What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[SubOperator]

On 1/12/2024 at 6:02 AM, alex0856 said:

Yeah I'm just installing based on Second Skin's damplifier pro instructions which state to install in a checkerboard pattern covering 25-60% of bare metal for the most efficient results. Overlapping over factory tar boards or doing full coverage has diminishing returns, especially since its intention is to absorb vibrations and not road noise.

I'm aiming for about 40% coverage with damplifier pro in the areas I have exposed right now (will do the doors later on) and then I'll be fully covering the floor from the rear footwells up with luxury liner pro for noise and heat insulation.

Eventually I'll pull the headliner and take a similar approach to that as well.

I did the roof when I had the headliner out. Also I did the rear gate since I had the trim off anyway.

All this combined made the car much more quiet.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

3 hours ago, alex0856 said:

It is a bit misleading, anyone would read the fluid replacement step and think it's all one and the same. I got it backwards - I only read the bleeding step at first and took that as the only way to do it lol. I had my system completely drained down though so bleeding basically came before replacement.

Yeah thats weird. I’d have thought that you’d bleed the brakes and replace the fluid as you bleed (making sure your MC doesn’t get depleted)…that’s what I did when I replaced the rear wheel cylinders on my s10. Leave it to Subaru to complicate something simple. Guess that’s why I like them?

[Infosecdad]

2 hours ago, SubOperator said:

I did the roof when I had the headliner out. Also I did the rear gate since I had the trim off anyway.

All this combined made the car much more quiet.

I plan to do my roof when I pull my headliner to dye it black.

[SubOperator]

3 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

I plan to do my roof when I pull my headliner to dye it black.

The OEM sounds proofing on the roof is very minimal.

[tehspud]

Let the car sit all weekend in single digit (F) temps. Oil light didn't go away on startup this morning, I don't really feel comfortable letting it idle to warm up to see if that goes away. I checked the dipstick, there's oil there.

 

I'm hoping it's just too cold, and my next post isn't about buying a new short block...

Edited January 15 by tehspud

[SilentJ20]

2 hours ago, tehspud said:

Let the car sit all weekend in single digit (F) temps. Oil light didn't go away on startup this morning, I don't really feel comfortable letting it idle to warm up to see if that goes away. I checked the dipstick, there's oil there.

 

I'm hoping it's just too cold, and my next post isn't about buying a new short block...

Yikes.  I hope so, too, having just done a short block for other reasons.  The oil light is for pressure, right?  So once it warms back up outside you could do the post-new-engine method of building pressure back.  As in, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank a bit, rest, crank a bit, rest... a few times to see it the light goes off.  No ignition = less damage risk.  Have no idea if that's the best way, but it seems it couldn't hurt.  Too bad the damn oil pump is buried in there.  How often do those go bad?

Can you throw a heat lamp or something under it to warm the oil pan?

[tehspud]

23 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Yikes.  I hope so, too, having just done a short block for other reasons.  The oil light is for pressure, right?  So once it warms back up outside you could do the post-new-engine method of building pressure back.  As in, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank a bit, rest, crank a bit, rest... a few times to see it the light goes off.  No ignition = less damage risk.  Have no idea if that's the best way, but it seems it couldn't hurt.  Too bad the damn oil pump is buried in there.  How often do those go bad?

Can you throw a heat lamp or something under it to warm the oil pan?

Yeah, light is for oil pressure. Above freezing temps aren't happening until this upcoming weekend, today's high is supposed to be 14. I might be able to get a small heater underneath the pan, and change the oil just in case. 

However I'm very much leaning towards just getting it towed to a shop and letting them figure it out. 

Edited January 15 by tehspud

[xt2005bonbon]

You can also press the clutch and gas pedals (wot) while cranking. It will just crank and not start. I usually do that when the car sits for an extended period of time to build up oil pressure.

On another note, I want to buy a 12 pack of oil filters. Man, 10 years ago I was used to pay 65$ for these. Cheapest I can find is 120$ now!

Edit: to be fair, it appears that Subaru now sells the 'good stuff' (black filter vs blue).

Edited January 15 by xt2005bonbon

[Infosecdad]

I tried working in the garage this afternoon, but it's 14f out and the garage is not heated or well-insulated.

I have most of the rear suspension removed, it's time to go after the front and prep the engine/trans for removal.

