Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Super Cheap RSB hack-grade


Recommended Posts

You have to calculate cross-sectional area, but the Hotchkis is hollow, right? So... let's use a solid 25mm Perrin bar instead.

 

The cross sectional area of a solid OEM bar of 18mm is 3.142159 x (18/2)^2 = 254.47mm. If you use two, that's a total of 508.94mm. A 25mm Perrin bar only gives you a cross-section of 490.87mm.

 

OP wins. It's physics.

 

Hollow bars are meant to be filled with something..;).how about concrete, molten aluminum?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 141
  • Created
  • Last Reply
You have to calculate cross-sectional area, but the Hotchkis is hollow, right? So... let's use a solid 25mm Perrin bar instead.

 

The cross sectional area of a solid OEM bar of 18mm is 3.142159 x (18/2)^2 = 254.47mm. If you use two, that's a total of 508.94mm. A 25mm Perrin bar only gives you a cross-section of 490.87mm.

 

OP wins. It's physics.

 

I've got a little rust on my mechanical engineering degree, but since we're talking rotation, shouldn't we be looking at moment of inertia (related to area and shape)? And if so, where are all the I-Beam rear sways?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"If you ain't first, you're last, M Sprank!" Now git r' done!

 

Help me baby Jesus, I'm on FIRE!!! :lol::lol::lol:

 

Trying to cut open a Hotchkis bar to insert a second Hotchkis bar inside it now. Or maybe I can inset a Whiteline bar inside the hollow Hotchkis bar. Kinda like the Turducken of sway bars. :eek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a little rust on my mechanical engineering degree, but since we're talking rotation, shouldn't we be looking at moment of inertia (related to area and shape)? And if so, where are all the I-Beam rear sways?

I'm an EE. I can tell you whether it's conductive. Beyond that, I'm of no use. I was just trying to justify this using the skills available to someone who might think it's a good idea.

Tits mcgee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, except the "snowplow" splitter has evolved into a completely refined design that works now. Boxkita has looked at it while visiting and I have a friend that's a SCCA driver that did A/B tests for me and he was impressed with the front stability it caused....SO THERE ! ! :)

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

So glad my name for it stuck.

 

You should put a Hiniker sticker on it for shits and grins. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know why the OP didn't use something stiffer than just another sway bar clamped to another sway bar.

 

If controlling body roll in the rear so the car will oversteer more is what the OP is after make some bump stops that limit rear suspension travel to about .5", and then take some square steel tubing and wrap the stock sway bar with cut and welded steel cage around it with the ends tapered down to and welded at the ends of the stock sway bar.

 

Then put a snow plow on front so the front end is more planted reducing understeer. For an added bonus inflate the rear tires to like 50-60psi so the contact patch is tiny in the rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a bad idea.

 

Or figure out a way to take the independent suspension out completely since it is far too flexible and not stiff enough. Replace both ends with Dana 60's, and attach them with solid brackets welded to the unibody. No springs at all!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know why the OP didn't use something stiffer than just another sway bar clamped to another sway bar.

 

If controlling body roll in the rear so the car will oversteer more is what the OP is after make some bump stops that limit rear suspension travel to about .5", and then take some square steel tubing and wrap the stock sway bar with cut and welded steel cage around it with the ends tapered down to and welded at the ends of the stock sway bar.

 

Then put a snow plow on front so the front end is more planted reducing understeer. For an added bonus inflate the rear tires to like 50-60psi so the contact patch is tiny in the rear.

 

Too much welding. Zip ties are faster and lighter.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use