dgoodhue Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Is it difficult to get intake cams for the 5th Gen to accommodate the lobe for the turbo scavenge oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Any 08+ STI cam has the keyway/slot for the oil scanvenger pump, it isn't a lobe at all. I will try to find a picture of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Would you have a dyno that you could post pretty please? Even a virtual dyno would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Any 08+ STI cam has the keyway/slot for the oil scanvenger pump, it isn't a lobe at all. I will try to find a picture of it. I have never seen actuator for the oil scavenger pump. I knew that the 08 STI cams had that, but wasn't sure if the aftermarket cams include that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) I have never seen actuator for the oil scavenger pump. I knew that the 08 STI cams had that, but wasn't sure if the aftermarket cams include that. I'm not 100% on this but I believe the STI uses it for a sensor or something. I had to edit this, I found the post in the roadblocks thread and it was S2baru who had the cams machined, they were GSC stage 1 cams for 08+. I am gonna try to dig into this a little more as I was looking for a cam upgrade. I will chat with a few shops close to me and see what they say. Edited March 10, 2019 by FLlegacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 That's exactly what I had done. No picture to show that though. Definitely opened up the mid-range a ton however. That's why when more air/fuel is going I'm excited for the 20g too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 I stopped video cause honestly I was to excited. He made more i just dont have the video. This was rhe best screenshot i grabbed. My bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Be nice to know where the graph starts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 I stopped video cause honestly I was to excited. He made more i just dont have the video. This was rhe best screenshot i grabbed. My bad. Â must've gotten your BS in teasing from GTEASER My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 must've gotten your BS in teasing from GTEASER [emoji38]Honestly I put the link in and it didnt take it. I meant to post both at same time. I'll get the video to another place and upload it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 I have never seen actuator for the oil scavenger pump. I knew that the 08 STI cams had that, but wasn't sure if the aftermarket cams include that. I'm not 100% on this but I believe the STI uses it for a sensor or something. I had to edit this, I found the post in the roadblocks thread and it was S2baru who had the cams machined, they were GSC stage 1 cams for 08+. I am gonna try to dig into this a little more as I was looking for a cam upgrade. I will chat with a few shops close to me and see what they say. So after a couple conversations with some Subaru Techs they both confirmed the USDM STI does not use the drive slot in the cam at all. It is apparently for another market, but ever present on the US model probably cost saving via part sharing. So I would infer USDM aftermarket cams will not have the slot necessary to drive the oil pump on our cars and would need to be machined for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) Dyno vid Edited March 29, 2019 by solgt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 1st pull E60Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 So i had this exhaust leak I sourced to a manifold nut had backed off. Hard to tell by visually inspecting. Sorted it out and took for test drive. Sounded great, afr little off but good. Got to home stretch (less than a mile from home), when some thing broke. I just let clutch out to engage 2nd after making a right. Immediately looked at Acessport and numbers good. So that left trans. Sound was clanging grind. Push clutch in no sound. Inverse noise return. Parked in nice neighborhood, walked home with my 3yr son. I initially thought it was the clutch fork. But the shifter moved and possibly engage. That tells me the trans has possibly had enough. Or one of the gears rather. So there's that.  Hey i got to drive it in boost for 4 months! Qwhat a great time that was! Smiles per gallon- check and double check.  Some other new parts I installed were; Gecko street coilovers and camber plates, R1 concepts geomet slotted rotors f/r, Akebono pro-act pads f/r Have Goodridge ss brake lines yet to be installed.  I added +1 to the factory setting for the coilovers and it rides so much better than just springs on oe struts. The spring rate stiffness is a tad higher than i like but, the dividends (wife likes the compliance the the highway) sells it self. Across the board from acceleration to stopping and cornering has been drastically improved the use of my 22-24mm sway bars The brakes are just what's needed. I slow down now faster than most with barely pushing the pedal. Push harder and you're stopping now. I mean dam check the rear view so i dont get hit. Fade? Havent gone to that level of need so i can't tell. This is the first car I've owned that surpassed 100k with the original rotors front and rear! All i did was change pads! Actual was 109800. Almost 110k. Blown away.  