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Rebuild of 05 LGT 2.5 Wagon


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looking for some input on roof rails. removed them and thinking i might fill in holes and go without? kind of like the idea to streamline it. i don't want to buy the deletes for it, too expensive and stupid to take out the liner again. thoughts?

 

going to fill in holes.

 

The oem AUDM Liberties (aussie version of our legacy) has much lower profile roof rails.

 

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The oem AUDM Liberties (aussie version of our legacy) has much lower profile roof rails.

 

would love those rails, but $325 USD each is not worth it. that was the price from japan and that didn't include shipping. i can't think it would be any cheaper down under?

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cleaning up the garage and found the old tmic. thought it would nice to see the difference between it and my grimmspeed tmic. just a little bigger. what's super nice is GS expanded their hood venting to match their tmic's face.

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with down time this week i decided to go after the mirrors to see what i can do to get rid of the grandparent signal. i don't like the covers out there. the plan is to paint the mirror shell top and bottom clear part the same color as the car, except for a small, thin slice between the top plastic and the bottom clear plastic. once painted we'll clear it and should be pretty seemless. with the signal lights at the bottom, i'm hoping the light reached the center of the mirror. if not, oh well.

 

be warned, the three screws at the bottom of the mirrors have lock-tight on them. use a soldering gun, which worked for the most part, but we had to drill out two of them that had striped heads.

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This is my absolute dream for a random dd. Completely tear it down to do everything right. Looking at my wagon in the garage now, I'd love to restore it to absolute mint condition, even though it's really not that bad now.

 

it's a hell of a lot of work, more then i thought it was going to be. the only reason i went at this project to this level is because the last owner had it repainted for want ever reason and did a sh$#ty job. clear was peeling all over. plus he converted the front bumper to a 2008, so he had to change up the fenders. fenders were peeling clear and paint. pretty sure it had damage at one time. it's been a blast to work on, but without talented friends who know way more then me, i would have just handed the car down to one of my teens.

 

these cars aren't super rare, but when i was looking for one 4 years ago, there were only two for sale, unlimited MT versions. one in chicago and another one in colorado. the guy in chicago was a jerk. so i flew to CO and bought the car and drove it back to MN. and now it looks like a big ugly lego.

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wanting to put an harness bar in. suggestions as to what will fit? the pillars are exposed and kicking around welding plates in to hold harness bar vs using the seat belt anchors. it would have to be removable, room for kids of course when not on the track. i've check the web and not finding anything for legacys. thoughts, suggestions?

 

I'm not a fan of harness bars. Having a harness bar means you are looking at some sort of racing harness. Both are bad ideas in a street car. They are 1/2 measures that are unsafe for both street and track. Same idea as putting a roll cage in a street car.

 

And don't get a 4 point harness, I just read about a guy who had his girlfriend in his car for an HPDE event with a 4 point. Crash, she submarined and died. 4 point harnesses are banned at almost all race tracks.

 

Street cars work best with OEM belts, seats, and air bags. If you want to auto-x or track your car the only modification to the belts I like is the CG Lock. http://www.cg-lock.com/autocross.html

 

Race cars work best with full cage, racing harness, fire system, Hans device, racing seat, no air bags.

 

There really is no in between that doesn't compromise your safety.

 

IMHO.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I'm not a fan of harness bars. Having a harness bar means you are looking at some sort of racing harness. Both are bad ideas in a street car. They are 1/2 measures that are unsafe for both street and track. Same idea as putting a roll cage in a street car.

 

And don't get a 4 point harness, I just read about a guy who had his girlfriend in his car for an HPDE event with a 4 point. Crash, she submarined and died. 4 point harnesses are banned at almost all race tracks.

 

Street cars work best with OEM belts, seats, and air bags. If you want to auto-x or track your car the only modification to the belts I like is the CG Lock. http://www.cg-lock.com/autocross.html

 

Race cars work best with full cage, racing harness, fire system, Hans device, racing seat, no air bags.

 

There really is no in between that doesn't compromise your safety.

 

IMHO.

 

i have a harness bar and 5 point on my other car, no substitute. if the cg-lock works as good as the site promotes, it's a huge savings of money and time. very cool.

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  • 1 month later...
the car is primed and ready for paint. my body guy wants the engine in before final paint and assembly. my paint guy and engine guy are hilarious. both think the other will screw up their work. that's when you know you're working with the best.

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fun time. let my boy play hookie from school (i did from work too) to deliver car to engine shop. got pulled over, tab fell off on rear plate of truck. state trooper was super cool. owned a subaru too.

 

never give a 14yr a ex-large doughnut on a 2 hour trip.

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on to the engine. we've decided to upgrade some internals to the sti or spec b parts, where it makes sense. were doing head studs vs head bolts. also doing stock head gaskets. it should be good up to 500hp. i'm only going for 350hp. pistons are in and numbered.

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ok, my friend just picked up a racing 2002 bmw. what a car. it has the 250hp grenade motor. basically it blows up at 30k. he's got 25k left. the car weights next to nothing. can't wait for track to open in may.

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it's coming together. for those of you having large oil consumption issues, check the rear main seals. i thought my pistons were the issue. turns out the rear main seal was shot. great reason to upgrade pistons. lol.

 

we hit an issue today. the gasket kit didn't come with half moons. These are the factory plastic half-moon seals that are a part of the valve cover seals on all of the EJ series heads from the EJ205, EJ257, and EJ255. they come with the sti kit, but not with the legacy spec b kit.

 

engine should be in this week some time. then back to the bodyshop. couldn't do this without super dave. dave also did the engine on my e36 m3 race car. the dude is genius.

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I guess you missed all the post about the half moons not being in the gasket set. The crush washers for the banjo's are missing too.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/full-gasket-kit-content-10105aa720-203457.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Subbed to see where you end up with your splitter! Would love to chat with you down the road about your solution as my wagon is pretty much a pure track car now, but driven to the track. I need something that is fairly plug and play to install. That's all relative I guess. I've stood there and watched Gator attach his and it's not the quickest process :)
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