EnduringGuerila Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 (edited) edit: Build thread here I just bought a 2005 OBXT for $1600(all stock afaik)and have ordered a ton of parts. I am wondering what I might be missing, did I forget something super important? Also, what's my next bottleneck? The parts I have ordered: Cobb Accessport v3Cobb Air IntakeCobb Shifter Drive TrainBNR EVO3 16g TurboOil bypass stuff (link here)Invidia Catless UppipeGrimmSpeed Catted DownpipeAVO Catback 3" exhaustNGK LFR6AIX (x4)PILOT SPORT A/S 3+ 225/55R17 (x4) The brakes seem pretty messed up but I am looking into doing a caliper and rotor upgrade before I start replacing any brake stuff. The clutch also feels like it might be slipping a bit, I only notice in 1st gear but I have been really taking it easy on the car since the stock turbo is seized according to the previous owner. This is my first serious car build. I started my own motorcycle repair shop and have been maintaining and toying with cars for years so I know how to swing a h̶a̶m̶m̶e̶r̶ wrench. I do plan on doing all the work myself, this Suby will be my new (to me) baby. Edited January 20, 2020 by EnduringGuerila Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Before you purchase all that, I'd pull the seized turbo. I'm guessing you're in no rush here but if it seized they tend to throw metal into the engine or crank bearings and then you need a new short block. Or you're just gonna kill your new turbo too. Other than that looks solid to me. From the looks of it you should look at replacing or at least bulletproofing/epoxy on the stock intercooler. Sometimes the end tanks develop leaks above 17psi. I can't remember what the stock head studs are good to but I think it's 18psi or something like that. Hope you're planning an proper tune and not an OTS tune. Yea I'd go to lgt brakes before doing anything to those. Some for sale for $200 right now from pdxammo. You don't really need an air intake unless you want one. I think the stock one is supposed to be good to around 300whp and it pulls colder air. You might want to look at a new turbo inlet though as they tend to tear when you pull the turbo. Not sure your mileage. I'm assuming it's not low. Replace the pcv valve (I've got the whole assembly if you want it cheap) and at least clean the MAF sensor. That and go get some kroil for all those stuck bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Yeah, that set of LGT brakes probably won't last too long either. I'm considering grabbing them myself. So save me $200 please. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) I think I was reading that wrx calipers fit on the OBXT with slight cutting for the rear the other day. I plan on doing more research before jumping into anything. I did a 5th gen 4Runner caliper upgrade on my 4th gen and did a whole writeup for everyone about it. Thanks for the reminder on the TMIC, I was planning on doing something like this. I might take you up on the assembly, let me check out how mine looks first though. Doubt I'll have time this weekend, it's snowboarding season! Edited January 15, 2020 by EnduringGuerila Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 No worries. I bought one from another forum member without realizing the hoses are different on the 05-06 so I didn't use it. It's just been sitting in a box. It's new never opened. The wrx calipers fit with a different bracket for the rear. AFAIK no need to cut. However the legacy gt brakes actually are better than the wrx. More surface area and stuff. For bigger brake upgrades there are the sti brembos (like 2k per axle) and someone did a write up on using Cadillac ats brembos. But really unless you do serious track days, or really want vs fixed calipers, it's not worth the money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I actually just bought that same kit to do that and will be doing it soon. Awfulwaffle had one already done that he was asking I think $75 or $100 for. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 The clutch also feels like it might be slipping a bit, I only notice in 1st gear but I have been really taking it easy on the car since the stock turbo is seized according to the previous owner. If the stock turbo is seized and you're continuing to driving the car. It is 99% chance that you're going to need a new motor. I wouldn't spend a dime on the car until you pull the turbo and do a oil sample analysis (or check for metal in the oil/oil filter.) Diagnose that issue and then decide how your going to spend your money from that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) If the stock turbo is seized and you're continuing to driving the car. It is 99% chance that you're going to need a new motor. No, I am not continuing to drive the car. I drove it home the day I bought it and tried to keep the RPMs below 3k. I was assuming the motor would need to be replaced or rebuilt some day so I'm not too worried. The body is in great shape and I researched a ton of cars before deciding an OBXT would be my car of choice. I wanted something fast with a turbo, 4 door, 4wd, not completely shit ground clearance and decent cargo space. Turbos are great here in Colorado and 4wd sure does help in the winter. I had a 09 Mustang GT which was fun for a bit but not my style. I actually prefer the looks of the LGT sedan over the hatchbacks but can't beat the hatch functionality. Edited January 15, 2020 by EnduringGuerila Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Sounds like me but with more research and not 8k into the car before the motor goes. You're on the right track imo. But if you can run it without blowing the engine that obviously will make things more enjoyable. Since you're going to pull the old turbo anyway, might as well do it before purchasing new stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berge56 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I did the same thing 2 years ago except the obxt I bought the engine and turbo were junk. I slapped a brand new EJ 257 in and had the heads completely gone trough by a machine shop. I assembled it with ARP headstuds and just about every bolt on part out there. With the BNR 16g the car made 290whp and 330 wtq. My car is a 5eat so I added a transgo shift kit and the car drives fantastic. Good luck with the build and keep us posted with what you find and the progress you make! