motorbreath

So I got back to this after sidelining it because of the filter housing issue. I have the correct filter housing now, but still cannot get the plastic bracket ( 42055SC000) to clip into place over the fuel pump. I dremel'd the hell out of it, but am not comfortable removing any more material. The only remaining option I have is to either cut the nipple off of the pump, or dremel the bottom of it. I am not keen on either of these, I even checked DW's technical datasheet to confirm that the pump is within the dimensions it should be. At this point I have new filter housing and bracket from the dealer and still has significant fitment issues. Frustrating! The only remaining thing I can do is dremel the notches in the plastic bracket so that they engage earlier, but that seems like playing with fire.

I'll definitely take a look at my rear differential bushings, that would be great if that is the issue since the inserts and pretty cheap and ?easy? to install!

I just wanted to say, I spend a decent amount of time on other forums for my other cars and motorcycles, along with a few years on a travel travel forum. There is a *huge* difference in the maturity, knowledge, and overall helpfulness of those I have interacted with on this site. Most other sites are full of people who don't know what they don't know and are absolutely thrilled to prove that to you. I haven't been able to make the time to work on my 5th gen much over the past few years, mainly because I am a dangerous combination of lazy and overly ambitious with respect to my mechanical skills. However, every time I have an issue I can almost always find a 5+ page post with responses to solve my issue. Otherwise someone knowledgeable always chimes in and sticks around long enough to see me through the issue. Pat on the back to all of you!

That makes sense, it just seems like it is slipping and suddenly grabs, which causes quite a starting shock. I'll be easy with it for the next few weeks, I do not drive it much in the winter anyway, and I'll report back once the damper is deleted and then again after the transmission mount is replaced. I was hoping someone else had experienced something like this, its always nerve-wracking to be the first...

So I have had the union for this delete since last year, but have not had time to get on top of this and replacement of the transmission mount, which is warranted given the age of the car. I definitely have the vague and variable engagement point issue with my relatively new ACT clutch/flywheel. However, there is a bigger issue, when I am accelerating at WOT frequently there is a significant driveline shock shortly after reengaging the clutch. It is literally a shock, sounds a feels like a pop, so obviously I have held off on WOT hard shifts until I figure this out. I am no expert driver by any means, but I have years of experience driving MTs, including this car before the new clutch, turbo, and tune. I do not think this is driver error and only seems to happen in 3rd gear upwards with hard shifts. Could this be a clutch damper-related issue?

I bought an aftermarket head unit that supports up to three cameras, including one tied the reverse gear. I have not gotten around to installing a camera though, mainly bought the head unit for Android Auto and gauges.

I run Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 with Wix filters with my 2022 Ascent, change my oil and filter every 4 months or 5000km. I did the same with my previous Outback, but it was a 2010 so I used 5w30, so far so good. I also make sure to get a good highway run on each of my cars every week, especially in the winter, since we do alot of short trips during the week. I suspect that changing the oil regularly is more important than the brand, but I am hesitant to run a more viscous oil for newer engines...I assume all of the oil galleries and other passages are designed for 0w20, using a more viscous oil could (?should? reduce recirculation rate of oil throughout the engine since, to my knowledge, the pump is rotating at the same rate regardless of what oil you pour in. My two cents, sticking with 0w20 in my Ascent!

I'll take a look at mind this weekend, but don't remember any corrosion in that area when I replaced the rear suspension last year.

This kind of thing does not randomly happen, likely the last person to work on the car used an impact gun to start the lug nuts. I always start them by hand, then switch to the impact gun. You'll need to have the stud replaced and use a new lug nut, but I would go back to the last mechanic that worked on the car for them to fix their mistake.

If you search this part number 22630AA140 at parts.subaru.com there is a useful drawing of the "water pipe assembly" where the sensor is definitely at one of the highest points in the coolant system.

