Sarang Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 This part number includes the gasket & thermostat 21210AA030. I put the STI thermostat in as well when I did my timing belt/water pump. I didn't datalog mine to for comparision but I am surprised that it made that much of a difference. The GT (at least 2012) used the 21200AAAA230 variation which initial opening is later but has the same full open temperature according to Perscitus http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4989095&postcount=14760 Interesting. Maybe my results have more to do with the radiator than the thermostat? I thought of this as cheap insurance for the heat. Any extra power I can (safely) get when it's hot out is nice too, but I am acutely aware that my car was not tested in the Phoenix summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 All those specs and part numbers are directly from Subaru, I just collated them for us. They are accurate as far as I could tell back then. The thermostat makes a big difference but for a full effect, yes, either new radiator and coolant flush AND/OR changes to the fan control modes in the ECU (easy if accessable by your t00ner and t00n solution). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Gave my battery terminals a long overdue cleaning and threw on the little Wangan SPL Voltage Stabilizer I've had sitting around. I doubt it'll do much, but I snagged it for cheap so I figured I'd try it. Looks neat in the engine bay too. The battery acid chewed throw the finish on my SPT battery tiedown, so I'll need to get a new one soon. Looking at possibly the Cusco tie down since I've got a fair bit of blue/Cusco bits in the bay already.Humble, since you live in Chicagoland and get fairly cold winters, if you intend to keep the 3.6R for a while, get a good AGM battery, skip the voltage stabilizer, install an ALT-S fuse voltage booster and a negative terminal kill switch to retain a good charge when parked overnight, over weekend or days at a time in winter. AGM and Alt-S fuse are best bang for the buck. H6s have the beefiest OE alternator, good grounds and decent lead wires so only the output V and battery specs are lacking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Humble, since you live in Chicagoland and get fairly cold winters, if you intend to keep the 3.6R for a while, get a good AGM battery, skip the voltage stabilizer, install an ALT-S fuse voltage booster and a negative terminal kill switch to retain a good charge when parked overnight, over weekend or days at a time in winter. AGM and Alt-S fuse are best bang for the buck. H6s have the beefiest OE alternator, good grounds and decent lead wires so only the output V and battery specs are lacking. A lot of that was complete alien speak to me lmao. I really need to learn more about that stuff, I will look into it. As for the battery itself, the dealership replaced the battery when I bought the car about 2 years ago, so I should be able to still get a few more years out of it, enough time to learn properly what I would want/need from a battery to swap to something else. I'm actually going out of the country for about 10 days in the beginning of May, which will be the longest the car has sat since I bought it. Is there anything I should do with the car to prep it to sit for that duration? Should I just tap a friend to come start it up every day or two? 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 I had to clear stupid snow off my 5th gen today... BOO!! Hey Humble Rumble, where are you going out of the country? We are leaving next Saturday for Mexico City for 9 days. It's supposed to be in the 80's there, which sounds awesome right about now due to all this snow in April. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 A lot of that was complete alien speak to me lmao. I really need to learn more about that stuff, I will look into it. As for the battery itself, the dealership replaced the battery when I bought the car about 2 years ago, so I should be able to still get a few more years out of it, enough time to learn properly what I would want/need from a battery to swap to something else. I'm actually going out of the country for about 10 days in the beginning of May, which will be the longest the car has sat since I bought it. Is there anything I should do with the car to prep it to sit for that duration? Should I just tap a friend to come start it up every day or two?Its very easy stuff. OE battery is meh beyond meh, but if its new stick with it for now and skip the Alt S fuse until you get an AGM battery. 10 days in May or anytime temps are above say 60F is no big deal. No need to start it, actually best not to. If anything, Id get a kill switch and istall it. Drive her until you leave, park, kill switch on. Come back, kill switch off, battery still fully charged up after 10-14 days. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=psdcmw_15719961_t1_B00099YOV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Heading to the UK! Got a friend out there were going to stay with. 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunzo Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Started audio system preparation works. Roof is completed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Changed the oil and installed the Mishimoto radiator and OEM STI lower temp thermostat today. Part #s: MMRAD-STI-08 21200AA072 Install of the rad was a bit of a pain. As a BBPeik mentioned when he wrote up his experience, I ended up grinding down a significant amount of the plastic fan support on the passengers side and one of the fan bolts. As it sits now everything clears but only just. I used a brass threaded cap from the hardware store to plug the extra hole that our cars do not use. Results: The car used to sit at 210-215 F in traffic, hanging out at ~200 in cruise, and occasionally getting down to ~190 if I coasted down an offramp. Now it hangs out at 185-190 in traffic, got up to 192 after a third and fourth gear pull, and stabilized at 188.4 even when I coasted down the offramp. I'm happy, hopefully this will help the ECU to be willing to keep the AC on next time its 127 out and I'm driving up that super long uphill section of the I-10 out by Coachella. (Last time I was seeing coolant temps up to 237 and the ECU turned off the AC at 222, not fun in the summer driving in to the setting sun...)Nice! I may do this eventually as well. Thought about getting slim rad fans anyways, so hopefully it would be as tight as fit vs the OEM rad fans. