Moderators BarManBean Posted May 22, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 22, 2015 Trying to pop out the driver's side axle by undoing the castle nut at the ball joint on LCA, but the LCA does not want to pop down off that bolt/stud Maybe I'll end up pulling the tie rod BJ and LCA BJ since I have to redo the steering rack boot anyway... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 disconnect the sway bar. it holding the control arm up. at least it is when only one wheel is in the air. DO NOT try and remove the lower ball joint unless absolutely necessary. the pinch bolt is a real bear. and often bust, then requiring to be drilled. i usually loosen the top, struts to knuckle bolts. remove the top one and loosen the lower one. this will give enough room to remove the axle. BE SURE to mark the top strut to knuckle bolt before you remove it. it has to go back the EXACT same way to avoid a front alignment. it adjusts the wheel camber. but if you are also doing the rack bellows, and buying an alignment any way, it does not matter much. just make sure you do it all before the alignment. i would still mark the top bolt and count the turns on the tie rod end, this way you can test drive for days or weeks until the alignment with little or no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 23, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 23, 2015 Yup, sway bar is disconnected. I guess I'll just undo the strut. Had thought about that, just haven't gotten there yet. Going to go pick up a ball joint puller and tie rod tool set today as well, may as well get that stuff disassembled. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 24, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 24, 2015 Broke the first bolt--dust shield bolt Need to pick up a ball joint puller for the tie rod end. Everything else is undone to pull the driver's axle. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 24, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 24, 2015 Also got it re-titled yesterday w/ temporary registration (still need to pass safety and emissions ). Vanity plates are only $10 in Virginia, so I ordered up "POS WGN" "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 24, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 24, 2015 Popped the tie rod ball joint out. Axle is out. Time to order some replacement parts soon. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 26, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 26, 2015 Ordered up the following: Cam seals Crank seals Waterpump gasket Waterpump seal Thermostat and gasket Couple of axle nuts "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 26, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 26, 2015 For changing the timing belt...line up marks on crank and cam pullies...then remove belt...will the cam pullies want to spin under pressure? What direction can I safetly turn each one? Also, oil pump seal / oring--I don't think I ordered those. Will I need them? Anyone have part numbers? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 the passenger side will all be closed and the cam relaxed. the driver side is loaded and will spin , snapping the valves closed, if it is not positioned correctly. it should sit still even loaded if positioned correctly. NOTE: the arrows are not the correct timing alignment marks. the hash marks are. they are located on the front edge of the cam sprockets, and a rear tab on the crank sprocket. if the cam marks are correct, 12 oclock, and the engine was running , (correct timing) the crank will be positioned so that all the pistons are at mid-stroke. this means there is NO CHANCE of any damage , regardless of cam position. (you cannot see the crank timing mark until you remove the crank pulley.) when installing the new belt, look up the tooth count. relying on belt marks on an aftermarket belt may cause trouble. so count the belt teeth. compress the tensioner SLOWLY, they are easy to bust if you get in a hurry. install the lower passenger side smooth idler last. this usually allows you to get the belt on correctly with least hassle. after the belt and idlers are on, shove the tensioner all the wat towards the middle of the engine, bolte it down, and pull the pin to release the piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 26, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted May 26, 2015 Thanks! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 1, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 1, 2015 Progress! I was debating trying to get the car safety / emissions inspected before doing any major work, but just kind said eff it and dived in. Pull the radiator (I hate coolant with a passion) and got into the the timing a bit this weekend. Needed to know what kind of tensioner I need so I can order parts. Here is what I have things currently set at as far as timing marks and such. I think I'm good to remove the belt now, correct? Pics are of both cam gears and the crank pulley. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 yes, good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 2, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 2, 2015 Cam seals look ok so far. Definitely looks like power steering has been leaking down behind the rear cover. Is there an oring fix or something for that? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 #11 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/steering/oil_pump/illustration_2/ or maybe #4 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/steering/oil_pump/illustration_1/ i have not ever seen a leaking pump, just the 0-ring. the repair kit is about $35 i think. for the same money you can get a used pump assembly. how long are you going to drive the car? do you think the cam seals will leak before you sell it? "pay me now or pay me later?