Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[Darth SpecB]

I did it myself, so whether or not it was necessary wasn't a factor for me.

 

Looking backwards: a break-in tune for my 99% stock rebuild probably wasn't absolutely critical. It certainly didn't hurt though. My tune pretty much consisted of limiting boost to the wastegate minimum and lowering the redline. It wasn't fancy but it did the job of helping me be easy on the motor.

Interesting, I am looking to do the same thing. I have heard you need to Rev up and engine break in order to seat the new rings to the new hone. The only problem is that I have no clue how the car is tuned atm. It could possibly be stage 2 because when I bought the car I received dyno sheets at 250whp. A stock tune could have been applied before the sale as well which would be detrimental considering I have an intake and turbo back. I don't see a way to be revving my engine without boost since it kicks in around 2500 rpm.

 

I'm not meaning to thread jack just looking for info. Great job on the build btw! One of my inspirations!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[StkmltS]

Thanks for the compliments. So far I'm very pleased with the outcome.

 

Others can chime in... if you have an AP tune loaded in the car, can you overwrite the car's existing ROM with a new ROM via a Tactrix cable?

 

If yes, Darth you could just buy/borrow a Tactrix cable and use it to load a new stage 2 map (opensource or a custom eTune). If you already have the stock ROM or an opensource ROM loaded in your car, you could just save that ROM to a computer and compare it to a stock ROM... or send it to me and I'll compare it to a stock '09 ROM.

[chhrisd]

Thanks for the compliments. So far I'm very pleased with the outcome.

 

Others can chime in... if you have an AP tune loaded in the car, can you overwrite the car's existing ROM with a new ROM via a Tactrix cable?

 

If yes, Darth you could just buy/borrow a Tactrix cable and use it to load a new stage 2 map (opensource or a custom eTune). If you already have the stock ROM or an opensource ROM loaded in your car, you could just save that ROM to a computer and compare it to a stock ROM... or send it to me and I'll compare it to a stock '09 ROM.

 

no, an ecu that's married to an accessport will be unwritable by a tactrix cable. you'll need to unmarry it before being able to flash a new map.

[StkmltS]

no, an ecu that's married to an accessport will be unwritable by a tactrix cable. you'll need to unmarry it before being able to flash a new map.

 

Well that sucks. I won't ask how to resolve the married w/o AP issue because I'm sure there are a thousand threads about it elsewhere. The more I learn, the more I'm glad I went opensource.

 

Speaking of opensource... maybe I should load a stage 2 map as a Christmas gift to "the silver car" as my kids call it.

[SBT]

Only way to unmarry an ECU without the AP, is to send it to Cobb for them to do it.

[fahr_side]

Only way to unmarry an ECU without the AP, is to send it to Cobb for them to do it.

 

 

 

Nope. They also can be 'unlocked' via SHbootmode tools. This is a method by which the whole ROM image is overwritten, including all those sectors containing the data for communication protocols which Cobb and ECUtek use to lock the ECU. The whole process is in the public domain and the parts needed for the hardware module are dirt cheap. The only thing you cannot do is read off the ROM image. It can only be overwritten.

Edited December 23, 2016 by fahr_side

[StkmltS]

2848.1 on the rebuild (112,000 on the car) and all is well.

 

17.59 mpg on my last tank of fuel.

 

I haven't seen any new oil spots on my driveway in quite a while so the leak may have stopped.

 

This LV is pretty typical of what I see on a daily basis. It's pretty much always pulling timing in one cell in the leftmost column, sometimes the LV shows correction in the two left columns (one cell each), and I can't remember ever seeing a non-zero value in either of the two right columns. I occasionally see single occurrences of knock during shifts and while accelerating from a stop, which is probably what's causing the timing correction. I'm concerned enough that I'm going to start messing with the tune to eliminate the knock, but not concerned enough to stop driving the car with enthusiasm.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161230/675eda0a6321453c9bec0474318659c5.jpg

Edited December 30, 2016 by StkmltS

[xt2005bonbon]

That is still an awful gas mileage though.

 

SO, have you checked the #2 spark plug?

[StkmltS]

That is still an awful gas mileage though.

 

SO, have you checked the #2 spark plug?

Nope

[StkmltS]

I think this was the first time I've seen positive values in the LV timing corrections. Supposedly it was 9deg F outside this morning, so maybe that had something to do with it.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170107/2fdc0498a5f1705509071573e8d596f2.jpg

[heiche]

You had an IAM drop. It will reset all of the timing cells to zero, then it will gradually experiment by adding some positive values (more timing) until it feels like it can bump the IAM up a notch, then it will reset the cells to zero, and start all over until IAM makes it to 1.000

[xt2005bonbon]

Yeah, IAM dropped. that's why .

[xt2005bonbon]

Andrew, how much did it cost you to rebuild your turbo? And how quick did it take JMP to do the job? Also, did you just pm him?

The Vf40 in the 05 is almost dead .

[StkmltS]

Andrew, how much did it cost you to rebuild your turbo? And how quick did it take JMP to do the job? Also, did you just pm him?

The Vf40 in the 05 is almost dead .

 

Check your PMs.

[StkmltS]

I'm flashing a stage 2 map today.

 

Basically I used Mickyd2005's stage 2 ROM (WGDC tables reduced by 20%), with rhino6303's fueling changes (from 2006 JDM Legacy GT with A2UG000B), and my own MAF sensor scaling with a 7k/6.5k off/on rev limit. I'm using MickyD's stage 2 map pretty much because I ended up with a JMP custom-vf40 instead of a stock vf40.