Then I'll need to build the chassis dolly to get it off the quick jacks.

Bins and bins of parts that I need to figure out what's going to the white wagon and what's going for sale back into the community.

[BoozeRS05]

I was gonna say the same thing. Hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking and it won’t turn over. I also do this if my wagon has been sitting awhile, like it has the last 6 weeks

I did recently buy some of the Co23 vacuum T kits to replace under the intercooler and reroute the BPV line.

[tehspud]

Update, changed oil. It was about a quart low, not great but not terrible after 4k miles. In sure some of that was still in the pan considering I couldn’t get any heat on it, and it’s 12 out there. 
 

HOWEVER

This is probably bad and I still shouldn’t drive it. (See attached vid)

 

 

[SilentJ20]

13 minutes ago, tehspud said:

Update, changed oil. It was about a quart low, not great but not terrible after 4k miles. In sure some of that was still in the pan considering I couldn’t get any heat on it, and it’s 12 out there. 
 

HOWEVER

This is probably bad and I still shouldn’t drive it. (See attached vid)

IMG_1476.mov 36.13 MB · 0 downloads  

 

Oof.  That's fuel?  That should stay inside the engine.  Although, the cold does weird things to rubber parts.  Likely some seals have aged and contracted enough to no longer do their job?  Good news about those is they're all on the topside at least.

On the plus side, the engine didn't sound bad.  Did the oil light go off when you ran it like that (assuming that vid was after the oil change)?

Edited January 15 by SilentJ20

[tehspud]

35 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Oof.  That's fuel?  That should stay inside the engine.  Although, the cold does weird things to rubber parts.  Likely some seals have aged and contracted enough to no longer do their job?  Good news about those is they're all on the topside at least.

On the plus side, the engine didn't sound bad.  Did the oil light go off when you ran it like that (assuming that vid was after the oil change)?

Yeah, oil light went out a few seconds after starting up. I did the full throttle cranking trick to help circulate it a bit first. Looking around that hose to hardline is known to leak a bit in low temps, but that's more than just a drip or two! I don't really want to take off the intake manifold to get to that spot to seal it up, but I might have to. 

 

I just took my smallest vice grip, got it on that clamp screw, gave it an 1/8th turn, rinse and repeat for a bit. Started up, not looking like it's leaking, we'll see. 

Edited January 15 by tehspud

[SilentJ20]

This weekend I put some LED bulbs in the high beam slot and the fogs.  The halogen high beams were pretty abysmal at throwing light down the road.  I don't use them often, but when I do, I want them to THROW the light.  Also put some in for the fogs, as with the halogens I couldn't even tell if they were illuminating anything.  Brightness was just not there.

To try and replicate the filament behavior as much as I could I got these Auxito (high beams, fogs are similar geometry) with a thin led support and minimal protrusions. Even though I will not be using high beams into oncoming traffic, and even fogs will be minimal, I still wanted to put forth as consistent and non-offensive beam pattern as possible.

End result, highs are light cannons, fogs are useful.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

Think I’m gonna invest in a dipstick heater or something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Silicone-Engine-Heater-Self-Adhesive/dp/B098TFF39H

Thought about the OEM coolant heater but a buddy pointed out that’s somewhere else leaks could be introduced…

Edited January 16 by SoobyDoobyDoo

[Ashtone]

On 1/12/2024 at 1:04 PM, Ashtone said:

@alex0856

when I receive them next week, I will post the part numbers here. I gave him my vin, and he had no problem finding them. He mentioned the rear guards were wagon specific.

.

For anyone interested: 

Part numbers for oem mudflaps for LGT wagon, Hardware included

…and a full set on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323137233680?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DzWCZ5ZUSGi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mm4ShqwmRX2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[310Z]

21 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Think I’m gonna invest in a dipstick heater or something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Silicone-Engine-Heater-Self-Adhesive/dp/B098TFF39H

Thought about the OEM coolant heater but a buddy pointed out that’s somewhere else leaks could be introduced…

That looks just like a heating element that I installed on my Toyota Hi-Lux about 30 years ago running 10w-30. As I recall I used hi temp silicone to attach to the bottom of the oil pan. It helped when the temps dropped below (0). The motor would crank over easier. What even made a bigger difference was the addition of Slick 50 to the motor and manual transmission. There were times I could not move the shift lever to change gears. Slick 50 changed all of that. It is hard to even find Slick 50 anymore, it is available but I have only seen it on line. However, oils have changed.

