CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

[covertrussian]

Yeah PB doesn't keep your image name when you upload to their site. That does make it more difficult when there's a ton of pics per post. Sorry. Hazards of "hosting" mostly.

 

Oh no what I meant is, say I name the file "Signs of bad MAF_00.png". When I upload it to to this site, gets renamed to be attachment ID:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256049&stc=1&d=1506876932

 

I understand why, just harder to look through the thread and figure out what image is what .

 

Interestingly enough the title of the image is retained (my tab is named properly).

[SBT]

But if you mouse over one that you've uploaded, your original file name will show. At least it does with mine. Perhaps

[SBT]

But if you mouse over one that you've uploaded (not linked), your original file name will show in that instance.

 

Edit: When I mouse over one of your loaded files above, the file name shows. E.g., MAF Load-AFR - 118k 2.5i vs 140k LGT

[covertrussian]

Oh the file name shows up in the attachments list, which is real nice, it's just not in URL. It's not a big deal, just can't do a search and replace haha .

[Blackhawk2k7]

Covertrussian:

 

I am shadowing your build thread semi-religiously, I thank you immensely for the time and effort you put into getting that all together. I have even swayed several newer owners on facebook and otherwise to read this thread before going for more power. I am just about to tackle the avcs banjo filters, I was wondering if you knew whether you could remove the front banjo (under the timing cover) by grinding the nub off, without having to takeoff the timing cover?

 

Also,

 

For some of the threads, that photobucket ruined for everyone, would you still have the original pictures readily available to send if the need arose?

 

Thank you for everything you, and everyone else does for this forum

[covertrussian]

Covertrussian:

 

I am shadowing your build thread semi-religiously, I thank you immensely for the time and effort you put into getting that all together. I have even swayed several newer owners on facebook and otherwise to read this thread before going for more power. I am just about to tackle the avcs banjo filters, I was wondering if you knew whether you could remove the front banjo (under the timing cover) by grinding the nub off, without having to takeoff the timing cover?

 

Thanks man, I appreciate the support, knowing that it helps people motivates me to keep on posting detailed posts .

 

I've heard of people doing that, and I actually did do that on my old 2004 FXT, but it didn't have the knob and it cracked the timing belt cover (which didn't bother me too much).

 

You can carefully grind the hump off, or if you don't care about timing cover just unscrew it until you have enough room. Then grind the head off with the bolt out.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253925&stc=1&d=1502332213

 

When I did my cam seals, I did swap bolts (from AVCS to head), but I think that bolt is worse off because of how much thicker the hex head is.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253933&stc=1&d=1502332213

 

Also,

 

For some of the threads, that photobucket ruined for everyone, would you still have the original pictures readily available to send if the need arose?

 

Thank you for everything you, and everyone else does for this forum

 

I'm slowly working on reuploading all the pics, it's a fairly manual process so it tedious. If you have any specific posts/threads in mind let me know and I'll prioritize them.

[covertrussian]

Since my car has been acting up lately, ordered a new MAF sensor.

 

Ordered Denso 197-6040, to my surprise received an actual Subaru part. Your results may vary, a local friend got a "Denso" stamped one. The part number I receved is 22680AA310.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256653&stc=1&d=1507780617

 

05-09 Legacy GT's OEM sensor's part number is 22680AA31A

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256654&stc=1&d=1507780617

 

At first I was worried about running it, but then doing some research, it looks like difference between the two sensors is 22680AA310 is made in Japan and 22680AA31A is made in USA, that plus $50 price difference from the dealer .

 

After installing the new MAF, it looked very promising, it was reading more voltage then the old MAF. I even went back to the stock MAF scales because my +13% scales were way too rich. Since the new maf's was reading different engine loads I needed a retune.

 

Today I started tuning the car, first I adjusted the AFR's to be around 11's, as I started finding the optimal timing, I noticed my AFR's were getting richer with each reflash (when only timing table changed). Two runs were about the same, but the third one (green line) started showing the same symptons as before. Engine load is a calculation of MAF voltages, so it exacerbates the issue, making it easier to spot.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256656&stc=1&d=1507780617

 

MAF voltages show the same trend though. There is no way that 3*F temp would make such a drastic difference.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256655&stc=1&d=1507780617

 

Thus now, even with the new MAF I'm back to the same issue, I'm starting to believe it's a grounding issue with the MAF sensor. It's very common for us to reground the MAFs on Nissans, but I'm not seeing that as a common trend for Subarus.

[utc_pyro]

Ordered Denso 197-6040

 

.....

 

Thus now, even with the new MAF I'm back to the same issue, I'm starting to believe it's a grounding issue with the MAF sensor. It's very common for us to reground the MAFs on Nissans, but I'm not seeing that as a common trend for Subarus.