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 2, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 2, 2015 Yeah, looked around and a full pump reseal kit is $15 on rock auto. I'll probably pick that up and a reservoir oring. Truthfully, I don't know how long I'll drive the car. Hell, it may end up getting sold in the fall. That said, I have some time to work on it here and there and it doesn't have to get me to work right now and I would rather just fix the broken crap / leaks within reason. Am I gonna touch the body work or try to make things pretty? Nope. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hell, it may end up getting sold in the fall. at least while working on it , it will keep you out of the bars and strip joints. but if you sell it, what are you going to do then??????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 2, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 2, 2015 at least while working on it , it will keep you out of the bars and strip joints. but if you sell it, what are you going to do then??????? Guess I'd better finish the repairs and sell it then "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 3, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 3, 2015 aaaaaand no more timing. Pulled the belt, idlers, and waterpump tonight. Several idlers were suspect so definitely not questioning decision to replace. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 4, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 4, 2015 Finally grabbed a scan tool and pulled the codes: P0102 P0122 P1540 "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Nice write up always fun to dive into the project car whats funny about the 22Es is they look like shit due to seals and neglect yet they run for like forever You should seek out some old school Brat wheels the all white ones for that beauty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 4, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 4, 2015 This is no beauty, lol. I went ahead and grabbed an axle from Advance this morning. Want to get it back in and I can't seem to track down an OEM one and I'm not shelling out $300 for one I figure if the axle is bad at least it was a local purchase. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 4, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 4, 2015 Realizing that I didn't mark the three timing marks on my old timing belt. That sucks. Will the new belt come with those marked anywhere or can I count the teeth to be sure? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 P0102 MAF circuit, check the connector and the wires . P0122 TPS check the wiring and connectors P1540 front speed sensor because all of the wires go through the harness wiring connectors at the rear of the engine, i would check there first. the MAF and TPS are both on the harnees on the intake manifold. the speed sensor comes up from the trans. but all of the connectors are on the rear of the engine on the passenger side. check the connectors. if both the MAF and TPS were bad, i don't think it would start. but you will not know until you get the timing back together. the maf has been known to have a bad ''wire to connector'' connection at the maf. has the car been sitting? could it be mouse damage, wires chewed on? this is pretty common for cars parked or not driven much. the new timing belt MAY come with timing marks, but you will want ot count the teeth to make sure the belt is right. i would not assume the belt is correct. PS: the crank turns clock wise as you stand in front and look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 4, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 4, 2015 Sorry, meant to elaborate on those codes. The MAF code is likely just because I have it unplugged right now Car started fine and drove home when I bought it. Speedometer doesn't work though, which likely makes some sense with the TPS code...??? Car has been a low mileage per year car from everything I can tell, but hasn't been sitting really. Don't see direct evidence of mouse. Plan is to get the new axle in and get the timing R&R'ed and then start the sucker up again. Then I'll try to address the codes. Quick searching for both looks like I'm going to have to increase my multimeter skills. I SUCK with small wiring, but mainly just because I lack experience. Guess I'll have to practice. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 6, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted June 6, 2015 Pulled the crank seal, decided to hold on the cam seals until i get an actual seal puller. Using random hook shaped things just isn't worth the trouble. Also removed the power steering pump tonight, rebuild kit is on the way. Got the driver's front axle back in, everything hand tightened. Need to pick up some CV grease and reboot the tie rod end and should be able to button up that "area." I busted a few of the captive nuts or whatever on the rear timing belt covers. I'm leaning towards not replacing them to the tune of $60 or so, plus I would possibly need to add the gasket pieces there since I'm sure those would be shot, especially on the passenger side where the power steering leak has been going on. Also got my plates in the mail. DMV refused to give me "POS WGN" because it's "obscene." Give me a break! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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