bergs Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Still dealing with my suspension woes. Rear toe adjustments haven't been looked at yet as I've been trying to work the front wheel bearing out of the steering knuckle. As of yesterday, I gave up but had an incredible stroke of luck when I asked a friend if he had any front wheel bearings kicking around. Turns out he had two brand new ones and he donated one to the cause. New dust shield will arrive tomorrow. I had also ordered a pair of Mevotech dogbones and was surprised to see the gusseting they used compared to the OEM's stamped only. I wish I had the extra cake to go adjustable but I need to distribute the funds evenly across all rolling assets as my business has been affected by our current situation and income isn't as gratuitous as it once was. The evidence that this poor car of mine was handled by savages in its former life is almost astounding at this point! A sample of that.....Check out the sweet drill job on the steering knuckle, which is but a glimpse into the surprises I've uncovered since my ownership. Pics are: 1) Nice drill job! 2) Bent LR dogbone 3) Mevotech dogbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 A hole is a hole! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagwagon Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Yes, a piece of 2X4 comes in handy every now and then. There are DIY's in that forum for replacing the hubs. Which hub is the issue ? I started a front wheel bearing 2020 thread the other day about which front hubs work well, in this forum/ It was the front driver side hub. I think that axle was rebooted recently (before I bought the car) but I believe the hub is original. I've watched some videos on the replacement and if I had air tools or good battery powered tools I would definitely tackle it myself. I am actually considering buying a compressor and some tools. Its always been a question of how much will I use it and how much would I save over paying somebody to do the work over a period of a couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincy05LGT Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) Started playing around with btssm tonight since I recently flashed a slightly hotter etune. Went for a few pulls and noticed I'm undershooting target boost by 1.5psi. Fuel trims look good so I *think* it's not an air leak. Maybe needs more WGDC? No pulled timing, but IDC is hitting 101% (oem injectors) and it's been pretty warm out. Guess I should probably think about doing injectors, already have a DW65c pump. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Edited May 28, 2020 by Cincy05LGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Thanks for the ideas and helping me work through this. Bulletproofed the TMIC yesterday, and visually checked all vac/boost lines. They all seemed secure. I pulled the MAF and cleaned it, cleaned the contacts, and looked for loose wires. It all seemed ok, but I ordered a replacement MAF anyway. I replaced the O2 sensor to resolve a P0171 (Bank 1 lean) in 2016 to no effect, but will consider it after I get the MAF replaced. I now see that I also replaced the MAF in 2016, and that did resolve my P0171. I think my MAF idle reading is around 4.0-ish g/s, but let me double check later. Don't have a way to look at or log fuel pressure, but I suppose that's next. EDIT: MAF @ idle in btssm is 3.97 to 4.08 g/s. Seems a little high, at least by FSM spec. I assume since all you have is a cat-back there's not been any tweaks made to your MAF scaling in your tune. A high airflow reading will lead to negative fuel trims at idle. Adding a means of logging fuel pressure was one of the best things I did when doing initial troubleshooting after my build. I assume you still have TGVs on your car? If so, you'll have to get some separate means of logging fuel pressure data, or use a mechanical gauge. I used to use a handheld oscilloscope to watch fuel pressure traces from an electronic sensor. Hokey, but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Started playing around with btssm tonight since I recently flashed a slightly hotter etune. Went for a few pulls and noticed I'm undershooting target boost by 1.5psi. Fuel trims look good so I *think* it's not an air leak. Maybe needs more WGDC? No pulled timing, but IDC is hitting 101% (oem injectors) and it's been pretty warm out. Guess I should probably think about doing injectors, already have a DW65c pump. Sent from my Pixel 2 using TapatalkIt's most likely from an IAT (or potentially ECT) WGDC compensation table or IAT boost compensation table somewhere. I wouldn't add any more wastegate, especially with such high IDC. Once the weather cools and you have an overboost situation you could potentially go lean due to injectors not being able to supply enough fuel. Bad juju. I'd talk with your tuner (or a tuner) first. If you're self tuned, take a datalog of RPM, Throttle, WGDC, Target boost, MRP, Boost Error, MAFV and IAT. Then see if your WGDC matches the throttle/RPM/WGDC table. If it's off, see if you can determine a percentage and then look at the IAT compensations for WGDC (or boost) as I believe they are in percentage form. