dwmccauley01

The hose that came off with the white nipple thing is to your manifold pressure sensor. Did you say you got it tuned? I have no idea how they would tune your car with that sensor disconnected because all of you boost tables are based off of that sensor. Not sure why the Manual boost controller instead of a 3 port but I assume the car is tuned for the MBC? The line not connected goes to your purge solenoid which controls vaccum in the fueling system so that would make it run real rough. Its one of the sensors bolted on the bracket by the turbo inlet. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thats the pcv leak detection sensor. It basically connects the turbo inlet to the pcv system and triggers a cel if sensor comes disconnected somehow. If you look in the connector, you can see its literally just a metal piece that completes the curcuit. Most aftermarket inlets don't hook up to that sensor and it is not that useful so the easiest thing to do if you upgrade the inlet is to just stuff it somewhere under the intake. Its not something to worry about at all as long as your inlet is hooked up properly. I pulled out the male metal peice and electrical taped the connector to get it out of the way. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/logging-wideband-through-egt-input-280648.html I did the same thing with the AFR guage awhile back. The two common ways to route it into the ecu is through the rear O2 or TGV. You can do it through the MAF but you would have to transition to speed density. I went with the rear O2. I just had to disable the rear O2 learning and splice the signal from the guage to the blue wire of the rear O2 loom. The hardest part is to get the raw voltage value to produce and accurate reading of the current AFR while logging. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I had the TB connection leak oil around there also. It actually caused the coolant hose below to swell and leak all over the top of the block. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I dont think the stage 1 deletes the rear 02 bc its meant to be run on a stock downpipe. The rear o2 can easily be disabled through romraider by changing the definitions file to include the parameter. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I got it hooked up and set up the parameters for logging and it works well. The main issue I've run into is getting the voltage to AFR equation to accurately produce the current ratio. It shouldn't be too hard to fix since the AFR and voltage relationship is linear, I just haven't taken the time out to finish it. I think mounting a camera to view the AFR on the gauge and RPM would be one of the easier solutions unless you have an analog output on your gauge. I did get a trouble code for the downstream sensor being too rich for obvious reasons. I also havent gotten the parameters set up for btssm but I haven't looked into it too much. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Still have the injectors and fuel rail if anyone wants them Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I think this is the exact one I have: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253968154544 Someone made alot of them and they are sold all over the place pretty cheap but they should work with all the logging software Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

You can put the car in test mode if ur car has it and feel if it clicks open and close. If all looks good with the boost control system, try to pressurize the intake to see if you're leaking anywhere. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Check the t going from the compressor to the wastegate and also if your boost control solenoid is stuck closed. I believe the wastegate is set to open at around 8psi so if you BCS isn't opening that's all you will get Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Oh yeah most of the logging software uses vagcom. If you want to use your phone you will also need a USB to USB c or whatever your phone uses Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

What year is the car? It may be a good time to get a cheap vagcom cable or get the btssm app. Your Bluetooth adapter may be able to connect to the app. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

About the 0-60 time, the 5.3 is for the manual. The automatics are heavier and have a bit more drive train loss. When my car was stock, I did get it to 0-60 in 5.6 seconds however, some sites and on this forum people say its closer to mid 6's. However, either way you are right! GT sedans and wagons are some of best sleepers out there in my opinion. There's a reason why subaru is still putting the ej257(very similar to the GT's ej255) in the new STIs. Flat engines allow for horizontal momentum to cancel out vibrations. Paired with DOHC, AWD, and a turbo and you've got a speedy family sedan. I like this video of a heavily modified Legacy GT keeping up with a GTR. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I believe Dave at Cryotune Performance tunes subarus with aftermarket turbos often. The Tuning Alliance is another great option. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Got my custom VF40 for JMP back in January and am getting tuned by Cryotune. Car pulls hard all the way to redline. Even though I sent him a cheap Chinese CHRA on accident, he was still able to get through all the thread lock and upgrade the internals. JMP is the man. The turbo was very well done and his attention to detail through the process is unparalleled. Edit: Realized this thread was for the VF52. Either way I highly recommend JMP. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I think where you're at you could possibly get to 400 torque if you went to E85 but I haven't looked that much into it. As far as those numbers, you are going to be at the "safe limit" for the block. I would agree that if you're going for numbers and acceleration, other cars would get you there alot easier. Subarus generally aren't the best straight-line cars. I usually enjoy mine the most when I'm whipping it around backroads. Not quite a miata or wrx hatchback, but I do enjoy how these cars handle. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I would agree that nothing looks really out of the ordinary except maybe the knock correction but its not that bad. is the car tuned for the EBCS? and what are your boost targets? From what I read, P0244's condition is based on the boost error from the manifold pressure sensor. If it were stuck open or leaking, you would be over boosting quite a bit. It's possible the code came from a random event and the car saved it so I would try resetting it and see if it comes back.

I believe that's the boost solenoid. I'm not sure the logic behind the code but usually solenoids will throw codes if they are sticking or not operating properly. I don't think an exhaust leak would cause that code. If anything you could get a bank too rich because the turbo would not spool up but even with sizable leaks I could get pretty close to the target boost. I would check the wastegate lines and if they look fine put the car in test mode to see if its actuating properly. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Tried a similar sealant and grimspeeds 2x thickness gasket. Laying flat, the flanges had too large of a gap to seal properly Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Sanding all the flanges made my uppipe seal though it just took far too much time. If you have a belt sander that would be ideal Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Yeah it sounded like a ticking anytime the car was trying to go into boost. After I did this I used some gaskets I had laying around and they of course leaked alot. But yeah when the pre-turbo leaks it a definitley a sort of ticking sounds. I also knew because when I accelerated I could smell exhaust pretty bad but that turned out to be my downpipe which I have yet to fix. The easiest way to find leaks is to get a shopvac to blow into one side of your exhaust and plug the other side with some old rags. Once you can tell its putting pressure on your exhaust you can go around with a spray bottle filled with soapy water and you'll see bubbles on the joints that are leaking Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

The fuel pump should only need to prime once so it sounds like you may have a leak somewhere. If its not visible form the engine bay it could be an injector seal or something. Does the engine bay smell like gas? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Vf52 should be a direct replacement, I think the only thing that doesn't fit directly is the heatsheild but it is not really necessary Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

+1 for jmp, he knows his stuff. I believe all of the VF turbos he rebuilds have modified internals to eliminate the oiling issues with our cars. If you get his custom billet wheel you can expect results similar to 16G or vf52 with a quicker spool than stock. I accidentally sent him cheap Chinese rebuilt vf40 and he was still able to work his magic. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Also check if wastegate is actuating properly. You should be able to pull it towards the firewall with some force to open it Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk