motorbreath

That's encouraging! I am definitely careful with warm-ups, but just out of curiosity, how hard are you on the engine? Are you regularly close or at WOT (on-ramps, passing, etc) or are you only occasionally pushing it?

My understanding is that Wix filters meet the 23psi bypass spec, but you can't go wrong with OEM, for sure.

I just replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, the original was working but had 120k and 13 years on the clock. After driving to fill up the gas tank, I immediately noticed an improvement at low throttle and deceleration. The engine seems a bit smoother, less choppy transitioning between the two. No difference at WOT...still fun as hell!

I replaced my fuel filter and fuel pump today, check out my build thread for details on the fuel pump debacle, but I installed the OEM pump because my tune is using stock injectors. I still have a DW200 and DW300 if anyone is interested!

I use Wix, they publish relatively detailed information about every filter they make, including bypass pressure. The other great thing about them is that they make tons of filters for pretty much everything, so Wix filters for my cars and motorcycles.

I have them on my wife's Ascent, they are plenty good in most conditions, much better than any all season that I have used. If you are driving in snow, the only drawback that I have noticed is that dedicated winter tires are noticeably better with braking.

I assumed that the original filter kept it clean and was getting clogged, didn't want to risk cleaning the sensor. It seems to be working fine now, so I think I'll leave it alone since I have a laundry list of other stuff to fix!

You will need this adapter for a 3-port BCS, https://www.grimmspeed.com/turbo-inlet-adapter-2015-21-wrx-fa20-2010-2012-lgt/

My understanding is that a 3 BCS is essentially a requirement for a stage 2 tune, along with an aftermarket BPV or BOV in your case. The Q300 turbo-back was a good choice IMO, sounds great at WOT but not obnoxious around town. Look up how the stock BCS works, it is very difficult for it to meet the boost set point due to the constant bleeding of pressure to the waste gate. See my build thread for the boost curve with basically your setup, a Nameless BPV, and Grimmspeed 3 port BCS, and a tune.

Not far at all! Let me know and I'll do my best to help out.

How far are you from Mississauga?

So I was doing some logging to make sure my engine is still running well after about 5k on the new tune. I noticed that I get some random misfire events here and there, sometimes during idle, deceleration, and rarely under load. After reading about how misfires are detected, I suspect it's a combination of older cam position sensors and the lightweight ACT flywheel. I haven't had a knock event in years, so I'm not too concerned... Should I be? The other thing I noticed is that my reduced boost tune maxes out at 21psi around 4000rpm. The higher boost tune maxes out at 23psi... should I stick with the former for engine longevity? It's way over 18psi so either way I think I'm playing with fire...

Looks good! I am (rightfully) terrified of working with sheet metal and heights, so it looks quite impressive to me. What is the blue membrane below the metal roofing?

Motul is a real PITA to find in Canada, I use it for my motorcycles though, but order it online for a small fortune.

Mobil1 is always almost twice the price of PP around here, so I change my oil every 3 months with cheaper oil for the same price. That being said, most everyone I know uses Mobil1... That being said, I have been using 0w20 in my Ascent, but it is thin as hell, so I will definitely switch to 5w30 after my current supply of the thin stuff runs out.

I probably will not get a reply before I go out and buy oil today, so my updated plan is to buy 5w40 for the upcoming summer months and 5w30 for the winter. There is a sale on Castrol EDGE and my usual Pennzoil Platinum, so I still have some ruminating to do...

Does anyone have opinions on using high mileage versus regular synthetic oil? I usually use Pennzoil Platinum but they have a sale on the high mileage version. My 2.5GT is pushing 120k miles...but I'm a bit hesitant to use something different.

As the homeowner you are allowed to do electrical, plumbing, etc, but you are still required to pull a permit. I am 100% sure of this in Ontario, other than for replacing lighting fixtures you are required to pull a permit. It is pretty easy to do so with the ESA, see the spreadsheet notification form here, https://esasafe.com/fees-and-forms/forms/ However, what they do not show you is the price which is proportional to the number of items you need inspected. For example, if you need 10 outlets inspected, the cost could be several hundred dollars. They used to include the prices in the spreadsheet, but I do not see them anymore... I doubt the municipalities building inspectors will require proof of ESA inspection to close the building permit, but I suggest you get the electrical inspected for liability and insurance reasons. I have been through this a few times, feel free to PM me and I can share my experiences.

I've done a few ESA permits before, basically you submit a form via email prior to starting the work. I've never done a panel or new electrical service, though, but the electrical inspector in my area has relatively nice to me. The main issue is the cost of the permit...

I added a liter of oil after my oil level light lit-up, it was quite a shock. I had driven 1500 miles over the past week and normally check my oil level every other week, did not accommodate for the mileage driven... I hope running it low on oil did not do any permanent damage, adding a liter brought the level up to the notch (full at operating temperature, I think), which means I was severely low. New OEM pitch stop goes in this weekend too!

I went to visit family over the past few days, put a solid additional 1000 miles on the odometer, mainly highway driving with much of it through highways which meander around and over the Appalachians in NY and PA. I got around 26 MPG, which was really surprising! A few observations, 1) Having the Maestro iDatalink (see image) connected to my head unit is really useful, EGTs hovered between 550-650C (1000-1200F) while cruising at highway speeds, but would easily increase to 650-730C (1200-1350F) if I did not downshift when on an incline up a mountain. My understanding is that I want to keep EGT under 800C (1470F) for a variety of reasons, this is my first turbo car and first tuned car, so I am trying to learn all the ins and outs! 2) I still have an occasional but pretty significant shudder when starting in 1st and also when engine breaking. Since the transmission mount was just replaced along with the pads, I am going to replace the pitch stop using an OEM once ASAP. I can get it from the dealer today and this is my DD, so I do not want to wait for aftermarket (although the Hard Race one looks really nice!). 3) The car was performing extremely well until about an hour from home. We stopped for a bathroom break and when crawling through the parking lot the car threw up two codes, misfires in cylinders 3 and 4. I didn't notice any issues so I just kept driving for a bit until there was a nice place to pull over in case I needed a tow. I reset the codes and then tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. When you reset the misfire codes P0303/P0304 does it reset the idle learn? For the next few hours I had issues with the car stalling while idling and poor throttle response at low RPM, otherwise fine. I am hoping I just need a throttle body cleaning and its nothing serious...just got the car in order!

A few years ago this point failed on my front subframe, drivers side. Luckily it happened in my driveway otherwise I would have had a very bad day. I had a mechanic replace the subframe, control arms, and a bunch of other stuff. They had a hard time with it, mainly because of the rusty bolts and other fasteners. If there is as much rust under there as mine had, either having a mechanic do it or getting access to a lift is a good idea, just for ease of access.

I have to admit, it took me about 20 minutes to figure out that, no, my 2.5GT really doesn't have an EGR system and this thread is about the NA Legacy. Glad you figured it out and I'm only slightly jealous that you get almost 10mpg more than me cruising at 75.

They also sell a "brake master cylinder stopper", that seems interesting, my mechanic friend says most Subarus have alot of flex in the brake pedal because of this.

I have not heard of them until now, but if they are decent quality I am definitely interested. My only concern is that if they are solid and not hydraulic, how much additional NVM will make it into the cabin. Does anyone have experience with these? I mainly use my car for around town and long trips with family, so its already a bit rough for them with the 12-13 OEM springs and KYB dampers...