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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Finally got around to repairing the AC system on the GT. Never did work. But all that said, I’ve also never had a car with AC that worked, so it never felt like a big deal.

Thank you global warming: it is no longer really comfortable without, and I don’t feel like swapping to cloth seats from my leather ones.

So, a parts bin compressor, new condenser, o-rings and oil. Pressure testing as I write this, and so far so good. I’ll pull vacuum again and charge it in a little while if there isn’t any drop. Fingers crossed.

At least now, if anything fails in the future, I’ve got the tools to do the repairs.

 

01/08/23 - Update: Only been a few days, but happy to report the parts bin compressor is still compressing, and the ounce or two of vacuum pump oil I sucked into the AC system doesn't seem to hurt the system. (First time using a gauge set, so cut me some slack.. 🙄)

So... this is what I've been missing all these years? I kinda see why people are willing to spend the bucks on getting this fixed professionally, although it was also really pretty easy, so I'm not sure why anyone who is remotely handy would shop it out. Cost of very specific use tools would be the principal reason, I suppose.

Edited by KZJonny
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image.thumb.jpg.66219a35f52e4343e1b34ca5c3b0eb95.jpgThen changed out the too long studs with the correct length ones that Primitive Racing provided when they realized their error.

Doen’t look like she has buck teeth amymore.

Can’t say enough about my positive experience with the folks at Primitive. Excellent customer service; they mailed out new stud the same day I reached out to say I could not get the provided ones to work. Great experience buying from them.

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Progress. 

Thought I had it all figured out.  But, once again my lack or vertical did me in.  Spent at least an extra 4 hours reworking the pedals after realizing I could not get them close enough. 

Still plenty more to do. -  Need to set the pedal angle still.  Not sure if the shelf will stay where it currently is.  Found it at Micro Center and figured it would hold the console.  Have another "shelf" to mount to hold my bass shaker amps.  Need to mount the belts.  Finish running all the wires and loom them.  I am probably missing a few things.  Then its on to the monitor stand. 

This is just as much work as building a real car. 

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I drove, just to test. Not finished. Wiring is always time consuming. It might only be sim, but I wired it like a real race car. Marine grade 4:1 sealant imbedded shrink wrap and high temp braided wiring loom. 

Added a red stripe because, Race Car. 

Spent much time setting up.my driving position. I know of nothing of F1.  Never have, probably never will. But what I do know is normally referred to as "GT".  So, center of steering wheel at base of neck.  When shoulders pressing against seat wheel at wrists with arms extended. This should equate to 90 -100 deg bend in arms when hands at 10/2 and 3/6. Pedal height about level with butt. 

This is not how a street car is designed. Race set up demads using the larger muscles groups of the back/shoulder/arm. Hence the wheel plosition.  Its all about control. 

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2 hours ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

@m sprank What game are you doing your SIM racing on (assuming GT7 from the PS5)? It's wild with the PSVR2 and 3D audio. Your rig looks nice! Way better than my pos Playseat one but convenience and space management were higher priority at the time. 

 

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Thanks!  GT7, Dirt 2.0, WRC 10. 

You have far better hardware than I with that DD wheel.  Its on my list.  Building a rig was cheaper and figured I would need it for the hardware upgrade anyway. 

So close to having the build complete.  Ran out of t-nuts, but more should arrive today.  It turned out nicer than expected.  Plus, now its infinity adjustable and upgrade-able.  I modded my wheel, pedals and shifter while I was at it in an attempt to make them "better" for now. 

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1 hour ago, m sprank said:

Thanks!  GT7, Dirt 2.0, WRC 10. 

You have far better hardware than I with that DD wheel.  Its on my list.  Building a rig was cheaper and figured I would need it for the hardware upgrade anyway. 

So close to having the build complete.  Ran out of t-nuts, but more should arrive today.  It turned out nicer than expected.  Plus, now its infinity adjustable and upgrade-able.  I modded my wheel, pedals and shifter while I was at it in an attempt to make them "better" for now. 

