What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

1 hour ago, Ashtone said:

I just ordered a set from Groove Subaru in Denver, so they’re still available from the accessories catalog. Thanks alex0856! I didn’t know about the oem mud guards.

Awesome thanks for the info, good to know!

@Lone_wolf_subie thy looks really good on your car…love those non-usdm bumpers… esp the JDM spec b style. 
 

@DoctorDaveLGT How’s the car coming along? Can’t wait to see this thing in person. The calipers and springs look so good with the white! Plus the trim and cf…

@alex0856, would a heat hun help with that perhaps?

[Lone_wolf_subie]

5 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Awesome thanks for the info, good to know!

@Lone_wolf_subie thy looks really good on your car…love those non-usdm bumpers… esp the JDM spec b style. 
 

@DoctorDaveLGT How’s the car coming along? Can’t wait to see this thing in person. The calipers and springs look so good with the white! Plus the trim and cf…

@alex0856, would a heat hun help with that perhaps?

Cheers mate! Appreciate it! Joys of living in New Zealand

[alex0856]

11 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

Oh damn. I did my entire cargo floor, like every square inch of it. I put pieces spaced out in chunks like you’ve done, but only inside the door panels.

Yeah I'm just installing based on Second Skin's damplifier pro instructions which state to install in a checkerboard pattern covering 25-60% of bare metal for the most efficient results. Overlapping over factory tar boards or doing full coverage has diminishing returns, especially since its intention is to absorb vibrations and not road noise.

I'm aiming for about 40% coverage with damplifier pro in the areas I have exposed right now (will do the doors later on) and then I'll be fully covering the floor from the rear footwells up with luxury liner pro for noise and heat insulation.

Eventually I'll pull the headliner and take a similar approach to that as well.

@SoobyDoobyDoo

Not sure if you're referring to my mud flaps or sound deadening but you are right either way lol the old flaps got a nice curve to them over the years that could possibly be fixed with a heat gun. As for the sound deadening heat is definitely its friend but I decided to say screw it to the electric bill this month and run a space heater in the garage for a few days while I get this done. Fortunately second skin goes on pretty easy.

@Ashtone

No problem! I was honestly surprised they were still available. Did you order the wagon specific rear mud guards? I had a hell of a time figuring out the part number for the fronts as I was getting conflicting information from different dealer sites on which set was for fourth gens.

Edited January 12 by alex0856

[Holla]

On 1/8/2024 at 4:54 PM, Code said:

Are you still using the stock MC or upgraded sti unit?  I don’t plan on changing mine. Just doing caliper/rotors/pads. 

I would recommend upgrading the MC/booster to the STi unit.  This alone is one of the best mods you can do on a LGT, even with the stock brakes, and it's so cheap to do.    The MC/Booster makes a bigger difference than the Brembo's IMO.  It really tightens up the brake pedal feel.  You barely get into the brakes and they're right there in the pedal.      

 

The rear Brembo's were the 'last' mod I did on my LGT too.  It's a frustrating mod.  It's a lot of cost for what I consider a cosmetic mod.  I went a couple of years with just the front Brembo's and STI MC/Booster and noticed no difference when I finally swapped to rear Brembo's.  Looking back, I was just fine with front's only.  It was another $1000+ and I wasn't wild about modifying my trailing arms.  

[Code]

See guys. This is the advice and influence that I need from the enablers on this forum.  
 

I already own everything to do all four corners. Just need to get them out for PC.   Since I’m already opening up the system I guess I should just do the MC/booster and be done with it.  Otherwise I’ll be left longing for that firm firm pedal….cut to dream sequence…

[xt2005bonbon]

57 minutes ago, Holla said:

I would recommend upgrading the MC/booster to the STi unit.  This alone is one of the best mods you can do on a LGT, even with the stock brakes, and it's so cheap to do.    The MC/Booster makes a bigger difference than the Brembo's IMO.  It really tightens up the brake pedal feel.  You barely get into the brakes and they're right there in the pedal.    

 

This is what I am looking for: improved brake pedal feel. I have an OBXT though (smaller rotors) with stock calipers. I have stoptech pads and rotors + the Grimmspeed bracket. Still crappy pedal feel IMO. I will probably do this upgrade then.

[KZJonny]

I had considered the MC/booster swap as well along the way, but I suppose I must not be as discerning. I always thought the pedal feel on the LGT was quite good, and got better with the GS bracing.

Is this a 'because race car' type mod, or what? Maybe someone at the ECM will have the mod this year and I can feel for myself.

Is the STI swap still compatible with the GS bracing? Or is it one or the other?

[DoctorDaveLGT]

@KZJonny Yes, the GS bracing is still compatible with the STI MC. I swapped the STI master cylinder in mine with all the other brake work but I haven't had a chance to test it personally yet since we're doing a bunch of other things at the same time and just consistently crappy weather recently. I personally hated the feel of the LGT brakes the first time driving the car back after purchase. Every car I've owned has had better brake feel short of my '99 Jeep XJ, ymmv.