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Nice! I may do this eventually as well. Thought about getting slim rad fans anyways, so hopefully it would be as tight as fit vs the OEM rad fans. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk There's a sexy BLITZ radiator I've been looking at.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 There's a sexy BLITZ radiator I've been looking at.... nice, but how $$$exy is it? lol My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 nice, but how $$$exy is it? lol https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/52715 $307...plus shipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/52715 $307...plus shipping Honestly, I would just go with a Koyorad. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Honestly, I would just go with a Koyorad. true... but namebrand! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 First real wash & wax of the year and a much needed oil change. A little longer than my normal interval, but this weather wasn't cooperating. http://i.imgur.com/N99I1qZ.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy292000 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Wife mentioned there was a strange relatively quiet noise in the car that is new. Yesterday I played with it and noticed that it happens only when AC is on. Strangely you can't really hear it outside but only inside. Bought a mechanics stethoscope on Amazon yesterday, it arrived today. Took me a few minutes but I narrowed it down to the V-belt tensioner. Unfortunately, it was too late so I'll have to swing by the dealer on Monday and get it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Is it a squeak-like sound? I have an inconsistent squeak when my a/c compressor is engaged, I just assumed it was the a/c pulley... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy292000 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Is it a squeak-like sound? I have an inconsistent squeak when my a/c compressor is engaged, I just assumed it was the a/c pulley... It's not a squeak, it is more like a quiet thumping. It is not very consistent and you literally cannot hear a thing from the engine side (not yet, anyway). Had a difficult time to get it to reproduce, so I had my wife in the car, turning AC on/off, putting the car in drive / park and then it started happening. Once I touched the bolt of the V belt tensioner it was clear that this is the problem. Well, anyway, I know I need to replace this. Now, if something else is also going on... I guess we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Swapped over to my summer wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires on the Stinger. Good Lord it launches hard with some sticky rubber. Its a staggered setup with 255 35 19 in the rear on 8.5" wide wheels and 225 40 19 in the front on 8" wide wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Man, that's a sorry state of affairs, you swapping over to your summer setup before me. I was planning on doing that next weekend, although I may do it today if I run out of other stuff to do. The fact that we got more than twice as much snow last weekend than we've gotten all season has me a little leery of making the switch too soon. Also, for the tensioner replacement, you'll want an 8mm hex bit socket if you don't have one already. Works much better than a 6" extension with an 8mm socket on the end of a hex key, I'm sure. I just replaced the tensioner on my friend's '14 yesterday trying to figure out why the steering gets obnoxiously hard when the car is warm- the pulley had a fair amount of play in it, so I was hoping it was just belt slip, but with the amount of angry sounds coming from the pump, I'm thinking that may be it. No bubbles in the fluid, but it complains quite a bit under load, and I'm hearing some bearing noise from that region at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Make sure you aren't hearing the servos on the flappers clicking behind the dash. Tensioners are a common issue on Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) My car is still at the dealership but it's a nice day and I have some adhesive based projects I want to accomplish. Tempted to just go over there and work on my car in their lot lmao. Edit: redid the 3M tape on my window visors with the same stuff that's been holding on my rear diffuser piece successfully since last summer. The original tape on these didn't hold more than 6 months. Fixing to go slap these on again, miss having them. Edited April 22, 2018 by Humble Rumble 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadrick20 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Defi Boost and Oil pressure gauges installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Re-installed my window visors in the dealership parking lot Sunday afternoon. 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbutzer Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Not today, but I finally installed my new wheels on Saturday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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