Febreze Mee

The DRLs are your lowbeams. They reside behind your projector housing. Your DRLs operate at a reduced output when compared to you turn your lowbeams (light used when night-driving) on. I haven't a clue how much but, it's noticeable. Your highbeam is a completely separate bulb located in the reflector housing. In all, you have three bulbs in your headlight housing: 1) DRLs = lowbeams bulbs (at reduced power) 2) Highbeams/"brights" 3) Turn signals/"blinkers"

And here are the mirrors...too excited for these!

Got Madrigs FG extended spoiler and my JDM power folding mirrors paint matched. Here are some quick pics of the spoiler on the car.

Went to pick up the JDM power folding mirrors and Madrig FG Spoiler from Collision Specialist today. Cody and his guys did a fantastic job on the paint!

I'd have said that's telegraph tech at first sight!

Very nice! Welcome to the forum. Post up an introduction and tell us more about your Spec B.

As far as fixing the ghostwalking with weight in the back, I'm not sure. I've never had an issue with ghostwalking. I've read that it could be your rear trailing arm bushings, give those a look-over. As for aligning with weight in the car - I've read ppl putting between 100-200lbs in for alignment purposes.

I'm assuming you're looking for a factory alignment? Do you have stock Outback wheels/stock Outback tires? If so, shoot for an "Outback" alignment. Factory Alignment Specs: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-alignment-specs-23815.html Those are for the Legacy. I cannot imagine the statistically significant difference in alignment between the Legacy and the Outback, from factory. As you probably know, here are plus and minus values for each measurement. You could request either or, and you'll more than likely be within factory spec. Of course, some one with a FSM could probably confirm the values between the two cars.

I'm assuming you have the factory grill, and you want to get rid of the chrome. If not, check this out: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/color-code-for-exterior-trim-grill-c-pillars-mirrors-hatch-trim.303961/

420/mh-53/wa

S/O to Madrig for making this well-packaged spoiler. The quality is top notch! Excited to get it paint-matched and mounted. Here are some reference pictures of Kalien32's spoiler mounted. Lastly, my STi steering rack bushings came in.

I bought mine a couple weeks ago from this seller: https://www.ebay.com/i/293188090535?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D5009fb2ee6674b6a85babac0887071bc%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D13%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D293179942531%26itm%3D293188090535%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefault $400. 2018 (probably low miles). A bent tie rod or two. This is the cheapest I could find.

Thanks a lot! I couldn't decide between blue or yellow. They're OEM housings. I just baked 'em. Popped 'em open. Didn't sand a thing. Used Krylon yellow stained glass paint for the high beam reflector housing, and VHT satin black for everything else. I removed the amber reflector. After, I drilled and mounted my halo rings and LED strips. Used this for paint guide: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41698021&postcount=3323 Took a full Saturday. I was on the fence at first. Everyone else LOVED them, and they ended up growing on me, so they stayed. I'd say go for it! They completely transform the front end.

I did do my own headlights

This is awesome John! Enjoying every bit of this thread. Keep it coming!

Thanks. Alive and well today, with a more evolved version of the old wagon. Glad I had some positive influence on your decision. Looking forward to seeing it, and hearing your thoughts when it's complete. Cheers!

2015 STi rack came in... The catch: it came in to my address in TX. Should be on it's way up sooner than later. I will continue to update you/y'all. I will be throwing Whiteline rack bushings in, and the roll center/bump steer kit on it.

You're springs will sag a little after time passes, yes, but I wouldn't pass it off as being a quality of OEM. Aftermarket springs will sag after time and mileage as well. I'm running stock end links myself. No RSB brackets. My end links are probably the weak link of my suspension as it sits. However, as I approach 9K miles on coilovers and a Whiteline RSB (and who knows how many before then), I haven't experienced any clunk. They aren't a priority for me since the stock ones perform their job, and effects of aftermarket or adjustable ones would be unfelt. When they do go I'll probably grab some from Moog.