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 I might do a full build log on it. I used to love reading through peoples builds but many of their threads were not well done. Especially if they put updates in new posts with a ton of comments in between, it can get really hard to follow. As for ripping the turbo off first... I bought the car like 5 months ago and ordered most of the parts 3-4 months ago. The exhaust stuff I ordered last week though. I haven't had time to actually work on the car as I had other projects that needed finishing before I allowed myself the indulgence of working on the OBXT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 The wrx calipers fit with a different bracket for the rear. AFAIK no need to cut. However the legacy gt brakes actually are better than the wrx. More surface area and stuff. I hadn't heard that, I'll have to look into it. If they are bigger than the WRX brakes, I might go that way instead. I thought I read in a LGT thread that people were upgrading from the stock LGT brakes to the WRX brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I hadn't heard that, I'll have to look into it. If they are bigger than the WRX brakes, I might go that way instead. I thought I read in a LGT thread that people were upgrading from the stock LGT brakes to the WRX brakes. Here's everything you could want to know about brakes. The only reason to run the wrx 4 pots is to clear 15" wheels for rally imo. Brakes: How to buy brake upgrades? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=5383&share_tid=8151&url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D8151&share_type=t&link_source=app Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I might do a full build log on it. I used to love reading through peoples builds but many of their threads were not well done. Especially if they put updates in new posts with a ton of comments in between, it can get really hard to follow. As for ripping the turbo off first... I bought the car like 5 months ago and ordered most of the parts 3-4 months ago. The exhaust stuff I ordered last week though. I haven't had time to actually work on the car as I had other projects that needed finishing before I allowed myself the indulgence of working on the OBXT. Haha that's how my build thread is. It's terrible. It's more of a follow along and when I mess up I'll ask questions since I'd never done anything even close to an engine rebuild. I plan to go back and make the first post sort of a table of contents like covertrussians is. We'll see if that happens. Well that makes more sense then about the purchases. I think it's just common for people to get the car and start trying to mod it on an unreliable engine. Then they don't have money to fix the engine. But sunk cost that money is gone. Still think an oil analysis is good because if you do something like throw a rod bearing as you start tuning you'll be real sad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 Replace the pcv valve (I've got the whole assembly if you want it cheap) and at least clean the MAF sensor. How much do you want for it, what brand? Convenient that I have the older ugly sister model to your 08. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 I called the local tuner that can do Cobb and he recommended getting the GrimmSpeed E Boost Controller, especially since I got a bigger turbo and plan on getting it tuned anyway. He said their tunes are $550 so that's not bad. I thought it would run me closer to $1000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 Is that for a dyno tune? It's subaru OE. I got it from a forum member for $20 so you can have it for $20. It's this, I can pm you a picture tonight. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Wagon/HOSE-ASSEMBLY-PCV/49223720/11815AB790.html Full assembly all the hoses. Due to the secondary air intake on the 07-09 the hoses don't line up right so I just bought new stuff from the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 Is that for a dyno tune? Yea, TGA Performance here in CO Springs. "$550 for a single map" I plan on doing a compression test on each cylinder while I have it up and replacing the plugs anyway. Hopefully nothing is below 100psi! The guy I talked to at the dyno said 140psi for that engine is perfect/new and anything below 100psi probably shouldn't be pushed at all and isn't far from a rebuild. I found this article on the EJ engines, good stuff to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 Yea that's about what cryo charges up in Denver so that sounds reasonable. What's most common with these is cylinder 4 will be much lower than the other 3. Keep us updated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCvillain Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Sounds like a good start. I have a stock turbo installed but a BNR 16G sitting till this spring to install as well. My reason for the new turbo is an oil leak that will be cured with MOR PWR! The extra ground clearance is really handy. Have thrown quite a few Cyl 4 misfires codes over the last year+ but only when idling 30+ seconds. Just got a COBB with the recommended tune and same code showing but I can monitor that #4 and the "roughness" and when driving. When idling, it is rough but once underway, no prob and no roughness numbers on the COBB. She drives just fine but the idle is the problem. Just keep it revved @ 2k I guess..... That will solve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnduringGuerila Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 She drives just fine but the idle is the problem. Just keep it revved @ 2k I guess..... That will solve it. lol, you could just the set the idle to that but honestly not ideal. I'd recommend finding a real fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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