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How to BLACK OUT the headlight


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My input on the subject...if you got balls this is no big deal. I will accumulate the materials (3m low-stick masking tape, black primer spray paint, black gasket making stuff [i don't remember the name], and bulbs) and must now wait for time in my busy schedule to set aside an entire day to do this (when working on vehicles, plan on it taking longer than you think it will and it will probably take just a little longer than you planned. I'll be posting step by step pics when I'm done as well as exact oven tempurature and time. One post suggested using "Silverstar bulbs" by Sylvania. They look cool when when not illuminated, but light up bright enough orange for cops to like. He had a picture of the packaging for the bulbs and I wrote down the model number as 3157A/4157A ST. BTW, I saw a pic with the headlights in the oven and a baking sheet with tinfoil was used to set the light on. This is a great idea to make sure the heating element doesn't heat up the bottom of the light too much.
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I wish a post like this existed before I took this on, so I hope this will help others save time and worry.

 

First: remove grill (if you can't figure this out, this is how to know you probably shouldn't take on this project).

 

Second: remove bumper by removing pops along bottom and one behind each inner-fender (the plastic inner-fender bends back for access to pops). Be sure to unplug fog lamps after bumper is loose. Note: I recommend keeping screws and pops in piles ordered by first to come off/last to go back on (see 2nd pic).

 

Third: I found that removing the steel support under each headlight made it very easy to remove the headlights. This involves removing eight 10mm/philips screws and two pops (All easy to get to...see 1st pic).

 

Fourth: remove headlights by unplugging two plugs and giving a careful tug. Then remove three bulbs from housing (see pic four).

 

Fifth: remove four torx screws from back of headlight housing (also pic four).

 

Sixth: bake lights (see pic five). In my oven 190 degrees for ten minutes was perfect (this took some trial and error). If your oven is not convection (like mine) I recommend flipping half way (it gets hotter at the top). Also, use a baking sheet and tinfoil to avoid the heating element getting the bottom of the light too hot.

 

Seventh: pry open lights (this will take some careful strength). I found this to be easiest when the light was just cool enough that I could grip it with my bare hands. Set aside back part of light housing.

 

Eighth: remove three torx screws and gently remove big chrome piece with attached amber reflector from the clear plastic piece that is the very front of the whole thing (I guess I'd call it the lense...see pic 6).

 

Ninth: remove clear, then amber reflectors from big chrome piece (they are attached together and come out together with two tabs from behind (see pic 7). If you are not blacking headlights and only removing amber, re-install clear reflector and skip to step twelve. If you are blacking out, go to next step.

 

Tenth: tape as seen in picture with "sensitive" material 3m masking tape (the sensitive will keep the chrome from peeling). As said earlier in this thread, a good quality exacto-knife will make this step much easier...take your time! Make it look nice. (see pic 8) Note: I chose not to sand the chrome before painting. So far so good. Also, tape the back of the round chrome part too or over spray may find it's way onto the round chrome part (tape the back of the piece taped blue on the far right of pic 8). I learned this the hard way.

 

Eleventh: I used three coats of primer and would work on one light while the other was drying. I used a blow-dryer here and there to speed things up. Don't spray too much at once or it could drip.

 

Twelfth: remove tape and re-install clear reflector, then put newly cool looking black and chrome piece (on left of pic 8) back into big clear plastic "lense". Re-install three torx screws.

 

Thirteenth: I pressed the two pieces back together firmly and baked at 190 for ten minutes again, then pressed them the rest of the way together and re-installed the torx screws tightening them in a star pattern. I went without applying the gasket compound I bought and am optimistic this won't matter. These lights are not sealed, so if condensation should by some chance occur, the light can be taken apart and cleaned out.

 

Re-assemble!

 

Note: Pay close attention when you take it appart and it will make putting it back together very smooth. I had no problems. Timeframe: I removed the bumper and lights the night before and spent the next day from noon until about 5 or 6. Hope this helps...happy baking!

:icon_wink

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Oh! I used the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs in the picture...they're cool...they are purplish when not illuminated and bright orange (legal) when they are. Only like twelve bucks. Model number 3157A/4157AST.
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holy hard reading batman!

 

there is a step by step posted on this site....i could of swore there was. You just have to follow the normal clearing steps and then simply paint it....but alas

 

Format your text a little better to make it easier on the eyes

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lol. Ya, sorry 'bout that. I'm new to this forum and didn't realize what it would look like in one GIANT paragraph. My next one will be better. Just trying to help.

 

 

you can use the EDIT button to go back and reformat text. You cannot however edit your attached pics

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thirteenth: I pressed the two pieces back together firmly and baked at 190 for ten minutes again, then pressed them the rest of the way together and re-installed the torx screws tightening them in a star pattern. I went without applying the gasket compound I bought and am optimistic this won't matter. These lights are not sealed, so if condensation should by some chance occur, the light can be taken apart and cleaned out.

 

did you wait until the lights had "cooled down" until you tightened the torv screws? i thought i read somewhere that some person tightened them while they were too hot and it didn't screw in all the way (or ever again)

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did you wait until the lights had "cooled down" until you tightened the torv screws? i thought i read somewhere that some person tightened them while they were too hot and it didn't screw in all the way (or ever again)

 

if they never tightened, that means he stripped them, probably from tightening them too tight...

