AMileHighLGT Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Not bad stuff, but, you should replace your turbo while you're at it. You don't want your old, possibly worn out turbo to shit all over your new block, do you? Send a pm to JmP6889928 and see about sending him your core and getting a custom VF40. This. Ask me how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Not bad stuff, but, you should replace your turbo while you're at it. You don't want your old, possibly worn out turbo to shit all over your new block, do you? Sorry, had to light that doubtfire in your mind. Send a pm to JmP6889928 and see about sending him your core and getting a custom VF40. Now's a good time, especially if you don't think you'll be up and running anytime soon --gives you, and most importantly, him, a good amount of lead time to get everything squared away. Where are you, tune-wise? AP? Going open source? Oh definitely. JmP and I are already talking. As soon as my turbo is off it will be mailed to him to use for rebuild. That's nowhere near the whole list. Hell, I don't even have the new block or other vital parts yet. I am just buying random shit I want to bolt on while I'm at it. I don't have any tunes yet. It just ran stock until it died. I have the AP now so that's what I will be looking to use. I will probably try to take it somewhere and get a specific tune for the car though once I finish all the upgrades. Probably have to either put a off the shelf Stage 2 on and just get it there or trailer it and then drive back once tuned correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 OTS Stage 2 will hold you for awhile. More importantly, see about getting a break- in tune. Low/WG boost and revs under 4500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 So if I am doing upgraded TMIC, JmP turbo improvements, high flow down pipe, phenolic spacers, lightweight crank pulley as improvements to either the engine's ability to make power, or transfer the power it has to the ground more efficiently, what other pieces should I consider without going crazy? Are there key small bits I want to add with some of those larger pieces? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Only other thing would be new OCVs, but, I think you already have those, right? You're about where one should stop, as the car will be completely transformed by the time you get to drive it again. At that point, you'll want to focus more on suspension and brakes. Group N engine mounts-- you haz them, too, right? Edit: Just checked your parts list again-- you're golden. Don't go any further on power mods unless you're prepared to go for more fuel and a bigger turbo. But, harness and properly utilize the power you already have before you go further - Good job! Now get it all together and drive it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 For good measure you could replace some water hoses in those not so easy to get to places after it's in. Get some block off plates and remove the air pump. Go crazy and TGV delete. To name a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 For good measure you could replace some water hoses in those not so easy to get to places after it's in. Get some block off plates and remove the air pump. Go crazy and TGV delete. To name a few. Oh, yeah. This. Take that shit out! Get the air pump block off plates and do the TGV deletes. Or buy a really nice, already done set from Busted Finger Motorsports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 It's nice to see I'm thinking in the same direction as you guys with more experience. TGV delete is definitely on the list. There's actually a set on the forum classifieds right now that's already done and ported and polished. Thought about just grabbing those. And suspension is def being done too. I already have Whiteline sways on the car. For suspension specifically, parts on my spreadsheet but not shown here yet since they aren't purchased yet include: LCA bushings, AVO front and rear underbody braces, and...the biggie...BC coilovers. Gonna just go full on with it and skip the LGT spec KYBs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Sorry, just found this thread, you'll want to read my click here link to see what I did. I'm not a big fan of the hassle of the TVG deletes for a DD. Good Luck 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Made some progress today. Battery, airbox, and TMIC all came off the car. Also started disconnecting some of the wiring harness and other hoses. Right now I am being held up by the need to drain fluids. My carport is so low that I cannot jack the car up AT ALL without taking the hood off. Hoping to have an extra set of hands to do that tomorrow. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/04/6306157d165f05d24230017d617345d1.jpg Parts are continuing to roll in. I think the Perrin TMIC is the only purchased item I am still waiting on. Gasket kit, OCVs came today. Check the first post for a running update on purchased parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Turbo and down pipe came off today. Also got all remaining fluids drained other than the AC refrigerant. I'm still trying to figure that out. I got the vacuum pump from Autozone but feel like I am missing something. Do I not need a tank of some sort for the refrigerant to get pumped into? They didn't give me any such thing or any gauges. I'm planning to research more tonight so I can get it done. Valve body is next to come out so I can get it off to IPT for rebuild. Turbo appears to be in great shape to my untrained eye. No movement in the shaft that I can find. It's headed off to JmP for rebuild. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/17/0de281b6b246d2a9371d7550a35d9e7f.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Turbo and down pipe came off today. Also got all remaining fluids drained other than the AC refrigerant. I'm still trying to figure that out. I got the vacuum pump from Autozone but feel like I am missing something. Do I not need a tank of some sort for the refrigerant to get pumped into? They didn't give me any such thing or any gauges. I'm planning to research more tonight so I can get it done. Valve body is next to come out so I can get it off to IPT for rebuild. Turbo appears to be in great shape to my untrained eye. No movement in the shaft that I can find. It's headed off to JmP for rebuild. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/17/0de281b6b246d2a9371d7550a35d9e7f.