@SoobyDoobyDoo Things are moving. Dropped off the wing, bumper, skirts, and mirror garnishes for paint this morning and should be done early next week. Picking up a new dashboard from Subaru within the next few hours and running it up to shop later tonight. That was a last minute audible, he had the entire dash apart working on other wiring and I just decided to get the new one since the sticky is creeping in on mine and what better time. I personally wanted to try and tackle this one but I don't foresee any free time between tax season and baby #2 due in May.

[KZJonny]

14 minutes ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

@KZJonny Yes, the GS bracing is still compatible with the STI MC. I swapped the STI master cylinder in mine with all the other brake work but I haven't had a chance to test it personally yet since we're doing a bunch of other things at the same time and just consistently crappy weather recently. I personally hated the feel of the LGT brakes the first time driving the car back after purchase. Every car I've owned has had better brake feel short of my '99 Jeep XJ, ymmv.

Perhaps the upside to most of my cars being old junk, is that my newest(ish) and fastest/best handling car by a mile is the GT. So, it is my nicest old junk, I suppose.

By comparison to the rest, the pedal feel on the GT is positively delightful. Lol! I'd still consider the swap, considering how easy and relatively cheap it is... Better brakes are somethign I'll spend some money on. The stock calipers stay tho... gotta look stock, and they're sufficient for my needs.

[Ashtone]

9 hours ago, alex0856 said:

 

@Ashtone

No problem! I was honestly surprised they were still available. Did you order the wagon specific rear mud guards? I had a hell of a time figuring out the part number for the fronts as I was getting conflicting information from different dealer sites on which set was for fourth gens.

@alex0856

when I receive them next week, I will post the part numbers here. I gave him my vin, and he had no problem finding them. He mentioned the rear guards were wagon specific.

.

[WRX USA]

24 minutes ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

@KZJonny Yes, the GS bracing is still compatible with the STI MC. I swapped the STI master cylinder in mine with all the other brake work but I haven't had a chance to test it personally yet since we're doing a bunch of other things at the same time and just consistently crappy weather recently. I personally hated the feel of the LGT brakes the first time driving the car back after purchase. Every car I've owned has had better brake feel short of my '99 Jeep XJ, ymmv.

@SoobyDoobyDoo Things are moving. Dropped off the wing, bumper, skirts, and mirror garnishes for paint this morning and should be done early next week. Picking up a new dashboard from Subaru within the next few hours and running it up to shop later tonight. That was a last minute audible, he had the entire dash apart working on other wiring and I just decided to get the new one since the sticky is creeping in on mine and what better time. I personally wanted to try and tackle this one but I don't foresee any free time between tax season and baby #2 due in May.

Be sure to swap the VIN plate on the dash over. When I got mine swapped under the sticky dash warranty replacement they forgot to remove the VIN plate which luckily I noticed and they were able to save from the trash but they gave it to me in a bag.

[seanyb505]

For all those unhappy with brake feel, make sure you're making these judgements after effectively bleeding your brakes. I know I need to do that now, and I hate the feel. I remember what it was like when they were bled really well and I miss that. For my aggressive punk street driving, I actually enjoyed my brake pedal on well bled stock everything except pads and rotors. 

Also, as alluded to above, most of this is at best pedal feel, and at worst cosmetic. If you can lock up your tires, the braking system isn't the weak link, it's your tires. 

Having said that, I think our cars' mods are more driven by owners' personal preferences as opposed to outright speed. Otherwise we'd have a different platform to achieve better performance. 

Feel free to brembo and brace all the things! 

[GearJamr]

Heck, I notice a difference in brake feel depending on what shoes I'm wearing, so put in what you feel is necessary.

I prefer a firm pedal feel.  I should upgrade to the STi unit and put my GS brace on.  Plenty of other actual "repair" type stuff needs to be done first.

[xt2005bonbon]

27 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

For all those unhappy with brake feel, make sure you're making these judgements after effectively bleeding your brakes. I know I need to do that now, and I hate the feel. I remember what it was like when they were bled really well and I miss that. For my aggressive punk street driving, I actually enjoyed my brake pedal on well bled stock everything except pads and rotors. 

Also, as alluded to above, most of this is at best pedal feel, and at worst cosmetic. If you can lock up your tires, the braking system isn't the weak link, it's your tires. 

Having said that, I think our cars' mods are more driven by owners' personal preferences as opposed to outright speed. Otherwise we'd have a different platform to achieve better performance. 

Feel free to brembo and brace all the things! 

 

I have bled the system a couple of times and it still feels mushy to me. It does not bite when I begin pressing the pedal. Sure, I can lock up the wheels but I have to press really hard on the pedal. And then I also suffer from that pulsating problem during high speed braking with these stoptech rotor/pad combo. Kinna sick of it :(.

