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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Sunroof is giving me woes. About 3 years ago it stopped closing after being slow for a long time. Once I closed it I left it that way until this weekend. The shade catches have broken and the rods rattle like crazy. I wanted to see about reattaching by epoxy or tape. It's obviously kinda tight up there, and since I was parked inside I tried to open the sunroof. Only the passenger side of the front glass opened. Driver side is completely stuck.  

I thought maybe activating it a few times might loosen it, but no go. Didn't want to break it. Any suggestions? I'd rather have a permanently closed sunroof than a permanent hole in the roof. 

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Figure I'd throw a quick ask in here first:

Is there ANY reason why my spec.B front suspension would be wider than other cars?  I just replaced the hubs with OEM-equivalent.  Would different spindles, or anything make my front track about 1in (0.5in per side) wider overall? As far as I know, everything is stock and stock rims with no spacers.

Edited by SilentJ20
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8 hours ago, SilentJ20 said:

Figure I'd throw a quick ask in here first:

Is there ANY reason why my spec.B front suspension would be wider than other cars?  I just replaced the hubs with OEM-equivalent.  Would different spindles, or anything make my front track about 1in (0.5in per side) wider overall? As far as I know, everything is stock and stock rims with no spacers.

Did you look at the old spindles and compare them to the new ones? If there is a difference in the spindles, measure to see if there is 0.5  in.  

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On 12/7/2023 at 12:49 PM, lagwagon said:

That's my plan. Mech's thought is fuel starvation, as was my thought. I'll watch the fuel strategy as well, hadn't thought to do that so thanks for the suggestion.

 

have you done the fuel pump wiring upgrade? if not, that might fix an unknown fuel starvation issue. I think @covertrussian did the writeup on the wiring 

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Finally decided to tackle some issues with the rear suspension. The inner bushings in the upper links were shot for some time, which I periodically quieted with a squirt of white lithium grease, but with the car also needing new tires I decided to properly repair it first. The nut & bolt at the trailing arm zipped right off with an impact wrench, but that inner mounting bolt for the upper link is in a tight enough spot that I couldn't get a good angle on it with an impact & wobble or with a breaker bar, so I had to bust out the sawzall and cut through the bushing & bolt, on both sides of the car.

Toe adjuster cam bolts were also rust-frozen inside the lateral links. Last time I had it in for an alignment the tech couldn't get them to budge, so I was expecting that headache from the outset. Sawzall to the rescue again. Had to cut both sides of those bolts to pull the lateral links. Strategic application of anti-seize on reassembly to maybe prevent the issue for next time, if there is a next time (car has >300K miles).

Yesterday I had new Conti DWS-06+ mounted and got it aligned. First set of DWS-06 for me, after multiple sets of Michelin AS3/AS3+ and Pirelli P-Zero AS, which were pretty good, just figured I'd give the Contis a shot this time and the $110 rebate was a nice sweetener.

Edited by ScottFW
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11 minutes ago, ScottFW said:

Strategic application of anti-seize on reassembly to maybe prevent the issue for next time, if there is a next time (car has >300K miles).

I'm not the worlds biggest fan of MOOG stuff any longer, but their inner adjustment bolts for this application are pretty good and have a grease nipple in the head that will force grease through into the cavity left by the eccentric bolt. (where they all rust up and seize. Might be too late now.. and in any case a bath in good anti-seize helps a lot.

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2 hours ago, ScottFW said:

sawzall

lol I did the same. Except i had the whole subframe out so I wasn't on my back doing it. Like you said, anti- seize goes along way in addition to new bolts. There is always a next time!  Rest assured, you're not alone

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Yep. I did that too 8 years ago. Used tons of anti-seize. Have not given me any trouble since. At the same time, I have the whiteline KTA124 kit to adjust rear camber and toe. So we leave these stock bolts alone.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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14 hours ago, boxkita said:

have you done the fuel pump wiring upgrade? if not, that might fix an unknown fuel starvation issue. I think @covertrussian did the writeup on the wiring 

I personally haven't done it but it may have been done at some point already given the age of the car and the care the original owners (father/son[subaru tech]) took of it. I'll look it up and see. Is it running the pump off a relay with power direct from the battery?

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46 minutes ago, lagwagon said:

I personally haven't done it but it may have been done at some point already given the age of the car and the care the original owners (father/son[subaru tech]) took of it. I'll look it up and see. Is it running the pump off a relay with power direct from the battery?

it's been awhile since i read through it. It wasn't a problem I had...

The fix is increasing size of wires as current set has a pretty good voltage drop leading to insufficient fuel delivery 

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29 minutes ago, boxkita said:

it's been awhile since i read through it. It wasn't a problem I had...

The fix is increasing size of wires as current set has a pretty good voltage drop leading to insufficient fuel delivery 

Best way is this, and maintaining the fuel pump controller (or getting one from a -04-06 STi.)

Maintains the staging in the fuel pump 33/66/100, but without the 1.x V drop you see across the stock 16g? Wiring.

Deutschwerks makes a kit with a relay and 10-12g wiring for $40… hard to hey the stuff yourself for much less.

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9 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Best way is this, and maintaining the fuel pump controller (or getting one from a -04-06 STi.)

Maintains the staging in the fuel pump 33/66/100, but without the 1.x V drop you see across the stock 16g? Wiring.

Deutschwerks makes a kit with a relay and 10-12g wiring for $40… hard to hey the stuff yourself for much less.

I have a dw wiring kit sitting in my garage if you want it. Box is opened but never installed. 

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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I installed an STi controller and upgraded the wiring from the battery to the controller and to the pump using the DW kit.

It's bumped my fuel pressure up a couple PSI overall.

I have pictures and was going to do a write up, but hadn't had the time to do it yet.

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2 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I’ll snag that from you if Jonny doesn’t want it. 

It’ll be Lagwagon that might have dibs, I’ve already got the wiring kit + STi controller on the ‘to install’ list for this winter.

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The shop that tuned my car had a long jumper with clips to run battery direct to fuel pump.  They needed it in the wrx that was tuned before  my car.   The guys was happy they were able to tune the car and send him home to do the wiring upgrade without wasting everyone’s day and rescheduling due to low voltage.   

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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All this talk of the kit. My only suggestion to do the job totally right, would be to re-pin both connectors so that there is not any soldering nor bottle neck of remaining smaller gauge wire. True pin to pin larger gauge wire upgrade

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Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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