Merc6 Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Drained the oil today, thick and black as it's been sitting almost a month, but no shavings of metal in what drained out. Ran it through a paint strainer like Jmp suggested and nothing was caught. A new oil cooler is on the way and I plan to drop the oil pan still because I'll just feel better having visually inspected it vs swabbing it. Dropping the oil pan, is cheaper than pulling the engine. Perfect time to inspect and or replace the pick up tube. Reminds me I need to also look for one of those too. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Drained the oil today, thick and black as it's been sitting almost a month, but no shavings of metal in what drained out. Ran it through a paint strainer like Jmp suggested and nothing was caught. A new oil cooler is on the way and I plan to drop the oil pan still because I'll just feel better having visually inspected it vs swabbing it. Any result of pulling a magnet through the drained oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Any result of pulling a magnet through the drained oil? None! Which surprises, pleases, and worries me. I would have expected to find SOMEthing, but if it's truly not full of metal bits I will count it as a blessing and not question it further. Today I got the plastic cover off the underside so I can drop the oil pan; tomorrow the wobble extensions/adapters I ordered should arrive so I can get to all the bolts to drop the pan, which will probably happen Monday evening. I didn't have a big enough socket to take off the oil cooler so I picked that up on the way out to dinner tonight with my wife, so the oil cooler will be coming off Monday also. New oil cooler and gasket are on the way also. When it comes time to put the oil pan back on, what is everyone's thoughts on using this gasket maker: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2490&pictureid=11453 I've never used gasket maker before and want to make sure I'm not using something that will require me to redo it in a month. If it's wrong, I'll just go exchange it for whatever you guys recommend before I open it Thanks again to everyone for the feedback on this project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Permatex is good stuff. What worries me is your buying tools one at a time, you don't have a decent set of tools ? Is there a Harbor Fright store near you ? Most of my tools are from Sears, Craftsman. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Wobbler and giant socket for the oil cooler aren't exactly common tools. There is a line of permatex called "The Right Stuff" that comes in a pressurized can, like cheeze whiz. One can is enough to do both heads, valve cover gaskets and the oil pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Harbor Fright will have a set of big large sockets for around $20 or so. Get the deep set. The 24mm socket is in that set. If your going to be working on cars for the rest of your life...it's nice to have a good set of tools. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Permatex is good stuff. What worries me is your buying tools one at a time, you don't have a decent set of tools ? Is there a Harbor Fright store near you ? Most of my tools are from Sears, Craftsman. I've got a full set of sockets and ratchets, but the sizes stop at 22mm in the set I got years ago, and the oil cooler connector is 24mm; so it's more like I'm filling in the gaps now. Harbor Freight is where I got my jack, jack stands, shop crane, engine stand, impact driver, etc, so I'm familiar with them just didn't find out about them when I first started buying tools years ago is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Wobbler and giant socket for the oil cooler aren't exactly common tools. There is a line of permatex called "The Right Stuff" that comes in a pressurized can, like cheeze whiz. One can is enough to do both heads, valve cover gaskets and the oil pan. I may go back to the store and see if they have the pressurized stuff and exchange if they do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 I feel better now, thanks. My story is, I'm 61y/o been working on cars since 16y/o. Having had a race car and the all the stuff that came with that, between my son and I there isn't much we don't have. I like the tube stuff, just old school. It may be easier to control how fast it comes out. Let the sealant tack up for a few minutes before you install the pan. If I recall your going to want to practice installing the pan before you put the sealant on, I recall it's not simple. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 I'm 32 and have been working on cars since maybe five years ago when funds started getting tight so I wanted to save money. Also when I decided to pursue my degree so I can get a better paying job! My dad has been working on cars his entire life so he was previously my go-to for car help, but eventually he won't be around to help anymore so I want to learn this stuff better for myself. Also my dad's repairs sometimes are done with 'whats on hand' as opposed to what's proper, and I want this car to last me well beyond graduation so I want it done proper. Thanks for the heads up on the pan install practice; I don't fancy having to clean off and reapply gasket maker repeatedly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Don't discount that "what's on hand" thinking. I have acquired a lot of items over the years. Those things come in handy from time to time. You have the right mind set, working on your car will help you save money in the long run and help keep it alive for many years. Another thing I taught my son early on, "learn from the mistakes of others". We're here to help. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 When it comes time to put the oil pan back on, what is everyone's thoughts on using this gasket maker: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2490&pictureid=11453 I've never used gasket maker before and want to make sure I'm not using something that will require me to redo it in a month. If it's wrong, I'll just go exchange it for whatever you guys recommend before I open it Thanks again to everyone for the feedback on this project! That gasket maker is great as long as you can spare the time to cure it after installation. Another really good one is permatex "the right stuff". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 That gasket maker is great as long as you can spare the time to cure it after installation. Another really good one is permatex "the right stuff". seanyb505 mentioned that too; I'll see if they have it in stock after I get out of work Monday and take a look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Man I wish mine was as easy a just a turbo but I too decided to move up in my job just so I would have enough breathing room.. having a GF + the LGT is no easy task that's for sure! It would be awesome to have the car done before my birthday (Nov 27th) but that's going to be pretty tight as I'm trying to propose to her in Dec. The $1k a week in the coming months is going to be a good help for sure lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 So haven't gotten the pan pulled yet; working outside so rain has kept me from making progress, plus work. Got the studs for the turbo to conect to the downpipe; thanks to Jmp for the part number! As far as when the new turbo goes in, what should I be doing for prepping the turbo, oil for breaking it in, and proper way to break it in? Also, recommend anything like loctite for the studs when I put them in the turbo? Hoping to pull pan tomorrow if the rain quits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 IIRC, pulling the fuse for fuel pump and let the car pump oil through it was part of the process. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Just hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank it.. It's very easy to tell when the oil has made it's way around the block as the cranking speed gets faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 Also reading other threads here, looks like Rotella t6 5w40 is the way to go for oil in our turbo Subarus. I've been using Valvoline 5w30 Full Synthetic; is it okay to do a straight switch over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 In process of trying to pull of oil pan, I removed the motor mount nuts and washers and began jacking the engine up. During the process the passenger side of the engine shifted forward about a half centimeter when it came free of the motor mount hole. I immediately stopped when this happened and tried lowering the engine, but the passenger side motor mount stud no longer slips back into the hole; its off center so it wont drop back through. The drivers side came back through fine so I can rebolt that. I cant seem to get the engine to shift back to the correct position so now I have some questions: A) What harm could occur if I swab the pan like JmP said earlier and it comes back clean, I finish reassembling everything without taking the pan off, and I drive very conservatively to my mechanic to have them help me get the stud back through the mount hole (about a 30 minute drive at normal speeds, probably looking at 40 if I go slow) B) Any tips on how to get the engine to shift back to its original position so I can reattach the mount myself? You should know that I cannot move the vehicle into a garage or on to pavement; it is currently on jack stands supported on wood in the dirt (wood to keep the stands from sinking into the ground). I had my jack on a piece of smooth plywood to jack up the motor, and the wheels caught so that instead of sliding forward under the car when I pulled the handle, it caused the engine to pull the half centimeter towards me, which is what started all this. If it is extremely unwise to drive to mechanic with one motor mount off and I cannot get it back in myself, I will reassemble everything and call a wrecker to haul it to the mechanic to get the motor mount taken care of, but I would rather save $100 for calling the truck out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 I've had that happen before you kinda have to show the motor whos boss to get it to go back in the hole.. Do you still have the pitch stop bolted up? With it still bolted to the tranny it makes moving the motor around a bit harder since it's not going to want to move left or right. Because I can't see I suspect you have to push the motor back as if like your trying to push it backwards and down to get the stud back in the slot.. That part is always a pain when you put the motor back in and that's not including trying to line up the splines on the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 I've had that happen before you kinda have to show the motor whos boss to get it to go back in the hole.. Do you still have the pitch stop bolted up? With it still bolted to the tranny it makes moving the motor around a bit harder since it's not going to want to move left or right. Because I can't see I suspect you have to push the motor back as if like your trying to push it backwards and down to get the stud back in the slot.. That part is always a pain when you put the motor back in and that's not including trying to line up the splines on the transmission. Considering I have never done a motor pull before and have no idea what a pitch stop is; probably! I'll look into undoing that when I tackle it again on Wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 Replaced oil cooler today. The connector bolt/nut/ tube was loose enough I could take it off with my fingers which could explain the oil leak I had. Working on swapping over coolant tubes from the oil turbo to the new right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faralcane Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 Finished transferring everything to the new turbo, swabbed pan and it came back clean. At this point I'm ready to put the new turbo on, but I want to get the motor mount back in place first. I fought it for about 45 minutes to no avail this evening. Unless anyone has any other tips for shifting it back to drop I to place I'll see if my dad can come over some evening in the next few days to help me. Also this forum is addicting: I've now bought the JDM radio/AC controls panel with the double din slot, wires from svcdx and a new stereo! So once this project is done I'll be doing that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Just don't give up. Persistence and you'll learn more and more and begin to understand various idiosyncracies and the order of assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Finished transferring everything to the new turbo, swabbed pan and it came back clean. At this point I'm ready to put the new turbo on, but I want to get the motor mount back in place first. I fought it for about 45 minutes to no avail this evening. Unless anyone has any other tips for shifting it back to drop I to place I'll see if my dad can come over some evening in the next few days to help me. Also this forum is addicting: I've now bought the JDM radio/AC controls panel with the double din slot, wires from svcdx and a new stereo! So once this project is done I'll be doing that! You will love the JDM radio setup it makes the car look so much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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