dwmccauley01

Wish I knew the answer to this. My car has been doing the same thing for awhile now. I did notice my boost gauge only read 11 psi while the MAP sensor reads 13 psi. Have you checked for any exhaust leaks? I know my uppipe has a terrible leak at the connection to the headers causing a bit of boost error across the rpms. I'm thinking it has to be something with boost control. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but in open loop the ecu doesn't apply a substantial amount of afr correction. Instead, fuel is added given the load and rpm range. Less boost means the expected air is not present causing extremely rich conditions. The ecu cutting boost for whatever reason could be a number of things, but, some leak or maybe the MAP sensor is most likely the culprit. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Looking to the center cubby with the gas mileage display. Broke mine awhile ago trying to set up gauges. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/09-lifted-spec-b-details-268291.html?t=268291 Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

The LGT is longer so it most likely would not without adaptation Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

PM'd about turbo and various parts Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

An update, I swapped out the uppipe with the OEM 2008 catless to make everyone happy and hopefully make everything seal better. I have found, this whole thing may just have been caused by the cheap boost gauge I need to swap out. The problem, or at least what I perceived as the problem was my boost gauge only read 10 psi when I was supposed to be reaching the 13.5. However, after swapping everything out and various attempts to seal the exhaust, I took a closer look at my logs. While there is a delay in spool most likely caused by remaining exhaust leaks, it does appear to get fairly close to the target. So this whole thread may have been avoided if I took a closer look at the data instead of the sketchy boost gauge. Only problem is the slow spool.romraiderlog_20200101_130048.csv

Just though I would share some stuff I found. Oil (with filter) and coolant banjo bolt gasket: 1/2" diameter. P/N at oreilys was H9461 for a pack of 10 for $6 Or P/N H9452-2 pack of 2 for $ 1.79 (there are slightly thicker) Oil banjo bolt on turbo: Any 25/64" copper gasket P/N at oreilys 66272 for pack of 2 at $3.49 Oil Return line is 5/8", a truck and machinery place should have oil & fuel line that size $5 a foot. To make installing turbo a little easier you could cut a length the same as th old line and use oil to get it into place. I left the line on side going into the crank case for a bit to help stretch it out. The oil return gasket should be same as any turbo with a similar outlet, I used a beaded steel one from mahle, P/N B32315 at $5 Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Yeah I had it on backwards the first time I got the turbo mounted. I took it off and flipped it around and tried it again. Its still being a pita. The problem may be I cut the hose too short and it didn't have enough line to seat itself on both sides. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

A sort of related question, are there any secret techniques to get this oil return line on? Ive already swapped the turbo once, but this hose is just not stiff enough to bend all over the place and too stiff to go where I want it to. Put the turbo in place twice now and I check up on the oil hose and its all bent up the wrong way. This is with both connections oiled. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Interesting, didn't really think about that. Depending on the needs they just switch out the compressor and exhaust. In that case, I should be good with quite a few different oil return gaskets. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Haha im supposed to be sending him one of my turbos for an upgrade. I think he has been busy lately but ill see what he says Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Also the searcg you sent comes up with alot of engine gasket sets, did the car have a similar turbo to ours? Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

From the look of it, most journal bearing turbos have the similar oil return lines. Im not sure if they're all the same size but they definitely look similar. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

So another advancement, maybe. I was reading around other car forums about leaking oil return gaskets. I found this thread: https://www.srtforums.com/threads/turbo-oil-return-line-gasket-alternative.488317/ In theroy, if I could get a gasket of the same size with the silicone inner lining, it SHOULD seal better than the stock (maybe) I will go ahead and try it and let everyone know how it goes. Found this one at O'reilys, ill have to see it in person to determine how plausible it is. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/mahle-original-4186/fuel---emissions-16775/turbo---supercharger-16802/turbocharger-oil-line-gasket-14183/1b9fac983f6c/mahle-original-turbocharger-oil-line-gasket/b32315/4425661?pos=1 If it doesn't work out, im replacing the turbo in a couple months anyway. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Yeah man, from this trip I found there is quite a bit of large machinery places close by I had no idea about Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Alright so I couldnt find any oil hose even close to the required diameter at the local auto parts stores. However, there was a shop that deals with machinery and semitrucks which had 5/8" fuel & oil hose. I was concerned at first because regular fuel hose swells when exposed to hydrocarbons, but, this hose seems to be just a large fuel hose made of some sort of oil resistant silicone. I have my turbo out for the second time and sure enough it dumping oil from both the gasket area and the worn out hose. As far as replacement, I picked up a felpro gasket kit specific for the vf40 and the gasket(s) intended for the oil return are 2 paper material cutouts with the same shape as the original. Would these gaskets still work or should i just wait the week or 2 for new ones? I do have another used one from a different turbo that may work also Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Its amazing what an extra 2-3 google searches can do lol Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

If the battery is leaking you should replace it anyway. I think the TPS is integrated into the throttle body so you would have to replace the whole throttle body. I would log the related parameters before jumping to that though. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

From reading your previous thread, I assume you got the compression issue dealt with? The website for bluedriver says you can log short and long term fuel trims. You will want to log those at idle and when it stalls. If you log air fuel ratio also you could see what's going on there when you stall. I haven't heard of cars stalling from a battery, but if you want to get it tested you could take it to a local auto parts store. I used to have a kia with a bad tps which would stall all the time. You could also log the accelerator and throttle body opening angle at the time of the stall to see if something isn't working the way it should. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Nevermind found that too, its about 5/8". Looks like most auto parts stores have oil cooler hose that should work. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Haha nevermind just did some research and found my answer, its just oil resistant hose. Does anybody know the diameter? Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

An aftermarket intake can cause too lean of a condition but not to the point of stalling the car (in most cases) it usually causes problems in the upper ranges of rpm where the car is taking in a lot more air than usual. Do you know if the previous owner got the car tuned for the intake? It depends on the software you are using for data logging but it should just be a parameter as AF learning and correction to log. I know if you have btssm its easy to pull up but im not sure what program you are using. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Have you checked the Air/Fuel learning and correction? If you are leaning out or going way too rich it could cause a problem Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

So around the turbo oil return line is leaking and im pretty sure its the gasket between the turbo and the metal piece. While I'm in there, I want to replace the rubber line itself. The line looks like just a fuel or heater hose so I was trying to see if it was from some special polymer or I could pick some up from my work of the same diameter. Thanks, Dillan M Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

When my oil line on the turbo was leaking it smelled like plastic. If that rubber coolant return hose with the metal protection on has slid off the hard line a bit it will leak quite a bit also. Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk