2005 Legacy GT - Replace turbo or get new car?

[faralcane]

So after sitting a couple weeks till I had time to replace one of my wheel bearings, I got the bearing replaced last night and now my turbo seems to have seized. 206,000 miles on the car; I love the car but I can't afford to pay a shop to replace the turbo.

 

I was wondering what the difficulty is in replacing the turbo myself, as well as the cheapest option? OEM is fine for me; I don't need anything aftermarket for performance, just looking to not put the car out to pasture just yet.

 

Any pointers to guides, cheap parts, or general advice appreciated! If it isn't something I can do myself I'll sadly have to get a cheap used car that probably wouldn't be a Subaru (a tragedy in my opinion, but funds are tight right now).

[__raj]

If you can find a used turbo and DIY go for it. 200k LGTs are not budget friendly cars.

[MaStaMooN]

Plenty of stock, lower mileage than your car, turbos come up for sale here often. Could also have your turbo rebuilt by JMP for like half the price of a new one.

 

Not sure how you can't afford to get a car fixed but can afford a new car. I understand not wanting to repair a car on its way out or when it costs more than the car is worth. But for around 500 bucks or less a new turbo can be had, and if you can install it, that should get you back on the road.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[BarManBean]

Not sure how you can't afford to get a car fixed but can afford a new car.

 

Banks will generally give you money to finance the purchase of a new/used car, but won't finance expensive repairs on a used vehicle.

[faralcane]

Not sure how you can't afford to get a car fixed but can afford a new car. I understand not wanting to repair a car on its way out or when it costs more than the car is worth. But for around 500 bucks or less a new turbo can be had, and if you can install it, that should get you back on the road.

 

If it's not something I can do with a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, buying the additional tools would steer me toward buying a cheap used car (there's a couple Honda's for sale near me for $1,500). I could get approved for a loan for a more expensive car if necessary, but adding more to my long term monthly bills is a last resort (loan usually comes with full coverage insurance, further increasing the cost). But if I can snag a turbo for $500 or less and can do the repair myself, that is definitely preferred.

 

General question to everyone: thoughts on buying a new/rebuilt turbo on eBay? I'm seeing a lot in the $250-$350 range; should I be making sure they include anything specific? I'll look on the forums here too, but I have a PayPal Credit account that could ease the sting over a couple of months if I bought that way.

[Max Capacity]

We normally don't recommend ebay for anything, as specially turbo's.

 

We go to JmP6889928, PM him and see what he can do for you.

 

If you have a floor jack and stands you can drop the down pipe and replace the turbo. There are a few other things you should do while your there.

 

Remove the banjo filter form the back of the passenger side head.

 

replace the oil return hose from the turbo

 

You'll need to remove the tmic, which can be a pita if the throttle body comes off, clocking it is a PITA.

[seanyb505]

I know you're wanting to be handy and save some money by learning along the way. The unfortunate truth is this turbo will not be the last major repair needed for this car.

 

I vote buy a cheap car (which will still need repairs, just not as costly). As you've learned once, an 11-12 year old turbo car with over 206k miles will turn to paper weight rather quickly. I am in the exact same boat.

 

In my experience cheap transportation can run with duct tape, hopes and dreams. Not so with these. Unfortunately, "doing things the right way" is often more important than the quick way or the cheap way. The Legacy defines the old adage,

 

"Fast, reliable, and cheap - pick two"

 

I'm not talking 10 second need moar NOS fast, I'm talking it runs at all, and is mildly quick for a station wagon in stock form.

 

From what I've seen, these cars are starting to be more and more affordable, but not quite affordable to own and operate. I think they're the entry point to "If you can just afford to buy a used exotic car, you cannot afford to own and repair the used exotic car."

 

AMG Mercedes are crazy cheap now compared to when new. Well that $15,000 purchase still has the maintenance of a $90,000 car. Pretty exaggerated when compared to the Legacy, but they just aren't going to make financial sense the older they get and the more miles they have.

[Max Capacity]

Hey my wagon is reliable, fast and I'm only a little way into paying for it the third time.

 

OP, I bought the car new.

 

If you can afford the car and can do routine maintenance yourself these things are great.

 

read my click here link to give you an idea...

[Merc6]

I know you're wanting to be handy and save some money by learning along the way. The unfortunate truth is this turbo will not be the last major repair needed for this car.

 

I vote buy a cheap car (which will still need repairs, just not as costly). As you've learned once, an 11-12 year old turbo car with over 206k miles will turn to paper weight rather quickly. I am in the exact same boat.

