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2009 OBXT Engine Rebuild/Swap


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No you won'thave any problems...as long as you take it to an expert and pay the man to do what he does.

 

Didn't one of us tell you not to disconnect any of the lines ?

 

You just lay the AC, PS to the sides, do not mess with the hoses to them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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No you won'thave any problems...as long as you take it to an expert and pay the man to do what he does.

 

Didn't one of us tell you not to disconnect any of the lines ?

 

You just lay the AC, PS to the sides, do not mess with the hoses to them.

 

:rolleyes: I think it was two of us...

 

keenster I dub thee Hicksta #4 :hide:

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Made some progress tonight for sure after getting tips on the AC and power steering and such. I have also taken lots of pics today since Tris was harassing me for that (even though he isn't here to see them anymore :().

 

So here is my workspace. I put up tarps around the carport to cut back on leaves and dirt blowing in, and to try and trap some warmth from the space heater. It works well enough except for having to mess with the tarps every couple days when the wind blows them around.

 

16411364409_98aa2a0516_c.jpgIMG_0874 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

Here's all my parts storage and such. The fun bits are starting to pile up next to the OEM stuff coming off. The top shelf on the left set is OEM stuff that is not going back on the car. See anything you want? :lol:

 

16596015071_9034741ff9_c.jpgIMG_0878 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

16571217476_3fc4462d28_c.jpgIMG_0875 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

Perrin TMIC makes the OEM one look pretty anemic.

 

16411363509_9a8a022382_c.jpgIMG_0876 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

Normally, these shelves hold a chunk of my outdoor gear. The second and third shots are of my military gear and gun room just for the heck of it.

 

16597196815_d7b2515833_c.jpgIMG_0879 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

15977423543_9b1042dd48_c.jpgIMG_0880 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

16597196095_c277c379de_c.jpgIMG_0881 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

So on to the work from tonight...first thing off, alternator. I broke the piece that tensions one of the wiring connectors on this. Its the green one on the back side. Whatever that does. I figure it should still work just fine.

 

16411364949_ec4ef0687a_c.jpgIMG_0872 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

Next thing up was the AC compressor. One thing the FSM didn't seem to say anything about is removing the black plastic thing to the right of the compressor. I forgot to take shots of it I guess, and hell, I don't even know what it is exactly since it wasn't listed. I'm sure others here will answer in the posts below this one. There's two bolts on it and taking them and then removing it makes it much easier to get to a compressor bolt under there.

 

PRO TIP: This little nut right here is holding on a couple of hoses that make it hard to get to the last bolt on the back side. Unscrew and push them out of the way.

 

16571214786_b7d3394caf_c.jpgIMG_0885 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

And then you can reach the last nut way down in here...

 

15977421833_ef562e002f_c.jpgIMG_0888 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

And then, as others mentioned above, just lay the AC compressor over yonder and out yo way.

 

15977421593_0a08d41264_c.jpgIMG_0890 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

Looks like I had some small amount of oil leakage or overflow or something from the dipstick over time.

 

16596013491_98b96fd162_c.jpgIMG_0883 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

So here is how it looks at the moment.

 

16411359599_c2604da65f_c.jpgIMG_0891 by Team 1 Group Development, on Flickr

 

I did get some other small stuff done that I didn't get pics of...brake vacuum line and one of the ground straps are disconnected. Just small stuff in the order its listed in the FSM for pulling the engine. That brake vac line was a BITCH to get off. Its crazy how tight a little hose can grab hold of those nipples.

 

Also got part of power steering pump removal done, but didn't get it finished before leaving for dinner. I'll be back at it tomorrow.

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You asking about the harassing or the ban? On the harassing, he was just giving me grief for the thread being useless without pics. On the ban...yeah, at least as of yesterday evening, all his posts said Banned Member or whatever. I was actually on the phone with JmP talking turbos when I first saw it and he said sure enough Tris had upset someone and gotten banned. Sucks.
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You asking about the harassing or the ban? On the harassing, he was just giving me grief for the thread being useless without pics. On the ban...yeah, at least as of yesterday evening, all his posts said Banned Member or whatever. I was actually on the phone with JmP talking turbos when I first saw it and he said sure enough Tris had upset someone and gotten banned. Sucks.

:(

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You asking about the harassing or the ban? On the harassing, he was just giving me grief for the thread being useless without pics. On the ban...yeah, at least as of yesterday evening, all his posts said Banned Member or whatever. I was actually on the phone with JmP talking turbos when I first saw it and he said sure enough Tris had upset someone and gotten banned. Sucks.

