jcaroth

If you use the signal converter posted above, you'll also need a way to convert the 12V DC power from the car to 5V (which is the USB standard voltage that the converter runs on). DC-DC converters are relatively cheap, and I agree you should tap into the same power feed you used for the camera itself.

You could put an aftermarket subwoofer in there. Before you spend any money, though, make sure the woofer you buy is designed to run "infinite baffle." Also a good idea to make sure it clears those black crossbars

Did this mod over the weekend. One of the best writeups I've ever seen - made the process a breeze! Thanks a ton. ...wish every mod was this easy...

Make sure the belt is tight.

Yep, sorry. Bought one from Enlight.

Looking to do a sound system upgrade, need that JDM double din setup. Lemme know if you are willing to part with it, thanks.

Oh no... I'd recommend doing an oil change and looking for metal flakes in the oil, because you need to figure out exactly how much got damaged when the last owner blew a turbo before unloading the car onto you. FWIW, I had P0011 last winter and it went away with a new OCV (I didn't bother swapping and checking for P0021, I just replaced both).

'08's do indeed have a filter on the banjo bolt under the turbo (this was the last major work I did on my car). Easiest way to get to it is by removing the inlet, as others have mentioned.

Finally got around to fixing the burst line about 2 weeks ago. Wasn't too hard, all things considered. I definitely recommend getting a good flaring tool, so you don't have to stop halfway through and get a ride to the store for a new one. Also be warned, the AutoZone tool I bought at first was hot garbage. NAPA had a better version, but none looked as nice as the inline-style tool others have recommended on this thread. For some reason I can't get my pics to upload ("Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing"), so I threw up an imgur album for anyone interested: https://imgur.com/gallery/SqZFj It looks like my line didn't blow at the two-way connector, but instead where the rubber coating was removed from the rear lines to connect them to the car. It would be a pretty simple thing to check for most anyone on this forum, so I'd suggest taking a peak next time you're under your car.

Thanks for documenting your process, it's a preview of coming attractions for me. Were you able to inspect the rear left line to verify that it hasn't rusted out like the right side, or are you just trusting that it should be fine because it's protected from the elements on top of the gas tank? I would also like to avoid dropping the tank if possible...

I believe the connections into the 2-way connector (part number 26534AA000) are metric. Also, it might be worth replacing that while you're in there, it's only about $12 from the dealer.

Did they replace both entire brake pipes or just splice in some new line to the connector inside the car?

I meant to say that if your car has been inspected under the first recall but NOT the second recall (so sometime between March 2013 and July 2014), you could still have them replace the brakelines under the second recall. My car was inspected in August 2013 and November 2014, so Subaru is unwilling to do anything more for me. Also, yes. Carfax should display this info. I also called up the dealer who did all the work on the car before I bought it and they sent over their entire service history for the vehicle. It confirmed that my car was inspected and sprayed twice, but nothing was ever replaced.

Yeah, this is the route I plan to go if I keep the car. It's pretty simple for the center brake pipe, but the rear pipe that runs over the gas tank might not have enough room to get in there and splice anything. I'll have to confirm which pipes are leaking before anything else, but that's going to wait until I sort out my new transmission problem.

Yeah, I've done a lot of research and there are actually two separate recalls for this problem on the 4th gens: March 2013 - NHTSA Recall #13V110 (Subaru Recall ID WQG-43) for Brake Line Corrosion July 2014 - NHTSA Recall #14V311 (Subaru Recall ID WQK-47) for Brake Line Corrosion, superseding Recall WQG-43 and requiring re-inspection of affected cars If your car was inspected before July 2014, you should be eligible for service under the later recall. Unfortunately, this doesn't apply to me. It's also worth noting that Subaru updated and released a THIRD recall (WQQ-52) in late December 2014 with additional inspection requirements on all of the Impreza and Forester model brake lines. Talk about a known problem... See link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCMN-14V830-9508.pdf Unfortunately for me, Subaru still doesn't consider themselves liable to fix anything at this point. Really turns me off from an otherwise great car and brand.

Update: Subaru of America is still unwilling to negotiate beyond giving me a discount on a new car. Even then, the maximum they will offer is only $750. Looks like a claim with the NHTSA is my only remaining option besides fixing this thing myself. I wasn't about to pay $3000+ for the dealer to replace everything, so I had to give the loaner back and have my car towed home. In other news, I had trouble getting my car out of the service lot because it didn't want to move at all. As it so happens, the tow truck used for the trip to the dealership 3 weeks ago was not a flatbed... guess whose center diff and transmission are now probably wrecked? For anyone who might be wondering, when the tow driver tells you not to worry because he "disabled the AWD just like he's done on every Subaru for over 6 years," he is lying.

Man I laughed out loud when I read that for the first time. It's ridiculous what they want to charge me for this.

I brought it to Cityside Subaru in Belmont, MA. You should see the rest of their quote for things they say are wrong with this car... it's absurd:

I have called SOA and opened up a case with them and everything. They claim that because the car went in for the recall and the dealership performed the procedure correctly (which amounted to just inspecting, punch-testing, and spraying with anti-corrosion stuff), they are no longer liable for "wear and tear" to the brake lines. I've spoken with probably 4 different people at SOA, and none of them are willing to negotiate. At this point, I'm considering trying to find a garage to rent for a month or two so I can work on it after work (don't have a garage of my own, unfortunately). I found this thread which seems to go into great detail on this problem: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?15020-Broken-brake-line-AND-HOW-TO-FIX-IT-!!

About a month ago I lost all pressure in my brakes. They suddenly had way too much travel, felt very soft, and my car had almost no stopping power. Luckily, this happened on my street so I was able to limp it back to my house safely. Upon inspection I discovered that the master cylinder was empty. I jacked the car up, pumped the brakes and looked for leaks. Lo and behold, there was brake fluid dripping from the gas tank area near the rear passenger wheel well. No other leaks at any of the calipers, pistons, or flex brake lines. I did some research and discovered that my problem was part of a recall. Specifically, NHTSA Recall #14V311000, for "Brake Lines may Fail due to Corrosion." Called up my insurance company and had them tow my car to the dealership to have it fixed. This was about 2 weeks ago. It turns out that my car had been previously inspected in 2014 under this recall. Nothing was replaced or fixed, but a punch test and inspection were performed and some anti-corrosion wax applied to the brake lines. This was before I owned the car. However, because the car has already been inspected under this recall, the dealer is refusing to fix the issue now unless I pay them $3000. They say they need to replace both the rear and center brake pipes, 2 way connector, and assorted fittings. They claim it's a 20 hour job because they have to "take half the car apart." Interestingly, the recall paperwork instructs dealers to claim only 6.8 hours for brake pipe inspection, replacement, and rustproofing. I feel like I'm being scammed here. I've already opened a case file with Subaru of America, but the most they're willing to do at the moment is give me a discount of $500 on a new car. No financial assistance, no coverage, no help at all because of "the year [2008] and mileage [93k] of my vehicle." What should I do?