RottenJeeves Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 So you guys are saying that the fix is to flush the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 So you guys are saying that the fix is to flush the system? Flushing the system is most effective when the failed turbo is 1st replaced or shortly after to limit the damage of the metal in the engine. Hopefully the driver of the car with the blown turbo also didn't drive all that far either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 She is bone stock right now but I would like to do some light performance mods Merc6 said it first.. "depending on what your budget is" I'll spare you any further fear mongering in regards to the new turbo. It isn't without good reason to consider, but once we start getting 5thgen 2.5i owners weighing in on the subject it might be worth getting back to the original question ; ) some consider stage 1 as a decent increase in power. I say it's "step 1" in getting away from the stock tune. There isn't really a tangible increase in performance. With an accessport and catless downpipe, you're getting into "stage 2 on a budget" which will yield a mountain of torque in the midrange on your 5EAT. Horsepower doesn't increase as much with the auto on this beginner setup(compared to the manual transmission). You should have a close look at the turbo inlet connection too, the clamp can rip through and tear the tube causing a leak at the turbo. There are countless other things to consider but since you're just starting out I think it helps to have some perspective on what you can expect. You need a catless up-pipe too, those are cheap and plentiful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 once we start getting 5thgen 2.5i owners weighing in on the subject it might be worth getting back to the original question ; ) lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 LGT Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 A couple of things I've seen posted in here that do not apply to the 2008 model year: - there are no banjo filters to remove like 2005-2006 - the daytime running lights are the highbeams, so the problems the 2005-2007s had with using the lowbeams for DRLs and burning them out does not apply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 A couple of things I've seen posted in here that do not apply to the 2008 model year: - there are no banjo filters to remove like 2005-2006 - the daytime running lights are the highbeams, so the problems the 2005-2007s had with using the lowbeams for DRLs and burning them out does not apply Yes, there are banjo filters in all of the 4th gen LGT model years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 A couple of things I've seen posted in here that do not apply to the 2008 model year: - there are no banjo filters to remove like 2005-2006 - the daytime running lights are the highbeams, so the problems the 2005-2007s had with using the lowbeams for DRLs and burning them out does not apply OP is 2005.. This pic is from mspranks' turbo swap walk-through, the turbo feed (filtered banjo) bolt is vertical on your 2008 and outlined in red (right beneath the inlet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 A couple of things I've seen posted in here that do not apply to the 2008 model year: - there are no banjo filters to remove like 2005-2006 - the daytime running lights are the highbeams, so the problems the 2005-2007s had with using the lowbeams for DRLs and burning them out does not apply That's odd. I had the filtered banjo bolt on the top of the head with my 08. I didn't bother with the AVCS bolt since the one from the block was spotless. I'm also pretty sure, that my DRLs are not the highbeams... SC 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 I'm also pretty sure, that my DRLs are not the highbeams... SC They are, the DRL's use the highbeam bulbs at low power. Check and see for yourself, they're the inner lamps. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 My 09 uses the high beams for DRL's. I know this because I recently bought some Morimoto 2strokes not realizing they were for high beams and not low beams. After the install when my lights were off, my DRL's were HELLA bright. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 They are, the DRL's use the highbeam bulbs at low power. Check and see for yourself, they're the inner lamps. Thanks! I stand corrected! SC 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenJeeves Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 Well the car hasn't blown up yet. I'm sure I will know soon enough if there is going to be failure. Not sure how long I should wait before I start modding as I would hate to purchase parts for a broken Lgt. I am drooling with anticipation. Side question: Will going catless downpipe through a CEL or is that were the tune comes in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Side question: Will going catless downpipe through a CEL or is that were the tune comes in? There is an EGT sensor in the catted UP that needs to be deleted when you go to the catless. You can avoid a CEL there by doing a resistor mod. A tune will take care of that CEL as well (without the resistor mod), as far as I'm aware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenJeeves Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 There is an EGT sensor in the catted