Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Back with more problems. Thanks in advance for any insight and help. Was running the car pretty hard for about 5-10 minutes and once it was time to take the exit off the highway i slowed down and rolled to a stop in neutral. Previously checking the oil and everything before even going out i knew the car was good to go as i check the coolant and oil almost twice a day. So as i came to the stop the car just shut off without me even noticing. Started back up and it made a rattling/clunking noise. Wasn't a blown turbo noise. Sounded like the normal ticking noise became louder and harder but it only happened when i accelerated. The exhaust sounded like it had gotten more breathing room also, like the DP or midpipe came loose. No lights on the dash. Drove it for 3/4 mile and it shut off again when i slowed down to make a stop. Checked the oil, which was fine and the coolant which looked fine in the reservoir. Nothing was leaking, removed the intercooler and the intake side of the turbo was clean. Unplugged the battery and reset the ecu. Plugged back in and started up, still no lights, turned off and started again. Drove the remaining 2-3 miles home and it drove fine other than the occasional noise. As i pulled into the yard, it totally died, tried starting it back up and i got no response from the engine. Sounded as if the starter locked up wouldn't click or even turn over. After letting it sit for 5ish minutes i tried again and it cranked over once and stopped. Tried a different battery, still the same thing. So i'm stuck. There was no warning signs of this happening, no lights, no acting weird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Have you checked the oil level ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Have you checked the oil level ? Yes. Oil is good. It actually cranked over a few times, but slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 So i got it to start. But it's definitely a clunking noise from the passenger side. After reving it very little and releasing the throttle it died. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Similar thing happened to mine right after I bought it. Motor had to be rebuilt. Didn't you post about some major turbo issues recently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Similar thing happened to mine right after I bought it. Motor had to be rebuilt. Didn't you post about some major turbo issues recently? Yeah that was me. Like it cranks slowly, and if i let it sit long enough it'll start, but idle is rough and it'll die and it'll go back to a slow crank. My fears are internals. Which i'm screwed if it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 #ynansb Look into getting a ej257 from Subaru, see my click here link. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 that's definitely out of my skill and money range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 According to my dad i didn't throw a rod YET. Do i still need a short block or can i just buy the crank, rods, bearings, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 My #3 rod was seized to the crankshaft. The shop got it running but to continue in that fashion is going to cause much more damage. I would say to stop driving it and have it towed to a shop immediately. It will have to be torn down and inspected to figure out if you can reuse anything. #ynansb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I think i caught it before any more major damage occured, haven't driven it at all since it happened. Anybody wanna buy a lightly used 05 lgt, comes with built in timer, audible knocking is loud enough to count out each 1/2 second. Very niced drive way weight. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 If you decide to keep it, my long time machine shop owner buddy who built our Honda race engines, told me it was cheaper to buy a new OEM short block then pay him to rebuild my block. That's why most of us just buy a EJ257 and have our heads rebuilt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Are the heads are a direct mount up the ej257 block with no mods? Tuning is obvious. But other than that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 05's have been torn apart to show the same parts as a 257 and that is only being suggested as you won't get the same engine if you order a new 255 from subaru. Listen to what Max has to say about buying a new SB rather than rebuilding your current one. They really are not very expensive for a very nice piece of mind that you won't have future issues because you reused a block that may have contaminated oil galleys. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Are the heads are a direct mount up the ej257 block with no mods? Tuning is obvious. But other than that Yes, the heads from your ej255 will bolt directly onto the ej257. You order the engine gasket set for your year car when you order the engine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Guess it's time for endless hours of research and youtube tutorials on pulling the engine out. Kind of sad to see an 11 year old car with only 107k miles need a new engine already. But guess i kinda deserve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Read the sticky at the top of the engine rebuild forum. Once you unbolt the tranny and get it broke loose from the block, its pretty easy from there on. I left the intake manifold etc in place and removed it when the engine was on the stand. Disconnect the fuel lines from the shock tower bracket, its easier. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I'm sure there's a thread about timing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Oil is perfect, coolant is perfect. It's definitely coming from the center of the engine. I'm about to upload a video to youtube and post the link. Also i noticed once the car shut off there was a faint ticking noise still going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ticking after the car is turned off is probably just metal contracting, like the exhaust system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Oil is perfect, coolant is perfect. It's definitely coming from the center of the engine. I'm about to upload a video to youtube and post the link. Also i noticed once the car shut off there was a faint ticking noise still going on. Video would help. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 https://youtu.be/HgbGP3-8SJs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxchakalatexx Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ticking after the car is turned off is probably just metal contracting, like the exhaust system. It was only on for a minute at most. Didn't even have time to warm up. Honestly now that i think about it, it sounds like it did when the turbo went out. I squeezed the coolant hose going to the turbo from the reservoir and it was easy to squeeze. May just be from no pressure in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 poor suby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Yup, that didn't sound good at all, and it does appear to be seizing up once it warms up. Time for a new or rebuilt shortblock, or check around with dismantlers for a used motor if you're on a budget. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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