covertrussian Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thoughts on feel after deleting the CDV? Edit: nevermind, saw you said it wasn't as drastic as on your Outback. I think my reservoir is actually leaking from that dampener. That looks like a good option. What are the side effects of the delete? Also, if you could cover how to bleed the clutch that would be great! Is the old rubber line similar to our brake lines? Actually stainless steel lines coated in rubber? Or is it pure rubber? I forgot to add my conclusion and went on to post the Outback CDV delete. I mainly did it so that it wouldn't eat my new clutch with the delayed engagements and disengagements . There is crush washer under the stock damper, that could be leaking, or the whole thing is shot. Since the oil drain plug is only $3, it's well worth the test. Not sure on the rubber, line, I didn't really fondle it much. I'm glad I didn't cut it though, seems like another member who turned me onto this Goodridge line just had a failure. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 The new line is angled a little to much and does touch the transmission. Since it's coated it shouldn't be a big deal, but it can cause false knock vibrations. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/Goo24216_005.jpg I bent the line a little up, but it didn't help, it was still contacting. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/Goo24216_006.jpg Just out of curiosity, why didn't you just flip the line over and attach it so that the bend is pointing up? It looks like that's how iNfEk did it. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Just out of curiosity, why didn't you just flip the line over and attach it so that the bend is pointing up? It looks like that's how iNfEk did it. With it faced up it was hitting the metal bracket that the big connector is attached to. Maybe that created tension on the line that led to it leaking for him? Also I did notice a little bit of a bend on mine on the firewall side Maybe I should bend the bracket to make the SS line be as straight as possible. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 So what is the outcome of that leaking line? Replace with another SS line or go back to OEM? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 He said they are sending him another line. I'm gonna keep mine in as long as it stays dry, but I am worried now, so will carry my OEM line with brake fluid in the trunk and maybe will buy a vacuum pump for good measure. If she doesn't leak in a month or two I think it will be safe to say that it's not defective... 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I just don't see why they would replace the clutch hose with SS. The OEM works just fine, it's not like the braking system. Just saying, not trying to be condescending here. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 While I like the good ole "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", but Subaru's taught me greatly about preventing mods (cough... banjo filters, turbo oil hardline cracks, etc). I replaced mine because I had great experience with a SS line on my Infiniti for over 5 years. It helps reduce flex for a more precise engagement, especially when old line is over 10 years old and might be ballooning or dry rotting. I'm actually more keen on using an SS line on a clutch instead of brake lines. Even though my Infiniti has has Techna-Fit SS lines for last 5 years, I'm far less trusting of them on a vital component like that. Especially looking up some horror stories of SS brake lines ripping/breaking. One interesting observation, while the wife was bleeding the clutch and or pressing the brakes, I saw how much the firewall moved! It's a heck of a lot of flex! 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 One interesting observation, while the wife was bleeding the clutch and or pressing the brakes, I saw how much the firewall moved! It's a heck of a lot of flex! Do you have the grimmspeed MBC brace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 I don't, but it's got me wanting to build one (hard to justify $100 for a piece of metal that I could weld myself). I'm not sure sure I like that design too: it's pushing on the front end of the master cylinder and prevents it from moving forward. The problem with this design is, overtime the master cylinder will dent in the brake booster, and play will be reintroduced. I would much rather reinforce the firewall it self, but that's just wishful thinking. Sadly I already junked my parts legacy, otherwise I would have had an easier time fabing something up! 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) Covertrussian - have you seen something like this before (although it's crazy expensive at $180) but seems like a good idea to improve clutch feel etc (same idea as the GS MBCB) http://circuitmotorsports.rpmware.com/circuit-motorsports/circuit-motorsports-clutch-master-cylinder-brace/cmsdrv001bk/i-2117290.aspx Groub-buy on Nasioc, seemed to get good feedback. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681827&page=27 Edited February 5, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Covertrussian - have you seen something like this before (although it's crazy expensive at $180) but seems like a good idea to improve clutch feel etc (same idea as the GS MBCB) http://circuitmotorsports.rpmware.com/circuit-motorsports/circuit-motorsports-clutch-master-cylinder-brace/cmsdrv001bk/i-2117290.aspx Groub-buy on Nasioc, seemed to get good feedback. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2681827&page=27 That's more like it, I like a brace like that a lot more! Definitely out of my price range, but I might fab something up not too different from that. I'm thinking a single brace for clutch and brake cylinder, but that might be a little hard to make. This is where I wish I still had the parts legacy, even though it was auto. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Looks like my master clutch cylinder has a slight drip. I'm finding oil under it after driving. Guess the copper o-ring I used is a little too big. I tried to find the OEM gasket but Subaru doesn't sell it separately from the master cylinder. Might have to get the dimensions and order the gaskets online, or reuse the oem one. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) just need to anneal it if you want to do it "right". and off the top of my head i think that's only 400F. just leave it in the oven overnight. jk. but can anneal it if you've got a torch. just get it bright red and then plunge it in some cold water. Edited February 7, 2017 by Flinkly * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da Vinci Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 After moving the FPR to the BOV line, have you noticed anything questionable? I just ask because you did that over a year ago and I'm sure by now you would have come across any issues or gains. I just recently applied that method after reading that Cobb article, but I'm still not sure if I want to keep it or tap the manifold. Thanks for any input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da Vinci Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 After moving the FPR to the BOV line, have you noticed anything questionable? I just ask because you did that over a year ago and I'm sure by now you would have come across any issues or gains. I just recently applied that method after reading that Cobb article, but I'm still not sure if I want to keep it or tap the manifold. Thanks for any input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 After moving the FPR to the BOV line, have you noticed anything questionable? I just ask because you did that over a year ago and I'm sure by now you would have come across any issues or gains. I just recently applied that method after reading that Cobb article, but I'm still not sure if I want to keep it or tap the manifold. Thanks for any input. It's been pretty good! I did change out the FPR to STI style one too though. I still get minor hesitation, but mainly when the car is cold, so could be tune related. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 On other news I need front end links and tires before I can pass state inspection. The whiteline knock offs make too much noise (very common actually) and I don't think the inspection place will like that . I'm thinking either building them out of heim joints, or just getting Moog's or Mevotech's. Only thing pushing me away from Moog's is they require you to grease them every oil change, ain't nobody got time for that As for tires, need something fairly cheap, don't have any spending money so buying out of necessity. Falken FK450 A/S sound pretty good though, need something that can handle snow decently, and the price is right with their rebates right now. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdmayne Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I just threw a set of FK450 A/S on my car. They did just fine in the snow and ice this week and seem to grip dry fairly well. Moderately quiet too. 225/40/18 John Hancock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Sweet! I wonder how good they are at rolling resistance compared to my current RS3-A's, they are about 2lbs lighter, so that should help with gas mileage too. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da Vinci Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) It's been pretty good! I did change out the FPR to STI style one too though. I still get minor hesitation, but mainly when the car is cold, so could be tune related. I did the STI FPR too and found the cold hesitation issue. I haven't tuned much yet, but it's probably what I'll get done if I find time this week. My car and I thank you greatly for this thread BTW! Edited February 12, 2017 by Da Vinci Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Onto the next project, my front windshield area has some rust and it leaks inside when it rains hard. Before I rip off the existing window trim I need to get some new trim. I'm not a fan of how the factory trim is (it's not aero and smooth). Anyone know of a good a good aftermarket one? BL/BP one looks like this: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238123&stc=1&d=1474641052 My 2012 outback makes this easier and just ditches the trim http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238125&stc=1&d=1474641083 I pulled the trim off on the parts legacy that I had, and the gap is just too huge without the trim http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238322&stc=1&d=1474983283 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 My passenger valve cover gasket has been leaking since day one. Finally got around to replace it, decided to to the compression test while I was at it. Still haven't figured out which cylinder is which: 135, 140, 133, 135... Thanks for the pics of the valve cover gasket replacement. Doesn't look as daunting as I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Onto the next project, my front windshield area has some rust and it leaks inside when it rains hard. The destiny of just about every Legacy that's had a windshield replaced in its lifetime. Nobody pays proper attention to priming and painting the giant gouges down to the metal that they create when removing the old windshield, just slap a new one in there and hope the sealant and trim take care of it. I had rust much worse than yours, but I recently put in a new windshield and I had the body shop fix the rust while they were in there. Between the heated windshield and the rust repair, it wasn't cheap. Mine was previously leaking water too, but only when I was driving on the highway during rain, not when hosing off the car during a wash or sitting parked in a downpour. At highway speed the water was running up the windshield and getting under the trim that way. A little bit of silicone sealant worked in along the front edge of the trim completely stopped the water from dripping on my leg. It won't do anything to slow the cancer, but it bought me another 18 drip-free months until the glass got bad enough to need replacing anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 My 07 LGT still has the original windshield. Now my 13 3.6 is on windshield 2, which the new one got cracked again about a week after install. I hate CALTRANS! Clean up the roads! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Mine looks original too, weather stripping definitely is original looking how bad it is. It was the same on my 35k mile wagon that I recently pitched. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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