The Fanatec hardware is great, I'm fighting the urge to not grab their CSL elite v2 pedals with the load cell brake. That rig of yours though is giving me some serious envy.

Go for the VR if you don't have already. It's worth the price just for GT7 but hoping they still add some more games in the near future.

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Back to this thing after a month of family weddings...etc...

Figured I'd make sure the injectors are clean and appear to be firing correctly, so I made a simple jig with another fuel rail.

6 of 8 appear good so far (I have 2 sets)

I made a boost leak adapter and will check for leaks after I verify the last 2 injectors and reinstall them.

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2 hours ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

The Fanatec hardware is great, I'm fighting the urge to not grab their CSL elite v2 pedals with the load cell brake. That rig of yours though is giving me some serious envy.

Go for the VR if you don't have already. It's worth the price just for GT7 but hoping they still add some more games in the near future.

Rig was less than a Fanatec wheel and pedals. But when I have the coin for a nice DD wheel, load cell pedals, shifter and handbrake I have the proper rig to mount them. No more flex. 

VR, mmmmmm.

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Fell for the "while I am there" trap once again (what's new, heh). With JDM front end swap boys dropped the side skirts and I then went and pulled the fender liners in the back to see what's there. First time since the car was built. To my own surprise, not too much rust there, especially for a car that spent 16 years in New England driving year round and parked outside most of the time. Cleaned, vacuumed and wiped everything with alcohol. Then sprayed with marine corrosion protection film.

Debating what to do with the small corroded piece of the pass side fender. Took the rust off but now there is a small opening there. Worried that water will get inside and do more damage before I get to address the rust. Need to figure out solution soon as the car needs to be put together.

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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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35 minutes ago, SubOperator said:

@m sprank You have way too much free time on your hands. Need to open a car shop or something.

🔧

Admittedly, I dont sleep much.  Gets worse as I age.  4-6 per night is all I can muster.  I could easily handle two jobs still as long as not too physical. 

I would go it alone and be self employed again if I had an idea I could turn into a paycheck.  An auto repair shop is not currently on the list.  I have some fond memories, but I still remember being beaten into submission. 

 

Made more micro adjustments today.  Sill have some small wiring to complete.  I feel like I want to move the pedals 1-2 inches, but am out of room with the pedals having a backing/base.  I suppose I could disassemble them and separate...  If I went through all that I might as well invert them like a real car too.  Oh boy.  I am deff more comfortable over the long haul.  No more neck pain, now its my lumbar.  Obviously in the proper position and need a small lumbar pillow for the hard braking.  While I have not yet bested my personal best, I am more consistent and very close to my best each time.  Seeing all the changes I made, I should be faster in a few days (or less).  Wife leaves for Dollywood tomorrow morning.  I get at least three uninterrupted days of flogging the ever loving snot out of a virtual car. 

Edited by m sprank
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Fun anecdote about my tint experience. I went to a guy who came recommended by the local subaru facebook group. Turns out to be a younger guy pretty much working on his own. Did good work, but took longer than either of us expected, so we had some back and forth texts about when the car would be ready. I got antsy around 6:30 pm (dropped the car off at 9am) and asked how he's doing and got the great reply of "Wiping it down already bro. Its juicy haha".  Got immediate flashbacks to the old NASIOC days and "them jones is wet" 

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Took all of 4 hours with wife being gone to break my personal best record.  Unfortunately, the rest of the world is also getting faster. My old best was ranked 469 overall.  My new best is back in the mid 500's.

Sim racing is not for those looking for an ego boost. 

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9 hours ago, m sprank said:

Took all of 4 hours with wife being gone to break my personal best record.  Unfortunately, the rest of the world is also getting faster. My old best was ranked 469 overall.  My new best is back in the mid 500's.

Sim racing is not for those looking for an ego boost. 

As much as I hate YEA BUT’s.  That still an impressive ranking considering you’re probably running against times set by Max, Sergio, Lewis, and Fernando.  