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) So the last few days have ben eventful to say the least. For starters I removed the oem fuel rails in exchange for IAG variants. In the process I decided to send out the injectors for flow testing and cleaning after input from some of you here. The focus of this post will be exactly that. I've been running straight pump E85 for about three years now. The first few months I would do a tank of 91 octane every other fill up or so but the power and smoothness of E85 eventually won me over. At this point I would periodically add Lucas Oil E85 stabilizer and ran the Chevron injector cleaning solution at least twice a year. I had the injectors cleaned and flow tested previously three years ago, when I initially had the car built. I have the results at home for the testing three years ago. For now I'll share the latest results. Before Cleaning; Injector 1: 1029cc/min Pattern: Dripping Injector 2: 1187cc/min Pattern: Fair Injector 3: 788cc/min Pattern: Dripping Injector 4: 995cc/min Pattern: Dripping After Cleaning; Injector 1: 1250cc/min Pattern: Excellent Injector 2: 1251cc/min Pattern: Excellent Injector 3: 1249cc/min Pattern: Excellent Injector 4: 1250cc/min Pattern: Excellent Moral of the story; For those of you running pump E85 full time it is a good idea to send out your injectors for cleaning and fuel testing at least every other year. Edited May 28, 2020 by Gabo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) Seems a little high, at least by FSM spec. I assume since all you have is a cat-back there's not been any tweaks made to your MAF scaling in your tune. A high airflow reading will lead to negative fuel trims at idle. I don't have a tune, actually. I wanted to get one in 2016, but then I saw that I have some air/fuel problems I need to sort out, haha. Let me swap out the MAF this weekend and see if that helps anything. Adding a means of logging fuel pressure was one of the best things I did when doing initial troubleshooting after my build. I assume you still have TGVs on your car? If so, you'll have to get some separate means of logging fuel pressure data, or use a mechanical gauge. I used to use a handheld oscilloscope to watch fuel pressure traces from an electronic sensor. Hokey, but it works. I'll have to figure out the fuel pressure thing, though I have a few things I should try before I hit that part of the troubleshooting. I still have TGVs -- the engine and all breathing on the car is completely stock with the exception of a catback exhaust and a boost gauge. Speaking of boost gauge, I noticed something else today: off-throttle on the morning commute, the gauge was reading 16 in Hg vacuum. When I first start the car, I usually see something like 21-22 in Hg. Is it possible that I've got a leak that only appears when the car is hot? Or could it be indicative of something else? Or is that normal? Edited May 28, 2020 by JF1GG29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 I agree, it definitely leveled things out. There are 3/4" and 1" sized spacers available as well, but I thought those would be too much for my car. Looking at it now, I probably could have gone with 3/4" and made wheel gaps even.Here's how mine looks with ¾" spacers. Tein H-tecs springs, and KYB excel G struts that are 3 years old now! Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teranaut Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Dang..that beast is LOW. I dig it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Dang..that beast is LOW. I dig it.Thanx.. but it's really on 1½ tops. I can fit my entire fat hand on top of the tire between the body. Where the car sits is exactly what and how I wanted it. LOL, I got wicked lucky! Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Tein H-tecs springs, and KYB excel G struts that are 3 years old now! How do you feel about the ride quality on that set up? Would it be considered "dad car" friendly? There was a reply to my similar question a while back and the short answer seemed to be "don't shave the bump stops and it'll be fine". Curious to hear your thoughts since you have a few years on those... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadBod Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Made a questionable financial decision late last night. The facelift JDM bumper from my sedan is toast, hit by a garbage truck. So, I ordered a JDM SpecB bumper, grille, and lip. And found a set of Wangan axle backs. (Should also mention that the sedan is dead too. Second trans blew. Currently cannibalizing it for parts for my wagon.