Max Capacity Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Idk if i trust myself to do that Practice, just bump the key to start, the engine will only spin for a brief second. Trust me...I'm from the Gov't, I'm here to help.... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Didn't end up taking it off. But the top hose for the coolant got warm and the return coolant hose on the bottom of the radiator was cold. I'm posting another video too. The noise actually changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 https://youtu.be/T1h2qgOijKI I'm thinking there was a lack of coolant flow and it roasted my bearings onto the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 So a couple things right off the bat. Yes you have knock, yes you need a new shortblock, I really hope that you haven't driven it with it sounding like it does in that video because that minute and a half of it running made me sick to my stomach that you let it idle that long with that sound (sorry marine engineer and I have sympathy for engines). The radiator hoses getting warm on the top and cool on the bottom is completely normal. The top one is the coolant going from the block to the radiator and the bottom one is the coolant returning from the radiator to the waterpump to go through the engine again. A lack of coolant flow would not roast your bearings to the crank. The coolant goes nowhere near the main bearings or rod bearings it only goes in the water jackets surrounding the cylinders and in the heads. The only way your bearings get damaged and spun or wiped is by a lack of oil. I'll update this post in a minute of a CAT generator that was rebuilt on the ship I was on last summer that I have a picture of the wiped bearing, it didn't knock but when we took it apart it was obvious there had been some sort of contamination in the oil. You are at the time now where you really need to evaluate how much this car is worth to you. You are looking at at least $5k to do the rebuild properly with you doing the work as long as your heads aren't damaged. If putting another $5k into this car isn't worth it to you it is probably best to sell it for what you can or take the time and do a full part out. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 So a couple things right off the bat. Yes you have knock, yes you need a new shortblock, I really hope that you haven't driven it with it sounding like it does in that video because that minute and a half of it running made me sick to my stomach that you let it idle that long with that sound (sorry marine engineer and I have sympathy for engines). The radiator hoses getting warm on the top and cool on the bottom is completely normal. The top one is the coolant going from the block to the radiator and the bottom one is the coolant returning from the radiator to the waterpump to go through the engine again. A lack of coolant flow would not roast your bearings to the crank. The coolant goes nowhere near the main bearings or rod bearings it only goes in the water jackets surrounding the cylinders and in the heads. The only way your bearings get damaged and spun or wiped is by a lack of oil. I'll update this post in a minute of a CAT generator that was rebuilt on the ship I was on last summer that I have a picture of the wiped bearing, it didn't knock but when we took it apart it was obvious there had been some sort of contamination in the oil. You are at the time now where you really need to evaluate how much this car is worth to you. You are looking at at least $5k to do the rebuild properly with you doing the work as long as your heads aren't damaged. If putting another $5k into this car isn't worth it to you it is probably best to sell it for what you can or take the time and do a full part out. I love the car. But from a financial stand point, the car still has a loan out, which i owe $8000 on. Already spent $2000 on a turbo job. Which is far beyond what i should have paid. I doubt i can get half of that for a trade in. And i can't get a loan to pay for repairs due to already having one for the previous repairs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 I love the car. But from a financial stand point, the car still has a loan out, which i owe $8000 on. Already spent $2000 on a turbo job. Which is far beyond what i should have paid. I doubt i can get half of that for a trade in. And i can't get a loan to pay for repairs due to already having one for the previous repairs So what that sounds like is that you are either at: 1) The point of paying off the car while it just sits waiting for you to rebuild it when you are financially able to. 2) continue paying on the car while doing a full part out and eventually selling the shell which may cover most of the loan however you will more then likely be left with a few thousand in payment 3) selling as is for a major loss but I don't know how that would work with your loan. (engineer not a business/economics student) 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 So what that sounds like is that you are either at: 1) The point of paying off the car while it just sits waiting for you to rebuild it when you are financially able to. 2) continue paying on the car while doing a full part out and eventually selling the shell which may cover most of the loan however you will more then likely be left with a few thousand in payment 3) selling as is for a major loss but I don't know how that would work with your loan. (engineer not a business/economics student) 4) any cliffs nearby? LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 I wasn't going to suggest that on the internet but it may be an option along with a possible car fire 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 