CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

[Max Capacity]

just as long as you don't lover the car...

 

Good eye, I've been staring at the pics and resizing them for too long.

 

FWIW, My wagon is 1" lower (koni and Epic's) and I have to use 2x6's about 18" long so my front bumper doesn't hit my ramps.

[covertrussian]

Hey Covert, I noticed right away after installing the Tomei ELH + up pipe that wideband reading at idle had increased from 2.5v to 2.8v ,while the o2 is hollding at stoich 14.7 I properly recalibrated the wideband and went as far as replacing the sensor. Nothing changed

 

Any ideas? care to look at any logs prior to swapping out the header and current ?

This is the wideband That I'm using:http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tuning-alliances-wideband02-logging-kit-258451.html

 

Jason

 

To make sure I understand this correctly, your wideband voltage increased, while that same wideband is still reading 14.7? My wideband is not giving out voltages, just the AFR's, so I can't say that my voltage changed.

 

Now it is common to have a hunting 14.7 AFR in closed loop. Basically because cats need fuel, ECU will dip into 14.3ish, then go back up to 15ish to provide more air to burn that fuel. This is normal operation and would cause the o2 sensor to have different voltages.

 

 

FWIW, My wagon is 1" lower (koni and Epic's) and I have to use 2x6's about 18" long so my front bumper doesn't hit my ramps.

 

I'm thinking about doing something similar, or a pre-ramp for my current ramps.

[Jaybird2013]

Sorry , these are two different readings. One from the OEM o2 sensor from the header, and the other from the LC2 wideband kit.

 

I monitor those parameters constantly on my AP. The wideband kit is configured to take the rear 02 input signal and convert it to volts, and yes volts increased with doing nothing other than swapping out my stock header for the Tomei ELH. Didn't mean to clog your thread, should of sent you a pm.

Edited May 8, 2017 by Jaybird2013

[covertrussian]

Sorry , these are two different readings. One from the OEM o2 sensor from the header, and the other from the LC2 wideband kit.

 

I monitor those parameters constantly on my AP. The wideband kit is configured to take the rear 02 input signal and convert it to volts, and yes volts increased with doing nothing other than swapping out my stock header for the Tomei ELH. Didn't mean to clog your thread, should of sent you a pm.

 

Oh that's fine, might help someone else too .

 

Do you have associated AFR values? I did see leanness at WOT, but not at idle (though my front O2 sensor might be compensating for it).

[chestercopperpot]

I got it from a friend, it should be the S204 ebay special lip

 

 

 

Thanks man! When you live where I live, in the middle of no where, there aren't many tuners or trusty import car mechanics. So necessity forced me to learn how to do all of this stuff .

 

I will be honest, when I got the car in 2013 I already had 5 years of tuning experience and I was terrified of tuning the legacy (knowing how expensive Subaru motors are).

 

 

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[covertrussian]

Part Number for 2005-2006: 10921AA020

Part Number for 2007-2009: 10921AA080

 

This is probably one of the easier things to do on this car, but figured I would grab some pics since the passenger one is kind of painful.

 

Driver side is real easy, pull off the valve cover breather (just one is fine) and pull the OCV straight back. To install the new one just push it straight forward.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253911&stc=1&d=1502330668

 

 

Passenger side is a little more complex:

Remove the intake S bend, pull the valve cover breather off, and unscrew the OCV retention bolt.

 

If you just pull it back like you can driver side one, the OCV retention bracket will contact the coolant tank bracket. This is where you have to get a little creative, rotate it sideways and use a flathead screwdriver to prop it out and push it past the retention bracket.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253905&stc=1&d=1502330668

 

Old vs new, the part numbers are the same but they are made slightly differently. Old one actually had the part number on retention bracket, while new one has last part of the part number on the black plug.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253906&stc=1&d=1502330668

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253907&stc=1&d=1502330668

 

Installation is the same way as removal, once again turn it sideways to get it past the bracket. I really had to use a screwdriver to push in past the coolant bracket (was getting caught up on things).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253908&stc=1&d=1502330668

 

After it clears the bracket rotate it to it's normal position, if you wait to rotate it till it's fully in, the head will be in the way of the retention bracket and wont let you rotate it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253909&stc=1&d=1502330668

 

Reinstall the valve cover breather, of course mine cracked so will have to get replacements soon, meanwhile zip tie to save the day. Air leak here isn't too bad, but still would result in unmetered air coming into the crankcase and then PCV system and then the most maf intake pipe.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253910&stc=1&d=1502330668

Edited August 10, 2017 by covertrussian

[StkmltS]

When are you going to commit to max fuel savings and cover your rear wheels?

[covertrussian]

Rofl, never! I care too much about aesthetics of my car to save $1 a week in gas. This is why I only do reasonable mods and driving styles (no hypermiling bs, no tailgating trucks or wasting starters).

[SubOperator]

FWIW, My wagon is 1" lower (koni and Epic's) and I have to use 2x6's about 18" long so my front bumper doesn't hit my ramps.

