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cBax's OBXT build


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So close...

 

The current to-do list:

- fix brake line leak at drivers rear

- Bleed brakes again

- Install wheels, center caps off

- on the ground

- Torque axle nuts and wheel lugs

- Ground Pin 34 on B134

- Wire NPS and Backup Lights from TCU harness to ECU

- Wire clutch switch to pin 8 on B137

- Copy 5EAT maps to 5MT ROM, flash

- cross my fingers and fire it up

 

TBD because I'm tired and way behind on other stuff:

- Wire up DCCD Pro

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I think I've narrowed down the circuit causing the issue, but I'm really confused.

 

The clutch switch input to the ECU starts at Fuse 21 (start, 7.5A). That same fuse supplies voltage to pin 15 (the coil) of the Starter Relay. The Starter Relay switch is fed from the Ign Sw. Ive verified that the Start ckt has voltage at Fuse 21 and the Starter Coil when key is in the Start position. And I've verified that pin 13 at the Starter Relay also has voltage when key is in Start position.

 

I picked up the clutch switch ckt at the ECU, Conn B137/Pin 8/WL. Basically ran 2 wires there, inserted the switch into the ckt and that was that. I get 0v in Start at the toggle switch I am using with the wiring connected. The origin of this B137/Pin 8/WL wire is supposed to be coming from the same Fuse 21 ckt. I am getting 16+ volts on the body side of this ckt all the time once I unhook the connector from my switch, ECU side is dead (expected). And only 12-13 volts at the battery with my charger hooked up. Why is it hot all the time? Why only when disconnected from my switch? And why is voltage so high?....wtf. I think I need to go back to bed...

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This is simply fantastic. The facility with which you did the whole swap is just amazing! Looking forward to seeing how the fine tuning comes along, and I hope there aren't too many kinks to iron out!

 

Really wanna 6MT swap my wagon now.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Only real outstanding issues are:

 

- figure out why starter is getting no signal

- figure out why oil press gauge no longer works

- reassemble dash after ^^

- replace uego sensor that I stole a couple weeks ago for my mobile WB setup

- flash manual ROM

- properly adjust ebrake

- get aligned and snow tires put on

- wire up dccd pro

 

A lot longer list than I'd like, but I don't even care. I'm super happy with it.

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Now that I'm taking a breath, here are some pictures from the last several days and a video from this morning. I'm trying my hardest to take it easy on the clutch for a little while, but oh man I cant wait to get into WOT tuning with it. It's so friggin rowdy. I just hope I don't get in too much trouble with it. haha

 

This is the shop thermostat. Anything more sophisticated would be depressing. FYI, "slush" is waaaaayyy better than "rock solid ice."

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170109_073812.jpg

 

 

ACT HDSS and Street light flywheel

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170107_124130.jpg

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170107_154342.jpg

 

 

I copied ESP Dyno's (Dave) modification of the cross member. It was simple, easy and cheap. I was going to extend the middle section, but I think this was way easier. I didn't realize how close it was going to be to the trans, but it fits perfect. Aside from the DP mount (I bent the STi mount and made it work), no other cross member modifications were made. It's a 5eat LGT cross member with a 5" C channel (whatever thickness they had), a 5EAT down pipe and the front subrame spacers are removed. A OBXT cross member appears to have the potential to hit the DP at the back since it sits lower than the OBXT.

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170106_103706.jpg

 

 

OBXT vs STi steering joint. Notice the difference in the orientation of the top and bottom hardware. I basically installed it onto the steering wheel, eyeballed each front corner and slid it onto the steering rack. Alighnment was surprisingly close. Now fully converted to LGT geometry.

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170108_122445.jpg

 

 

Finally getting the tap out after spending hours on a 10 min task because I didn't do it the first time. Paint makes it way worse.

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/15940936_1515622151805452_2231276240374091123_n.jpg

 

R180 painted with Rust Bullet, new axle seals and r160 front flange installed.