 

The MAF is grounded directly to the ECU via pin 2, so I'm not sure that's going to gain you anything. Having it grounded there lets the ECU get a more accurate reeding.

 

Maybe frayed wiring?

[covertrussian]

The MAF is grounded directly to the ECU via pin 2, so I'm not sure that's going to gain you anything. Having it grounded there lets the ECU get a more accurate reeding.

 

Maybe frayed wiring?

 

That's how it is on our Nissan MAFs are grounded stock too. Over time the wires get either frayed or filled with corrosion, which causes inaccurate readings. On the Nissan's I would splice a 14 gauge wire and send it to the intake manifold's ECU grounds.

 

Also I finally secured the stock airbox this morning, when I had the CAI couple months back I removed the front bracket, so the airbox was moving a bit (being held by only one lower bolt). While I don't think it was the culprit, extra vibrations against the sensor is probably not good for it

 

After that I did 4 pulls and they had very similar voltages and engine loads. I'm gonna do some more pulls this afternoon when it warms up, since the MAF would start getting wonky when it was warmer.

[utc_pyro]

Guess it wouldn't hurt rewiring the whole MAF then? You can buy the connector here:

 

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/3236

 

Probably could do shielded wire all the way to the MAF if you wanted get a cleaner signal as well.

[covertrussian]

Speaking of connectors, after 5 years my spark plug connector for cyl 3 came loose while doing a pull yesterday. Ran horribly, had me scared that I burned a hole in the piston. I think it's time for me to replace the broken tab connector, so it doesn't happen again, any ideas where to get those?

 

EDIT: Found some, looks like cheapest is $6 per connector on ebay. Search for "Subaru Ignition Coil Connector Clip"

Edited October 12, 2017 by covertrussian

[covertrussian]

It's been a week with the new MAF (and numerous reflashes/ecu resets), I'm still leaning way out at idle, even threw a lean CEL after 2 days of no reflash/ecu resets.

 

Since this was happening with my old fuel filter/pump assembly, and with the new fuel filter bypassed assembly (engine bay filter only), I'm ruling out fuel pump and fuel filter. Could still be injectors though.

 

Besides that I think it might be a vacuum leak. Maybe a mouse bit through one of my hoses .

[rhino6303]

It's been a week with the new MAF (and numerous reflashes/ecu resets), I'm still leaning way out at idle, even threw a lean CEL after 2 days of no reflash/ecu resets.

 

Since this was happening with my old fuel filter/pump assembly, and with the new fuel filter bypassed assembly (engine bay filter only), I'm ruling out fuel pump and fuel filter. Could still be injectors though.

 

Besides that I think it might be a vacuum leak. Maybe a mouse bit through one of my hoses .

Check the maf o-ring as well. Did you apply any formnof lube to the o-ring? I've had them pinch without lubricant before and had the same issue. Just something easy to check.

[covertrussian]

Check the maf o-ring as well. Did you apply any formnof lube to the o-ring? I've had them pinch without lubricant before and had the same issue. Just something easy to check.

 

That was actually an issue with my old MAF after cleaning it. I couldn't get the o-ring to go back in properly, I think this caused the MAF to be miss-aligned, leaning to all sort of wonky readings. I had to run it with no o-ring for a week while waiting for the new sensor.

[covertrussian]

Since replacing the MAF didn't help with the idle leaning out, I started looking for vacuum leaks. I've heard of using the carb cleaner/starting fluid method, where you listen for idle to rise, but I've never really seen it make a difference. Well the other day I saw a post on RomRaider suggesting to watch AF 1 Correction while spraying carb cleaner.

 

To begin I put the laptop in the engine bay and had the car war up.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256908&stc=1&d=1508386004

 

After a few minutes, RomRaider was reading +25 correction to AF 1.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256909&stc=1&d=1508386004

 

Next I started spraying what I thought might be problem areas (valve cover breather hoses which have cracks), FPR line, BOV Line, manifold to TGV gaskets. Finally when I got to the TB and finally saw movement on AF 1 correction...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256910&stc=1&d=1508386004

 

Doing about a second long burst caused the corrections to swing way into the negatives

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256911&stc=1&d=1508386004

 

Next I stumbled across the EVAP vacuum valve missing something, guess 13psi was enough to blow the line off. Damn you Subaru for not barbing the connections!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256912&stc=1&d=1508386004

 

If your not familiar with vacuum lines, this one tee's into BOV (with the blue tee, which I replaced with turkey lord tee ages ago). In my case this line tee's into my FPR too! With such a big vacuum leak, I'm surprised the car ran so well...

 

Making note of this, I continued searching, spraying the turbo inlet and PCV valves, which caused the corrections to swing into negatives too.