 

WTF???

 

P.S. Love your car. Best color IMO.

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FWIW, I didn't use the manual whe nI removed my engine. Just think about what needs to be done, have a plan, make a list if you need.

 

Have you read my click here link ? sorry If I asked that already, I'm not re-reading this whole thread.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have read your click here link. And not using the manual is fine if you have any idea at all what you are doing under there. I don't. When I "think about what needs to be done" there's no context for me. I understand I have to disconnect things, but not knowing what I am disconnecting is not going to do me any favors when I am trying to connect it back in a logical way on the other end of this process.
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He's back!

 

I do have a copy. It's crucial.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Follow that for your teardown. Do you have baggies and a labeler, or at least a good sharpie?

 

Keep stuff in a certain area together, and, if you can help it, don't tear down the intake manifold too much. Actually, don't tear it down at all. Its a bitch to put back.

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I have definitely been following it. All that I have remaining is a couple bolts on the PS pump to move it out of the way, and then on to the tranny bolts. I do have baggies and a Sharpie that I have been using. I've also been screwing whatever I can back into the part it came from. So whether the threads are on the block or the removed item somewhere, I putting bolts back in by a few turns.

 

So, in other news, my girlfriend was supposed to have surgery this week but they cancelled it after blood tests. Word is I'm gonna be a daddy by this fall.:eek:

 

That may have some effect on my budget when it comes to the extra stuff I was still wanting. Things seem to have a different perspective now. At that same time, if I don't do it now, I am probably less likely to do it later. We'll see. At the same time, it also makes me reconsider having someone else do the work just so I can have it off my plate.

 

I'm walking outside right now to start back at it. My goal is really to get the block out today.

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So today's session was just really frustrating. I can't even get to half the transmission bolts. I don't see how you reach them. And using every bit of my strength is not enough to get the heater lines off of their attachments to the block. I don't understand how a ******* hose can hold so tightly to something. I considered just slicing them. I'm getting to a point where I am over this whole thing. Its already been 6 months and the block isn't even out of the car. I have no idea what I am doing and I don't really have anyone to help me. It will take me more months to finish it I am sure. I'm looking for places to take it.
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Go ahead and cut the hoses if they won't budge. You're going to replace them anyway. an old trick is to grab them with pliers and rotate them around where they are seated to break the seal loose. If this fails and the hoses are dry and brittle, just cut them.

 

Transmission bolts are tricky, but you will need to double up on box wrenches for a few of them or use a cheater to get them loosened most likely. I think I typically use a 3/8" socket wrench with the appropriate socket and a small extension as needed.

 

If nothing budges, spray some Kroil or PBlaster on the bolts.

 

 

Keep at it. This is the hard part. Install will be the reverse. When you do inevitably get the engine out, put some oil over the machined surfaces and the transmission quill. At this rate, it will probably be a bit before you get the engine in and it will help prevent rust and corrosion.

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A wobbly 14 does the trick for most of the engine and trans bolts, paired with a combination of extensions to reach over the axle.

 

Take the rad out, you're gonna need all the room you can get when yanking the motor out.

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What Tris says about the wobbles is great. Alternatively you can pull the axles out.. Its a little more work, but for what you're trying to accomplish it will make it worlds easier.

 

1 take both front tires off if you haven't already.

 

2 unbolt brackets for brake lines and wheel speed sensor circuit

 

4 Remove the axle nut. Have someone step on the brake. Use a 1/2" breaker and I think a 32 mm socket (I think?). Use a pipe for added length over the breaker bar. If you have access to air tools :cool:

 

5 mark with white out the relationship of the two bolts on the strut. Make sure you're marking the bolt head end and not the nut. The top of the two bolts controls camber/caster for alignment setting. This will keep it close enough when you go back together.

 

6 push axle through the hub. Use a BRASS hammer if necessary. At this time you will be able to pull the steering knuckle with brake rotor and caliper off the strut. Do it. It will take a little effort to get the axle past the knuckle.

 

7 insert screw driver or prybar between axle and transmission and pry it out.

 

Reverse procedure to imstall . axle will not just slide in. You will feel the splines line up and the axle will slide in very slightly. Then smack the opposite end with aa brass hammer until the axle seats again.

 

Sorry this has been painful for you. Perseverance is rewarding.

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