 

In my experience cheap transportation can run with duct tape, hopes and dreams. Not so with these. Unfortunately, "doing things the right way" is often more important than the quick way or the cheap way. The Legacy defines the old adage,

 

"Fast, reliable, and cheap - pick two"

 

I'm not talking 10 second need moar NOS fast, I'm talking it runs at all, and is mildly quick for a station wagon in stock form.

 

From what I've seen, these cars are starting to be more and more affordable, but not quite affordable to own and operate. I think they're the entry point to "If you can just afford to buy a used exotic car, you cannot afford to own and repair the used exotic car."

 

AMG Mercedes are crazy cheap now compared to when new. Well that $15,000 purchase still has the maintenance of a $90,000 car. Pretty exaggerated when compared to the Legacy, but they just aren't going to make financial sense the older they get and the more miles they have.

 

08 E550 are going for what low miles 09 Spec B are going for. Let the airmatic fail, $10K. The switch that keeps telling you the hood/ trunk is open, Not as bad but still not pretty.

 

Back on topic, I too have a pretty driveway gnome I'm working on.

[faralcane]

We normally don't recommend ebay for anything, as specially turbo's.

 

We go to JmP6889928, PM him and see what he can do for you.

 

If you have a floor jack and stands you can drop the down pipe and replace the turbo. There are a few other things you should do while your there.

 

Remove the banjo filter form the back of the passenger side head.

 

replace the oil return hose from the turbo

 

You'll need to remove the tmic, which can be a pita if the throttle body comes off, clocking it is a PITA.

 

Thank you, I will reach out to him shortly. I have access to a floor jack and stands, and if he has a turbo for under $500 I will try to replace the turbo myself.I read about the banjo filters after this issue cropped up; my guess is that's what ultimately killed it due to the tiny filters they thought were a good idea for oil plus living in a rural area with regular dirt/dusty road driving. Appreciate the tip on the oil return hose.

 

If I can't manage the repair myself, I think my local mechanic would be willing to do a trade on the vehicle; he has an Audi for sale for $1,800, and I bet he would trade so he could resell my Subaru after doing the repairs himself. Just hate to give it up if I don't have to

 

One or two repairs a year is normally fine for me, plus oil changes, belts, pads, plugs, etc. This one just kinda caught me at a financial squeeze; my work owes me about $2k in back pay that they keep telling me they are going to pay, but they've missed two dates now they promised me I would have it so... yeah.

[seanyb505]

It sounds like once you get on solid ground with this car you'll have tons of fun.

 

I'd also hesitate on an $1,800 Audi. I can't imagine that will treat you any better.

[faralcane]

It sounds like once you get on solid ground with this car you'll have tons of fun.

 

I'd also hesitate on an $1,800 Audi. I can't imagine that will treat you any better.

 

I can definitely see that being the case; but if it came right down to it, being able to trade a non running car for a running car would get me down the financial road a bit. I have a 97 Chevy Tahoe I'm getting around in currently that's in okay condition mechanically (far from pretty!), so I'm not in a HUGE rush to fix the car, but the Tahoe is a guzzler and I'd rather not push my luck with it; it's the only vehicle we have that can pull trailer, and I already hit a downed tree at 50 mph in it in a thunderstorm at night a couple months back and it miraculously survived ($100 to replace a snapped brace underneath), so I try not to drive it more than I have to. It's basically our emergency back up vehicle/large load getter; was $1000 when we bought it and it slowly leaks everything but brake fluid (it did that too but we replaced a line).

[faralcane]

So I figured we would see how bad the damage is (and everyone loves pictures!)

 

The heart of the beast!

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2490&pictureid=11451

 

Oh, that isn't so bad

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2490&pictureid=11449

 

Oh...

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2490&pictureid=11450

 

So the shaft has snapped, so that's lovely. Monday the oil will be coming out and I will try to drop the oil pan to inspect for metal shavings/chunks. If (and this isn't my typical luck) the oil isn't full of metal bits I will bolt on a new turbo and see how I fair. Otherwise I will start saving for a new engine. I might buy a beater to get around in in the meantime; I just love this car too much to let it go, and I've decided I'm okay with it becoming a project to work on over the next year if I have to (I say year because full time work plus pursuing bachelor's degree means I have very little free time to actually work on it).

[ehsnils]

If no shavings are found also add a magnetic oil plug.

 

Use a magnet to search the drained oil too.

[faralcane]

If no shavings are found also add a magnetic oil plug.

 

Use a magnet to search the drained oil too.

 

I just got a 150lb retrieval magnet on a whim when I ordered some other tools, so that's convenient! I'll definitely look into the oil plug if there are no shavings. Thanks!