I had an issue a few years ago when I did not properly bleed the air out of my coolant system. The fans didn't engage even though the engine was getting very hot. After getting all of the air out they started working again, quite a stressful experience. I think there is a temperate sensor in the return line to the radiator, which at the top of the engine. I didn't have access to the coolant temperature at the time to confirm any of this, just my observations at the time. I always use a coolant bleeding kit since that experience... Anyway, in your case maybe there is an issue with this temperature sensor? A long shot, but something to check.

Glad to hear it you finally worked this out, my question for you is whether or not I should order the hub shocker for when I need to replace mine. Seems like a relatively expensive tool if it does not always work, saving the $150 would take a bit of the sting out of removing the spindles to get the bearings out...

Oh my, just realizing that I'm well over 100k on the stock rear wheel bearings...I was really hoping that the "hub shocker" would be the end-all be-all for this job once my ticket is punched. Based on your experience, I will start preparing myself mentally for when mine start to fail.

I have a 2010 build date, there was only one gasket when I did this.

I only inspected the gasket around the filter housing and the fuel pump outlet. The former seemed to be in good shape, but I used some o-ring lubricant on it, Super Lube, before reinstalling. The fuel pump ?gasket? was definitely not as elastic as I expected, but it definitely compressed back into the housing. I did not use lubricant on it because the gasoline would likely dissolve it and might cause during issues.

I just did the filter housing and clip that holds the fuel pump in. Everything else seemed to be in good shape when I did this.

I got the wrong filter assembly the first time too, didn't realize it until I had the original one of the tank!

I really didn't know how to check the condition of my motor mounts, so thanks for this info. I'll get under the car next weekend and take a look. On Friday I was in 4th gear WOT and lost power with the dash flashing. Thought it was a misfire, but the only code that came up was, P0108 - MAP Pressure Circuit High Input My understanding is that I should check for leaks in the intake before replacing the MAP sensor, or that I overboosted.

That stinks, I bought these about 1.5 years ago and they came with the solid bushings.

I got replacements from Rock Auto, Denso 5502700, but I did not try to program them myself, the cost of the tools was almost 10x the cost of the mechanic doing it.

I can ship within Canada and to the USA, I'm located in the GTA and work in KW for anyone who is local and would like to pick-up. All items are OBO, but I they are literally new and unused so be reasonable AVAILABLE ITEMS 75CAD/50US, Tactrix 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid 150CAD/100USD, DeatschWerks DW200 series in-tank fuel pump (not compatible with 5th gen!) 200CAD/150USD, (9-301S-1005) DeatschWerks DW300 series, 340lph in-tank fuel pump (not compatible with 5th gen!) SOLD ITEMS (1050.48.11.WRX) Injector Dynamics ID1050X Injectors - Subaru WRX, STi, FXT, LGT & OBXT (30-0310) AEM Electronics UEGO X-Series In-Line Wideband Controller

Same for me, the ones in my 2010 died last year.

I replaced my springs with 3.6R versions, which are a bit stiffer from what I read. I still had to add a 1" spacer for the rears to level things out.

So after my self-imposed tuning fiasco, ShinjiTuned provided me with a revised "low boost" mapping which keeps pressures closer to 18psi. I still need to install the transmission mount, which will hopefully solve/reduce some shuddering at lower speed, along with the clutch damper delete. After a decent amount of work on this car over the summer, I am super-happy with its performance with the stock turbo, 3-port BCS, and turbo-back exhaust. There is a ton more torque in the mid-range, which is really where I mainly need it. I am doubting whether or not I want to go the hybrid turbo route at all, even though I already have the injectors, fuel pump and wideband sensor. I think I might just sell these unused parts to recover ?most? of the money I spent, but that into installing ARP studs head studs so I can run the stock block at the higher pressures (20-22psi) that my original tune was giving me.

Ok, I kind of feel like an idiot, I should have known that the MRP flatlined like that is a measurement or protocol issue, not the actual value. I've found a few RomRaider forum posts about this being related to Subaru's SSM protocol for interacting with the ECU. Either way, I was not understanding what was going on during the tuning process and there is waaaay too much boost mid-range for stock engine. I'll save this map for when I eventually get the engine built and see about getting a revised tune limiting boost to 18psi.