Maybe a internal transmission issue. Might need a sti swap lol. Wish me luck guys. My wallet is gonna need it[emoji87][emoji86][emoji85][emoji16][emoji16] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 When I lost a gear - it would not allow me to shift into it while driving. Now, sitting still with engine off - I could shift just fine. I could still drive the car - just would skip 3rd. When they drained the trans out popped a tooth! I too managed 180k miles on the trans. Not to bad! Good luck. I settled with a full rebuild of the gears. Also will be slapping on the Trans brace for just added "luck". Hey, if I can get another 180k out of the next one - fine with me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 When I lost a gear - it would not allow me to shift into it while driving. Now, sitting still with engine off - I could shift just fine. I could still drive the car - just would skip 3rd. When they drained the trans out popped a tooth! I too managed 180k miles on the trans. Not to bad! Good luck. I settled with a full rebuild of the gears. Also will be slapping on the Trans brace for just added "luck". Hey, if I can get another 180k out of the next one - fine with me! Sounds much easier and cheaper than the STi swap. Although, maybe not as much fun...? With all the luck i have had with mine, I'm keeping this in mind as a possible issue in the future... hopefully the distant future. Good luck solgt and I hope it's the cheaper of the options for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Sounds much easier and cheaper than the STi swap. Although, maybe not as much fun...? With all the luck i have had with mine, I'm keeping this in mind as a possible issue in the future... hopefully the distant future. Good luck solgt and I hope it's the cheaper of the options for you. I am debating this myself, I want to be prepared for the future but who knows...the sti swap sounds great, lol. But if the price of fuel skyrockets in 4 or 5 years that will be an afterthought for sure. I might let a shop deal with it if I don't have time. I also think I may have settled on future power mods, but I am going to keep it to myself for now,  Sorry to hear about your issues solgt hopefully you find your path forward quickly and get back to enjoying your GT on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Solgt-Sorry for your troubles. Trust me I know the feeling. Just food for thought. Not sure what your rebuild will cost or what islandborn paid for his rebuild, but the Sti swap cost me just under 5k. That was me doing all the Fab work myself, but still not too pricey for what you get. Edited April 13, 2019 by BBPeik My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 Thanks guys. It happened on a gorgeous day. Temp mid 70s, made walking home fun for us. Â Rebuilding the trans this year as an option maybe be leaving. I hadn't seen this coming and no backup money is there. Most likely I'll be parking it in the garage till this fall maybe and revisit it. Thankfully I have a spare car that needs a little brake fix and good to go. Â Just starting the car in neutral made horrible sounds the one time i did after i parked. Thought of engaging a gear made me cringe. Didn't want to chance it breaking more. Â Its at Andrewtech for now as they look it over to make sure it's internal. Hopefully resources become available for the rebuild soon. Till then.... Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 If the clutch fork broke, the angry noises you heard trying to start the car in neutral could have just been the fork dragging against the back of the pressure plate. There's a good chance you'd be able to see what's going on in there if you pull the rubber boot off the transmission where the fork comes through to the slave cylinder. If that's it, you might not even have to drop the trans to fix the issue, just slide it back far enough to get at the fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 That will be awesome if only the fork and maybe pressure plate failed. I honestly don't know. I'll find out over the next few days what's going to happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted April 27, 2019 Author Share Posted April 27, 2019 Car is home. I'll get that boot off and look. What exactly am I looking for? I'll take a pic of what I see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted April 27, 2019 Share Posted April 27, 2019 You're looking at the front middle of the fork. There is a bump out in the front of the fork and that is where the ball pushes through from the back side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solgt Posted April 29, 2019 Author Share Posted April 29, 2019 This is what I've found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Well, that don't look good, but cheaper than a bad trans. From here it looks like the ball went through and there is a crack in the fork...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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