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How to BLACK OUT the headlight


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Ugh, i've got some condensation in my passenger-side light. :( I think I'll probably try to redo the seal before going through the processes above though.

 

Dang. Thankfully, the driver-side looks fine at this point.

 

Here's a crazy thought.. What if you poke a tiny 'breather hole' somewhere in an out-of-the way spot on the back where the hot moisture could escape? I mean, it involves mutilating the light housing a bit, but since it's not a true sealed headlight, would that cause any problems? It would allow the moisture to evaporate out if it was left in the sun.

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Here's a crazy thought.. What if you poke a tiny 'breather hole' somewhere in an out-of-the way spot on the back where the hot moisture could escape? I mean, it involves mutilating the light housing a bit, but since it's not a true sealed headlight, would that cause any problems? It would allow the moisture to evaporate out if it was left in the sun.

 

theres this cap behind on the back of the light that you can take off, ive taken that off when my lights fogged before. eventurally, all the condensation is gone. But, it still leaves a white water marks all over the inside of the light. Might as well just seal it right in the first place.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Gitster

FWIW The Torx screws are self tapping. There was talk earlier about stripping the threads, etc. Self tapping screws make their own threads when assembled, so they really arent meant to be removed and replaced repeatedly. They are however meant to cut through the plastic, so stripping is very possible, but as long as they are secure, they're doing their job.

 

I was thinking about replacing them with an allen head or something easier to remove, but the threads created by these screws do not match conventional metric threading, much too coarse.

 

Im pretty sure Subaru used these screws in design for ease of assembly, but it also turns out they designed them for un-ease of dis-assembly. Just be careful with them and theyll be ok, but if not re-assembled properly, they will cause the seal to not be so tight.

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  • 2 months later...
I blackhoused the lights a while ago following the original instructions posted by the thread starter. I had the reflectors taken off. Then it started to leak because the seal wasnt good enough. So after having redoing this light couple times and eventurally to another pair of lights, i am pretty confident about the proper way to opening and sealing.

Same tools

+13x spring clamps(from home depot)

+2x different silicone sealant(1-strongest silicone you can find for gasket, 2-a regular silicon sealant that matches the color of your light(black/dark grey))

 

OPENING

-bake at 280 degree (6-7mins) //it will be a little bit harder to open, but there will be less of the *spider-web effect*

-unscrew the 4 screws

-take the light apart

-3 screws take out the middle piece

 

My current light setup is flat black corners with reflectors. Flat black match the front, thats why i go flat black so it looks stock. I kept the reflectors because i think that the car look less ricey for me. And some cops do give you ticket for no reflector. But you know what, with the reflectors AND blackhoused corner, the reflector looks like a dark orange instead of that nasty yellowish look. So i think the car looks a lot cleaner if all you do is paint the corners flat black.

 

RESEALING

-after reinstalling the middle piece, gently put the outside cover on the light.

make sure the position is right, and start tapping it in.

-eventurally, the outside piece should go in, then squeeze it together, or hug it like i did :)

-bake it at 250 degree for 10mins.(DO NOT ADD ADDITIONAL SILICONE OR CLEAN OUT THE ORIGINAL SEALANT)<-if you put too much, the light wont seal correctly.

-screw the 4 screws back in from outside towards inside.

(MAKE SURE, that you dont leave more than 1mm of gap when you seal the light)

-start clamping the light (USE A PLIER to hold it down before you clamp it) clamp the light from right after where the screws are all the way to the opposite end of the light. Make sure you have 2x clamps for the opposite side(the side without screws)

-Let it sit for 1hour

-Use the strong silicone sealant and lightly apply them around the entire light. it should settle into the 1mm gap. do the top first or bottom first, either way, this part will take about 1.5hr. 45min for each side to harden.

-Use the 2nd silicone sealant(that matches the color of the light) and apply it top and bottom, same way. To make it look clean, use a plastic knife and gently guide it flat over the 1st sealant.

-Thats it, enjoy your unleakable light ;) (one day DIY job...btw)

http://www.imghut.net/images/326.jpghttp://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s253/blklgt05/OTHERS/2.jpg

 

http://www.imghut.net/images/328.jpghttp://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s253/blklgt05/OTHERS/1.jpg

;)

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^LOL good job on the clamps things!!! Me and doctorchu were having so much hard time clamping the headlights together barehanded.. i wasn't much help tho, he's got more muscles

 

but good thing it was done the first time

 

 

and Gary^ i'm like the way your headlights look, blacked out with reflectors, different and yet it should've came with that stock :D

○ ○ ○

Instagram: itshangertime :spin::spin::spin: ○ ○ ○

 

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Guest Gitster
The lip should only be attached to the bumper. Its the same process in removing the bumper. Just becareful when removing the bumper not to damage the lip...
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i decided to put the ambers back in, with a twist..I had a little tail tint left over from when my wife had a Focus that I tinted the tails on, anyway to make a long story short I used some of it on the straight piece that holds the amber in place...turned out pretty nifty..I will post some picks when I get a chance...
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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Gitster
Nah, just a frame of reference. Hehe, its your car man. SWP owners sometimes prefer the orange bulb with the cleared lights. Ive seen it in person.
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Nah, just a frame of reference. Hehe, its your car man. SWP owners sometimes prefer the orange bulb with the cleared lights. Ive seen it in person.

 

Understood, I could see that when they are cleared, but blacked out, I think the reflective bulb offers some nice contract to the dark housing...

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i really need to do this mod...

 

im just afraid of taking off my front bumper...how long does it take to remove that??

 

the only thing ive done to my car is fiddled with the intake and removed the intake silencer

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i really need to do this mod...

 

im just afraid of taking off my front bumper...how long does it take to remove that??

 

the only thing ive done to my car is fiddled with the intake and removed the intake silencer

 

It really is as simple as it sounds. A few pop-its from underneath, a bolt here and there and everything is off and the bumper is dropped. If you have any questions, shoot me a PM.

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