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cBax's OBXT build


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I'm honestly not 100% sure what the problem was. It may have been the auto ROM. I swear I've seen others that said it worked with the auto ROM, just had codes. I decided to just hook the trigger wire back up to the solenoid and see if it worked and it did. Clutch switch works as it should as well.

 

Im bypassing the key interlock stuff today and then I should be able to put the dash and console back together until the DCCD controller install.

 

Also fixed a nasty fuel leak right behind the alternator. Removed the alternator and went ahead and tightened all the clamps.

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Also fixed a nasty fuel leak right behind the alternator. Removed the alternator and went ahead and tightened all the clamps.

 

hmm, never thought of that.

 

can you get to alot of the little fuel clamps under the manifold from the alternator location? i mean, with tiny hands and screwdrivers?

 

would rather remove/re-install an alternator than the manifold.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick picture of the current state of the interior. Down to only the Airbag light (which the dealer cant pull a code for). You can also see the 5spd shifter bezel and boot.

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170123_164951-2_1.jpg

 

 

Met up with this guy yesterday for lunch. I've got the reins to the build for his new Outback that will be going much higher than this one. Going stock to stage 2+ ish as well. :spin:

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/16178803_1532384586795875_3152490956913828129_o.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, just after shooting that picture, we noticed the trail of rainbow snow under my car. Popped the hood, oil all over driver's side head. Yep, broke the oil filler tube pulling the battery earlier with the FMIC piping in the way. :redface:

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/16178453_1351281391612696_4089493931632072767_o.jpg

 

 

I've got another filler tube already. Going to try and do an oil change and swap it today.

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I am amazed at your ability to go out into your unheated garage and do this. It's currently 44 here. No way would I want to lay on a cold concrete floor and mess with car parts.

 

Your swap really made me want to to this too (although, 5mt to 6mt) so a little easier. Maybe next year.

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i got me some cheap puzzle piece foam pads from HF for like $8. put one or two under the car and crawl under and lay on it. plenty of insulation with that and my coveralls... for 44 degree weather.

 

I think cBax is working in far colder conditions. not sure i could even work up enough courage to walk into the garage knowing i'd be there for a bit in freezing temps.

 

i do also have a Mr. Heater on a propane tank. great for little projects in the garage. enough heating to get me going, and can always stand in front of it for a second to think of what's next and warm back up.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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Haha. Right now my work space is consumed with another car so I had to drain the oil in the driveway. The sti filler tube I got the other night doesn't fit. So I picked up a LGT one from someone else on the way home. Get home in the dark, 10 min late to leave for the local Subie meet, put the filler tube on and then pour 1.25qts on my driveway because that filler is cracked too. Only reason I didn't wait a day for the dealer was so I could get it to the meet. :spin::spin::spin:

 

I guess Ill take it. Could be worse. :lol:

 

I'm getting used to the cold garage. About 50% of my job is in there. Motivates me to get stuff done to warm up instead of over analyzing it. I can get it above freezing in sub-teen temps. And then its just about bundling up. I could easily finish the sheetrock and insulate, but I'm seriously looking for a shop and I'd rather put that money there.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

ELI5?

 

It is a fuel cut strategy, just like the Cobb (I believe). I've got it set to dump 60% more fuel, pull 20deg of timing and it's got a closed loop boost target. The LC rev limit is adjustable with the cruise control stalk up or down. This was 4500. lol

 

Yes, its on snows. And our test track in Mexico wasn't maintained very well.

 

Along with LC, Ive got a bunch more goodies to play with. Boost target by gear, WGDC by gear, Rev limit by gear, fuel enrichment by gear, map switching, auto-blip (which is way more fun than I thought it would be), FFS (which I doubt I will even turn on), speed density :) and flex fuel (I WISH WE HAD E85!!).

 

All the toys (auto blip, LC and FFS) can be put on the alt map. On my car full throttle + defog toggles between maps. SI Drive cars can use the knob or Eco button.

 

The FRS and DIT Subie has fully customizable maps that you can set up any input and output with a tunable map. Meth control, traction control etc. I am going to see if that is something coming to the turbo models soon.

 

I'll most likely utilize the connect app with my android head unit, basically turning it into an AP. Check out this video of them using it on a GTR. I'm told 04+ Canbus Subaru support with datalogging only is a couple weeks out and Android version is in beta. Full RaceRom support through the app in a few months. cant wait.

 

:spin::spin::spin::spin::spin:

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The app is pretty cool. I don't have any AP experience other than the laptop software on a couple Evos. No AP experience. But a couple people have told me (Im android..) that the demo on the app is a nicer interface than the AP. And if you have a nice phone, the screen is larger. I'm 99.9% sure you have to buy their adapter.

 

My 2500 RPM studder also disappeared with the new software. I didn't need to convert the DW1000s to ID1000s. I didn't have to convert to a STi FPR. I have access to a lot more maps that I didn't have in OS, some I couldn't find definitions for in OS. Overall, everything is more defined than Opensource. And tech support has been really easy to deal with and quick to respond.

 

I lowered boost on the first flash with this software. It's currently hitting 18psi and running clean. More boost on the next flash. Hoping to get close to 330whp/350+wtq on this vf52.

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I had the Auto Blip go active one time yesterday when I didn't want it at low speed clutch in. I'm pretty sure it's just because I lowered the speed threshold for testing. You can drive around it by not touching the brake first. It has to be Brake, then Clutch in. It works way better than I thought it would slowing down aggressively. The default RPM rise is a little high for me, but it's probably because 6MT.

 

I've got it setup with that stuff on the alt map, but the rest of the tune is the same.

 

I decided to go with EcuTek because they responded to my dealer application and I knew it looked to be competitive with the other options. At the end of the day I think it's a better value with a lot of the same features and some that aren't available anywhere else. Based on my limited experience so far with the software, my tune and with tech support...I am happy with the decision.

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  • 3 months later...

Mine will be on the dyno in a couple weeks. I may be swapping turbos with a customer beforehand. Nothing crazy bigger. Just too big for his application. Its a low reading dyno, so I wont get too caught up in numbers. I just want to dial it in. There is a local 1/8th mile shootout the weekend after. Im hoping to get launch control working better and maybe set up FFS. Maybe hurt some feelings in a wagon. Maybe not. But it will be fun.

 

Car is currently 4k over on an oil change. No DCCD controller. Still no rear sway bar since rear subframe rebuild and coilovers. Fully vented BPV w/ SD in vacuum. Still having stumbles at 2.5k. Dirty as all hell. Driven hard daily. Starting to get the hang of WOT shifting the 6mt. :)

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