Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[StkmltS]

Rod oil clearances:

R1 - 0.0015" (0.006" side)

R2 - 0.0015" (0.006" side)

R3 - 0.0015" (0.006" side)

R4 - between 0.0015" and 0.002" (0.008" side)

 

FSM specifies the oil clearance to be 0.0007" to 0.0018", and the side clearance to be 0.0028" to 0.0130". Lucky me, only one set of bearings for the mains and rods.

 

Last night I talked to JMP about my turbo and then packed it up for shipping. Goodbye VF40, hello custom-VF40!

[Tehnation]

lol, ACL is Australian, things are simpler down under i guess!

[StkmltS]

Tuning is on my mind.

 

I'll just type my questions here in this box, and if anyone can answer them before I do they win an Internet prize.

 

• With my new custom-vf40 and catless UP, after the break-in period should I start with mickeyd's stage 2 tune, or NSFW's stage 2 tune?
  
• What have I gotten myself into?
  
• Maybe I should pay for a tune... no way man, I'm doing it myself... maybe... no... maybe... no... maybe... no... maybe... no...
  
• After this is over will I ever be able to buy a non-Subaru vehicle?
  
• After this is over will my wife ever let me buy another Subaru?
  

 

Last night my dad stopped by to check on my progress and he took a few pictures of my shortblock sitting in the living room because I'm one of "those people" now.

[SBT]

With my new custom-vf40 and catless UP, after the break-in period should I start with mickeyd's stage 2 tune, or NSFW's stage 2 tune?

 

Can't speak to other's "tunes", but you will want it tooned to be sure. I personally prefer dyno and road-tune to sweeten everything.

 

What have I gotten myself into?

 

You're asking this now.....why?

 

Maybe I should pay for a tune... no way man, I'm doing it myself... maybe... no... maybe... no... maybe... no... maybe... no...

 

See my first response. Pay and get it done. Maps and logs are great, but they can be time-consuming and expensive if the local constabulary get involved... you've been warned.

 

After this is over will I ever be able to buy a non-Subaru vehicle?

 

Simple answer - NO. More appropriate question - why would you want to? You're having too much fun with this one.

 

After this is over will my wife ever let me buy another Subaru

 

To quote Hillary - "Oh Good Heavens No." And there-in lies the problem.

 

Last night my dad stopped by to check on my progress and he took a few pictures of my shortblock sitting in the living room because I'm one of "those people" now.

 

He's totally jealous - because his wife wouldn't let him do that. Just help him to admit it so he can possibly regard his man card.

[Cincy05LGT]

Please look into getting a tune from Corbin at TiC. Undeniably one of the best in the Midwest. He can hook you up with a break-in tune, and then the dyno. At least hit him up with some questions. He's surprisingly approachable for a tuner...

 

http://johnsontuning.com

[StkmltS]

If I buy a tune I'd probably use one of the etune tuners on here. A dyno tune is arguably better, but I don't care about numbers (I'm lying) and I feel like a road tune is adequate in my situation. Drive-ability is most important, and leaving a little power on the table is ok with me (not a lie). Etunes are also way cheaper than dyno tunes, which is a big factor in many of my decisions.

 

If I got a dyno tune it would certainly be from TiC. All of my interactions with them have been pleasant and I'd be happy to give them my business.

 

Everyone seems to agree that tuning for significant mods (a different turbo) is critical, but the field is pretty divided when it comes to how to tune. AP vs Opensource, road tune vs dyno... the BEST option is usually easy to agree on (dyno = best), but some people tend to get so attached to their "dyno rules!" opinion that they think everything else isn't just inferior, but down-right inadequate and harmful. The line between opinion and fact is a blurry one.

 

I'm not directing my comments at anyone, this is just to voice my opinion so that my thought process is transparent. People in general will always find a reason to disagree, and that's not wrong, but I'd like them to have the opportunity to understand why I chose one option over the others.

[xt2005bonbon]

different topic ...

 

When you'll put the engine together, what engine assembly lube will you use?

[xt2005bonbon]

My bucket list per bonbon's request:

LHS

501, 501 (ground), 498, 498 (ground), 497, 496, 496, 495

RHS

507, 506, 506, 504, 503, 503, 501, 500

 

 

Also, did you actually measure them? I measured mine and the thickness have decreased ~.02mm for most of them.

[StkmltS]

Last night I played around with my new rings and came up with some interesting numbers.

 

I'm using NPR rings (SWF20068ZZ) instead of OEM because of the significant price difference. The NPR rings are pre-gapped and are as identical to each other as I can measure.

 

Measured end gap:

Top ring - 0.0125"

Second ring - 0.0170"

Oil rings - 0.0125"

 

FSM specified end gap for '05 LGTs:

Top ring - 0.0079" to 0.0098"

Second ring - 0.015 to 0.020"

Oil rings - 0.0079 to 0.0197"

 

FSM specified end gap for '05 STI's:

Top ring - 0.0079" to 0.0098" - 0.039" max limit

Second ring - 0.015 to 0.020" - 0.039" max limit

Oil rings - 0.0079 to 0.0197" - 0.059" max limit

 

Does anyone have any ideas about why the STI fsm specifies a max limit for end gap, but the LGT fsm doesn't?

 

I think I'm going to use these rings even though the end gap is outside of the FSM's standard range.

Why? I'm glad you asked.

1. My measured end gap is what it should be per NPR's recommendation.
   
2. The STI fsm says my measured end gap is acceptable.
   
3. Everyone knows the LGT is a better version of the STI .
   
4. If my gap is ok in an STI, it should be totally fine in my LGT.
   

[StkmltS]

different topic ...

 

When you'll put the engine together, what engine assembly lube will you use?

The good kind? I bought a 4oz bottle of the Jegs branded stuff.

Also, did you actually measure them? I measured mine and the thickness have decreased ~.02mm for most of them.

Nope.

[xt2005bonbon]

The good kind? I bought a 4oz bottle of the Jegs branded stuff.

 

Nope.

 

 

This? http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Engine-Assembly-Lube/830887/10002/-1

 

 

Then, you should measure these buckets to double check their respective thickness.

[StkmltS]

This? http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Engine-Assembly-Lube/830887/10002/-1

Yep. Jegs is a reputable company and I decided that it's not worth paying more for any particular brand name.

 

Then, you should measure these buckets to double check their respective thickness.

Why?

[xt2005bonbon]

Why?

 

Cause you may reuse some of them no? Unless you'll be using the 'heiche' method or buy 16 new ones.

[xt2005bonbon]

Actually, now that I think about it... Since you'll be installing new valves, you basically will have to start from scratch to determine the proper clearance.

What will be your procedure then? Install heads with new valves, put used buckets, install camshafts, timing belt, and then measure clearance to determine which buckets you'll need?

[StkmltS]

Cause you may reuse some of them no? Unless you'll be using the 'heiche' method or buy 16 new ones.

I'll measure them when I check the lash. I'm really not looking forward to the whole bucket thing.

 

I was on the phone with JMP a few days ago and he (John) mentioned that the flat surface inside the buckets is actually concave. I'm going to play around with a few of them this weekend and see if I can measure how not-flat they are. If the curve is significant I'm not sure how I feel about the heiche method anymore. This whole thing is turning my world upside down!

 

Actually, now that I think about it... Since you'll be installing new valves, you basically will have to start from scratch to determine the proper clearance.

What will be your procedure then? Install heads with new valves, put used buckets, install camshafts, timing belt, and then measure clearance to determine which buckets you'll need?

That's exactly how I'll be doing it, and why I'm not looking forward to it.

Unless someone else wants to chime in and point out an easier way... anyone?

Edited July 29, 2016 by StkmltS

[xt2005bonbon]

That's exactly how I'll be doing it, and why I'm not looking forward to it.

Unless someone else wants to chime in and point out an easier way... anyone?

 

 

Yeah. That sucks. Pretty repetitive job. But you don't want to mess it up..

 

In any case, buying 16 new ones would suck (>=~$320).

[StkmltS]

I budgeted $160 hoping I'd only need 8 new ones, and assuming that I wouldn't be able to find any used ones.

 

Somebody needs to start two forever-lasting FS and WTB threads just for buying and selling buckets. Or just one huge "Buy Sell Trade buckets" thread that people post to and the original post is updated regularly with the different buckets that everybody has for sale. Just one consolidated place for people to go to for used buckets would be awesome... since that's what would satisfy my needs at this particular moment in time

[xt2005bonbon]

^ yeah I thought of this too.

[StkmltS]

Let the Internet records show that I posted the genius idea first, therefore I'm entitled to all future profits generated by said genius idea.

[xt2005bonbon]

I recall a similar thread on NASIOC where a person had a thread selling lots of buckets.

[Tehnation]

A lot of buckets can be reused, you just need to grind down the bump on the inside of bucket

 

like this guy

 

[FJuan]

When I rebuilt my motor I didn't measure the buckets, I just reused the same ones in their same position. After over 3 years now the motor still runs good, but I wished I did check the clearance of those buckets. That might be my next project this winter.

[xt2005bonbon]

When I rebuilt my motor I didn't measure the buckets, I just reused the same ones in their same position. After over 3 years now the motor still runs good, but I wished I did check the clearance of those buckets. That might be my next project this winter.

 

You went through all this work and did not check your clearance? You were lucky I guess that you did not have a tight valve or two. Or maybe you do now

Are you monitoring roughness per cylinder at idle? If you get a few counts at warm idle in a given cylinder, then it'd be time to check the clearance.

[FJuan]

You went through all this work and did not check your clearance? You were lucky I guess that you did not have a tight valve or two. Or maybe you do now

Are you monitoring roughness per cylinder at idle? If you get a few counts at warm idle in a given cylinder, then it'd be time to check the clearance.

 

I did have a machine shop do a leak test on the valves and they passed, but I was in a rush to get the motor back together since it was my only DD. Took me 3 weeks to pull the motor and put it back in, would have been faster if I didn't have to order additional parts that I over seen.

 

I've been lazy working on the car lately, I'm just burnt out. I plan on doing some logging here soon, since the car has been going in/out of "limp" mode this past year (no CEL). Thinking it might need to be retuned or those buckets need to be checked.

[xt2005bonbon]

I see. yeah, do check the roughness count at idle then, especially warm idle.