 

Similar story here, my wagon is lowered on Pinks + Bilstein HDs, and I have same ramps as Covert does (привет btw). Front bumper scrapes the ramps. So no lip for me even though I do like how they look.

[covertrussian]

Got 31.25mpg today with the lip and some tune adjustments: AVCS @ 5, and 40* of timing highway. It was a pretty windy day too, 10-18mph with up to 27mph gusts.

 

The car was much more planted going against the wind, I didn't have to fight it nearly as much. Though I can't give all the MPG gain credit to the lip alone. When I was testing AVCS @ 5* and 38* highway timing (what I've been running with 10* of avcs), it felt a little stressed, but increasing the timing by 2* made it be very smooth, I should try adding 2* of timing (since less AVCS = less compression).

[covertrussian]

Question for the self tuners, have you guys had to add about 10% to the MAF scaling table because going out of closed loop in 14.7 fuel cells you would be stupid lean? I would have to have the cells be in high 12's just to get it to be around 14.7 real AFR.

 

I would understand if it was post intake, but I'm still on stock airbox and air filter. I searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner, but didn't hear the engine rev up anywhere. I just adjusted the MAF scales to compensate, just seems odd to need to do that. I believe this was happening before EL header too.

[StkmltS]

Why are you adjusting the MAF scaling instead of target AFR?

I'm still a tuning noob so maybe I didn't understand you correctly.

[covertrussian]

Why are you adjusting the MAF scaling instead of target AFR?

I'm still a tuning noob so maybe I didn't understand you correctly.

 

There is no real target AFR on these cars, it's just an arbitrary number that gets converted to injector open time eventually. My OBD2 Nissan ECU was the same way, luckily OBD1 one that I'm running right now just gives me the raw values . But on the Nissan we have a MAF Scaler called the K value, which lets you basically adjust overall fueling (weight of each cell basically), without needing to mess with MAF scales.

 

So Since Subaru ECU's use arbitrary target AFR table, and don't contain a multiplier value (to richen or lean out the overall mixture), your stuck with adjusting your MAF scales if your real world AFR's are far away from the MAF table. Downside is, your airflow ranges (load and grams/s) get changed too.

 

Another example would be tuning for intakes. On Nissan ECU I would adjust that multiplier (k value) when I install a new intake to make it be richer, while on Subaru ECU you adjust the whole MAF voltage to Grams/sec conversion table.

[StkmltS]

I didn't realize the target AFR table (Primary Open Loop Fueling) was that less-than helpful. That would explain why I haven't quite gotten the results I was shooting for by playing around with that table.

 

So when I want to make a small group of cells slightly richer in order to address FKC events, or to make the CL/OL transition smoother like you said, I should increase the appropriate columns in the MAF scaling table... and then do what with the primary open loop fueling table? Do I also change those few cells to the end result I'm hoping for so that my fuel trims stay under control? If I'm understanding correctly that would make sense (not being sarcastic).

 

At the bottom of the table in RomRaider it even says "Estimated Air/Fuel Ratio"... geesh, I wish I would have noticed that before now.

 

When you mentioned the disconnect between desired and actual (12 to get 14.7) were you talking about the value in the primary open loop fueling table?

[covertrussian]

Don't worry a lot of people think that open loop table is an actual target AFR, I don't blame them because our cars are equipped with widebands stock, so in theory it could be. I learned not to trust target AFR tables from tuning OBD2 SR20's, which didn't have widebands stock but had the pesky target AFR tables.

 

I would tune the fuel cells in the open loop table first, treat it as a AFR fine tuning table, while your MAF scales are rough tuning (to get you in the ball park). Basically if you install an mod, like an intake, you need to adjust the the rough scales to get you close enough, then you fine tune with open loop fuel table.

 

Now if your seeing bad AFR's at the same grams/s all the time (constant high A-C learning), at that point you can go in and adjust that specific MAF scale cell. In my case my whole map was out of sync, I was asking the open loop table 9:1 AFR's to get 11:1 real AFR's. Which is what lead me to finally adjust the MAF scales, it just doesn't seem right unless I have a major boost leak somewhere.

 

 

When you mentioned the disconnect between desired and actual (12 to get 14.7) were you talking about the value in the primary open loop fueling table?

 

Yup, so the open loop fuel map would say Engine give me 12.8:1 AFR, I would be seeing 14.7ish AFR. For months (maybe years?) this was masked by closed loop learning (and very oem like broad closed loop areas). If you look at this AFR plot, you can see how lean it is to 3500rpm, and that's with open loop delay disabled!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exhaust/Header/Tomei%20193105/Header%20Dyno%20-%20%20Stock%20UEL%20vs%20Tomei%20ELH.png~original

[StkmltS]

Since I started playing around with tuning I've gained so much more respect for the phrase "like a finely tuned machine".

 

Tuning is awesome. Making useful changes to a car (for free) AND learning.

[covertrussian]

Thinking about tinting my windows. I'm pressure sure my factory windows have some tint to them, maybe 70%, searching the forum and getting mixed bag of results.