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That's because you need to be certified to work on AC systems, I believe. What you're missing, I believe, is a manifold. You sure you want to spend the nearly $1k for the IPT valve body?? There's no rebuild, per se. They just add a different spring. A tiny, fifty cent spring. See the Hexmods thread for more info on that. Otherwise, your stock vb will hold stage 2 power just fine. Good call on the JmP rebuild! Take more pictures! Let's see those greasy fingers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Not bad stuff, but, you should replace your turbo while you're at it. You don't want your old, possibly worn out turbo to shit all over your new block, do you? Sorry, had to light that doubtfire in your mind. Send a pm to JmP6889928 and see about sending him your core and getting a custom VF40. Now's a good time, especially if you don't think you'll be up and running anytime soon --gives you, and most importantly, him, a good amount of lead time to get everything squared away. Where are you, tune-wise? AP? Going open source? ^^^This^^^ I will second the JmP6889928 turbo. Loving mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Made some progress today. Battery, airbox, and TMIC all came off the car. Also started disconnecting some of the wiring harness and other hoses. Right now I am being held up by the need to drain fluids. My carport is so low that I cannot jack the car up AT ALL without taking the hood off. Hoping to have an extra set of hands to do that tomorrow. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/04/6306157d165f05d24230017d617345d1.jpg Parts are continuing to roll in. I think the Perrin TMIC is the only purchased item I am still waiting on. Gasket kit, OCVs came today. Check the first post for a running update on purchased parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Just a suggestion, but if I could do it all over again (which I did LOL) I would disconnect the wiring harness main connector, brown connector in back, ground straps, up sensor, coolant hoses, take off the down pipe, AC pump, ALT, steering pump, and pull the engine like that without taking anything else off. It will save you a ton of time/headache. Put the engine back in the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 In response: Tris- That's all good and well, but I'm not really working on it per se. Just need it empty. My point is it would seem like AZ should rent the whole get up if they're gonna rent half of it. The guy at the counter seemed like he was just as unsure what I needed as I was so I'm still thinking I probably just need to go back for whatever I don't have. The IPT valve job is 669. Hell maybe it is nothing more than a spring but they seem like a pretty reputable shop so I'd hope they aren't making up the other 668.50 in spring related labor. Even if all that is labor, hopefully it's to make some other adjustments as well. People posting in the 5EAT thread seem pretty happy with their trannies when doing that in conjunction with a cooler and such so I'm gonna give it a shot probably. On pics, I actually had the camera out there and everything. Just didn't seem anything worth shooting. Cloudseed- Thanks for the tips. Figuring out what does and doesn't have to come off in order to actually pull the block has been a question for me. I know I am taking off some stuff that doesn't have to be off first at this point, but my buddy hasn't brought his lift back over yet so I'm just trying to keep some forward motion. The AC pump, alternator, and steering pump gives me some ideas on where to put my energy next. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Jmp6889928 is a great guy!!! Can't wait to finish my install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Okay. How are guys dealing with the AC system? The more I read, the less I feel like I need to be trying this step myself. I definitely do need the manifold gauges, and then it sounds like I also need a 30lb tank for the refrigerant. Neither of which I have. Did you guys do this yourself? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 As for MrTris and the MVAC guidelines. http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/justfax.html MVAC test isn't hard it's open book literally. I have my universal but never bothered to take the test as I scrapped that career choice when locals made it hard to shadow them. I was deployed when the engine was pulled, but mine is still in tact. I theory you don't need the gauges but they sell them at auto zone for like $100 or something crazy like that. I have the home gauges that need the adapter for MVAC applications. How far did you get on reclaiming the refer in the system if you have no tank to put it in? 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 You don't need to disconnect it at all. Just hang the HVAC pump off to the side with a bungee cord. Same with the steering pump, although I drained mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Can't wait to see how this turns out. My 18g will be going to JMP if i can ever get a week with out an issue. My car has been needy the past three weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 I'm rebuilding the car with the G16 (20K) but will at some stage get the original stock VF40 (140K) rebuilt with Jim. Hope you guys are keeping him busy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 You don't need to disconnect it at all. Just hang the HVAC pump off to the side with a bungee cord. Same with the steering pump, although I drained mine. This is correct, I should have been more specific. Take the AC pump and PS pumps off the block, but do not disconnect any of the lines. You can sort of flop them - tie the AC pump into the area where the battery goes, and flop the PS pump over to where the air-box was. No need to disconnect anything, but as kzr750r1 says above, drain your PS pump or you will have a mess under your car like I did. Another tip on the AC pump. Take the large bracket that holds the ALT off to get to the bolts that hold the smaller bracket on it for the AC pump. Trying to remove them in it's place is a real PITA and this will save you time. Here you can see how I pulled the AC and PS pumps into the fender area. I used a wire clothes hanger to hold the AC pump in place. http://i.imgur.com/STGURUt.jpg?2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Hammer not included in this procedure. Message brought to you buy the been there done that crew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoRoadtrippin Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Awesome. You guys have definitely filled in some of the blanks for me now. I'll try and get back at it tomorrow for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 You don't need to disconnect it at all. Just hang the HVAC pump off to the side with a bungee cord. Same with the steering pump, although I drained mine. Steering not A/C right? I also got mine off to the side but didn't drain it yet.Wanted to slowly refresh and o ring same time as brake fluid. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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