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Approaching 500 miles on the new short block and clutch.  No leaking fluids, no missing fluids, STI clutch is quiet  with good engagement.   Just starting to transition from grandma-levels of acceleration to "normal".  Still haven't really thrown any boost at it.

The Owners Manual says 1000 miles of under 4000rpm and little/no boost for break-in.  Clutch (Exedy) says 500 miles needed.  Online opinions and research is all over the place.  So I'm ending up n the middle--500miles of soft driving then normal for another 500 or so.  No high power pulls for a while yet.

I'm just happy to be driving it fairly normal again.

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8 hours ago, Smithcraft said:

@m sprank Those pedals remind me of my Steel Battalions controls more than they remind me of my Fanatec set up!

SC

 

The pedal deck itself is BEEFY.  I priced out the needed brackets to invert everything.  Gulp.  Its going to have to wait until I get some REAL pedals.  I also did a little digging and apparently some GT cars run floor mounted peddles now.  Too many options allowing me to spend too much money.  I estimate a dd wheel base, wheel, pedals, shifter and e-brake will run me around $2k (Fanatec).  Don't know if I will have enough by Black Friday.  Its the only sale of the year for most sim products. 

 

2 hours ago, Code said:

As much as I hate YEA BUT’s.  That still an impressive ranking considering you’re probably running against times set by Max, Sergio, Lewis, and Fernando.  

I try not to focus on how I am doing against the field and stay focused on how I am doing against myself.  I will NEVER be the fastest.  I can always strive to be faster. 

 

Its my braking slowing me down.  I would love to blame just the pedals, but some of it is me.  A better set of peddles would allow me to improve my skills.  Try trail braking with a set up that regulates brake pressure by pedal angle, not pedal pressure.  Its like braking with a throttle pedal.  Plus, I am using my left foot to brake almost exclusively.  I am thinking too much and not just driving.  Its still more fun than anything else I have to drive. 

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47 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Approaching 500 miles on the new short block and clutch.  No leaking fluids, no missing fluids, STI clutch is quiet  with good engagement.   Just starting to transition from grandma-levels of acceleration to "normal".  Still haven't really thrown any boost at it.

The Owners Manual says 1000 miles of under 4000rpm and little/no boost for break-in.  Clutch (Exedy) says 500 miles needed.  Online opinions and research is all over the place.  So I'm ending up n the middle--500miles of soft driving then normal for another 500 or so.  No high power pulls for a while yet.

I'm just happy to be driving it fairly normal again.

You want some boost.  You want varying engine speeds and loads, not cruising.  You want to engine brake.  Try to stay out of high rpm/high load/high boost situations.  But 5psi is a good thing for break in. 

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4 hours ago, m sprank said:

You want some boost.  You want varying engine speeds and loads, not cruising.  You want to engine brake.  Try to stay out of high rpm/high load/high boost situations.  But 5psi is a good thing for break in. 

Fair enough.  Thanks for the tip.  I'm not reading boost over obd2, right now, but I'm sure I'm getting a little.  Especially now that I'm driving more normally.  And it's all city.  Lots of shifting and engine braking.

I wish I could make the factory nav screen show boost...

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Thought a few people may appreciate this. Caught this while on a city tour bus in Boston recently.

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  • Haha 4

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Finally had some time to devote to the Legacy again. It's always a bit of a hurdle to dive back into a project that's been neglected for a bit. The first day was pretty much just assessing where I was. Immediately after ECM '23 I moved out of my family's place and was slammed by work, progress on the car ground to a halt. In that time, I sent my turbo out to @JmP6889928 to work his magic.

Today I connected all of the EVAP lines, the job was bigger in my head than in reality. This diagram that @RumblyXT was invaluable. The Subaru engine bay was never pretty to begin with, but with the aftermarket coolant lines and IAG AOS it's really a medusa. I spent most of my time struggling with tension clamps and trying to route all the hoses and cleanly as possible but there's only so much that can be done. @madrig's engine bay covers will be helpful.

Tomorrow I will install the boost solenoid, P/S, and A/C brackets. Is the end actually in sight?

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