 

I've started messing around with the tune sooner that I thought I would, and I'm blaming that on the cold weather. In the last couple of months I've learned alot about tuning and I feel confident in my ability to tweak my ROM as needed. At the start of this I wasn't planning on "going stage 2", the complete opposite actually, but here we are nevertheless.

 

If the stars are aligned properly (if it's not raining) I'm going to pick up some vacuum Ts on my way home from church and move the fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference line from the IM to the BPV. I'm also ready to switch over to synthetic oil so that also might happen today.

Edited January 23, 2017 by StkmltS

[Rhitter]

stupid question - but you have an aftermarket downpipe right?

[StkmltS]

stupid question - but you have an aftermarket downpipe right?

I replaced the stock catted UP with a catless UP from a newer LGT, but the DP is still stock w/cat. I've read/heard/been told mixed opinions about catless DPs so for the time being I'm keeping it as-is. What are your thoughts?

[rhino6303]

I replaced the stock catted UP with a catless UP from a newer LGT, but the DP is still stock w/cat. I've read/heard/been told mixed opinions about catless DPs so for the time being I'm keeping it as-is. What are your thoughts?

Mickeyd's tune is for a car with an aftermarket downpipe. It will run but it would not be advisable to use without an aftermarket downpipe.

[Rhitter]

^ that is basically what I was checking on / my thoughts. However, I am not a tuner, and you know more about it than I do.

 

However, bolded parts that would make me not want to run this without an aftermarket downpipe.

 

This map is for a 2005 LGT 5MT with a reinforced intercooler and a catless Invidia Downpipe.

 

MUST HAVE STOCK INTAKE WITH SILENCER AND OEM PANEL FILTER and stock injectors and stock fuel pump.

 

This map can be used on other 05-06 LGTs but you will need to copy all the tables over to your rom.

 

This map may be too aggressive for many cars. I recommend that you start by subtracting 20% from the entire WGDC initial tables AND the WGDC max table. Then datalog. Then add 10% to all three tables and then datalog. Then add the final 10% and again datalog.

[xt2005bonbon]

I recall my tuner telling me that changing the downpipe changes the turbo back pressure or something. Something to consider.

[MTBwrench]

The downpipe, assuming it is the most restrictive, will change the flow capability of the exhaust system. An aftermarket downpipe has a larger tubing diameter and less resistive/absent cats. Technically, the same pre-turbo manifold pressure would net higher turbine speed with an aftermarket downpipe, as the heated gasses have much more room to expand, and a much less resistive path to travel post turbo. Obviously there's way more to turbo dynamics than that, but that's how I look at it.

[StkmltS]

It seems like the general consensus is that a catless setup requires a tune. Let's go with that for now. This is all loosely based on "things" that "people" say on the Internet... proceed with discernment and caution.

 

Less restriction (no cat or a better flowing cat) means that under boost the turbo can/may/will/is able to spin a little faster and sooner than it's being told to (as I understand it, that's boost creep). When that happens it sounds logical to think the tune would be chasing the turbo, making adjustments (fuel, timing, etc) ever-so-slightly after the turbo already did what it wanted to do. This could lead to a slightly lean situation, which can be bad.

 

So, if my understanding isn't wrong yet, you slightly adjust the tune to account for the sooner-spooling turbo, perfectly matching the expectations of the tune to the reality of the turbo. That's why tuning is always beneficial - no two setups are exactly alike.

 

What happens if you put the cat back on and leave the catless tune unchanged? Don't forget that I'm still spit-balling here... the turbo is now spinning slightly slower and/or after the tune is telling it to, and the tune is once again chasing reality. This time though, the AFR would be richer than targeted. That isn't desirable, but it isn't harmful either.

 

Therefore hence the preceding impeccable Internet logic presented by myself, MickyD's stage 2 tune will not harm my motor. Because my tune is Opensource/DIY (naturally) any negative aspects mentioned in my preceding confusicated self-discussion will eventually be identified and accounted for by yours truly

 

TLDR: I think I'll be fine.

Edited January 16, 2017 by StkmltS

[xt2005bonbon]

some good info here

 

Stock STi DP outflows the LGT/WRX/FXT item by about 20%, according to Subaru.

Stock STi DP is still a restriction on a stock STi. Just because it can make more power than a stock LGT doesn't mean it isn't restrictive. Relatively speaking, a more restrictive exhaust will mean higher exhaust gas backpressure and thus higher EGT. You can still make power but your safety margins will be lower and in theory, longevity / reliability will suffer. There's a good reason most stage 1 tunes are capped at around 15psi...

 

FWIW I tried a stock STi DP on my WRX when I upgraded to the BNR 16G because I like to keep the car looking stock. It really held things back. I gutted the stock WRX 1st cat, kept the STi 2nd cat and immediately gained in spool and airflow up top. I'm going to do a high-flow catted DP soon to get the full potential from the turbo.

 

The other thing to note is boost control. That horrible plate flange on the stock DP really interferes with the wastegate flow and that makes it harder to get fine control over boost. If you go back to stock you will see a more ragged boost curve.

[StkmltS]

17.59 mpg on my first tank of gas with a pre-stage 2 map (WGDC reduced by 20%). Not too bad IMO considering how quickly I've been accelerating... from EVERY stop.

 

Sent from inner space.

[xt2005bonbon]

what is your max target boost and max wgdc now?