 

Since VA is very strict on tint (50% front, 35% back), I need to know the factory tint levels to buy a few shades lighter. Anyone know what the factory backed in tint is for sure?

[Flinkly]

Thinking about tinting my windows. I'm pressure sure my factory windows have some tint to them, maybe 70%, searching the forum and getting mixed bag of results.

 

Since VA is very strict on tint (50% front, 35% back), I need to know the factory tint levels to buy a few shades lighter. Anyone know what the factory backed in tint is for sure?

 

you're going to DIY it? otherwise i'm sure a tint shop has the tool necessary to check your tint level and add as appropriate. obviously...

[covertrussian]

Yeah the goal is to DIY the side windows and have Crutchfield do my rear window for $50. I just did my G20's side windows with the precut tint and it was not bad at all. Legacy should be even easier since no frames to fight with.

[covertrussian]

Question for the self tuners, have you guys had to add about 10% to the MAF scaling table because going out of closed loop in 14.7 fuel cells you would be stupid lean? I would have to have the cells be in high 12's just to get it to be around 14.7 real AFR.

 

I would understand if it was post intake, but I'm still on stock airbox and air filter. I searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner, but didn't hear the engine rev up anywhere. I just adjusted the MAF scales to compensate, just seems odd to need to do that. I believe this was happening before EL header too.

 

An update to this... I ran with 10% MAF scaling increase and learning views were finally closer to 0, if not in negatives.

 

Stock MAF scale:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Fueling/MAF%20Scale/TankFilterBypass%20-%20Stock%20MAF%20Scale.png~original

 

After 10% MAF increase:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Fueling/MAF%20Scale/TankFilterBypass_MAF10.png~original

 

 

Later I came across this thread, where Th3Franz and MTBwrench mentioned that leaning out could be fuel pump related (dirty sock or leak). This made me remember that my fuel filter bypass had a tiny leak, it wasn't enough to cause my fuel pressure to drop quickly, but it would drop over time.

 

Went ahead and swapped the stock 100k mile fuel pump and filter in, all the sudden my WOT became richer by almost one AFR point! I wonder if this is the leanness issue that I got from last year to this year (where I had to richened up my fuel map a good bit). But my cruising fuel learning was still at around +10% though (Fueling being added).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Fueling/MAF%20Scale/100k%20OEM%20FP-Filter_Stock%20MAF%20Scale.jpg~original

 

Added the 10% to MAF scaling and now my cruising learning is at 1-3%. Oddly enough with previous fuel pump assembly cruising was around -5%. Another interesting bit is the Idle learning is maxed out at 15%!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Fueling/MAF%20Scale/100k%20OEM%20FP-Filter_MAF10.jpg~original

 

What does this tell me? The stock fuel filter is clogged and not delivering enough fuel at low loads, but not clogged enough to have issues at WOT. While the other fuel pump assembly is fine at low loads but probably looses too much fuel pressure at higher loads.

 

Now I gotta rebuild the system, the biggest issue is, fuel pump is 5/16" while the connection on the top assembly is 3/8". Last I checked no one sells a corrugated plastic upsizing hose. Thus I might have to use a 5/16 to 3/8 adapter, then use a couple inches of 3/8" submersible hose which would tighten on the top plastic.

 

 

5/16" here:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Fuel%20Filter/SAM_7481.jpg~original

 

3/8" here, this is where I had to heat up the hose to get it to expand, then slip it on, this is where it was leaking fuel from. Since it's multi-barbed, it's really hard to get a proper seal with plastic hoses.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Fuel%20Filter/SAM_7515.jpg~original

[Merc6]

Yeah the goal is to DIY the side windows and have Crutchfield do my rear window for $50. I just did my G20's side windows with the precut tint and it was not bad at all. Legacy should be even easier since no frames to fight with.

 

I never had an issue and the previous owner was 35% tint when he sold it to me. I spent maybe 3 more years in NoVa before bringing the car back to Ohio where nobody hassled me for the tint. This was FFX County cops, Arlington County cops, MPD, and Prince George from what I could remember. I'm not 100% sure if he tinted in Nova or or Georgia where the car originated from. Majority of that time I had the darker 07 Shrek B interior but right before moving to Ohio went 06 Limited tan. Car was registered and garaged NoVa that entire time.

[covertrussian]

I've had a few friends who got $100 fines for dark tint, it's just not worth it IMO. I think 35% is plenty dark, just wish fronts were allowed to be 35% too.

[gkinslow]

I had a BRZ pull up behind me yesterday with the front windshield tinted at %20 or darker.

 

I don't think tint tickets are even a thing around here.

 

That being said, mine looks like %35 all the way around and its just enough to keep me from getting it redone.

[Mr.RMFC]

I used to hate spoilerless cars, but I actually wanted a spoilerless Legacy. Part of it is because of the super big stock spoiler which I don't care for, another part is because I've started appreciating simple trunk lips.

 

Do you have a link to the website you ordered it from?

[covertrussian]

Do you have a link to the website you ordered it from?

 

I actually got it from an eBay vendor, it's been 5 years so hard to say which one.