Edited January 12 by xt2005bonbon

[xt2005bonbon]

Btw, since we are on topic, does anyone know of a good DIY thread for this job, listing the parts needed and stuff? I know I can Google this but you know.... I am lazy right now

[Code]

My brembo upgrade is purely a vanity mod. I’ve tracked the car on nothing but good pads and fluid without issue.  I’m just running out of shit to upgrade. 

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

@DoctorDaveLGT that’s smart I get it. I don’t know if mines been replaced or not…still seems ok? That’s something else on my list to buy just in case. That’s great that stuff is getting painted! Maybe we can hook up some time after tax season before May. 

my pedal is kinda mushy too…but it’s also completely stock, so there’s that. Only good thing about it is I’ve got centric blanks. 

@xt2005bonbon are you referring to a regular brake job? 

[xt2005bonbon]

13 minutes ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

@DoctorDaveLGT that’s smart I get it. I don’t know if mines been replaced or not…still seems ok? That’s something else on my list to buy just in case. That’s great that stuff is getting painted! Maybe we can hook up some time after tax season before May. 

my pedal is kinda mushy too…but it’s also completely stock, so there’s that. Only good thing about it is I’ve got centric blanks. 

@xt2005bonbon are you referring to a regular brake job? 

I am referring to the STI MC/booster swap.

Edited January 12 by xt2005bonbon

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

Ahhh ok…thanks wasn’t sure. Interested what that does too, if it’s worth it for automatics? 

[alex0856]

12 hours ago, seanyb505 said:

For all those unhappy with brake feel, make sure you're making these judgements after effectively bleeding your brakes. I know I need to do that now, and I hate the feel. I remember what it was like when they were bled really well and I miss that. For my aggressive punk street driving, I actually enjoyed my brake pedal on well bled stock everything except pads and rotors. 

Also, as alluded to above, most of this is at best pedal feel, and at worst cosmetic. If you can lock up your tires, the braking system isn't the weak link, it's your tires. 

Having said that, I think our cars' mods are more driven by owners' personal preferences as opposed to outright speed. Otherwise we'd have a different platform to achieve better performance. 

Feel free to brembo and brace all the things! 

I'll second this as someone who just did a complete mostly OEM brake overhaul.

After I had everything installed I used a vacuum bleeder to suck about 2 quarts of Motul through the lines using Subaru's bleeding procedure - start with front left, move to front right, rear left, rear right.

My brakes are minty - I just had to panic stop in the pissing rain the other day to avoid being creamed by a minivan. The ABS hardly even kicked in.

I've got new front calipers and rotors, rebuilt rear calipers and resurfaced rotors. New pads all around. And the GrimmSpeed brace. And I bled the shit out of it until the compressor was pulling straight fluid.

I've also got brand new Pilot Sport AS4s which of course helps things.

Point is, you don't have to spend a fortune. These cars are 20 years old - starting from the ground up is probably the best move you can make.

[alex0856]

As for my what did I do today post...

I did a few things but my personal favorite was the new blower fan. All I can say is - if yours is original go replace it now. I cannot believe how loud my old fan was. Slapped in a new cabin air filter while I was there and away we went.

This meant I could finally put the glove box back in, which was nice since I've had nowhere to store my gloves.

I finished sound deadening the trunk and began to put some of the pieces back in. Had to glue the right side trunk foam piece thingy back together so that'll have to wait until morning.

Lastly I ran 12 gauge wire from the future sub location to the future amp location and cleaned up my reverse camera wiring. My 4 gauge power wire for the 2nd battery will be here Tuesday. After that, the wiring project will be completed and I'll be just about ready for carpet.

[xt2005bonbon]

7 hours ago, alex0856 said:

After I had everything installed I used a vacuum bleeder to suck about 2 quarts of Motul through the lines using Subaru's bleeding procedure - start with front left, move to front right, rear left, rear right.

.

Wait, I believe the FSM says to start from the farthest wheel to the MC and end with the closest.

Edited January 13 by xt2005bonbon

[alex0856]

4 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Wait, I believe the FSM says to start from the farthest wheel to the MC and end with the closest.

Fluid replacement is done from the furthest wheel in but bleeding is done from the closest wheel out.

[xt2005bonbon]

Well, I never did that step before. Just thought the replacement of fluid and bleeding were essentially done simultaneously.

It's weird. I do use the FSM and do not remember reading that note. Learn something new everyday I guess. 

Edit: Brake fluid replacement can be found under section BR-33, while air bleeding can be found in section BR-34 of the FSM.

Edited January 14 by xt2005bonbon

[alex0856]

18 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Well, I never did that step before. Just thought the replacement of fluid and bleeding were essentially done simultaneously.

It's weird. I do use the FSM and do not remember reading that note. Learn something new everyday I guess. 

Edit: Brake fluid replacement can be found under section BR-33, while air bleeding can be found in section BR-34 of the FSM.

 

It is a bit misleading, anyone would read the fluid replacement step and think it's all one in the same. I got it backwards - I only read the bleeding step at first and took that as the only way to do it lol. I had my system completely drained down though so bleeding basically came before replacement.