I know we all have our own preferences with oil brands and weights and not all oils are the same. Even oils that meet the same viscosity have different flow rates when cold. The test I have seen using easy to find oils that are available on the shelf show a drastic flow rate difference even with 0w-20 oils. And the best flowing oil I have seen tested is Mobil-1. I have not seen any off the shelf oil flow as well in the cold as Mobil-1, it's not even close. So my 2010 Supercharged Tundra 4x4 that has spent it's entire life outside gets what flows the best in the cold and that is Mobil-1, 0w-20 as called for. My GT is getting Mobil-1 5w-30. I am not trying to start an oil argument just helping inform those having extreme cold motor cranking over problems.

[Claw]

It's been -40C last couple of days.. car started both times I went out, but the last trip on Sunday to take my kids for their swimming lessons I got a P0171 and a P1572 show up 2 blocks from home.  Luckily I was able to get home..

Cleaned the MAF, reset the codes and went for a drive today, thankfully they didn't return but it got me thinking.. I replace the front two coil packs a couple of years ago (misfire, rough idle), but I think the rears are due for replacement this year.. what brand should I get from Rock Auto? NGK and Denso I recognize from the forums here.

There's probably also a tonne of old rubber seals and hoses and what not I should start budgeting to replace.. does anyone know what needs to be done with these old engines?

[Claw]

On 1/15/2024 at 4:13 PM, SilentJ20 said:

To try and replicate the filament behavior as much as I could I got these Auxito (high beams, fogs are similar geometry) with a thin led support and minimal protrusions. Even though I will not be using high beams into oncoming traffic, and even fogs will be minimal, I still wanted to put forth as consistent and non-offensive beam pattern as possible.

End result, highs are light cannons, fogs are useful.

Do these Auxito LED bulbs fit into the stock 05 fog housings?  I'd be interested in giving it a try.. even with yellow LAMIN-X on my fogs they don't seem to throw out that much light..

[Infosecdad]

13 minutes ago, Claw said:

I replace the front two coil packs a couple of years ago (misfire, rough idle), but I think the rears are due for replacement this year.. what brand should I get from Rock Auto? NGK and Denso I recognize from the forums here.

 

Diamond Electric is OEM, NGK is probably ok as well.

[silverton]

10 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Diamond Electric is OEM, NGK is probably ok as well.

I was about to do an NGK hate post because their warranty is generally 30-60 days and its just like...yall stand that hard behind your product huh?

The NGK coils have a 3 year warranty, vs the denso's 1 year, so that's nice!

[SilentJ20]

13 hours ago, Claw said:

Cleaned the MAF, reset the codes and went for a drive today, thankfully they didn't return but it got me thinking.. I replace the front two coil packs a couple of years ago (misfire, rough idle), but I think the rears are due for replacement this year.. what brand should I get from Rock Auto? NGK and Denso I recognize from the forums here.

I kinda cheaped out on the a coil.  One of my factory ones was operating fine, but part of the mounting lug for the bolt had broken.  I went with Delphi brand.  It was about a third of the price of NGK and Denso when I bought it.  I figure if Delphi is an OEM provider for other brands, they probably know how to make a coil.  About 5 thousand miles in and no issues.

Edited January 17 by SilentJ20
spelling

[Kojak]

Replaced key fob batteries when wifey’s died. Might as well do both. Also just discovered that my VIN plate never got swapped w the new dash 3+yrs ago. Bummer. 

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Getting excited for tomorrow. Picking up the freshly painted body parts and dropping off at the shop along with the S402 mufflers. I'm probably going to ask if I can put @madrig's spoiler on while I'm there ha. Little sneak peak and refresher of the parts. Emotion Fukuoka rear bumper (taped off portion is a satin black), Madrig CF wing (Liberal style), OEM sport side skirts and JDM mirror cover garnishes. Trying to decide if I'm going to post my full set of strakes/spats for sale or keep for the parts hoard. Probably hoard.

[BoozeRS05]

Rockauto has one set of aluminum mevotech front control arms on close out, ~$50 each.. I was gonna grab them as backups, but seems overkill