That gap insurance would cover it though.haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselsquid Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 That gap insurance would cover it though.haha Dat gap.... -Squid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZZMAN Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Guess it's time for endless hours of research and youtube tutorials on pulling the engine out. Kind of sad to see an 11 year old car with only 107k miles need a new engine already. But guess i kinda deserve it. Mine Spec B is ten years old now, cracked a piston rod, 72k miles and I am debating to rebuild or just scuttle and grab me the 2016 WRX STI. Either way I'll be parting with a lot of cash or a heck of a lot of cash because I'm anti-car payment kinda guy. But I hear you, my driving could be characterized as spirited so well I get the deserved part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Mine Spec B is ten years old now, cracked a piston rod, 72k miles and I am debating to rebuild or just scuttle and grab me the 2016 WRX STI. Either way I'll be parting with a lot of cash or a heck of a lot of cash because I'm anti-car payment kinda guy. But I hear you, my driving could be characterized as spirited so well I get the deserved part. Major big upgrade there. Let us know what you're doing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZZMAN Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Stock rebuild quote 5400... Water pump, thermostat timing belt rings gaskets all the bits and pieces... For closer to 10k and up P&L racing here will do a build bigger turbo oil cooler warranty engine for up to 500HP one year 12k miles... I'm liking the STI. I would probably list the car here "as is" for a week or two and then try local. Not 100% sure yet what to do but I'll post on here soon. Peace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just got a quote on a junkyard motor. Only 117,000 miles compression tested and only missing the timing cover. $3500. Kind of seems like a good price, but a new ej257 short block and some necessary extras will definitely cost less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZZMAN Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Thinking of selling as she sits... It's getting towed back to my house today. Didn't plan on this expense after last years trans rebuild, rotors, pads, clutch, plugs, tires project. This Summers projects are painting house, finishing basement, man cave... Might as well replace the turbo so now were are talking shop total cost 7k. I'd do it my self but no time, no engine hoist, and even then parts are in the thousands... It can't sit in my garage for four years again or my wife will make me sleep in it. but jeeeeez after a engine rebuild with 72k miles the damn thing is practically new and it still looks it. I drove an WRX STI.... sweet ride but 40g's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Thinking of selling as she sits... It's getting towed back to my house today. Didn't plan on this expense after last years trans rebuild, rotors, pads, clutch, plugs, tires project. This Summers projects are painting house, finishing basement, man cave... Might as well replace the turbo so now were are talking shop total cost 7k. I'd do it my self but no time, no engine hoist, and even then parts are in the thousands... It can't sit in my garage for four years again or my wife will make me sleep in it. but jeeeeez after a engine rebuild with 72k miles the damn thing is practically new and it still looks it. I drove an WRX STI.... sweet ride but 40g's... Not to sound harsh but do you have your own thread ? OP, $3500 is a lot for a 117,000 mile engine. The labor to R&R the engine is the same. For that 3500 you can have a zero mile short block and rebuilt heads. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Let the build begin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 Update: still haven't messed with car due to it being rainy the past 2 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 So i have a few questions. I pretty much am ready to have the engine taken out. Only 4 more things to unbolt/pull off till it's out. So i took a breaker bar and put it on the crank pulley, it went from semi easy to turn to being difficult to turn. And on the left side (passenger side) it sounds as if something is audible. Which could be just the rings/pistons scraping the cylinder wall. What could be the noise? also there is a hose coming out of the firewall right to the left of the transmission not connected to anything. What could that be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Hose, could that be a AC drain hose ? Put a ratchet on the crank bolt and work it back and forth and spray it with PB Blaster to clean the rust out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Would post a pic if it didn't take 15 minutes to upload. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Would post a pic if it didn't take 15 minutes to upload. Lol Re-size the image to under 1 megabyte and you'll be fine (1600x900 always works). Or host it elsewhere, and link the image. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 that thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 That is the A/C drain hose. Drive around with A/C on for about a 1/2 hr., then park the car. You should see some water on the ground just underneath that hose. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 If you don't see water coming out, give that hose a short blast of air from a compressor. Then watch the water come out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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