EnduringGuerila

I have prefilled the oil filters on all cars that I can and the sub is the first one I've owned that the can is completely upside down and can nearly completely fill it. I only drove it like 10 miles to the new house and no leaks (from the new OE oil filter) and I'm still using the OE drain bolt. The front axle seals are still leaking, was hoping they might stop when I lowered the car off the jack stands it had been sitting on for months. I've had to shove a screwdriver through to get the oil filter off a used car I bought. That wasn't fun, I still hardly got the damn thing off. It was practically just half of an oil filter stuck to the block. Think it was on my 4runner.

I finally got it buttoned up enough to drive it to the new house! I got to hear the new exhaust (think it has a slight leak by the downpipe) It's louder than I wanted but not too bad. Has quite a nice tone to it. I'll record a video when I move it to the other garage bay to start working on it again. I bought a 2011 KLR650 on Friday for only $1600 and I'm going to be cleaning that up for resale for the next week or so. Hoping to get $3000 or more for it. I made updates to this turbo oil feed post but that's about all I documented on the changes. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5947055&postcount=26

Shit man, driving with a trailer is a bit of an art and it isn't easy to explain. How much weight you're hauling, now steep the hill is, your tires, manual vs automatic trans, etc. All these factors will affect the decisions and learning to just feel the car and how to react. I'd recommend just searching YouTube for general tips as a dedicated video will likely be easier to learn from than anything someone types here. If you're hauling so much weight that the autotrans shifts constantly, then turn off overdrive so you're maxing at 4th gear. The transmission will usually shift down to 3rd or 2nd when it's appropriate.

I agree with a brake equipped trailer. I have a 7x16ft enclosed trailer with brakes and I know that's heavier than you'd pull with a Subaru but my v8 4Runner would have crashed without trailer brakes.

I haven't looked into hitch kits or installation on the Outbacks yet so I can't say how easy it will or won't be, nor have I installed an trans cooler before. The hitch I installed on my old civic was quite easy and there were kits that tie into the rear brake lights for trailer light wiring. Not perfect but it worked and was cheap and easy.

This: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-tow-3-000-lb-boat-outbacki-85241.html Not quite the same but I had a 1997 Civic, 1.6L manual trans, threw a $150 under-mount hitch on it and hauled my 1970s Jon boat. I'm planning on putting a hitch on my 05 Outback XT so I can haul my motorcycles around, but it's a manual trans too. If you have an automatic, I highly recommend you get a trans cooler. I have a friend with a v6 Civic with a trans cooler and he has hauled some serious weight around. Mostly a flatbed trailer with 2 dirtbikes plus a 4wheeler but on occasion he hauled a 3000lb enclosed trailer. We're up in Colorado and he often hauls up the steep mountain roads.

This was the stock turbo on the sub I bought:

Quick update, I got the turbo in, the stock oil line capped off, trimmed the GS Downpipe to fit the new turbo. Still need to run the new oil feed line with dedicated oil filter mount the exhaust, intercooler, etc. Then it should be drivable enough to get it to the new house! That's where all the new fun begins. I decided I'm just going to go ahead and do a new clutch, flywheel, fuel pump, injectors, clutch damper delete (if this car has a damper), new intake tube (the stock one that connects the Cobb intake to the turbo is falling apart!), and more... See you next time on: Dreams/Plans Of A Guy That Has Been Making Insanely Slow Progress On His Subaru (new title of this build)

Moving is hell, I'm still not done moving all my stuff. It's mainly just the car and my tools left behind. Aiming to at least get it running enough to drive here so I can work out of the new, much larger garage!

Yea, I usually try to buy stuff like the T70 in a set so I have more of a variety for future projects. I highly recommend everyone change their copper washers when doing the trans. I ordered that as a variety pack too, since after changing the fluid, the trans is now leaking from the drain hole. For the Subaru emblems, I planned on drawing something myself in the cad software, the images were just for ideas. I gave it some more thought and I agree with you that it should be more personalized than just a cool looking design. That is, if I do it at all. If I paint the car, I'll probably just fill that in and paint over it so there is no emblem at all. If not, then I'll likely do a gorilla as I have been going by 'EnduringGuerila' since 2006 (Xbox live gamertag, had 15 char limit). Shit, I'm 28 so that's exactly half my life... I then thought I could make custom designs for other Subaru owners if they want to buy them. Wouldn't be too hard once I've created the base template that fits the cars body impressions.

