motorbreath

Best bet is to call up a dealer and give them your VIN, they should be able to give you the correct part number. For example, for my 2010 the Subaru parts site is giving me two different parts numbers, both compatible with my year, 20401AJ03A and 20401AJ11A. Same thing happened with my fuel filter housing and front subframe.

Just out of curiosity, doesn't the IAM default to 1 after a flash and/or reset? Also, when you have both 2-byte and 4-byte versions of the same parameter, shouldn't pick one to reduce the amount of data being transmitted over the OBD2 connection?

My ACT HD clutch had a very light pedal for a few days, went back to normal after that.

Then its good I didn't try to replace it when I did my timing belt, my stock cat is rust-welded to the turbo exhaust outlet, the whole assembly is currently sitting at the bottom of my storage rack in the garage (replaced with newer turbo and Invidia high-flow cat a year later).

Yeah, makes sense, I think that I would have probably done the same if I had more experience. For me it was one more complication that could go wrong.

That's too bad about the guide pins, I guess I got lucky, my friend/mechanic was able to replace the clutch in about 4 hours. I am unclear as to why the cat would need to be removed to do the water pump, though. While I am no expert, I have spent many many many hours in that area of the engine bay. That being said, I was told by many people not to bother with the water pump since they are not known to fail (with Subarus). Hopefully I was not misled, it did take a long time to do.

Well, I get the return and reservoir hoses and o-ring next Thursday, so I'll let you know how is turns out!

I have not had this problem, but I am just wondering, are you sure that all of the air is out? Is it possible that one of the supply hoses is cracked and letting air in? Could there be an issue with your o-ring install? I am sure you got the air out initially, but more air could be getting in and I am about to replace my power steering hoses (and o-ring) because they are rock hard and likely starting to crack.

It might just be a dealer issue then, my dealer here in Waterloo recommends it regularly, but a few dealers my family deals with down south say that it does not need to be changed...ever.

I think it's prudent to get the CVT fluid flushed roughly every 60k. Its stupid-expensive at the dealer and, at least for me, quite difficult to do yourself, but after seeing the condition of the fluid that came out of my old Outback at 60k I highly doubt that it is a lifetime fluid.

Maybe you need a reboot?

I did the timing belt myself, just needed to pull the radiator fan assembly and coolant hoses, there is tons of room in there. I did it in one (long) night, but from the comfort of my garage. My friend/mechanic did the clutch, he pulled the transmission, definitely not something I would attempt on my own even with a garage and time on my hands.

I think you have to direct RomRaider to where you downloaded and decompressed the logger definitions. Also, if you are using a tuner, they should likely have custom definitions you can use.

That will be very convenient, I just wouldn't use it when you are writing a new version of the ROM, just in case.

It should be a standard USB-C cable,I use a 6'and lay my laptop on the passenger seat

I think that's definitely the best first step, I would also compress it and back it up. The compression is important because it will create a checksum so that every time you decompress the program will verify that the file wasn't corrupted. I suggest you do that with all ROMs, unless you are using a filesystem which implements this, which is unlikely. I am pretty sure that .zip encryption includes a checksum.

I'm not sure about running multiple JREs simultaneously, but the download issue must be a security setting that you can override.

This was very useful, I have an ACT HD clutch with a 13lb LWFW, explains some of the judder I get in first.

You have to uninstall the existing JRE and install the 32-bit version, https://www.romraider.com/index.php/RomRaider/GettingStarted See the link for the 32-bit version, I think it should just download without any issue from with the US.

I just went through an e-tune last year using open-source tuning. I don't know much about the tuning itself, but the process was not that bad, apart from needing to use my wife's Windows laptop. I did look at the changes that the tuner was making after each revised tune. They were pretty interesting and if I had a simple way to compare tunes, like diff'ing text files, it would have been really useful. One question I have for you, doesn't your wideband sensor also measure temperature? These are always an issue for me when at sustained WOT and highway cruising. In fact, I always keep my eye on EGT when on the highway, so I think it would be a useful measurement to avoid damaging your catalyst.

I guess my situation was different, I was getting a knock event at WOT in addition to the misfires, so new plugs and coils seemed prudent to safeguard the engine.

Best of luck, I'll be fighting with my rears before the end of the year!

Better safe than sorry, especially with Rock Auto's prices!

I had a pretty bad misfire issue with #4 when I first bought my 2 .5GT, exact same rust/delamination issue. After changing the spark plugs and the #4 coil pack, all was good. I did end up changing the other coil packs within a year because they looked to be in rough shape and I was getting a tune. One interesting thing I learned is that the ECM doesn't directly detect misfires, apparently it infers them from crank and cam position sensors. So if you get occasional misfire events, especially at idle or off throttle, it's considered normal.

With the bearing/hub shocker, do you think the bushings were absorbing some of the impact? I'm thinking for when I need to change a wheel bearing to rest the knuckle on some scrap wood so that the bushings don't soften the impact.