 

Turned the car off and spent the next 30 minutes trying to get a zip tie onto the evap valve. As you can see I ziptied all other lines, but this one was a PITA so didn't do it before. Finally I pre-zipped one tie, slipped it on the hose, then slid the hose onto the evap valve.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256913&stc=1&d=1508386004

 

After resetting the ECU, corrections were in -5 range, finally! I then started spraying the previous problem areas (TB, turbo inlet, PCV valve), none of them were effecting corrections now! I think the vacuum line was simply sucking up the carb cleaner from those other areas.

 

Moral of the story, check and ziptie your vacuum lines

Edited October 19, 2017 by covertrussian

[Max Capacity]

Glad you found the leak. Simple fix.

[covertrussian]

No kidding, I'm ashamed at myself for not finding this earlier, I've been so damn busy and occupied with my other cars (and fixing friends cars).

[utc_pyro]

You can actually delete the whole passive purge valve, reducing the number of potential EVAP and boost/intake leak points. There really isn't much flow through when it opens under boost (unless your filter is extremely clogged), the purge control solenoid does 99% of the job.

 

There are threads over on NASIOC about it, the EJ207 didn't even come with one factory.

[Phate]

Since replacing the MAF didn't help with the idle leaning out, I started looking for vacuum leaks. I've heard of using the carb cleaner/starting fluid method, where you listen for idle to rise, but I've never really seen it make a difference. Well the other day I saw a post on RomRaider suggesting to watch AF 1 Correction while spraying carb cleaner.

 

Even easier than the carb cleaner is to stick a piece of tubing over the end of a propane torch, turn the gas on, and poke around in the engine bay near suspect areas. It's the same principle, but you're not spraying carb cleaner all over things.

[covertrussian]

You can actually delete the whole passive purge valve, reducing the number of potential EVAP and boost/intake leak points. There really isn't much flow through when it opens under boost (unless your filter is extremely clogged), the purge control solenoid does 99% of the job.

 

There are threads over on NASIOC about it, the EJ207 didn't even come with one factory.

 

You know what, I like this idea a lot. It will reduce the amount of things I need to weld/braze on for my custom 3" inlet too. I don't expect there to be too much vacuum in the inlet, but I'll be measuring it soon with my manometer.

 

This makes me wonder about needing other things that go into the inlet, like PCV, and even boost solenoid bleeder. That would leave only the BOV and crancase lines.

 

My turbo Nissan's inlet only has the valve cover breather on it and that's it. The PCV goes to manifold only, and EVAP goes to manifold only too (for which I added a one way valve to, to eliminate boost from hitting charcoal canister). My MBC just bleeds to atmosphere and meh I don't care

 

Even easier than the carb cleaner is to stick a piece of tubing over the end of a propane torch, turn the gas on, and poke around in the engine bay near suspect areas. It's the same principle, but you're not spraying carb cleaner all over things.

 

That's a good idea, probably much cheaper. Though I do like seeing what I'm spraying and knowing when it all evaporated. Plus with 10 year old dust and grease, carb cleaner helps wash it off

[covertrussian]

Tested a spare purge valve that I have, it's definitely closed when there is no pressure/negative pressure and opens, with bidirectional flow, when pressure is applied to the purge valve. I'm now curious about how much vacuum the inlet is able to provide, if not much then it's as good as useless.

 

UNLESS, the the purge solenoid stays open in boost and to prevent the evap canister from getting pressurized, it bleeds the pressure into the inlet. Would have to see if there is ever positive pressure after purge solenoid.

[utc_pyro]

Easiest test is to go log purge solenoid duty cycle. Last I looked at it, it fully closed when in any sort of boost.

[covertrussian]

Sweet, will find that. I wonder if it's actual map sensor related or if it's engine load related. If it's engine load, you can be in boost at 1.0g/rev one day, and at 1.3/grev another day.

 

Also, I think I know why the car didn't freak out completely with that vacuum/boost leak. Boost leak makes you run rich, but since FPR is teed into it, it saw less pressure, thus it ran less fuel. All in all it equaled itself out. Fixing the that boost leak made me run richer, but by only about .2 of a point.

[covertrussian]

05 Doesn't seem to have a "purge solenoid duty cycle" gauge, but it does have the CPC Valve Durty Ratio, which I believe is the purge control valve too.

 

Did some city driving and hit boost a few times, and it was off at 1psi+

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257090&stc=1&d=1508766481

 

Now I wanna test if there is boost leaking past it. My Nissan valve couldn't keep boost from leaking out so I had to add a one way valve between the CPC valve and vapor canister.

[utc_pyro]

You have an '05 and thus a fuel tank pressure sensor. Plug the passive valve and do a short pull in boost while logging that. If you see any rise in the tank pressure you'd know it's an issue.

 

Went into boost for the first time with mine deleted last night, didn't notice anything strange happening. But I also don't have a tank pressure sensor, so I wouldn't know anything was bad unless something broke.

Edited October 23, 2017 by utc_pyro