Another update: I'm buying another house and will be moving! I am aiming to have the car driveable before closing (8/11/20 at the latest) but likely won't do the tune before then. We'll see how much I can get done between packing and working.

Welp, I started the debadging! Should I remove these too? I am planning on designing and 3d printing something to cover the Subaru logos. Thinking a simple two color turbo design could look cool. Thoughts on these designs I found online? 1. 2. 3. 3. painted the same color as the brake calipers? (use some imagination) Yea, that might be too much burnt red/orange? idk.

Finally changed the transmission and rear diff gear oil. I assumed it hasn't been changed in quite a while so I bought a cheap full synthetic 75w-90 ($38), plan on running that for a very short time, then change it all again to the Motul Gear 300 75W-90 ($92). Had to buy a T70 socket to drain the transmission oil.

Quick update: I got a little sidetracked and didn't work on the car much. Somehow I lost one of the new oil feed lines for the turbo and still can't find it so I just ordered another, $40 wasted. I also just ordered 3 new exhaust gaskets: Total $ 35.27 P/N Quantity Price EA Description 14038AA000 1 $ 13.11 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 44011FA020 1 $ 7.74 Catalytic Converter Gasket, Gasket Exhaust Joint, Gasket for Catalytic Converter System 44022AA170 1 $ 11.73 Catalytic Converter Gasket (Outlet), Gasket Exhaust Joint, Gasket for Catalytic Converter System I also installed new lights so I can actually see what the hell I'm doing in the garage without constantly wearing a headlight: More to come soon!

Annoyingly enough, I misplaced one of the new dedicated oil lines for the turbo and still haven't found it. I think I have to give up on finding it and order a new one.... Tips: -The stock exhaust from cat back isn't that restrictive and you might want to wait on that. I wish I had, 'wasted' good money for little to no performance gains. -Inspect your old turbo for missing metal bits that might have gone into your engine! -be careful with the sunroof, I opened mine and it took a while to get it closed. had to remove the glass to 'fix' part of the tracks. Mine will likely fail again next time i open it. I don't have many real tips yet but I'm sure things will come up once I get around to finishing the car!

Looking good man!

Nice! What are you going to do with the LGT? I am probably going to have to rebuild my motor soon as I too am installing a BNR16g (and other mods)! thread here

Reserved for Cobb Drive train Shifter Install Videos: The Cobb Drivetrain parts: Stock shifter: At the back of the transmission, above the exhaust (which I already had off). Get this heat shield out of the way. My shifter linkage felt pretty stiff so I didn't replace the joint. Might change my mind and do this before I put the exhaust back up and this becomes more annoying to get to.

Exhaust Install (note: I wish I could go back and use either the invidia or Cobb catted downpipe instead of GrimmSpeed. The fitment with the turbo was annoying and the stock heat shield doesn't fit at all. I also just noticed that the GS DP has the cat AFTER the second O2 sensor.) Exhaust Parts: _$485 - GrimmSpeed Catted Downpipe (The stock downpipe is one of the biggest stock bottlenecks) _$157 - Invidia Catless Uppipe (only 2005 and 2006 OBXTs/LGTs have a catted uppipe) $1133 - AVO Catback 3" exhaust (This may have been a mistake, not cheap and stock isn't that limiting) __$30 - Nuts Bolts and Washers from Ace (The AVO pipes came with new bolts and all but I was short 3 bolts and 5 nuts in the end. Think the GS DP and BNR turbo didn't come with any) As mentioned up here, I had to trim the downpipe from GrimmSpeed. The downpipe fit up to the stock turbo just fine but it doesn't play so nicely with the BNR 16g. I tried to trim off as little as possible so I kept test fitting the DP with black marker on it to see where it rubbed. Got it to sit flush, then couldn't fully open the bypass so a tad more cutting. It's not 'pretty' but I didn't want to take any more material off just to make it look nice. Here's the final shape. AVO install: The muffler does barely clear the bumper without any modding but there is a lot of thin unsupported plastic so I'll likely trim around it to give it even more clearance. (fingers are fully extended behind the plastic) If I let the unattached muffler sag on the hangers, this is how close it gets to the bumper: This is about where I think it will sit when fully mounted:

