weekend I installed the new boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. I must say it came out very clean. If I ever have to remove my stereo or gauges it will be a very easy process. I'm tapping into the needed wires to power the gauges from my stereo. I made a wiring loom for each gauge and each loom is labeled by the stereo harness and above by the cubby vents for each gauge. It's nice to be able to use the cubby door to hide the gauges. The original cubby vent was broken and I couldn't close the door. I also threw in my proclip phone mount while I was at it.

 

Today I ordered the new clutch for the car. I should be able to throw in the engine soon. I was going to order my injectors but I can do that after when I'm buttoning up the engine. I ended up ordering a stage 2 Competition Clutch. The original clutch that was in the car was a stage 2 Comp. Clutch with flywheel. Since I had the flywheel resurfaced I didn't need buy that kit again. Sometime last year I spoke with a rep from Comp Clutch and she recommended using their stage 2 clutch rebuild kit. This was a better route since the price is about $100 to $200 cheaper than buying a stage 2 Comp Clutch. The stage 2 rebuild kit comes with a Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, Pilot Bearing, and Alignment tool. The price for the rebuild kit was $435 from TH Motorsports, Part # 15026-RK-2100. The rep said to that the "RK" in the part number is the most important part.

 

Now on to the pictures.

 

Comp. Clutch Stage 2 Clutch Rebuild Kit:

https://thmotorsports.com/12269643-competition-clutch-15026-rk-2100?gclid=CjwKCAjwp-X0BRAFEiwAheRui-lP11O3yCYhlMbJwuZ4607eoGcve4lYyIjBgX4Yx8xppRaxfo0C8hoCEzoQAvD_BwE