Well that supersedes any timeline there was considering the front page said this back in June of 2016 and it's *looks at watch* not June of 2016 anymore 2021 > God knows when. I might have to download this forum soon.

Here is my 3.0R lowered on OEM LGT wagon struts and springs. The only other thing it had done to it was LGT bump stops, not even the upper control arms. The 3.0R does sit about 200-250lbs heavier than it's OBXT/LGT counterparts. It's like have two kids or one heavy adult sitting in the car full-time. That's just something else to keep in mind. This car only sat like this for four day, before I rolled it into a tree. Whoops. I never made it to an alignment shop. The car had a noticeable amount of negative rear camber. It sagged noticeably in the rear. These were the only photos I got of the car, in this state. Use this as a visual reference and understand that my car is slightly heavier than yours (shouldn't make a significant difference). Gas station photos: lowered Others: factory height

Essentially, what you've done is lower the spring perch all around, but retained factory Outback height in the front (assuming you used Outback-specific springs in LGT struts up front), and raised the rear by a half in or so. If anything your car might be 1/4 to 1/2 lower from factory Outback height all around. Everything else you've done has given your springs a little more pre-load and allowed you more suspension travel and more potential to yield a near perfect alignment, which is great! After installing the RSB you should notice an improvement in handling if you haven't already. Your rear end will feel more connected to the rest of the car instead of like it's chasing you. You're wheels (I like them) are only a half inch wider than stock, which are cars will easily tolerate, and your tires are stock dimensions. You said there "isn't any rubbing" as if there's a possibility, and there is absolutely none. I am from TX and saw an OBXT or LGT maybe once every couple of months, so I understand the scarcity. You made a wise decision to keep the car. They really are great, functional, and can be lots of fun. I think you'll find satisfaction with the drop. It should be noted that one difference between LGT struts is the height of the spring perch. What I mean by this is the difference in height between the lower mounting point of the strut and the "cup" the spring seats in is significant. I'm sure you could find threads with actual measurements, but pics show about 1.5in difference. Unsure of if they were valved differently, not likely. In addition to the strut difference, is a difference in springs as well. The Outback has longer springs than the LGT by about one coil, allowing for more travel. Based on pictures, another 1/2in to 1in. Unsure on factory spring rates. $5-600 should be fine for what you want to do, but I would still recommend getting Whiteline's Camber Correction Kit (KCA399) and throwing it in your LGT UCAs while you have them out of the car. I'm almost sure your camber will be out of spec after you do this job. Help yourself out. Toe is what is going to eat your tires. Not much adjustment from factory with regards to toe. I can only recommend the KTA124 kit that Norutah has.

Say no more! https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mi-wagon-hatch-garnish-jdm-282515.html?t=282515

Look at that shiny thang! Congrats on your re-purchase.

I second this!

LGT spring seats and top hats are fine, saggy butt spacers for the rear are recommended. You'll also want LGT bump stops in addition to the LGT UCA to get the most out of your suspension, allow it more travel. The LGT strut assemblies will already drop you close to 2inches. You want to go lower than that? What are you trying to achieve with this car? Do you want it slammed? Do you want comfort? Are you looking for certain handling characteristics? What is your budget? When you lower a car past what the suspension was engineered to handle from factory, you've already gone past "wont require me getting too crazy..." You might be able to get your alignment within spec, but your left side matching your right side is more important. Take whatever money you were putting towards a Whiteline RSB and invest into the Whiteline Camber Correction Kit (KCA399) and the Whiteline Roll Centre/Bump Steer Correction Kit (KCA313). If you have the time and money, I'd recommend doing the LGT suspension swap the right way: remove body/chassis spacers, swap out all Outback-specific stuff for Legacy-specific stuff, get adjustable toe arms (might as well grab adjustable UCAs too). Otherwise: get a decent set of Outback-specific coilovers, adjustable control arms, and bump steer correction.