dwmccauley01

Lol why post on a forum if you don't want advice. I can guarantee the dodge power wagon transmission will not be a direct swap. You'll need to fabricate most connections and you will need to swap the entire drivertain because they don't work similarly at all. You are likely looking at several thousand dollars. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thats what my intake sounds like Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D121773&share_tid=121773&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&link_source=app Its not about restriction and more about air density. Read post #18. The stock intake is pulling all its air from the grill which is the coldest it can be. Any other "CAI" will just be pulling in hot air from the engine. Don't get me wrong, I've been running one for awhile now with a heat shield and the stock snorkel, but, in the end they are just noise makers and do not increase power by any significant amount. I just like turbo noises Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Yes, oil on exhaust will cause white smoke. Drive it more and see if it goes away. Also check and make sure oil is not leaking from the banjo bolt. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Second one is primarily cat efficiency so if you exit before it won't do that much. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Our drivetrain isn't like a fwd car with a 4 wheel drive option. You may be able to make some serious modification to make it possible but it would likely be time consuming and very expensive Automatic or manual? There are dhift kits for the automatics which greatly increase durability and performance. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I dont think the throttle body on our cars is a real restrictor with your set up. I would also get a vf52 or 16g turbo before the fmic. Also make sure you get a tune after those mods, these cars are very picky. Also you said you are on a tight budget so why go for a extra stuff like a spoiler and detachable steering wheel? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

He has done it again! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Only way to get a relative feel for how the turbo is doing is to drop the downpipe and check shaft play. Also look for how much oil is in the intercooler. I would say if you have the time and money to redo the intake, replace the turbo/gaskets, change oil every 3k-5k miles, do spark plugs and check compression, and become familiar with logging software the car should be fairly reliable. Also note the turbo models don't commonly have head gasket issues like the NA models Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Try to see, if possible, at what point in the powerband you're getting the most feedback correction. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

If you can data log you should post up some data. It could be beneficial to see how your boost, rpm, and AF sensor #1 correlates with the timing pulled and cylinder roughness. Plugs and testing of the blocks health is always good to do but i dont think an issue with your air fuel mixture has ruled out. Only getting 8lbs of boost at WOT can cause enough of a rich condition for detonation. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Well I'm not sure how your DAM is 0 but you shouldn't have roughness on any cylinders so I would check spark plugs and possibly the coil Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I was referring to a turbo in which the turbine shaft has snapped as a failed turbo. Yes, a failing turbo will still make boost but if the shaft snaps it is not possible. My old turbo had a seized wastegate actuator causing the car to severely underboost under load but the shaft never went out. Either way a turbo which has failed or is failing will make noises when revved at park or while building boost. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

A failing turbo will sound like metal on metal or a you would have no boost. It sound like the car is pulling timing for whatever reason when the turbo is spooling up. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I usually goto Gillman Subaru North or any online subaru parts dealer and they have all the stock part numbers on associated diagrams. From there you can compare part numbers to see if they are the same part or not. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

If you hear it only around when peak boost kicks in it sounds like it could still be an exhaust leak pre turbo somewhere. That uppipe to header can be a pain to get sealed. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

That makse alot more sense. I thought those may be the nicest knockoffs I've seen haha. So it sounds like you got the q300s for the weekend car and the less loud knockoffs for the daily. How does the sound compare to deletes? Also, what downpipes are you running? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thats a way to reuse old pipes for sure! How much did you get the knockoff mufflers for? I like the quad tips. I also notice the mufflers have flanges on the back. Did the shop weld matching flanges or did you go without them? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I would love some prodrives but I haven't seen them around in a bit so I was looking to put together something similar. I am a fan of how these cars sound without mufflers. I took off the mufflers and drove a bit. The cats and turbo do a pretty good job of keeping the car from being crazy loud but you still get some of that nice rumble. As of now, I have all the stock exhaust components. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Hello, Looks like my muffler flange has deteriorated to the point of no longer sealing so I think its time to look for something that sounds better. I am also looking to try my hand at some exhaust welding. I figured now would be a good time to learn seeing as worse case, I can cut it off and get a shop to put something in. My question to you all is what kind of custom muffler setups have you done or have had done? Just pipes or aftermarket weld-in mufflers, which do you think sound better? Trying to focus on the mufflers for now but im intrested to see if you guys are running custom catbacks also. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

You can't just buy a rebuild kit and slap it together because an out of balance rotating assembly will just rattle itself to death. Its best to just send the failed turbo to someone like jmp and see if they can replace the internals. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I would start with a smoke or pressure test to make sure nothing is leaking too bad. How did you determine the bpv was stuck closed? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

If youre getting no boost, your turbine shaft likely snapped. The rattling is probably one of the turbines bouncing around in its housing. When these cars blow turbos they like to throw metal into the oil and kill the bearings. I wouldn't run the car until your sure the turno has not blown. Try dropping the downpipe to check for shaftplay and/or oil. It is possible that your wastegate got seized and the rattling is it flapping around but once again you would need to drop the downpipe to verify. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Yeah you have to keep the curcuit connected. I took some needle nose pliers and removed the metal connector and stuck it into the socket. The sensor is pretty much just that piece of metal Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Did the car start to run rough after the MBC install? I think your biggest issue is the line disconnected under the intake. The line looks too small to be the purge controll solenoid so it probably either came off of the black T or of the small black purge solenoid (not the sensor). Also a MBC is not preferable for our veichles because you completely eliminate the ecu's ability to compensate for underboost and overboost conditions. You can do a hybrid setup with the stock boost controller, but why not just get a 3 port if you're getting it tuned? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk