Xxchakalatexx Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 The all mighty max capacity has given me great info, as he always does with everyone and my recent turbo problems. The budget is very limited until i win the lottery or mcdonalds monopoly cash prizes. Lol. I wouldn't mind the ej257. But rebuilding seems to be my only option, unless one of these junkyards has a cheap longblock in mint condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Sorry for your loss 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 The all mighty max capacity has given me great info, as he always does with everyone and my recent turbo problems. The budget is very limited until i win the lottery or mcdonalds monopoly cash prizes. Lol. I wouldn't mind the ej257. But rebuilding seems to be my only option, unless one of these junkyards has a cheap longblock in mint condition. Car-parts.com will be your best search for motors. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I know you guys will highly frown upon this, but i found a rebuild kit for $600. Has pistons, rods, rings, etc, oil pump, new cam gears, belts. And a hardened crank is like almost $400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Talk to a local machine shop and see what they say. They should measure your cylinders and then match the pistons to each hole. You may want a new oil cooler too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 I've been looking in another direction. Several videos and comments also point to timing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Kind of sad to see an 11 year old car with only 107k miles need a new engine already. But guess i kinda deserve it. Why do you deserve it? Unless you were beating on an already hurt car... So you blew your turbo, and drove on it for a little bit (oops), then replaced the turbo. Then you continued to beat on it ("Was running the car pretty hard for about 5-10 minutes"), which sped up the already inevitable death of that motor. Expensive lesson to learn. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Why do you deserve it? Unless you were beating on an already hurt car... So you blew your turbo, and drove on it for a little bit (oops), then replaced the turbo. Then you continued to beat on it ("Was running the car pretty hard for about 5-10 minutes"), which sped up the already inevitable death of that motor. Expensive lesson to learn. Turbo blew back in december. Took it to a mechanic, he said wasn't the turbo. Got the car back and it ended up being the turbo. Took to another mechanic, and he replaced the turbo. Drove 100 miles on that turbo and it blew. Turns out the banjo bolt filter was restricting oil to both the turbo and cams. Removed the filter and bebuilt the turbo. Oil has been changed 3-4 times since then. Also put 1500miles on the engine since i fixed it. Comes to the other night where i was riding in 5th gear the whole time between 4k-5k rpm at 1/2 throttle for maybe at max 10 minutes. Since the rebuild, oil and coolant was checked daily multiple times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Did you check for particulates in the oil when you just changed the turbo? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Did you check for particulates in the oil when you just changed the turbo? Of course. It was a very small amount. Haven't seen any though since then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 The oil cooler has also been known to hold metal and release it over time. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 This one guy told me to dump additives into the gas and go WOT for like 2 minutes. Lol as far as the metal shavings come any human contact with it, it just starts crumpling away with minor pressure or rubbing. Turns into like a dust/powder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Would it be easier to pull the oil pan off and check from under the car whether it's a rod or bearing or whatever. I haven't checked the timing belt tensioner yet, but that could be my next check if that's not the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 The tensioner I think is easier to check then dropping the oil pan. In theory you can remove the drive belts and timing belt covers, put the bottom pulley back on and start the engine for a few and listen to the tensioner and pulleys. Think it through. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Think it through. This can be dangerous, if not properly equipped LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 I've already taken off the driver side timing cover, and started removing the fans. I've literally asked about 10 different people and i've gotten several different answers. Rod knock being the #1 answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Did you get a compression test done to see which cyclinder? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 No compression test. Haven't really messed with it cause of work and i have court tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 I don't think a compression test will help in this case ? I know on a normal engine (not boxer) where its easy to remove the plug wire or disconnect the coil pack. You can start the engine, remove one cylinder at time and listen for the sound to change. That will tell you which rod is knocking. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 True, I was thinking more of a bend rod. In this case, it sounds more like a spun bearing. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 So i'm going to do the 5th gear and someone hold the brake so i can get the crank pulley off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 This works well too. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture062.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture063.jpg Then you just bump the starter on once. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Idk if i trust myself to do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 If you are reasonably certain that there is internal engine damage and that its above your skill to diagnose/fix, then what are you doing? Better off taking it to a reputable shop and having it looked at by a professional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Idk if i trust myself to do that I have done that a dozen times, works like a charm. Otherwise, if you don't trust that way, you can take a long breaker bar and hit it a few times with a small sludge hammer and it will break loose. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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