I have put this turbo in and taken it back out way too many times. Partially because of the downpipe not fitting due to turbo waste gate size/location and partially because the stock intake is ripped and floppy as hell and didn't want to go over the turbo inlet. BNR writeup on the bypass/feed line Parts list: $865 - BNR EVO3 16g Turbo __$8 - Stock Subaru oil filter _$32 - Turbosmart Billet Turbo Oil Feed Filters TS-0804-1002 (Summit Racing) _$18 - Oil Filter Pressure Plate (ebay) _$34 - Oil Feed Line #4 (-4 AN) - SS Braid, 1ft (ATP Turbo) [i somehow lost the first one, $40 mysteriously vanished] _$34 - Oil Feed Line #4 (-4 AN) - SS Braid, 3ft (ATP Turbo) _$10 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 670410 (Summit Racing) __$4 - Russell AN to NPT Adapter Fittings 660420 (Summit Racing) __$7 - Goodridge Crush Washers 44516-10 (Summit Racing) New oil filter with adapter plate and turbo oil line stuff The orientation of the inline filter doesn't seem to matter. The filter itself is serviceable and taking it apart showed both halves being nearly identical. This is all of the oil feed line parts minus one of the missing braided hoses: Here is the line put together. The shorter cable on the left was put on top by the turbo but I might reverse these so it's easier to get to the filter without taking off the intercooler... Put Liquid Teflon / thread sealant on all the feed line connections: Here is the top of the feed line going into the turbo: Here is the routing I chose for the feed line avoiding the uppipe and as far from the down pipe as possible without drooping to the ground or being squishable if the car bottoms out. At the top left is the exhaust manifold. The orientation of the pressure plate is slightly limited and this was the position I chose. I also put thread sealant on the two unused threaded plugs and screwed them in as far as I could. Sorry I didn't document the turbo install part very well. Might have more pics to add later

Brakes install The hub was quite dirty. Removing the wheels and old rotors was quite difficult. I cleaned up the hub with a wire brush on my drill Slathered the center of the hub with anti-seize and mounted the rotor. Put brake grease on the brake pad tabs

Intake install The hood prop bracket is too low and keeps the Cobb cover from fitting properly. So I took a Dremel to it, cut off a bunch of the bottom and it didn't seem to compromise the strength. I cleaned this up some more right after taking the pic. Now that the Cobb cover fits under the hood prop, the stock air duct is in the way. I started off using the Dremel but it was difficult to get clean cuts. Switched to using a razor blade. Took a lot more effort than the Dremel but much cleaner cut. The plastic is actually surprisingly difficult to cut with a razor. Cover finally fits: Luckily the chunk i had to cut off didn't cut into the duct itself I had to cut slightly crooked to avoid cutting this plastic 'rivet' Finished? I cleaned it with WD-40 lol

As much as I don't want the car to be super loud... I think I do want all the turbo noise!

Got the old air intake out! The air box has a large "junk" blob on the bottom that seems to just collect debris (don't tell anyone but I accidentally ordered the Cobb WRX/STI intake instead of the OBXT intake so I have to wait for that to arrive...)

The new pipes! The new turbo makes contact with the GrimmSpeed downpipe The section circled in red makes contact with the waste gate hinge since the waste gate is slightly larger than stock. I got the old exhaust and up-pipe off The old exhaust was broken in two places from the previous owner bottoming out! Next to my hand to compare size (insert dick joke here) The up-pipe was actually in good condition, it just has that shitty cat and is a smaller diameter than the new catless up-pipe.