Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[birkhoff]

If you tap a piston down and stop at juuuuust the right spot, you can see that the oil ring is positioned correctly BEFORE causing any damage.

 

 

Not sure what I am seeing there. The ring compressor should sit straight on the piston, with the leaves all aligned and only the piston skirt showing before you start. It should be quite firmly cinched down.

 

Once you start feeding in the piston, the compressor must stay in contact with the firedeck at all times, otherwise a ring will slip out. Maybe you are just experimenting there to show us that the oil pack has made it in, but otherwise, that picture looks pretty scary!

[SBT]

^ My thoughts exactly. Why is the compressor "tipped". I'd be holding that firmly against the block to ensure nothing expands until it's fully inside the bore.

 

Hope the re-hone fixes the bore issue. What's the status on the new A piston and rings?

[StkmltS]

In the pic of interest I had the compressor lifted just for the pic.

 

Birkhoff - what you described is probably what happened.

 

The case halves are torqued back together and I'm checking the new clearances in cylinder "F" now...

[StkmltS]

You may or may not recall that a while ago I bought a few used pistons with an unknown amount of miles on them. Well, I cleaned off the best looking one and decided it was worthy of making the team. I wasn't motivated by saving a few dollars, it's a really great looking piston. A little brake cleaner and about 5 minutes of scrubbing got it looking almost as good as new (compared to a new one in the pics). Even the skirt coating looks near-new. Say what you will, but it's in the motor now. Cylinder F was already compromised.

 

Cylinder F's end gaps using new rings + the top oil ring from the used piston:

Top - 0 017"

Middle - 0.0235"

Oil (both)- 0.016"

 

The crank spins easily as it should and none of the cylinders are scratched (this time). I'm sealing everything up and calling it a day. All things considered I'm pleased with today's work.

Edited August 31, 2016 by StkmltS
pic uploaded to server

[StkmltS]

These little guys showed up today!

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160813/01ef5d4018e7afa3872b38bcc012dbee.jpg

[BarManBean]

Pretty hard to tell in the pics, but did you confirm that those used pistons have the same "dish" or whatever as the other 3 pistons?

[xt2005bonbon]

Crossing fingers everything will go well for you and that you will be 'boosting' in just a few days.

[afhedrick]

nice job, wish i will be doing mine soon too. let me know if you have any pointers.

[StkmltS]

... waiting for birkhoff's response ...

 

Sent from inner space.

[StkmltS]

Pretty hard to tell in the pics, but did you confirm that those used pistons have the same "dish" or whatever as the other 3 pistons?

Not yet. I'm going to try to do it with the pistons installed. I'll just use oil instead of water.

 

Sent from inner space.

[fahr_side]

Not yet. I'm going to try to do it with the pistons installed. I'll just use oil instead of water.

 

Sent from inner space.

 

 

 

Might also check they are close in weight unless you want the motor to shake itself to bits.

[birkhoff]

Nice job on a quick recovery there. Sometimes getting the dang project moving trumps perfection.

 

Can't you compare the dish on the pistons you still have at the bench? You have the forked `B' grade as a standard and at least one other of the used ones.

 

And as fahr-side suggested, check piston weight. You can also do that with the spares. New stock is within a gram or two out of the box, around 415g for the set I worked with. I'd weigh them first. It'd be astounding if they had the same weight but different crowns.

[StkmltS]

I'm not certain the used pistons are all from the same motor, so the weight of one may not represent the others. The new take-out pistons probably didn't come from the same motor either, but I did weigh them to confirm they're all close to each other. I'm sure I wrote the numbers down somewhere...

 

Tonight's plan:

Turn on air conditioner

Remove piston F

Weigh piston F

Measure dish of used piston F

Measure dish of new piston B

Reinstall piston F

Measure dish of piston in cyl #2 (if feasible)

Reinstall all access hole plugs and covers (transmission side)

Seal engine using tape and ear plugs

Place engine on stand

Sand rusty spots on oil pan

Clean coolant crossover pipe

Paint oil pan and crossover pipe

 

The Internet doesn't need to know what my daily goals are, but writing down what I'm hoping to accomplish each day has really helped me to stay on-task and not get side tracked.

After all, goals are only dreams until there's a written plan.

Edited August 16, 2016 by StkmltS

[SBT]

"Plans are worthless, but planning is everything."

-- Dwight D. Eisenhower

 

"No battle plan survives contact with the enemy."

-- German military strategist Helmuth von Moltke

 

I'm all for planning.

[FJuan]

"Planning only makes you more focus"

- LGT forum member know as FJuan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xt2005bonbon]

OK, my turn

 

"If you fail to plan, you plan to fail" T.S. Monson

[SBT]

And the one I use when talking about strategic planning with clients is a version of Monson's quote:

 

"People/companies don't plan to fail, they just fail to plan."

[heiche]

Counterpoint: "Just do it!" -Nike

 

[seanyb505]

Proper prior planning prevents pretty poor performance

[Max Capacity]

Proper prior planning prevents pretty poor performance

 

Bingo, give that man a cookie.

[StkmltS]

The rear main seal is evenly flush with the OD (outside diameter) in the case.

 

All three access hole plugs have new gaskets and ultra grey, and are tq'd to 50.6 ft/lbs.

 

Rear cover plate screws are tq'd at 4.7 ft/lbs (56.4 in/lbs). The small cover has a new o-ring, and the baffle plate has ultra grey. The screws holding on the large baffle plate can be a real PITA to get out. I had to ez-out two of them, so I replaced all six with new M6-1.0 x 14mm screws for good measure (from Home Depot).

 

I've only used a few new gaskets so far, but the pics in Bonbon's master gasket thread have already been very helpful.

Edited August 31, 2016 by StkmltS
pic uploaded to server

[StkmltS]

What's the torque for the coolant crossover pipe bolts? The spec isn't where I want it to be in the service manual.

 

Sent from inner space.

[BarManBean]

What's the torque for the coolant crossover pipe bolts? The spec isn't where I want it to be in the service manual.

 

Sent from inner space.

 

It's just one bolt right? Looks like FSM says 4.7 ft/lb (6.4 Nm). Page 1716.

 

Don't really see why it would matter though. Just snug it down and you should be good, don't strip it.

[xt2005bonbon]

Isn't this on LU(H4DOTC)-4 item 12? Could be wrong.

[StkmltS]

I'm getting a little ahead of myself, I was talking about the large crossover pipe on top of the motor (4 bolts).

 

Right now I'm stuck on step 22 on page 1779.