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Made a questionable financial decision late last night. The facelift JDM bumper from my sedan is toast, hit by a garbage truck. So, I ordered a JDM SpecB bumper, grille, and lip. And found a set of Wangan axle backs. (Should also mention that the sedan is dead too. Second trans blew. Currently cannibalizing it for parts for my wagon.) What service did you use? muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Seems a little high, at least by FSM spec. ... A high airflow reading will lead to negative fuel trims at idle. I did a little more looking around. FSM wants your MAF reading at idle, with no a/c or accessories on, to be between 2.0 and 5.0 g/s. I was poking around on some old threads and realized I had been cleaning my MAF wrong. Turns out the thing I was cleaning was the temperature sensor part of the MAF sensor assembly. I cleaned it, properly this time, and I'm now getting MAF at idle to be right around 3.5 g/s -- smack in the middle of range. Reset the ECU and went for a drive and fuel trims are looking a bit better: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 (edited) How do you feel about the ride quality on that set up? Would it be considered "dad car" friendly? There was a reply to my similar question a while back and the short answer seemed to be "don't shave the bump stops and it'll be fine". Curious to hear your thoughts since you have a few years on those... I've always been happy with my Excel G's. It started out as a winter setup but transitioned over to full time. I use Epic springs up front and stock springs in the back but after 50K+ the KYB's have been great. This is the softest setup you're going to find. I prefer to run the stock springs in the back rather than use spacers, which also helps with the ride quality. It sits a little higher in the back but gives the car a slight rake. Made a questionable financial decision late last night. The facelift JDM bumper from my sedan is toast, hit by a garbage truck. So, I ordered a JDM SpecB bumper, grille, and lip. And found a set of Wangan axle backs. (Should also mention that the sedan is dead too. Second trans blew. Currently cannibalizing it for parts for my wagon.) I may be interested in some odds and ends if you're parting out the whole car. Edited May 29, 2020 by Holla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Here's how mine looks with ¾" spacers. Tein H-tecs springs, and KYB excel G struts that are 3 years old now! Scotty Did raising the rear 3/4" affect your rear camber much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Received my Blitzen spoiler today. Won the auction on April 17 and then it was held at the post office in Japan for over a month due to COVID, total wait time about a month and a half. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 How do you feel about the ride quality on that set up? Would it be considered "dad car" friendly? There was a reply to my similar question a while back and the short answer seemed to be "don't shave the bump stops and it'll be fine". Curious to hear your thoughts since you have a few years on those...Total DD. I drive about 18-20k a year. As of now, the rears are showing their age, but not too terribly. With my kids in the back (6yo/11yo) the rears would rub on decent bumps hence the spacers. Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Did raising the rear 3/4" affect your rear camber much?I havent had the car on the rack as of yet. However with the spacers, the car is sitting where it was 3 years ago when everything was new.. the main reason like I told Bergs, was because of the kids and decent bumps. Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadBod Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 What service did you use? Got the parts from Global JDM Auto Parts . They're pallet shipping to DCA for me. No forklift, or residential charges. Now I just have to wait... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 I've always been happy with my Excel G's. It started out as a winter setup but transitioned over to full time. I use Epic springs up front and stock springs in the back but after 50K+ the KYB's have been great. Total DD. I drive about 18-20k a year. As of now, the rears are showing their age, but not too terribly. With my kids in the back (6yo/11yo) the rears would rub on decent bumps hence the spacers. Scotty Thank you for the insight, gents. I typically don't carry a bunch of weight in the car so I'm going to try the GR2/Htecs without spacers for now. In other news... I spent most of today buttoning up the suspension and managed to get both of the rear toe adjustments to move enough to where I was okay with getting the car back on the ground. A few things still need some attention but the list is very short...one of the rear toe flange nuts needs to be replaced, tighten the dogbones and get an alignment. No pics yet since my car is filthy from sitting on jackstands for the last couple weeks. I will say I really do like the initial ride height of the Teins and the GR2/ Htec combo felt pretty good for the 2 miles I drove the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 Has anyone tried Kirkland Signature 5w30 oil? Was looking for deals on Rotella T6 and stumbled upon Costco's oil.. Made by Warren Labs, which also makes Walmart and Amazon oil. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5283735/1 https://old.reddit.com/r/Costco/comments/e3smp0/kirkland_motor_oil_what_do_you_guys_think_pretty/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 Has anyone tried Kirkland Signature 5w30 oil? Was looking for deals on Rotella T6 and stumbled upon Costco's oil.. Oil is oil, you'll be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 https://giphy.com/gifs/fix-kN0iwaWxR6KIw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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