UP that needs to be deleted when you go to the catless. You can avoid a CEL there by doing a resistor mod. A tune will take care of that CEL as well (without the resistor mod), as far as I'm aware. Do you know if something like the Cobb will take care of that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 I don't think the OTS tunes disable CELs, but if you can tune yourself or have your tuner do it, you can disable CELs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clusk_GTWagon Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Not sure how long I should wait before I start modding as I would hate to purchase parts for a broken Lgt. I am drooling with anticipation. Save yourself a headache and wait until you know the basic things are fine with the car...I spent some hefty $ on mods and am paying for it dearly..What we all thought was a boost leak (hole in turbo inlet.) turned into not only a leak, but the compressor in my turbo going bad as well..so now I'm waiting for a turbo to arrive. Long story short, save yourself some money and headache and just wait until you know for sure you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Unless the V2 and V3 had the abilities to disable CELs 1 by 1, no. Resistor is how my tuner disabled my CEL when I went from APV1 to Open Source. I also 2nd just make sure the car is fine before going Tax Season on it. We aren't trying to scare everyone who comes into town like it's a Scooby Doo mystery, just caution you to not fall into the same issues we have. I replaced my turbo and put about 9000 or so miles on my car before the signs of engine damage was near. I was an idiot tho and was in the process of being AWOL to my unit so instead of calling for a tow I drove it 15 miles home on a busted turbo and left it there. I just made it to Enterprise before they closed and made it back to base 2 states away in time. When I was searching the CELs, Nasioc pretty much said it was 1 of 3 things. Change oil, change OCVs or change engine. I did the 1st 2 and it didn't fix the cels and then the engine eventually started knocking. The Used Oil Analysis is cheap insurance and don't ever take short cuts is the lesson learned. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenJeeves Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 So say I use the test and it comes back positive. Then what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 If you get a used oil analysis and it comes back clean, then the internals of your motor are most likely sound, and you should feel "safer" modifying the vehicle. I would still complete other preventative measures like checking the turbo for shaft play, doing a boost leak test, removing banjo bolt filters, reinforcing your TMIC with the barman bean kit, zip tie your vacuum lines especially the blue-T lines. New up pipe. Better yet, just post the UOA on here, and the forum will provide feedback. If the test comes back and you have high iron content or something else indicating engine failure, then you'll need to address that before spending money on anything else. Indicators like that could indicate that the motor oil you are using is inadequate, or the motor itself is bad. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 modding is prudence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 If you get a used oil analysis and it comes back clean, then the internals of your motor are most likely sound, and you should feel "safer" modifying the vehicle. I would still complete other preventative measures like checking the turbo for shaft play, doing a boost leak test, removing banjo bolt filters, reinforcing your TMIC with the barman bean kit, zip tie your vacuum lines especially the blue-T lines. New up pipe. Better yet, just post the UOA on here, and the forum will provide feedback. If the test comes back and you have high iron content or something else indicating engine failure, then you'll need to address that before spending money on anything else. Indicators like that could indicate that the motor oil you are using is inadequate, or the motor itself is bad. I have the Turkeylord one here somewhere. I can't remember how many times I had to pull the Perrin TIMC to get one of those lines back on. I swear it went back on a different way each time. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 I have the Turkeylord one here somewhere. I can't remember how many times I had to pull the Perrin TIMC to get one of those lines back on. I swear it went back on a different way each time. I went with the Turkey Lord barbed T as well. No regrets, and the price was right. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 I went with the Turkey Lord barbed T as well. No regrets, and the price was right. Wut?? I tried looking that up several ways and got exactly what would be expected - not car parts. 05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 LOL. Reminds me of when I was in middle school and I was doing research online on "black holes." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Wut?? I tried looking that up several ways and got exactly what would be expected - not car parts. Take a look at this thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-blue-tee-replacement-218783.html?t=218783&highlight=barbed Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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