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170106_145447.jpg

 

 

LGT rotors/calipers, Hawk HPS pads, new backing plates, new ebrake cables (I broke the originals removing...smh), new OEM hubs, new hard brake lines at trailing arm, half a Goodridge SS brake line kit, Whilteline bushings in every location, adj. WL arms, SuperPro top subframe inserts (couldn't use the bottoms), new Spec B axles

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/15826800_1516557855045215_5392033383284315801_n.jpg

 

 

3 pedals and a shifter! It pretty much still looks like this. haha

 

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170110_072159.jpg

 

 

This morning's first cruise

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjL6Clb-4uk]'05 Outback XT 5eat to 6mt swap first drive - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

Tonight's cruise. Loving the view!

 

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/IMG_20170111_164727.jpg

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I have. I'm just way behind on other work and I'll get back to it. All I need to do is set up a manual ROM and flash it. That should handle all of it. The tune needs work as well.

 

It also died on me once today. Not like an out of tune die. Like a loss of ignition. Cruising on the highway, 6th gear, 2500 rpm and motor goes quiet, I press gas and see boost gauge move up to 0ish, but nothing from the engine. It was still in gear and just came right back on after maybe 2 to 3 seconds. Hmmm

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I have. I'm just way behind on other work and I'll get back to it. All I need to do is set up a manual ROM and flash it. That should handle all of it. The tune needs work as well.

 

It also died on me once today. Not like an out of tune die. Like a loss of ignition. Cruising on the highway, 6th gear, 2500 rpm and motor goes quiet, I press gas and see boost gauge move up to 0ish, but nothing from the engine. It was still in gear and just came right back on after maybe 2 to 3 seconds. Hmmm

 

that would be one hell of a loose wire. random kill switch activation.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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My oil pressure gauge is intermittent as well. When I first parked it after the trans issue, the top of the motor got a lot of water on it and froze. I finally put a tarp over the hood and the snow kept out of the engine bay. I think the sending unit on the oil pressure gauge is toast (pass rear of block). Same area that has a engine connector. It was raining. I'll look it over and report back.
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So freaking rowdy. I love this thing. Rev matching downshifts with the automatic tune pulling timing is just too much.

 

And after driving a WRX today right after my OBXT, it's so crazy how much better it is. I'll have a 5mt OBXT next Wed to compare as well. I had driven probably a dozen STis until now...mine is my favorite. Im not sure if it's all the bushings or what. The thing seriously just feels like a race car and you just want to give it hell 24/7.

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Flashed a MT ROM today. No more canbus codes. Unfortunately it's throwing a "starter switch" code. I'm not sure if it is because I am bypassing the trigger wire or if the code is pointing to the reason it is not working when hooked up.

 

Also, the MT is revealing that these large side feed injectors need more work.

 

Other than that, it's running good. Oil pressure gauge worked all day, AFR is still where it should be. I may have boosted it a few times. Still hits target boost! Haha

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Also, the MT is revealing that these large side feed injectors need more work.

 

 

Im cringing at that fact that you have custom crafted a MT crossmember, rebuilt your rear subframe, done an entire 6MT swap(successfully).... and you're still using side feeds. :spin:

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Lol. I took on the challenge. I got them for 150 new! I'm going to give the DW1000s one more shot before I convert to top feed.

 

Converting to the manual ROM also has the benefit of a more fully developed ROM. The low pulse width tables are defined. I can now adjust the mpg readout. It was avg around 35mpg before lol. Now 20mpg from yesterday's trip. And now I can mod the ROM for speed density, launch control and ffs. :icon_twis

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Working on the driveability stuff a little today. Getting better but still needs work.

 

To do list:

- continue tuning

- figure out why starter is getting no signal

- figure out why oil press gauge is intermittent

- reassemble dash after ^^

- wire up dccd pro

 

front lip will be coming off soon, small push bar/FMIC protector will be installed, good rear hatch and bumper as well. I found both locally for a decent price and same color.

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