WRX USA Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 You'll definitely want the 6MT shifter bezel/boot. The 5MT bezel makes it a little hard to get into reverse because it doesn't have a large enough opening (compared to the 6MT) and the boot from the 5MT won't work with the reverse lockout that's on the 6MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 I thought 6spd was a pull type clutch and 5spd is a push type. When we convert to a 6spd (even as a 5pd). I thought we replaced all that stuff shifter bezel / boot / master/slave from the 6spd. Is the 04 STI trans different? The push/pull comes from the slave and it's mounting. As long as I use a STi slave and clutch parts, I should be good. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 You'll definitely want the 6MT shifter bezel/boot. The 5MT bezel makes it a little hard to get into reverse because it doesn't have a large enough opening (compared to the 6MT) and the boot from the 5MT won't work with the reverse lockout that's on the 6MT. Hmmm.. The only modification I've read about is people using a 6mt shifter linkage to re-center the shifter. I haven't seen anyone saying they had to buy a 6spd shifter bezel and boot. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/6mt-master-swap-thread-107137.html?p=3072595#post3072595 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1568782&postcount=145 Honestly, the bezel and boot were the least of my priorities and if this thing is running and I have an open console, I'll still be super happy. Im assuming that Im looking at Spec B parts to make that work? '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 You might be able to get away without the trim/bezel piece but you'll still have to hack up your existing boot and make it work or you'll have to get a 6MT boot (but then you'll have to make that fit the smaller bezel). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Picked up a 5mt cross member and 4eat driveshaft last night. Going to get the 6spd and stuff today. Was hoping to get the rear axles with it, but apparently they are pending sale already. And he wants way too much for them. I was looking at using these custom races and adapting the LGT outers to the STi inners. The race is $175. My current axles are good. So I'm hoping I can find some cheap STi inners and save some $$ over the $650 OEMs. http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=275 '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Looking at reman axles. The STi ones are 120/pc at Rockauto. So around $420 total with the race kit. LGT remans are 90/pc. Around $600 total. If I was to buy those as well, I might as well buy new OEM Spec B axles for just a little more. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Picked up the trans, shifter, rear diff, slave cylinder and driveshaft yesterday. http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/15037060_1237643592976477_8261738450524644596_n.jpg Went ahead and bought the Spec B axles just to get that out of the way and not have worry about sourcing parts. Hopefully they ship soon. Also purchased my DCCD controller today from DCCD Pro. I was just going to do the manual controller, but talked myself into the universal auto controller. Just need a couple small parts from the dealer and I think I'm ready to dig into it. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Looking forward to this build coming together. Spec.B rear axles are stupid expensive. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 How is the transmission install going? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 I had a post written up last night and the upload wasn't working, so I canned it. haha Im knee deep in it. AND the rear subframe rebuild. http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/15823099_1506937426007258_1914288707267351419_n_1.jpg That pic is from last Wed, when I had planned to be done by now.... I was able to get the transmission, rear subframe/brakes/arms uninstalled on Thu. Then we got 2' of snow and lost power for 2 days. Today, a buddy came by and we assembled the repainted spare LGT subframe/arms w/ WL bushings throughout and adj WL arms. http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170101_162621.jpg All of the parts were sandblasted and then treated w/ Rust Bullet's metal prep and then painted with Rust Bullet (silver), then top coated with Summit Chassis Black spray paint. Tomorrow, I'm hoping to get the undercarriage cleaned up and treated/painted. It's not that bad, but there are rust spots I'd like to stop. Hopefully have enough time to get the transmission wiring figured out. The to-do list: - Rust proof/paint undercarriage - Fabricate 5eat --> 5/6MT crossmember - Install flywheel/clutch/PP - Integrate 5eat chassis plugs into 6mt trans plugs - convert shifter linkages from STi to Spec B, Install transmission, - Remove front subframe spacers (rear LCA mount already converted to LGT..) - Install STi steering joint - Install rear subframe and STi diff - Install new rear LGT backing plates, axles, hubs, parking brakes, new LGT rotors/calipers and pads - Install 4eat driveshaft - Install DP and cat back exhaust - Wire up DCCD Pro - Ground Pin 34 on B134 (need to dbl check) - Install 5MT clutch/brake assy - Install 5MT master cyl, SS clutch line, 6MT slave cyl, bleed - Wire clutch switch - Copy 5EAT maps to 5MT ROM, flash - Change oil, trans fluid and rear diff fluid - cross my fingers and fire it up '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 I should have left it all this color. http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20161228_115544.jpg Now black http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20161229_112844.jpg Who's smiling now!?!?! (yes, I painted an anti-seize smiley face on my TC...lol) http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20161229_145421.jpg '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 The trailing arms almost look like the aluminum SpecB pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Lost power for 2 days? All my food would go bad... That's crazy. But OMG you got a lot done... wow... very impressed. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Holy sh*t! You're making crazy progress here. I'm jelly of your rear subframe rebuild, my wagon could use one of those. Can't wait to see it all done! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 Lost power for 2 days? All my food would go bad... That's crazy. But OMG you got a lot done... wow... very impressed. Haha. It got down to 50 in the house. We have plenty of cold stuff outside to keep the food cold if needed. Thanks guys Getting there. No pictures. Yesterday I finished painting under the car and got the subframe in. I bought the SuperPro inserts that have to be modded to fit. The top inserts appear to be fine. But the bottoms squished out once I torqued the bolts. So I removed them and left the top ones. All of the little metal brake line sections on the trailing arms are seized and twisting the line. I bought some brake line to replace both of those line sections. And I managed to pull the crimped head off of both ebrake cables taking them out. Cables will be in at the dealer next week. I need my garage for work at the beginning of next week, so I'm considering assembling everything and running it with no ebrake hardware. Should be fine...thoughts? Right now I am going through the wiring diagrams, trying to find an easy way to wire up the transmission. It looks like I can utilize the existing circuits on the auto transmission connector on top of the bell housing. I'm either going to repin the trans side of the auto connector, or just cut and solder. There are 3 circuits (6 wires) going to the 6spd. Neutral switch, backup switch and DCCD. Here is the plan. Connector B12 is the 12 pin connector on top of the bellhousing. - Backup switch will go to pins 9&10 on B12. (This may not work, if not I just need a 12v source and run the other leg to pin 6 on the OP connector, B228) - Neutral switch will go to pins 11&12 on B12 - DCCD will go to pins 1&2 on B12 and I will pick it up at the TCM so I don't have to run wiring to the engine bay. Wiring diag shows that it's a straight run to the TCM, so I'll just be looking for the correct color (R & RW) to wire to the DCCD Pro module. To finish off the wiring, I'll need to also wire up the clutch switch to pin 1 on the B134 ECU connector and ground pin 34 to identify it as auto. One of these days, I'll get around to actually installing a transmission. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 I dreamt last night that I had to park on a hill, and with all my strength I couldn't pull the ebrake hard enough to keep the car from rolling. Bring a wheel chuck or two with you? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 I'll probably drive it around the block and get it out of my way, but I'm not planning to go on any trips. Wheel chocks will be in the car regardless.. Today got both the little brake line sections made up, painted the diff and the brake line brackets. Also picked up some metal for the cross member modification. Hoping to have the transmission ready to install by tomorrow evening. Then Saturday morning stab it in and try to get it moving by Sunday evening. The current to-do list: - Fabricate 5eat --> 5/6MT crossmember - Install flywheel/clutch/PP - Integrate 5eat chassis plugs into 6mt trans plugs - convert shifter linkages from STi to Spec B - Replace transmission output shaft and axle seals - Install transmission, modded cross member and mount - Replace rear axle seals, install diff and 4EAT driveshaft - Remove front subframe spacers (rear LCA mount already converted to LGT..) - Install STi steering joint - Install new rear LGT backing plates, axles, hubs, LGT rotors/calipers and pads - Install 4eat driveshaft - Install DP and cat back exhaust - Change oil, trans fluid and rear diff fluid - Bleed brakes - Wire up DCCD Pro - Ground Pin 34 on B134 - Install 5MT clutch/brake assy - Install 5MT master cyl, SS clutch line, 6MT slave cyl, bleed - Wire clutch switch to pin 8 on B137 - Copy 5EAT maps to 5MT ROM, flash - cross my fingers and fire it up - Install E brake cables and hard parts '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 That's one of those epic Roadkill show to-do lists. