motorbreath

Is there a simple and safe way to lift the engine enough to get the clearance? I assume it would be a good time to replace the engine mounts when you do this, as well, mine are 10 years old...

OK, I think all of the adjustable ones sold on Rock Auto are SPC, I'll order a pair of them. Now I need to find a decent bushing removal/installation kit.

I think I'll take it to one of the local Subaru specialists for the alignment next time. I was in a hurry this time because the front was way out of alignment from the previous owner. The shop I took it to got the rear camber within spec, so maybe they are approaching it in the opposite way as you have experienced, adjust for camber the toe is what it is. I am going for stock height and alignment because this car is going to be used as a true GT car. If I could only get a taller 6th gear..anyway, if I get the adjustable front lateral link, won't I still have the issue with camber+toe being coupled to the same adjustment? Is the only way to decouple them to get the adjustable rear and front lateral links?

So I took my car in for an alignment now that the suspension is done, found out 1) the left rear lateral link is slightly bent (previous owner...) and 2) they are not able to get the rear toe angle within specs. They said not to worry about it, will just cause some premature tire wear, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I am going to order a replacement from Rockauto (Mevotech CMS801172) and noticed that there are adjustable front lateral links available (Mevotech CMS101324). The ones currently on the car are not adjustable...should I: 1) Only replace the bent rear lateral link and get it aligned again, 2) Replace both the bent lateral link and the front lateral links so that the toe can be adjusted. The adjustable links are quite expensive, but I would like to have my alignment perfectly dialed-in.

Thanks!

I never though of that, I'll use a hex socket on my torque wrench and the passthrough socket to keep it from spinning. That being said, I am relatively sure they are torqued >20lbf, I was using a hex wrench to keep the shaft from spinning and the passthrough socket/wrench to tighten. I'll double-check using the torque wrench tonight. I use a torque wrench religiously, before doing so I have broken ALOT of sh*t in my DIY car repair adventures. If a fastener can be broken, bolt can be sheared, I am the guy to do it! That being said, after taking a decent test drive yesterday, I am very happy with the 2013 3.6R suspension components on my 2010 2.5GT, significantly stiffer but not uncomfortable.

Ugh, I really had a bad day yesterday, went back to check the manual to see if I was going crazy or just made a mistake, you are right, 88.5 lbf it is. I also forgot to mention that I did not understand how to torque the nut in the center of the mount. I bought a set of passthrough sockets so I could tighten them without using an impact gun, but I do not have a passthrough torque wrench. I ended up just counting the number of exposed threads in the stock units that I pulled out and tightening until I had the same number for the new parts. Does that make sense?

Nevermind, I realized that I had the service manual from when I owned a 2010 Outback, the torque spec is 59 lbf, the thread I referenced was showing the service manual entry for the previous generation.

So I took care of the front and rear coils and dampers, used the 2013 3.6R setup, including new springs from the dealer. I did reuse the front and rear upper spring seats, getting the fronts together with the conical washer was not so bad. The only thing I am bit concerned about is the torque of the lower strut mount bolt. I have seen figures ranging from 59 to 89 to 118 lbf. In this thread the service manual seems to indicate 118 lbf, I just want to confirm before I torque it, I screwed this up royally in my old 2.5RS and do not want to make the same mistake again.

That's awesome, I just bought that used kit that IQ Performance was selling off Ebay, the one with custom headers, an EFR7163 turbo, and a custom FMIC. My plan is to get the Invidia catted downpipe, I already have the Q300 catback exhaust, install the FMIC and get an e-tune. I want to get some experience with the whole process before I try to install the custom header and turbo.

How does the vband work with the Invidia downpipe? Is there a coupler or did you remove the flange and weld for the vband?

I bought the kit and it is shipped. I am going to start a build thread over the weekend since I am halfway into it, at this point. IQ Performance gave me a very good price on everything and even sent pictures of how it was packed before they shipped it. I am looking forward to working out the details over the next few months and getting everything installed!

Installed a hitch and Invidia Q300 exhaust, needed extended exhaust hangers to keep exhaust from infrequent tapping on the hitch. If the new coil springs I ordered come in this week, I'll be replacing all of the coils and dampers this weekend. Then paint job!

I tried this and the inner diameter of the rear bump stop is just too small...I'll try to drill them out without causing much damage, otherwise I'll just use the currently installed ones. The Subaru dealers in my area do not seem to stock anything, its a 1 week wait unless something is back-ordered, then 2 weeks!

I have exchanged a few emails with them, I am going to buy it and (hopefully) install it after I get the car in better shape (suspension, brakes, body).

Weird question, I decided to go with the 2013/14 coils (OEM) with KYB mounts and dampers. I am waiting on the coils to come in, but I received the KYB parts and find that the bump stops clear the front damper rods, but the rear bump stops do not clear the rear damper rods. I tripled-checked the parts numbers, everything is correct, the only thing I can think to do is drill out the rear bump stops. Does this sound reasonable? Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to do, I just expected everything to go together with no weirdness like this.

Decisions, decisions, I'll sleep on it tonight, seems like the only way to get a twin scroll turbo on a gen5 without have something else made custom. I do not have the know-how for that, and to have someone else do it would be significantly more $$$!

Seems like a no brainer except for two things: (i) I want a cat and (ii) shipping from Russia without damage seems unlikely.

I saw that, I don't quite understand if it's a twin scroll turbo, but it's very interesting.

Just out of curiosity, is an EGR delete really worth it with port injected engines? My understanding is the main issue with it is with direct injected engines where the valves are not being constantly cleaned by fuel (like modern diesels and FAs).

Could you elaborate on this, which 2 pot calipers? Would they fit with the stock wheels? Brake bias issues or changes? Thanks.

Cool cool, I am going to follow-up on your build thread!

Have any of you seen these Russian exhaust manifolds on Ebay? I do not want to include the link, but search "Subaru Legacy 2.5GT equal-length exhaust headers". They look like they are for a dual scroll setup, but there is not much info regarding the outlet flange.

So I have changed my mind regarding the coilovers, I do not want it any lower than it currently is and I am also worried about the comfort and longevity of the pillow ball mounts. Seems like 2013/14 springs and dampers are the way to go for a modest increase in performance. My only question should I use the 2010-12 strut mounts? Does the 2013/14 strut mount fit? It seems to have a different part number. I'll pickup 2013/14 springs from the Subaru dealer, then the Whiteline front+rear swaybar kit, although the front installation looks like a real pain.

I am looking into updating the suspension on my 2010 GT soon too, looking at Silvers Neomax coilovers, Whiteline swaybars front and rear, and whatever replacement bushings I can find. I too am looking for another set of GT wheels!