Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

BMB's '97 Outback Sport 2.2L


Recommended Posts

  • Moderators
New crank / cam seals are in, cleaned up the water pump gasket surface. Also pulled the whole power steering pump out, plan to "rebuild" it aside from actually replacing the bearing/seal. Will likely replace the other orings in there tho along with the reservoir oring.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Moderators

So, the little bit of foam stripping in between the inner timing cover and the block is completely toast from power steering fluid leaking all over it. Basically just fell away on removal.

 

I was thinking about buying new rear timing covers and that stripping, but now I'm not sure it's worth spending any money on and may just bolt the cover back in place with no "gasket". Any issue with that? 2 or 3 of the captive nut houses broke but I figure a couple of zip ties or whatever should be fine there are plenty of other bolts that will hold the covers together.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

zip ties work.

i worried about the gasket as well until i learned that some folks run with no timing covers.

mostly off roaders,

it is EASY to replace the belt if you do not have to mess with the covers and the crank pulley.

 

so if the gasket is there i use it,

if not i do not worry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Reinstalled rear timing cover (right side). Water pump (gates, w/ OEM gasket) is in with new thermostat and gasket (OEM). Tossed the cam pulleys back on.

 

Nothing is really torqued down yet though. Need to track down the specs for all that.

 

I may be stuck/done until a couple of weeks from now--busy with family/work/other crap. Looks like the 1 month temporary registration will expire, maybe I can cancel insurance for a bit.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Moderators

Have had literally zero time the last couple of weeks because work has just been full of craziness. Finally spent a bit of time on the car this evening.

 

Started to put the timing belt on, but it seems that the marks provided on the Gates belt will not line up with the mark on the drivers cam pulley. Good on the passenger and crank pulley, but the line on the driver's side is marked in between teeth such that it either has to end up slightly left or right of the mark on the pulley.

 

What gives?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

If I line it up with the mark slightly left, I can't seem to get the bottom right toothed idler to bolt in and it is fairly slack between the crank and driver's pulley. If I line it up slightly to the right, I can install the bottom right toothed idler and there is less slack in the belt between crank/drivers pulley.

 

Leaning towards the latter since it seams to work.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the tooth count on one side is in fact xx.5 teeth, a half of a tooth.

try both and see which lines the cam sprocket hash mark up best with the notch in rthe rear timing cover.

one will be closer.

 

the mark on the belt is not as important as the hash marks lining up.

and it may adjust slightly when you release the tensioner.

turn the engine over by hand 2 full rotations and then re-check the hash marks for all 3 sprockets.

if one is off,

take note of which direction the sprocket needs to adjust.

and then re-do it.

you may want to hand rotate the crank BEFORE you release the tensioner.

 

it is a pain to have to compress the tensioner again,

so try to get it right the first time.

all sprocket hash marks in the 12 oclock position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Well, I think the tooth count is right but damn, the driver's cam just doesn't look spot on. Either way, I pulled the tensioner tonight and rotated and it seems the same each time around.

 

I may just start the car up tomorrow with no radiator to see how it idles. Any thoughts on that? Will it puke coolant if I only run it for 10-20 seconds? Is valve damage possible if the only issue is that the driver's cam is off by a tooth?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

both my ej22 and ej25 give me the same issues, and it bugs the hell out of me too lol. the ej22 has been running like a champ for a few years, and the ej25 is about to be tested. it holds the same spot no matter how many times i turn it over, so i think it will be good.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Moderators

This summer has been crazy, no time to work on this. Put the driver's side front axle / brakes back together last night, just need a couple of new cotter pins for the castle nuts and should be good to go.

 

Timing issue still needs to be sorted. I think it's correct but visually it's just a bit off. Going to set the radiator in place and hook up the hoses and start her up to check the idle and go from there. If it seems good I'll go ahead and refill coolant, etc.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Put the radiator in place and went to hook up the battery that had been freshly charged. NOPE! Aftermarket alarm starts going off the second I hook the battery up, and of course the FOB that came with the car doesn't function (I already knew that). So last night I went to bed wondering how big of an issue this would be...

 

Removing the power to the alarm at the battery didn't do anything, no big surprise. I almost just cut the siren out just to be able to figure it out in piece, but figured I would just try pulling the module out from under the dash. Lucky break and that seems to have done the trick without causing any further issues (knock on wood). Started the car, idle sounds just fine, going to proceed forward with the rest of the reassembly.

 

In retrospect, I probably should have just left everything alone and replaced the axle and just drive the damn thing. That said, it's been a good learning experience and now I know what's going on behind those timing covers.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

EEEEEFFFFFFFFFFF ME. I was hoping to have the car back together by tomorrow evening so I could go get it inspected, re-registered, etc on Friday for the upcoming week when my Dad will be in town and could use the car.

 

I was one lower radiator hose away from refilling coolant and realized i needed to torque the crank pulley. It's been a while since disassembly so I guess I didn't remember how to properly do that. So I grabbed a spanner wrench and held the drivers sprocket in place, turned the crank pulley. It kind of "popped" which I thought might have been the pulley or bolt seating funny.

 

Of course what was really happening was the crank sprocket was jumping timing. So now my crank is about 3-4 teeth advanced compared to the rest of the timing. Looks like I get to pull most everything off and redo the timing. Sucks.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

:)

 

If this was my daily I'd be super stressed. But it's not and that's the point. When I screwed it all up the other night is just grabbed a beer and went in to watch some TV with the wife. Will get back to it soon, lol.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Brief happiness...followed by BLEH.

 

Finished burping the coolant and took the car for a spin around the block. Hardly got out of the driveway. One, the newly replaced axle is clicking like a champ. Two, the car is stalling now sometimes just when driving and often when I get on the brakes to come to a stop.

 

Battery is first suspect as well as an extra ground wire that I temporarily removed there and will replace (not a stock ground, but maybe there for a reason).

 

Seems to idle quite well and motor revs up just fine so I don't suspect it's any issue with the timing. ABS light is also on, can't recall if that was the case previously or not.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Fixed the axle. It was not a parts issue, user error that was easily rectified. Not even gonna mention what the mistake was, LOL.

 

So now I need to re-insure it, get it inspected, and get it re-registered. Then should be good to go, yay!

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
Have you taken care of all the oil leaks?

 

No no, don't be silly!

 

I'm going to keep an eye on fluids to see what exactly is leaking, what is just residue, and what needs to be addressed. I think at some point I'll probably reseal the oil pan, possibly the trans pan--clean em up well while they are off.

 

I think the valve cover gaskets need some attention also, but right now I want to get it registered and drive it to see what pops up. I'd like to putter around in it for a month or so and if it seems reliable enough I'll tackle a couple of items on the OBXT (timing belt, valve cover gasket, etc).

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use