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 You may end up having to do some modifications to your dp after you fab the trans mount. I know we had to mod mine, but it was a 5mt dp. I do recall reading somewhere that even the 5eat will need finessing too. I do love what you are doing though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Rester, do you happen to have a picture of how you modified yours? Also, do you have an OBXT cross member or LGT? Front subframe spacers? The whole assembly will move towards the floor, but the point where the cross member mounts to the chassis will remain fixed, so maybe could get worse...or better? And do you have any details on the wiring that was done to yours? Did they re-use the 5EAT connectors on top of the bell housing? The only part I'm not 100% sure on is the Backup Lights. ESP Dave said he wired it into the OP Connector. Which definitely will work. Just have to supply voltage. In the attached wiring diag, you see the 3 options for the backup trigger, 5A (5EAT), 4A (4EAT) and MT (5MT). The problem is that the manual says the 4A only has an 8 pin B12 connector and this diagram shows pins 9 & 10. Then the Backup Relay for the 5A option doesn't have a plug at all, just goes straight to the voltage source and OP connector. Which means that may all be inside the cabin. The wiring is definitely there on B12, so I'm going to try it first. Otherwise, I just wont have reverse lights on startup and I'll have to wire it to the OP Connector. I'm also a little confused on which Neutral Switch to run. I have the 6MT one and a 5MT one. The logic is opposite from the 5MT and the 5EAT, see attached schematic. "P" and "N" are shown as closed circuits and the NPS is shown as normally open (unless it shown in shelf state and not "normal operation" state, maybe it's actually closed when the car is in Neutral) The 5MT one in my hand is an open circuit until I press the button. I've also read the logic is opposite from 5MT to 6MT, so people re-use their 5MT switch. I'm assuming that the logic will match 5MT with the correct ROM flashed and that I should use the 5MT switch. But others have gotten it working on a 5EAT ROM, just with some codes. hmmmm till next time! '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Here is the pin that needs to be grounded on the ECU to identify it as manual. Pin 34 on Connector B134. The "Joint Connector" is a ground circuit. The only thing I'm not 100% sure on is whether there is a wire in this location or if I have to pin it. I don't have any pins.. hmmm '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Yay! ebrake cables came in today! And while I had her on the phone, went ahead and got my missing rear strut bolts and broken ebrake clips on the way for tomorrow morning! Im not even going to post the To-Do list again... Today, I modified the cross member and painted that stuff, replaced the lower transmission shield with a manual one, and removed the flex plate. Tomorrow morning, I'll wire up the transmission, replace seals, install PP/clutch/flywheel and toss the trans in. Then it's aaaaaalll down hill. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Managed to get all that ^^ stuff done yesterday. Only had to install the trans 3 times to get it right. It won't go in if there are dowels in both the engine and trans and it won't work right if one of the wave springs fall out while you were repeating the the first install. Whodda thunk? Literally had the trans bolted up, cross member in, move the trans jack out of the way and one of the springs was sitting there from when it came apart after the first retry. I was heart broken. But my wife came out to the frozen tundra that is my garage and we knocked it out by 9. Up early today. High of 17, currently 9. Hoping I can get the garage up to 32. Go time! '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Magnusonsubie and I replaced my water pump yesterday. I had the garage door open all day as it was raining and he was in short sleeves My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 The current to-do list: - Install rear calipers, lines, pads and ebrake cables to body and shifter. - Install 4eat driveshaft - Install DP and cat back exhaust - Change oil, trans fluid and front/rear diff fluid - Bleed brakes - Wire up DCCD Pro - Ground Pin 34 on B134 - Wire NPS and Backup Lights from TCU harness to ECU - Install 5MT master cyl, SS clutch line, 6MT slave cyl, bleed - Wire clutch switch to pin 8 on B137 - Copy 5EAT maps to 5MT ROM, flash - cross my fingers and fire it up '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.