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yeah chances are that is what he did...if you wait till it cools you run the risk of stripping too, I would assume, as its harder to pull the assembly together and its only plastic. When its still warm, the silicone will pull together much easier, and allow it to dry in the position that the headlight will stay in.

 

(if that makes any sense)

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The torx screws will strip out easier when the plastic is hot. When screwing them in, tighten until there's a little resitance on each, then tighten them one at a time... tightening a little more each time while going around the light in a star pattern so the pieces come together evenly (this will help prevent condensation). Push the peices together firmly as you go around. It's good to do this while the lights are still warm because it will help the compound seal better. Just FEEL the screw. BE the screw. Only THEN, young skywalker, will you know if your doing it too hard. :)
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I just finished doing mine today, with new bulbs from Daniel Stern, as well as a lip from FastWRX.com

 

So, lets go!

Bumper gone..

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0224-2.JPG

 

old bulbs & wiring, removed.. in you go! 200 degrees for 10 minutes was good, 190 took 12 minutes or so. Gotta do it quick when it comes out though, because as it cools, the glue sets back up.

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0225-2.JPG

 

I think the reason people might be stripping the chrome paint is because they're not letting the lights cool down. I put mine outside in a 45 degree day for 15 minutes and I didn't lose any chrome to the tape.

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0227-2.JPG

 

Best masking job on planet earth? No. Passable? I guess so. :)

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0228-2.JPG

 

Painted, with the tape removed. Getting there!

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0229-2.JPG

 

Reassembled.. Time to reinstall!

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0230-2.JPG

 

Here they are, with my new bulbs.. Osram Rallye 65s, HIR Highs and Gold fogs.

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0232-2.JPG

 

three-quarter view..

http://fantastipotamus.go-dedicated.com/images/specb/headlights/IMG_0233-2.JPG

 

The whole thing took from 10:00 to 4 or so, which included some finagling with the lip too..

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Just a preference thing.. I prefer them in a little more rather than out. :)

 

 

yeah same here. and plus i don't know all the laws and it would piss me off if i had to redo my headlights because they needed the reflectors. and its not as ricey. :-p

 

hmm... yeah i need an accessport too.. good idea

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I just finished doing mine today, with new bulbs from Daniel Stern, as well as a lip from FastWRX.com

 

So, lets go!

Bumper gone.. ...

 

Those last two pictures make you my hero. And I agree, get with the program COBB!!! (yes, that is a pun)

lol
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Properway to OPEN & RESEAL

 

I blackhoused the lights a while ago following the original instructions posted by the thread starter. I had the reflectors taken off. Then it started to leak because the seal wasnt good enough. So after having redoing this light couple times and eventurally to another pair of lights, i am pretty confident about the proper way to opening and sealing.

Same tools

+13x spring clamps(from home depot)

+1 tube of black silicone sealant

 

OPENING

-bake at 280 degree (6-7mins) //it will be a little bit harder to open, but there will be less of the *spider-web effect*

-unscrew the 4 screws

-take the light apart

-3 screws take out the middle piece

 

My current light setup is flat black corners with reflectors. Flat black match the front, thats why i go flat black so it looks stock. I kept the reflectors because i think that the car look less ricey for me. And some cops do give you ticket for no reflector. But you know what, with the reflectors AND blackhoused corner, the reflector looks like a dark orange instead of that nasty yellowish look. So i think the car looks a lot cleaner if all you do is paint the corners flat black.

 

RESEALING

-After reinstalling the middle piece, gently put the outer cover on the light.

make sure the position is right, and start tapping it in.

-The outer light cover piece should go in evenly, then squeeze it together, or hug it like i did :)

-Bake it at 250 degree for 10mins.(DO NOT ADD ADDITIONAL SILICONE OR CLEAN OUT THE ORIGINAL SEALANT)<-if you put too much, the light wont seal correctly.

-Screw the 4 screws back in a symmetrical manner until it is snug, but don't tighten it yet.

(MAKE SURE, that you dont leave more than 1-2mm of gap when you seal the light)

CLAMP

-Start clamping the light and (USE A PLIER to hold it down before you clamp it) clamp the light from the highbeam side all the way to the the signal side.

-It is important that you clamp from the very end first, then top and bottom of the lamp all the way to end near the 4 screws. (but not to the end of the lamp)

-Let the sealing began for about an hour

SILICONE

-After the clampings, use the silicone sealant and lightly apply them around the entire light. It should be a really thin line on the seal, and more at around the parts where screws are. Just dont over kill it(it will get messy).

-You have to do one part at a time, one side at a time as it does take some time(about 30-45mins) for the silicone to cure(but its still not cured 100%, just stable) Use the back side of a plastic knife and gently guide the silicone into the thin gap of the light.

-After it settles, initiate a 2nd layer of silicone and guide it flat over around the light. Use painter's tape on the edges so it looks clean and make sure you don't get any silicone on the front surface of the light. If you do, use bug/tar remover (like the one by rainX), spray it on and use clean water to rinse it off.

 

-Thats it, enjoy your light ;)

http://www.imghut.net/images/326.jpghttp://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s253/blklgt05/OTHERS/2.jpg

1-1

 

http://www.imghut.net/images/328.jpghttp://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s253/blklgt05/OTHERS/1.jpg

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