[JmP6889928]

I don't believe the shaft is broken. The nut is missing from the shaft. Turn the turbine and see if the shaft turns inside the compressor wheel. Obviously the wheel has hit the compressor housing but the center bearing support housing may still be usable.

Before dropping the pan, drain the oil through a paint strainer or a piece of pantyhose and look for flakes/chunks/shavings. Once drained, tape a Qtip to a straightened piece of coat hanger and swab around the bottom of the oil pan and see if it's clean or has metallic paste. If clean, put a turbo on it and do a 4 flush on it. If paste, drop the pan.

[faralcane]

I don't believe the shaft is broken. The nut is missing from the shaft. Turn the turbine and see if the shaft turns inside the compressor wheel. Obviously the wheel has hit the compressor housing but the center bearing support housing may still be usable.

Before dropping the pan, drain the oil through a paint strainer or a piece of pantyhose and look for flakes/chunks/shavings. Once drained, tape a Qtip to a straightened piece of coat hanger and swab around the bottom of the oil pan and see if it's clean or has metallic paste. If clean, put a turbo on it and do a 4 flush on it. If paste, drop the pan.

 

I just checked it now; sadly that is not the case. The shaft does not move when I spin the turbine.

[ehsnils]

I don't believe the shaft is broken. The nut is missing from the shaft. Turn the turbine and see if the shaft turns inside the compressor wheel. Obviously the wheel has hit the compressor housing but the center bearing support housing may still be usable.

Before dropping the pan, drain the oil through a paint strainer or a piece of pantyhose and look for flakes/chunks/shavings. Once drained, tape a Qtip to a straightened piece of coat hanger and swab around the bottom of the oil pan and see if it's clean or has metallic paste. If clean, put a turbo on it and do a 4 flush on it. If paste, drop the pan.

Good observation that the nut was missing - find that nut or you will be in trouble.

 

Also check the intake parts for metal shavings, including intercooler. A flush of the intercooler and other intake parts is a good idea. Use gasoline for at least initial flushing since there's often some oil residue that anything can stick to.

[faralcane]

Good observation that the nut was missing - find that nut or you will be in trouble.

 

Also check the intake parts for metal shavings, including intercooler. A flush of the intercooler and other intake parts is a good idea. Use gasoline for at least initial flushing since there's often some oil residue that anything can stick to.

 

I didn't even think of that. Hopefully the intercooler caught the nut; I wasn't super careful when putting it aside though, so if it fell out when I took it off I may never know.

[Max Capacity]

Make a list of things you want to do and have a plan and a place to put all the parts removed. Take the intake system off as a unit if you go that far.

 

My click here link has good pictures about post 26 I think it was.

[faralcane]

Make a list of things you want to do and have a plan and a place to put all the parts removed. Take the intake system off as a unit if you go that far.

 

My click here link has good pictures about post 26 I think it was.

 

I scrolled through your click here before and found it interesting and I think you mean 36, not 26

 

If I end up pulling the whole engine I'll definitely plan as you mentioned; I'm praying not to have to go that far but with the shaft in the turbo broken I'm ready to accept it as reality; cuz what are the chances of it breaking and NOT sending metal into my oil??

[ehsnils]

You will only know if you have metal in your oil if you check it thoroughly. A magnet is good to capture stuff. Any particles that you can feel with your fingers are bad.

 

Taking apart the turbo may reveal more. A prolonged grinding generates more particles than a sudden halt.

[08 LGT]

It sounds like once you get on solid ground with this car you'll have tons of fun.

 

I'd also hesitate on an $1,800 Audi. I can't imagine that will treat you any better.

 

Yes, do not buy a cheap used German car. It will quickly become a several thousand dollar "budget car".

[Merc6]

I don't believe the shaft is broken. The nut is missing from the shaft. Turn the turbine and see if the shaft turns inside the compressor wheel. Obviously the wheel has hit the compressor housing but the center bearing support housing may still be usable.

Before dropping the pan, drain the oil through a paint strainer or a piece of pantyhose and look for flakes/chunks/shavings. Once drained, tape a Qtip to a straightened piece of coat hanger and swab around the bottom of the oil pan and see if it's clean or has metallic paste. If clean, put a turbo on it and do a 4 flush on it. If paste, drop the pan.

 

This plus replace oil cooler at minimum. I skipped that step and ended up contaminating the new turbo anyways. Perfect excuse for me to score a JmP 52 but the hard headed way.

[faralcane]

Drained the oil today, thick and black as it's been sitting almost a month, but no shavings of metal in what drained out. Ran it through a paint strainer like Jmp suggested and nothing was caught. A new oil cooler is on the way and I plan to drop the oil pan still because I'll just feel better having visually inspected it vs swabbing it.